Garda route: what to see on the Italian lake? Lake Garda Italy Garda Italy.
Marvelous beautiful lake Garda, located in northern Italy, is a favorite holiday destination for tourists from all over Europe. South part The lake, whose area is 370 sq km, lies in the Padan Plain, the northern one adjacent to the Alps. There are many places on Lake Garda that deserve attention - these are both islands and resort towns, And amusement parks. But it is impossible to cover everything in one article; we have selected the 5 most interesting ones.
Bardolino
Situated on the eastern shore of the lake, tourist resort Bardolino is famous for its excellent wines, as well as unique architectural monuments. The favorable climate and fertile lands of this town are ideal for growing the best grape varieties, from which local winemakers produce excellent wines.
For tourists there is a special " Wine route“- during the excursion they have the opportunity not only to get acquainted with the history of Bardolin wines and the technology of their production, but also to taste the best varieties of this divine drink.
The town's climate is ideal for growing grapes
No less interesting are the architectural sights of Bardolino - the medieval churches of Santa Maria, San Zeno, St. Nicholas, decorated with ancient frescoes, the monastery of St. Columba, palaces and villas of noble nobles. The museums of Bardolino are also worthy of attention - the Museum of Hunting and Fishing and, especially beloved by tourists, the Wine Museum.
A bright and picturesque tourist train runs through the town, the route of which covers the main city attractions.
Sirmione
The resort town of Sirmione lies on a long, narrow peninsula at the southern end of Lake Garda. The main attraction of this ancient city– a fort located right on the coast.
The structure, with its majestic battlements of gray stone, was erected in the 13th century to protect the port from the lake. Previously, it was possible to get to the castle only via a suspension bridge, but later a stationary bridge was built. Today, within the walls of the castle there is a museum dedicated to the history of the city.
Today, within the walls of the castle there is a museum of the history of the city.
Another historical attraction of Sirmione is the Grottoes of Catullus, which are the ruins of a villa that supposedly belonged to the family of the Roman poet Gaius Valerius Catullus. The medieval churches of Santa Maria Maggiore and San Pietro in Mavino are also noteworthy.
People also come to Sirmione for the purpose of healing - the local thermal spring of Boyola, whose waters are saturated with many minerals and trace elements, has unique properties. Healing waters are used to combat respiratory diseases, rheumatism, diabetes, and obesity.
Garda Island (Borgese)
The largest of the five islands of Lake Garda has changed many names in its history - it was known as Lechi Island, Borghese Island, Ferrari Island, Scotty Island and Monks Island.
During the Roman Empire, the island was used as an imperial hunting ground; later, in 1220, on the initiative of Francis of Assisi, a famous religious figure, a monastery was founded in the northern part of the island.
Garda Island is the largest of the lake's five islands
At first it was a modest monastic monastery, which after a couple of centuries turned into a full-fledged monastic complex. By the 16th century, the religious life of the island began to decline, and in 1778 the monastery was closed.
In the 20s of the last century, the island of Garda became the property of the Cavazza family - the owners built a luxurious villa here, richly decorated with all kinds of architectural elements both outside and inside.
One of the rooms houses a painting by Carlo Carloni dating from the 18th century. Next to the villa there is a picturesque garden with exotic plants and incredibly beautiful flowers.
Malcesine
The cozy resort town of Malcesine with winding cobbled streets, medieval buildings, many cafes and an excellent beach area is located on the eastern shore of the lake.
Its main attraction, around which, in fact, the settlement arose, is medieval castle Scaligerov, built on the site of an even more ancient fortress.
The resort town of Malcesine is located on the eastern shore of the lake
The picturesque castle has always been attractive to artists, poets and other creative personalities, but the greatest fame was brought to it by the great Goethe, who wrote about it in his “Italian Travels” and accompanied the description with his own sketches.
Today, a bust of Goethe is installed in the castle and a museum dedicated to the memory of the poet is organized. The Scaliger Castle also houses a Museum natural history Lake Garda and Monte Baldo.
The historical center of Malcesine deserves no less attention than famous castle– here are the ancient churches of San Stefano and Santa Maria di Navene, the Palazzo dei Capitani with magnificent painted ceilings and wonderful frescoes, as well as the Pariani Museum, which houses the most valuable historical documents.
Limone sul Garda
The small town of Limone sul Garda, so popular among tourists, at the beginning of the last century was a small fishing village, accessible only by lake. The land road that gave impetus to development tourism industry, appeared only in 1932.
In the historical part of the city, ancient buildings are well preserved - the churches of San Benedetto and San Rocco, as well as medieval palaces located in Piazza Garibaldi.
Citrus trees have become the calling card of Limone sul Garda
The calling card of Limone sul Garda is the citrus trees that appeared here in the 13th century thanks to the Franciscan monks.
Along with tourism, the town's economy is based on the cultivation of citrus fruits and the production of high-quality olive oil.
And she stubbornly strived to visit here again, and not just passing through, but with feeling, really, for a few days. This wish came true when wishes are supposed to come true - on my birthday.
I’ll say right away that we were on Lake Garda for two days, and that’s very little for such a place. Firstly, because it is simply huge - to go around the lake by car (without stopping) it will take at least 4 hours, and given that along this road here and there there will be various interesting places - Mount Monte Baldo, the towns of Malcesine, Sirmione, Limone sul Garda and many others, with their castles, restaurants and gelaterias, then the travel time around the lake will increase many times over. Also, there is thermal springs, amusement parks, farms where you can taste wine and much more.
City of Sirmione
In general, based on our trip, I have compiled an extremely busy itinerary, so you can transform it as you wish - remove something if you have little time or stretch it out over more days, if possible, so that you can get everywhere calmly and without exhaustion .
