Lake Ojos del Salado. Climbing Ojos Del Salado (6893 m.)
Ojos del Salado. The summit or how it happens when you forget the word “impossible”. January 8th, 2014
Bye New Year I haven’t fully arrived yet, I’m finishing everything I started last year. Therefore, with heroic efforts I am finishing the story about climbing the most high volcano in the world - Ojos del Salado.
Acclimatization went neither shaky nor slow. That is, no way. After spending one night in the Atacama camp at 5200 and walking to the Tejos assault camp at 5850, Mario and I went to spend the night at 4600 in the Murray hut so that I could recover a little.
The night in the hut was not in vain. In the morning I was cheerful and cheerful and again ready for exploits.
Therefore, early in the morning, right after breakfast, I began to terrorize Mario on the topic “it’s time for us to go up and prepare for the ascent.”
It was the fourth day since we left the city. There were a maximum of two or three days left, after which I had to come to the hospital to check what had happened to my arm.
So I beat my hoof impatiently.
At that moment, Mario had already finally realized that it was better not to argue with crazy people. And we again went to the Atacama camp.
The weather was not good. However, everything was according to the forecast. And according to the forecast for that day, very strong winds were expected. Typically, strong winds were expected every other day. But between these two days a calm was expected.
Less than an hour passed before we arrived at Atacama. This time, besides us, there was a large group of Germans in the camp.
These people are very positive. They travel around Chile, climb volcanoes, and Ojos - well, it will work out well, it won’t work out - well... Such a pleasant mood. When people travel and have fun, and do not crave some kind of exploits.
We sat and chatted all day. Two of them asked me in detail about Ushba and the Bezengi wall, finding out if there were any simple routes there. I had to disappoint them.
Everyone oohed and aahed once again after listening to my story about the accident and the hand. And when they found out that the accident happened just six days ago, they gasped even more.
And only one, after asking me in detail about the details of the injury and the operation, said that it was crazy to go to the top. It turned out that he was a surgeon. But realizing that I was stubborn in my madness, he gave me a couple useful tips, what should be done during the ascent so that global problems do not happen to the hand.
Meanwhile, the weather completely deteriorated. Not only was there a strong wind blowing, but there were also clouds.
While I was photographing the surroundings, one of the Germans came up to me, took his phone and photographed me
According to the plan, we were supposed to move to Tejos in the late afternoon so that we could start the climb early in the morning.
However, time passed, and Mario was clearly not going anywhere.
The Germans listened to the weather forecast from me and somehow also began to actively discuss plans, because they were going to go to the top in a day.
In fact, I wasn't very sure about the prognosis. He was kind of strange. But it brought turmoil into the ranks of the Germans and their numerous guides.
In retaliation, they joked that if we were going to climb, then it would be best for us to take kites with us so that we could fly straight to the top.
In general, I began to suspect some kind of trick and called Mario for negotiations.
The negotiations were short-lived. Mario was as calm as a rock. What? To the top? Of course we will go to the top tomorrow. To Tejos today? What for? This will still not help with acclimatization. We'll get into the car at night and drive to Tejos.
Such a wonderful option had never occurred to me. He was undoubtedly good.
Meanwhile, the clouds stretched and the wind began to subside.
We agreed that we would wake up at two in the morning, and if the wind was not very strong, we would have breakfast and move towards the summit.
I climbed into the tent and began to pack my things. This time I prepared more carefully than ever. Several times I laid things out and put them back again.
Everything had to be foreseen possible options.
Finally, deciding that in the morning I would go through my things again, I tried to sleep.
At two o'clock in the morning it turned out that not only Mario and I woke up, but also all the Germans and their guides.
It turns out my weather forecast still mixed up their plans. In addition, they were inspired by the prospect of getting to Tejos by car.
Half of the Germans went in our car. Half - on the second car. Well, let's go - it's said loudly. We drove literally 200 meters and the car skidded.
Mario drove the Germans out immediately and they went on foot. He and I rode back and forth five more times. We drove to the shelter, after which he pumped up the tires. Then I tried to accelerate through a difficult place... In the end, I had to walk.
But hurray, it didn’t take long to walk. Soon Mario passed a difficult place and caught up with us.
Later it turned out that the second car could not get through, and our Germans went down.
While all these maneuvers were taking place, it was already five o’clock in the morning. And we went up.
The trail to Ojos is such a loose stretch. Walking along it with one stick is of course still a pleasure. I generally don’t walk in the mountains without poles. And then I had to hobble along the path using only one stick.
We walked for a long, long time. I expected that a little more and we would go out to the crater. I asked Mario what the height was.
A little more and it will be 6000 meters...
His answer greatly upset me. And I realized that there would be no miracle and this whole story would last for a long time.