Northern part of the lake. Riva del Garda
We started our journey around Lake Garda by car from its northern part. It is more mountainous and therefore the landscapes here, to be honest, are more impressive than on south coast. Rocky Mountains at the foot of which waves crash, and clouds cling to the peaks - this is worth seeing. The lake is so large that the waves here can be very impressive, and given that the opposite shore is not visible, you get the feeling that you are at sea.
Marina in Torbole
In the north of the island, the most popular town is Riva del Garda. It is quite small and there are not many attractions there, the main thing that is there is an embankment overlooking the lake and mountains.
In Riva del Garda you can stop for a couple of hours, see the ancient Rocca fortress, Palazzo Pretorio and stroll along the streets (very Italian and picturesque - colorful houses, shutters, linen on the balconies and that’s all that we imagine when we hear the phrase “Italian” town").
Here you can also climb the peaks of Monte Roccheta and Monte Brione. The views from these points are incredible. If you have too little time to storm the peaks, but still want to see the panorama of the city, then climb to the ancient bastion, it is located at an altitude of 300 meters above the city and the climb to it will take only 15-20 minutes.
If you are planning to have lunch in Riva del Garda, I recommend the enoteca restaurant Enosteria I Momenti, there is very tasty pizza, fresh fish and friendly waiters.
From Riva del Garda to Malcesine
The towns of Lake Garda are small and located close to each other. If you go from Riva del Garda to Malcesine, there will be other picturesque places on your way - Linfano, Torbole, Navene. Each of them has what tourists come here for - views of the lake, cozy restaurants, shops, authentic streets.
street in Malcesine
But our goal is the city of Malcesine. And not even because there is an impressive old castle above the water (which is undoubtedly worth a closer look if you have time), but because this is where the lift to the most famous and most high mountain Lake Garda - Monte Baldo. The funicular on Monte Baldo in Malcesine is very easy to find - firstly, there are signs, and secondly, in the same direction, to the lift station, there are a huge number of people walking besides you.
street in Malcesine
Tip: come to the ski lift early in the morning (it opens from 8:00). After 9-10 hours, in order to get the coveted ticket and go to the lift booth, you will have to stand in line (sometimes for several hours). Funicular cost: 22 euros per person (round trip).
In our case, an emergency situation occurred - while we were standing in line for tickets, the lift broke down and the staff did not give a clear answer as to how soon it would be repaired. In view of this, we decided to take a risk, because we still wanted to get to the mountain, and we went to the top by car. Google gave us two routes, and we chose the one to the north (highlighted in blue on the map below), because we were going to go that way anyway. And you know, it was a very right decision, which led to the most memorable moment of the entire trip.
Climbing Monte Baldo
Road to Monte Baldo
So, we head towards the town of Garda and immediately after it we turn onto the SP8 road. You will begin to slowly climb, passing countless fields of vineyards, small sleepy towns and villas standing alone among the fields.
Vineyards in the Lake Garda region
We noticed one tricky feature - the grape fields are without a fence and are not protected, only if the grapes there are still sour (tested empirically 🙂), or if they have already been harvested, but if they are ripe, still on the branches and are about to be harvested, then The boundaries of the field with such grapes are prudently fenced with a metal mesh.
In the area of the town of Ferrara di Monte Baldo, the road becomes especially steep (at the same time quite narrow and absolutely without barriers - that is, if you fly away, you will fly away) and noticeably colder. In return for these inconveniences, you get simply incredible 360-degree landscapes, fresh delicious air mixed with the aromas of mountain herbs and perfect, peaceful silence.
Landscapes around Monte Baldo
There are practically no tourists here, but there are many, many cows grazing in the mountain meadows. When the wind blows, the bells on their necks begin to ring loudly and monotonously, creating sounds similar to meditation music.
Meadows with cows at the foot of Monte Baldo
This climb up Monte Baldo was a journey within a journey for us. Here you forget that you came to one of the most tourist places Italy and you really relax both soul and body.
And some more landscapes of Monte Baldo
Path in the mountains. Monte Baldo. Italy
The city of Sirmione is the most popular place on Lake Garda
“A holiday on Lake Garda would not be complete without visiting this town” - having encountered such a message in almost all reviews about Sirmione, we, of course, decided to come here. We headed to this city immediately after descending from Monte Baldo.
On the way to Sirmione
A short digression: if you have the opportunity and desire, you can stop by Gardaland - big park attractions in the southern part of the island, on the way to Sirmione. This is, for a second, the third most popular park of its kind in Europe. There are many attractions here, including a “very scary” roller coaster that will be interesting for adults to ride too. The cost of a day ticket starts from 34 euros (depending on the method of purchase, buying online on the website is cheaper).
Let's return to Sirmione.
The plus of this place is that it is truly incredibly beautiful, the minus is that millions of people think the same and this tiny peninsula city is simply suffocating with tourists. No seriously, while walking around Sirmione we stood in line on the street. In line to just go! What's so special here?
Sirmione Fortress
The peninsula is surrounded by an ancient fortress - its walls look very impressive and authentic, it’s true. Each house in the city also resembles a small work of art. A sort of little Venice, only with a lake instead of canals. The streets are very narrow, on some of them it is even impossible for two people to pass each other.
Streets of Sirmione
One of the houses in Sirmione
Another feature and attraction of Sirmione is the gelateria. There are a lot of them here, just incredibly many. In every house (without exaggeration) in this city they sell dozens of types of Italian ice cream in a variety of cones (there were also very huge ones - with half a kilo of ice cream inside, no less). Yes, gelato in Sirmione is really very tasty, but it is expensive here, even for Italy.
The same gelato. Sirmione
Advice: do not buy ice cream in the first shops at the entrance to the city (at the fortress gates), go further, deeper into the streets, closer to the thermal baths, in this area it will be 1-1.5 euros cheaper.
Baths of Sirmione
Healing springs are another feature of Sirmione. There are a lot of spa centers with thermal water, in some of them it may have that characteristic smell of hydrogen sulfide (but not strong).
The most popular thermal baths– a large complex that has saunas, swimming pools with warm water and a view of the lake, the ability to order massages and body wraps.
An adult ticket costs 39 euros (for 5 hours) on weekdays and 43 euros on holidays. It would be safer to make a preliminary reservation by phone or mail.
There is also Terme di Sirmione S.p.A. and Terme Virgilio (but the latter are specifically therapeutic, more like others than others, not like a spa for relaxation, but like a serious wellness center, which is worth going to with a doctor’s referral for specific procedures).
Advice: if you are going to the Baths of Sirmione on your birthday, be sure to inform the staff of the centers about this, because, as a rule, birthday parties are provided Special offers and discounts.
From Sirmione we begin to move up again, to the north of the lake, only along its western part. The road here is very picturesque, just be prepared for the fact that sometimes it will take you away from the coast and hide beautiful villas behind the houses.
Here it is worth visiting the town of Salo (emphasis on the last syllable 🙂) and, of course, Limone sul Garda.
Limone is a very picturesque and charming city. The signs with house numbers in the shape of lemons alone are worth it. Everything here is buried in flowers, lemonade is sold on every corner (just be careful, it is very sour, but invigorating). No other town on Lake Garda has this feeling. seaside resort like here in Limon.
There are many routes between Limone sul Garda and Malcesine water buses(one flight costs from 9 to 13 euros), the crossing lasts no more than 20 minutes. Therefore, you can make a round trip and appreciate the scenery of the lake from the water.
Actually, Limone is the final stop of our route, then we go again towards Riva del Garda along the road that goes above the lake (unlike the one on the east coast - it winds along the bottom, near the water).
West coast of Lake Garda
When we passed this section, it was already dark, but the mountains and the lake were clearly visible - they were illuminated by the full moon, leaving a path on the water, and the lanterns and the light of houses on the opposite coast merged into one bright thread at the foot of the mountains.
Where to stay on Lake Garda
There are many hotels here, but finding the right one was not so easy. Firstly, everything is quite expensive (from 100 euros per night for two), and secondly, I want to have a beautiful view from the window, and a balcony, and at the same time there is no noise from the road (which, let me remind you, goes around the entire coast, that is, if the hotel is near the water, then there will be a roadway nearby).
There are several hotels included in our shot-list:
- , which is located in Riva del Garda. Its advantages are, undoubtedly, a gorgeous view (remember, I wrote above that it is in this part of the mountains along the lake that are the highest), balconies in the rooms (in each), a roof terrace, stylish rooms and remoteness (at least not great) from the road that runs along the shore (there is a small park between the hotel and the lake). This is where we wanted to stay, but there was a little confusion and we booked another place (more on that below).
Terrace of the Bellariva Hotel
- – it is located in Limone sul Garda. Hotel with an outdoor swimming pool, its own garden, lake views and sunbathing area. We didn’t choose it for only one reason - because we wanted to stay in the north of the lake, and it is a little lower (but in blooming and green Lemon).
- – we ended up stopping here. This hotel did not really fit in with our plans, because the rooms at an adequate budget, although with a view, did not have a balcony, but the superior apartments had private terraces with a jacuzzi, but it cost 253 euros per night. We sighed at these cool rooms with a jacuzzi and decided to book the first option (Bellariva), but mixed up the hotels and accidentally booked the standard (without balcony) here in Lago di Garda. We realized the mistake only when we were already standing in the room - with huge windows, but on the first floor and right next to the road. We had to get out of the situation - we went to the reception and said that supposedly Booking did not indicate that the room was on the first floor in front of the road, so we were not ready to rent it. And then a miracle happened - the polite girl at the reception apologized for the fact that Booking did not have this information and changed our room without additional payment. The one with the jacuzzi! 🙂
That same terrace with a jacuzzi (photo from the hotel website, because during such beautiful and soft light on the terrace, we were not in the room, and photos in the dark do not convey all the charm)
Conclusion
Sunset on Lake Garda. Malcesine
Lake Garda is not about “going to see for one day”; you can easily spend a full-fledged vacation here: sunbathing on the beach, walking among the narrow streets of cities or vineyards, climbing peaks covered with dense forests. There are as many types of entertainment on this lake as there are local gelato flavors, wine varieties and pizza toppings, and the landscapes you see here will remain in your heart for a lifetime.
PS: If the article was useful to you, you can thank me by booking a hotel for your trip by going to Booking. Thank you!
Lake Garda (Lago di Garda) is the largest freshwater body of water in Italy, lying halfway from Brescia to Verona, just 1.5 hours from Milan. The lake is divided between three Italian provinces: Verona (in the southeast), Brescia (in the southwest), Trentino (in the north). The name "Garda" is believed to be a corruption of the German word "warda", meaning "guard post". During the Roman Empire, it was called differently - Benaco (translated from Latin as “blessed”).
The area of the lake is 370 square meters. kilometers, length - 51.9 kilometers, and maximum width more than 16 kilometers.
Hidden between the majestic Alpine rocks, Lake Garda was formed here at the end of the last ice age, under the influence of glaciers descending from the mountains. It is thanks to the glaciers that the water here has a slightly emerald tint.
Unique landscapes, scenic views The pleasant climate attracts crowds of tourists here. On the coast, all amenities have been created for them - well-maintained beaches, exclusive hotels, hostels, campsites. The beauty of these places has been famous for a long time; even the ancient Roman nobility loved to spend time here in luxurious villas, enjoying the amazing landscapes - mountain slopes buried in green forests, olive groves, gardens with lemons and cypress trees.
On Lake Garda in Italy there is always something to see and where to relax. It's incredibly beautiful and interesting place, where you can spend a vacation to suit every taste and budget. The local resorts will delight lovers family vacation, sailing, nightlife, active entertainment, quiet walks. And connoisseurs of Mediterranean landscapes and architectural monuments will appreciate the numerous attractions.
Resorts and Attractions
Along the coast of Garda there are many ancient villages, towns with cute streets, gardens and architectural complexes, many of which have survived to this day in their original form. Guests can enjoy numerous excursions, walking and boat trips, spacious promenades, beaches, luxurious villas, restaurants, as well as the fascinating atmosphere of parks and gardens. Active types of recreation, such as windsurfing, and more aristocratic ones - golf, tennis, squash, are popular.
Sirmione and Villa Catullus
One of the most popular resorts was the ancient Roman fort city of Sirmione, which occupies an entire peninsula in the south. There are restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, spa complexes and thermal baths, famous for their healing properties. The main attractions: the churches of Santa Maria Maggiore and San Pietro in Mavino, as well as the villa of the famous ancient poet Catullus.
The visiting card of the lake is the Grotto of Catullus (Grotte di Catullo). The grotto is the ruins of a huge ancient villa, built around 150 AD. e., on the edge of the Sirmione peninsula.
City of Garda
Another popular resort is called Garda, which is 30 kilometers from Verona. According to one version, the reservoir owes its name to this city. The place is exclusively touristic, with a population of only 4 thousand people. Nearby is one of the most famous amusement parks in Italy - Gardaland, and the Gardaland SEA PARK aquarium.
Riva and Torbole
In the northern part of the reservoir are the cities of Riva and Torbole, famous for their winds, which attract lovers of yachting, kitesurfing, and windsurfing.
Malcesine and Scaliger Castle
On a small cape in the north-eastern part of Lake Garda, on the slopes of Mount Baldo, stands the town of Malcesine. Built around a picturesque medieval fortress Skaligerov. Near the castle, in a small marina, there are small squares and streets full of shops, cozy bars and restaurants that give this place a magical charm. In Malcesine there are hundreds of hotels, villas, and 12 campsites. The main harbor of the city is quite small, but attractive and constantly filled with boats and yachts.
Malcesine is considered one of the most elegant and well-equipped resorts on the Garda coast. In summer, the climate here is more moderate than in the south, which allows you to comfortably spend time going on excursions and walking around the surrounding area.
The main attraction for tourists in Malcesine is the historical Scaliger Castle. The name of the castle comes from the Dela Scala family, which owned it from the 13th to the 14th centuries. It was used, redesigned and adapted for military purposes until the 19th century. Today, guests can freely walk along the fortress walls and climb main tower, from where you can admire the view of the tiled roofs of cozy Italian houses.
Mount Monte Baldo
Above Garda rises Monte Baldo, also known as the European Botanical Garden, due to the diversity of the growing flora: vineyards, olives, oleanders, etc. The height of the mountain is about 2,000 meters. A cable car runs from the tops of the mountain ranges to Malcesine. Along it you can climb to a height of 1,760 meters and enjoy panoramic views of the Alpine foothills.
Mount Monte Baldo is perfect for walks and excursions to natural attractions. Especially on hot days, when the temperature in the mountains is lower and the winds are cooler than the surface of the water far below. In winter, the slopes serve as a base for winter species sports.
When the snow melts, lovers hiking and mountain bikes opens up the opportunity to travel mountain routes, both simple and extreme.
Limone sul Garda
Another popular resort in Garda is Limone Sul Garda. Arriving here on time summer holidays It is worth preparing for the crowds of tourists filling the already cramped streets. The heart of old Limone is the small harbor of Porto Viccio, from which narrow streets lined with souvenir shops diverge. There are many places in the city where you can have a drink and a snack overlooking the water.
The pier begins in the north of Limone. It is no longer as noisy and bustling as in the center, and the streets pass through numerous hotels, quiet cafes, abandoned lemon groves, and small beaches. IN south direction there is a more modern part of the city, with a wide promenade, parking, and hotel complexes.
Riva del Garda
Riva del Garda is a bustling Italian city on the northern coast of Lake Garda, second largest after Desenzano del Garda. The city is surrounded on three sides mountain ranges Alps Until 1918, it was part of Austria, which greatly influenced it - there is something peaceful in the streets and architecture, not at all Italian. Now it's Italian region Trentino-Alto Adige, province of Trento.
There is a slightly different atmosphere here, different from other resorts - at the same time lively and very calm. Ideal place for relaxing in the squares along the coast and walking along cozy streets. Coastline includes a harbour, park, beach.
The main building in the city is Torre Apponale - a clock tower built in the 13th century, with a bell and observation deck. Access to the tower is open to everyone.
Islands on Lake Garda
There are many scattered around the lake small islands and five large ones. The largest of them is Garda Island (Isola di Garda). It was on it that Francis of Assisi founded a monastery in 1220. In 1890 - 1903, according to the design of Luigi Rovelli, a villa was built here in the Venetian-neo-Gothic style. Since 2002, the island has been open to visitors.
A little further south is San Biagio (Isola di San Biagio), also known as the “Island of Rabbits”. Like the island of Garda, San Biagio is located closer to the western coast, on the border with the municipality of San Felice del Benaco.
Three others large islands- Olive Island (Isola dell'Olivo), Dream Island (Isola del Sogno), Island of Three Apples (Isola del Trimelone) - lie to the north, closer to the eastern side of the lake.
Weather
In summer it is quite hot here - the air temperature often exceeds 30 degrees. This weather encourages the growth of Mediterranean plants, including olives and lemons, which is very rare at these latitudes. The water warms up to 19-22 degrees on average. Climatic conditions greatly influenced the tourism potential of the region, which began to grow rapidly after the Second World War.
In ancient times, poets noted the mild climate and brisk winds of Lake Garda. It's really windy here often. Air currents descending from the mountains regularly sweep across the reservoir, and even have their own names. For example, getting up early in the morning North wind called "Peler". Thanks to the turbulent winds, this place has become one of the most attractive places for windsurfing in Europe.
Movement
The main ways to travel between resorts are by bus and ferry. The main advantage of the bus is its low cost and speed of travel. Bus routes run along both the east and west coasts. The operators are Transporti Brescia (in the west) and ATV (in the east).
The ferry, compared to land transport, is very slow and not always cheap, but at the same time it allows you to fully experience the atmosphere of the unique Italian lake. Other varieties also ply along it. water transport: hydrofoils, romantic paddle steamers, small catamarans.
In order to get to know all the sights of Lake Garda better, we recommend purchasing tickets for a sightseeing tour. The routes of such tours pass through most of the settlements along the coast - from Riva in the north to Sirmione in the south.
Information about costs and ship schedules are posted at the piers, and tickets can also be purchased there. Schedules and prices are also available on this website.
How to get to Lake Garda
Nearest major airport is Verona Valerio Catullo airport, you can also fly to the small airport of Brescia. In addition, many people start their journey from Milan, where the airports of Linate, Malpensa and Bergamo are located, or Venice (Marco Polo Airport). There are various ways to get from these cities.
On train It is worth going to the station of Desenzano del Garda (Desenzano del Garda-Sirmione), located in the city of the same name and where the TrenItalia trains stop, running, in particular, between Milan and Venice.
On car It's also quite easy to get to: the southern part is reached by the A4 highway (Milan-Venice), and the A22 highway (Brenner-Modena) runs to the north. The SS 249 Gardesana Orientale road runs along the eastern bank, and the SS 45 bis Gardesana Occidentale along the western bank.
lozwilkes/flickr
Garda, my favorite lake in northern Italy, is not easy to see. If you come in the summer, at the height of the season, you won’t see anything: the beauty will be hidden behind the monolithic crowd of vacationers. In winter, risking death from the dampness and piercing wind, you will run from bar to bar, studying the lake from lithographs covering antique holes in the walls of establishments. And only the demi-season months of April and October provide a chance not just to see, but to get a good look at the “fjord” stretching for fifty kilometers, on the shores of which great melancholics have regularly settled for the last two millennia.
For its bays sandwiched by mountains, Garda is compared to the Norwegian fjords
The word “fjord” has to be put in quotation marks when applied to Garda, because it is a lake, not a bay. But bring any connoisseur blindfolded here to the music of Grieg, and anyone, seeing a narrow strip of water sandwiched between the rocks, will believe that he is in Norway. This is how you have to come to Garda, “blindfolded” - under the cover of darkness. And start the journey not from the wide southern tip, but from the corner in the north of the lake in the town of Riva del Garda, where the lake pretends to be Norwegian fjord. Run to the embankment in the morning and gasp at the grandiose view: soft folds of gray mountains, white clouds clinging to rocks, water covered with the giant shadow of the eastern shore. By noon, the sun hangs directly above the lake, and the theatrical effect disappears, but at sunset in the Gardesan theater under open air give the second act: the wind subsides, the ripples pass, and the mountains, painted pink, are reflected in the mirror rose water. And tears, even without Grieg, flow from my eyes.
Day one: Rovereto, Pantheon of Contemporary Art
After enjoying the morning views of the lake from the window of my room, I drove... away from Garda - up into the mountains, towards Rovereto. Strange? Not at all. There are several points along the road from which Garda appears in all its glory. In addition, in Rovereto, which has a population of forty thousand people, there is a Mart, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Trento and Rovereto, and this museum was strongly recommended to me by my Italian comrades.
Serpentine followed serpentine, one postcard view followed by another, until beyond the pass the lake disappeared from view. And another Italy began. Actually, there are three different Italys. The first consists of Florence, Garda, Rome, the island of Capri, the vineyards of Tuscany, Vesuvius, the canals of Venice, Juliet's balcony and other beauties that are recognizable and protected by the world community. The second Italy is a country of motorways. You rush along it at a speed of 150 kilometers per hour, barely noticing mountains, gorges, rivers and stopping only to refuel at Autogrill stations. The Third Italy is a gigantic industrial zone, filling all the space between the first and second. As soon as you leave the historic center of the city or leave the highway, rows of warehouses, piles of factory buildings and giant farms begin. All this stretches to the next historical center or highway entrance. Some people see only the first Italy, others go straight from the highway to large shops and villages selling goods at discounts, the third one is something only a few want to see and are noticed by only a few.
Lake Garda, like everything large, is visible only from a distance and only from above
So, the Garda disappeared behind the pass, and right up to the entrance to historical Center Rovereto I found myself in Italy number three with all its warehouses and canneries. There was no way to bypass it, and there was no need: the Italy of the industrial zone is just as beautiful as postcard Italy. It’s just beautiful in other ways: you see how passionately and tirelessly the Italians work, how everything we love is created - from Gucci bags to mortadella, how cheese matures and wine ages, how cars and motorcycles are assembled. Moreover, in this Italy the food is much better than in the first (not to mention the second).
Thanks to the Almighty for the navigator, I reached Rovereto, found the museum and its parking lot, and soon found myself in a square covered with a dome of expired steel. The forty-meter dome, designed by architect Mario Botta, turns out to be the same size as the roof of the Roman Pantheon. Like the Pantheon, in the center of the dome there is a hole through which precipitation can get inside.
Portraits of Gardezans different years at the Mart Museum in Rovereto
The museum itself is located around a square covered with a dome, all the halls are looped. Convenient: architecture leaves no choice, you go and go, move from room to room, without being able to leave the orbit of contemporary art. Architecture is perhaps the most interesting thing that can be found in Mart. No, all art is interesting, all the exhibitions in the museum are made inventively and with compassion for the visitor, and if you are drawn to see local artists of the last and the century before last, Mart is just the place to go, but if there are more important things to do, you can safely not go to Rovereto. Moreover, in Riva del Garda there is also a museum and it also has paintings.
Back in Riva, I spent the evening with fish and whites from Trentino at the restaurant Il Re della Busa, right in the Lido Palace. Chef Giuseppe prepared pasta with lake perch (I'm willing to order perch just because of the name: perch is called "peach" in Italian) and grilled Gardesan eel. For dessert I decided to explore the hotel. The original Lido Palace, built in 1899 (its guests included Archduke Franz Ferdinand, Grand Duchess Olga Alexandrovna, King Victor Emmanuel III) was reconstructed several years ago. Another floor (fortunately airy, made of glass) was added to the belle époque style building, and a rusty metal structure appeared in front of the façade facing the lake. A restaurant and a swimming pool were hidden under the structure. Interestingly, the luxurious hundred-year-old park was not damaged during the reconstruction.
Spaghetti with lake perch ragu ("peach") - a specialty of the restaurant Il Re della Busa at the Lido Palace Hotel
Day two: Gargnano, “Lemon Riviera” and “Bad Villa”
The next morning along Gardesana Occidentale, a road along west coast Guards, I went to Gargnano, the center of the Lemon Riviera. “Lemon” because excellent lemons are grown on the local terraces. I once stayed at the Riviera dei Limoni in one of best hotels in the world, in Grand Hotel a Villa Feltrinelli. The villa is famous not so much for its incredible park, lemon terraces, architecture, but even more for one of the owners and one of the guests.
The last owner of the villa from the Feltrinelli family was Giangiacomo Feltrinelli, the founder of the Feltrinelli publishing house, which first published Doctor Zhivago, a friend of Che Guevara and Fidel. And the most famous guest is Benito Mussolini, who in 1943–1945 led the Italian Social Republic, known as the Republic of Salò, from the villa. The villa preserves Mussolini's marble bath, the apartments of his confidential Clara Petacci, and a bomb shelter. The bathroom can be used by any guest who has rented the Duce’s room, and the bomb shelter now has a wine cellar. Thick walls to maintain temperature and humidity finally came in handy.
Another site in Gargnano that does not have plaques is the Feltrinelli Palace, the former building of the Duce's government, now a branch of the University of Milan. Right behind the palace is the embankment. I spent the day there, exposing my face to the sun and only at dusk moving to La Tortuga di Orietta, the best restaurant in Gargnano with a Michelin star. Since there was no need to inspect the hotel, I gave the spaghetti with lake fish ragu and the Gardesan whitefish everything in full.
Palazzo Feltrinelli in Gargnano is a mute witness to the most turbulent years of recent Italian history
Clara Petacci, Mussolini's friend, fell asleep on this bed and under this chandelier in Villa Fiordaliso.
Day three: Gardone Riviera, home of the main Italian dandy
On the third morning, still following the same Gardesana Occidentale, I reached Gardone Riviera, a town in which another Italian troublemaker and megalomaniac, Gabriele d’Annunzio, erected a memorial for himself during his lifetime. With the modest name Vittoriale degli Italiani (roughly - “Sanctuary of Italian victories”). Writer, playwright, author of decadent poems, including the romance “Dawn separates light from darkness,” which was immortalized by Enrico Caruso, dandy, military man and even dictator (in 1920, for 130 days, he ruled the Republic of Fiume, which he also proclaimed), d' Annunzio was generally a master of apt words. For example, it was he who in 1918 came up with the name for the huge Milan department store - La Rinascente, “reborn”, meaning, of course, his beloved Italy. So the memorial, which the poet began to build in 1921, when the “rebirth” of the country was in full swing, he named it so that everyone would immediately understand who the true Italian was here.
On the most high point a mausoleum of the writer and his friends was built on the estate of Gabriele d'Annunzio
Having settled in a 16th-century villa confiscated from a German historian after the First World War, D’Annunzio was finally able to carry out his imperialist plans. Mussolini preferred to keep the eccentric writer in a golden cage far from Rome and gave him hectares of land in the area (a couple of thousand years earlier, a similar thing happened with another poet, Valerius Catullus, who also settled on Garda, or on Lake Benac, as it was called then) . The government created state funds to finance the purchase of plots for D’Annunzio, the army gave him gifts like an airplane, on which the poet flew to “bomb” Vienna with proclamations, and the military frigate “Puglia” (it was brought to the estate and installed on a hill). On D'Annunzio's estate they built an amphitheater (performances are still performed today), a museum and a library, then they designed a mausoleum for the owner and his associates (construction was completed only in the 1950s, twenty years after D'Annunzio's sudden death from a heart attack, and although the Duce gave the poet a state funeral; the ashes were transferred to the mausoleum only in 1963).
The main curiosity of Garda is the house of the poet D'Annunzio: the Italian branch of both the Lenin Library and the Museum of Decorative Arts
Even today, dignitaries can be received in D’Annunzio’s house. The table is already set
But the main curiosity of the estate-sanctuary remains D’Annunzio’s house. It is gloomy: the owner’s eyes, damaged by a flash from a bomb explosion during the war, could not stand the bright light. The rooms are filled with books (about ten thousand volumes in total) and various collections of tortoiseshell combs, bottles, images of deities, porcelain figurines, paper knives (more than thirty thousand items). Two offices: one next to the bedroom - in case inspiration strikes on the bed, the other under the roof. There is even a separate room with medicines (the poet, of course, was a hypochondriac).
I started to feel unwell myself and went down to the lake to Villa Fiordaliso, a small hotel with a Michelin star restaurant. I knocked on the door, they opened it for me, took me through all five rooms (Clara Petacci lived in one, who, in addition to the apartments at Villa Feltrinelli, wanted to have her own home at a distance), showed me an ancient tower standing in the water of Garda, led me to a restaurant, and sat me down at the table. If I had entered the villa in the summer, there would definitely not have been a place for me, but, out of season, they treated me like an exposed Michelin inspector. And yes, the nasturtium pesto and dove with figs were excellent.
With them my cultural and historical weekend ended. I once again promised myself that on my next trip I would stay for a week, get to Salo, the Roman ruins in Sirmione, and the fishing town of Peschiera del Garda. That, instead of the monument to the madness of Gabriele d’Annunzio, I will certainly move to the monument to human love - Verona, which is half an hour away. That in the north of Garda, where the paths are laid along the shore, I will see a couple more sunrises. And then he went to watch the sunset. Once again I didn’t need Grieg.
You just want to jump from the bridges of the baths into the clear lake water. True, swimming in it even in summer is a feat
Where to stay, eat and experience around Lake Garda
RIVA DEL GARDA
Lido Palace Hotel
The building, built in 1899, was rebuilt and a restaurant and swimming pool were opened in the park.
Restaurant Il Re Della Busa
Try capelloti with pike and spaghetti with perch ragu. Through panoramic windows you can view the park.
Viale Giosuè Carducci, 10, lido-palace.it, dinner from €65.
Spiaggia Degli Olivi
A former beach pavilion built in the 1930s. Risotto with lake tench and grilled Gardesan whitefish are good, but the place may be closed on sailing regattas.
Via Giardini di Porta Orientale, dinner from €40.
Museo Alto Garda (Mag)
The museum is located in the coastal castle of Rocca, rebuilt by the Austrians into garrison barracks. Climb Mastio Tower for a bird's eye view of Riva.
Piazza C. Battisti, 3/A, museoaltogarda.it, from 10:00 to 18:00, except Mon (daily in summer), ticket €3, child €1.50.
ROVERETO
March Rovereto
The museum houses contemporary art, from the late 19th century to the present day, in a building that is a masterpiece of modern architecture.
Corso Bettini, 43, mart.trento.it, Tue - Thu from 10:00 to 18:00, Fri - from 10:00 to 21:00, Sat - Sun from 10:00 to 20:00, ticket €13, children's €9.
GARNANO
Grand Hotel A Villa Feltrinelli
The Feltrinelli family villa was purchased from the Italian Republic by the legendary American hotelier Bob Burns and installed 13 rooms in the main building and 7 more in the garden. Best views from the octagonal tower suite.
Via Rimembranza, 38–40, villafeltrinelli.com, rooms from €1,050, including breakfast, drinks in the bar, aperitif and laundry.
Restaurant La Tortuga Di Orietta
Order spaghetti with ragu of lake fish and Gardesan whitefish with local capers, lemons and tomatoes - the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star largely for them.
Via Ventiquattro Maggio, 5, dinner from €65, tasting menu “Aromas and Flavors of Garda” (starter, pasta, main course and dessert) - €85.
GARDONE RIVIERA
Hotel Villa Fiordaliso
Historic Gardesan villa on the water. The hotel has only five rooms, so it is better to book a room a month or two in advance. Please note - the hotel does not have an elevator.
Corso Zanardelli, villafiordaliso.it, rooms from €250.
Restaurant Villa Fiordaliso
Another Michelin star in the Garda area. Choose between linguine with nasturtium pesto and sea truffle, grilled lake eel with caramelized garlic and pigeon with wild mushrooms and figs, with foie gras sauce.
Corso Zanardelli, villafiordaliso.it, dinner from €80, 6-course tasting menu €120.
Vittoriale Degli Italiani
The museum-memorial of the dandy, eccentric and enfant terrible Gabriele D'Annunzio makes it possible to understand that genius and madness are very often things that go together.
Having traveled up and down all 4 of the most famous northern Italian lakes (Garda, Como, Lugano and Maggiore), I made an unequivocal conclusion for myself - for a long summer holiday The lake is best. You can argue which lake is more beautiful, which is more secluded, where better hotels and beaches. Here everyone has their own opinion, but this article is not about that, but about where vacations are more interesting and varied.
On the lake Maggiorebest place to live in Stresa (Stresa) or in Verbania (Verbania), these are the most Beautiful places, from which you can take a boat to visit the amazing Borromean islands of Pescatore, Bella and Madre with two magnificent castles, you can climb Mt. Mottarone (Mottarone) http://www.stresa-mottarone.it/ and ride down from there on a mountain bike or ride the luge-rail track up there. Near Stresa there is beautiful park around the villa Pallavicino ( Parco della Villa Pallavicino) http://www.parcozoopallavicino.it/ , and boats depart from the pier to Swiss Ascona. A circular railway-water route is also proposed, but I’m not sure that this is interesting - I drove by car through the places where it runs and didn’t see anything outstanding. So, I think it’s worth staying on Lago Maggiore for 2-3 days, no more.
Lake ComoMost often we perceive it as the place where George Clooney lived in his villa in the recent past. He sold the villa, but many famous people They still own property here to this day. The lake is remote from the main tourist routes, the banks are steep, the roads are narrow. All this makes it a little less accessible than other lakes, which is what attracts high society here. The main local entertainment is boat trips and visiting public parks and villas. This is for us tourists, and the powers that be, apparently, simply find peace and solitude here.
Lake Lugano and is not remarkable at all, except for the very Swiss Lugano- a solid, calm, but not very outstanding city. There is also a miniature park “Switzerland in Miniature” (Swissminiatur), but it clearly does not live up to the Klagenfurt “Minimundus” (Minimundus), not until “Mini Italy” (Italy in miniature) in Rimini.
And finally, the lake. Main tourist centers Three coastal towns can be considered: Sirmione, Riva del Garda, Malcesine in conjunction with Limone sul Garda. You can stay in them, but if you want more peace and quiet, then any place from Malcesine before Torri del Benaco. This coast, in my opinion, is the best for living in terms of beauty, location relative to all attractions, and price-quality ratio. The water in the lake is clean and warms up to 24 degrees in summer, so swimming is quite possible, only the beaches are rocky, there are no sandy ones.So, what can you visit, how to have fun on Lake Garda, where to go and what to see.
1. Limone sul Garda
Strictly speaking, from any point on the lake you can swim to Limone Sul Garda to the country of “limonia”, where, indeed, lemons grow and limoncello, a sickly sweet lemon liqueur, is sold at every turn.
2. Mount Monte Baldo
The climb up the mountain is memorable for its gorgeous panoramas and llamas grazing in the high-mountain meadows. It costs 20 euros, you need to come early, there may be a long queue by mid-day. For extreme sports enthusiasts, there is another form of entertainment - going down on a mountain bike; you can rent a bike right there at the lower station of the funicular. And don't forget that it can be cold and windy at the top.
3. Sirmione
The main city of the lake is definitely Sirmione(Sirmione). Himself geographical position very unusual. A long peninsula, several kilometers wide at the base and several hundred meters wide at the end, is separated from Sirmione by a channel and the powerful walls of the Scaliger fortress. In fact, it is an island, and a very beautiful one at that.
My favorite route starts with climbing the fortress and then walking along the right bank to the public beach. The path runs along the shore and in one place there are pipes for discharging excess thermal water directly into the lake, as evidenced by the obvious smell of hydrogen sulfide. Take a photo on the pier and then climb up through the olive grove with comfortable benches for relaxation. On the road turn right towards the villa Catullo. There is little left of the villa of the ancient Roman poet, and the need to visit the ruins for a fee always makes me doubtful, but from the entrance there will be a beautiful panorama, so the walk makes sense. On your way back, turn right in the direction of the ancient church Chiesa di San Pietro in Mavino.
Then, continuing forward, you will go to the Baths of Catullo and further to the shopping and entertainment part of the city. The Baths of Catullo are small and purely therapeutic and relaxing. Hot hydrogen sulfide water is supplied to small outdoor pools, in which you just need to soak. They have no other entertainment. The town itself is untouched by modern urban planning and is distinguished by its cleanliness, abundance of flowers, shops, restaurants and other tourist delights. And, of course, crowds of vacationers during the high season.
4. Gardaland
6. Safari Park and Zoo
A very green place, a good place to spend time with children, take a walk, and look at the animals. For example, the enclosure where rhinos and hippos live together is very funny, because in the wild they are not neighbors. If you arrive by car, then drive straight to the gate. They will sell you a ticket from the window, and you will be able to drive your car through the safari park. That is, you will slowly drive through an area where animals roam freely, and only then, after parking your car, you can visit a classic zoo.
7. Sigurtha Park
A very large private park, which is worth setting aside at least half a day to explore. You can explore it on foot or rent a bicycle or an electric car, similar to those used on golf courses.
8. Trip to Verona
From almost any city you can get to Verona by regular bus. The city is famous and undoubtedly interesting. The history, dating back to the times of the Celts and Romans, is forever imprinted on the marble pavements. The city of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, rulers from the Scaliger dynasty and the great Dante, has only one significant drawback - it is too touristy. The flow of people wanting to rub Juliet’s bronze breasts never stops for almost a minute, neither in winter nor in summer, nor on weekdays, nor on weekends. In addition to historical monuments, tourists are attracted by the boutique street Via Giuseppe Mazzini, where the best brands of almost all fashion houses in the world are presented. Come to Verona, but be prepared for human noise, hustle and bustle. There are many restaurants in the center, but almost all of them are aimed at tourists. The best place I have eaten at is http://www.listonristorantepizzeria.it/ and their best dish is “Spaghetti allo Scoglio” (spaghetti with shellfish and fruits of the sea).
9. Varone Waterfall
The Varone Waterfall is located near Riva del Garda, but you can’t get there on foot. The waterfall is interesting because the water falls in a cave, and not in the open air. The spectacle is interesting and pleasant, especially when it’s +30º outside in the shade.
10. Thermae Aquardence
Modern baths halfway from Verona to Lake Garda http://www.aquardens.it/. Getting to them other than by car is problematic. The water is thermal, but without a pronounced smell or taste. Large spaces of water indoors and outdoors make swimming comfortable, even with large quantity visitors.
11. Baths of Catullo
Located in the historical part of Sirmione, they are the most famous and popular. The smell of hydrogen sulfide water is not very pleasant, but its beneficial properties and the view of the lake compensate for this drawback. The thermal baths are small, the number of visitors is limited, there is nowhere to swim, you can only lie in the outdoor pools and relax.
12. Thermal Villa Cedri
The pools are located directly in the park in the shade of large trees. This is the main attractive side of this hydrotherapy complex http://www.villadeicedri.it/.
13. Outlets
There are two outlets located approximately at the same distance from Sirmione. One near Mantua http://www.mantovaoutlet.it/. The other one is near Brescia http://www.franciacortaoutlet.it/. Both feature not very well-known brands of clothing and shoes of average quality. There are not many expensive shops. For luxury brands, you should go to Verona or to the outlet http://www.mcarthurglen.com/, located 30 km from Venice.
14. On a boat through coastal towns
15. On foot and by bike
It’s great that starting from Riva ( Riva del Garda) and to the town of Garda there is a cycling and walking trail along the coast. In other places there are also long lakeside promenades, with the exception of the western rocky shore, where, in principle, there is little life. This sets Garda apart from many other lakes. Even if somewhere the path is blocked private villa or the hotel area, the trail will go around them and go out to the water again. You can walk along the beautiful coast for several hours and return home by bus or boat.
Result: Garda is one of the most beautiful and interesting lakes Northern Italy. tropical nature against the backdrop of the snowy Alps, pure water, the chic and elegance of a fashionable resort combined with excellent cuisine and local wine will not leave anyone indifferent. Great holiday You are guaranteed!
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Dmitry Sokolov
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