Mario walked ahead at some distance with his hands in his pockets. From time to time he waited for me to capture my movements. But overall, he was clearly bored... But as they say, he took up the tug... Now drag this tug to the top.
I slowly crawled along a zigzag-shaped, rather dreary path.
So I walked, moving the fingers on my sore hand. Seems like he's in control of the situation. But what kind of control is there?
Fifth day in the mountains and now almost 7000 meters... Without acclimatization, after surgery...
In general, on the way to the crater I was covered. More and more often I stopped. I looked up hopelessly... And I thought what would happen if I turned back now
When it turned out that we had finally reached the crater, my state could hardly be called sane...
No, the only thing left for me is clarity of thought. And with these clear thoughts, I understood that in an amicable way I urgently needed to go downstairs. My legs could hardly walk anymore. It was almost impossible to breathe.
I tried to explain to Mario that I felt bad... Because it was no longer on the brink... It had long been beyond the bounds of reason, beyond the bounds of possibility...
But it’s difficult to explain anything when you’re choking on coughing and confused in your thoughts. In addition, our English vocabulary was very limited and did not always match.
In general, he either didn’t understand that I wanted to go down, or he pretended... But we went forward.
In addition, the thought was spinning in my head: I’ve already gone through so much, endured so much, and it would be a shame if all this was in vain.
There were about 150 meters in height left to the top. One and a half to two hours... And as a “pleasant” surprise - access to the top via a rocky tower.
15 meters of easy climbing. And another 20 meters along the ridge...
Then everyone asked me: how did you climb with only one hand?
How did I climb? There is a state when nothing can stop it.
Now I don’t know how I climbed seven thousand meters with one hand, out of breath and practically falling out of reality... But back then it didn’t seem like something super difficult. Here it is - the top.
Mario and I approached the rocks. Again, as we approached... There the trail ends and you have to climb over some stones, loose debris... Yeah, with only one hand.
Well, we approached the rocks. Mario says: climb, it's under here left hand good leads. And so I climbed. I'm generally not good at climbing rocks. But I climbed without doubting for a second that this was the way it should be.
Somewhere towards the end of the path, the convenient steps for the left hand ended. Mario climbed a little lower than me, assuring me that if anything happened he would catch me. And then the moment came when I stretched myself in a certain crooked position and realized that I really needed my right hand...
I had to urgently explain to Mario that right now I thought I was going to fall.
He quickly crawled up to me and helped me climb up.
And here are a few more meters along the ridge...
I tried to realize that I had finally reached the top. No matter how bad it is, despite everything...
It was somehow difficult to comprehend all this. So I lay on the top listlessly photographing the surroundings
The tireless Mario dragged my almost lifeless carcass to show that Ojos is an active volcano. If you move a little to the side from the top you can really see the smoking fumaroles
However, it was necessary to go down
It was the most terrible descent. I walked and thought only about getting there. Get there with your own feet. Otherwise, it will be somehow inconvenient if you have to drag the hero down...
And I walked. Sometimes it seemed to me that it was slower than going up.
And then this crazy endless descent ended.
And there was a car in Texas. Literally 20 minutes, and here we are on the Atacama... I sat in the car for another hour and was dumb.
Mario brought me compote.
I ate pineapples and berries, looked at the top of Ojos... I understood that I would still have to pay for this forced march to the top...
But it didn't matter then.
Then there was just a feeling of happiness. And I hardly can describe it.
AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety Priority
From the very beginning of our activities, for almost 16 years, the first operating principle of the MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Climbing is the Priority of Safety. The entire learning process is built on the basis of this Principle; all programs and tours are developed and conducted exclusively within the framework of this main Principle. We believe that with a professional approach to program development, personal discipline and proper motivation, mountaineering and rock climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the opposite - all the troubles and accidents in our sport come from unprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect of basic safety standards, from irrational motivation, from overestimation of one’s own strengths and capabilities. We COMPLETELY EXCLUDE all these prerequisites in our work - our Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Priority of Safety. In rock climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, MCS AlexClimb's Safety Priority is your personal safety and comfort, no matter what we are doing - training muscles and practicing movement techniques in the gym and on the climbing wall, making our way through a snowstorm to the top or relaxing on the golden sand of the Caribbean beach after a hot day of training on the rocks. The priority of Safety is the main credo of the MCS AlexClimb Mountaineering and Climbing School.
AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Closely interacting with nature, conducting active programs in the mountains, forests, rivers and lakes, we perfectly understand the importance of a careful and respectful attitude towards nature and its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor activities, we adopted the Leave No Trace technique - a norm of human behavior accepted throughout the civilized world in relation to the environment and especially to wildlife. Indeed, from the attitude of people to the nature next to which they exist, one can draw far-reaching conclusions about the attitude of these people to themselves... Wherever and how we travel, we do not leave any garbage behind us, we try to reduce our impact on the environment as much as possible. environment to a minimum. We clear previously contaminated tourist sites from the garbage left behind, take out and take to disposal sites what other people left there before us. We believe that only in this way, with the personal individual consciousness of every citizen, every tourist, climber or road traveler, will we be able to preserve the nature around us in its natural, livable state - this is the key to a healthy future for ourselves and our children.
AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober consciousness
The position of the MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing regarding a healthy lifestyle is clear - we believe that only a sober consciousness is capable of sincerely experiencing and sympathizing, enjoying life in all its diversity. A bright and fulfilling life is possible only subject to absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any drugs that cloud our perception of reality are intended to harm our consciousness and physical health, replace true values with false ones, destroy us as people - turn us into a flabby, powerless, senseless, gray herd with dull eyes. We do not impose our point of view on anyone; everyone has the opportunity to make their own choice. But inside our School we tacitly accept a very specific, very simple set of rules: no alcohol, no drugs. Blitz Tour Santiago-Ojos Del Salado-Laguna Verde. Many years later I found myself back in Chile; If many years ago it was a trip to a business summit, now my goal was to solo climb the Ojos Del Salado volcano. An eight-hour drive along the Pan-American Highway from Santiago and I'm in Copiapo, capital of the Atacama region, the driest place in the world.This city became famous last year when the world's attention was focused on one of the mines near the city, where miners were rescued at a depth of several hundred meters after being underground for many days.
After a night in one of the cozy hotels in the city, my path lay through the desert, to the Atacama camp at an altitude of 5200 meters. After about forty minutes of driving, the road turned into a “direction” and it became clear that you can only move here in vehicles with all-wheel drive and it is advisable to have a pair of spare wheels and cans of fuel. For almost 300 kilometers there are no gas stations and virtually no life, with the exception of a few places where llamas live, and a border control point near the border with Argentina.
Three and a half hours later I saw a sign for the turn towards the volcano; after that, the road finally ended and only a rut remained, made by rare vehicles delivering climbers to the Atacama camp. A couple of hours later my car barely made it to the camp. The height was already clearly felt here; Before this, I had the opportunity to walk on the slopes of Mount Rainier in the USA several times, but this was clearly not enough. Another three hours of walking to the Tejos camp at an altitude of 5900 meters. The climb to the top the next morning was not very pleasant due to lack of acclimatization, but luck helped me and the low temperature, about -8 C, and the wind, no more than 20 km per hour, helped. The top of this volcano often becomes inaccessible due to stormy winds that sharply lower the temperature. According to the weather forecast, two weeks ago at the summit the winds were about 100 km per hour at temperatures down to -15C; there was no need to think about climbing to the top in such weather. And in good weather and with good acclimatization, climbing to the top is a pleasure, and a fantastic view of the surrounding volcanoes will be a good reward.
The descent to the car and the road to Laguna Verde was easier. At the entrance to the lagoon there was a wrecked car; perhaps it was “left over” from the recent Dakar race, one of the stages of which took place in this area two weeks ago.
Having pitched my tent on the shores of Laguna Verde with a fantastic view of the surrounding volcanoes and flamingos that roamed on the other side of the lagoon, I plunged into the hot springs with great pleasure.
The way back was easier, except for the punctured wheel of my car, and the spare wheel that was installed with great difficulty, which flew off literally five hundred meters after the start of the journey back, along with the bolts... Vladimir Doronin Santiago, Chile
The peak of Ojos del Salado is one of the highest in the middle part watershed ridge Andes mountain system, pretty for a long time maintaining the status of " extinct volcano"due to the fact that the last volcanic eruption supposedly occurred 1300 years ago. Its slopes are covered with frozen lava. Since then there has been no historical record of his activity. But in 1937 and 1956 The volcano manifested itself in the form of small emissions of sulfur and steam, and in 1993 there was a minor eruption in the form of ash. Based on the presence of fumaroles on the mountain, it can be safely classified as “active”. This stratovolcano has a complex structure. In its ancient destroyed shield there is a younger cone, which appeared in the post-glacial period.
Now this border Argentine-Chilean volcano is considered the highest active volcano peace.
The summit of the volcano, whose height is indicated in various sources as 6893 m, is located on the Argentine side. Although there is no absolutely accurate information about the height, and according to various sources its range ranges from 6880 to 7057 m. The peak on the Chilean side is one of best places in this country for mountaineering. Nearby is the city of Copiapo, where climbing groups are formed (favorable time for climbing from November to March). By the way, the volcano was first conquered in 1937 by Polish climbers. Upon further exploration of the volcano, Indian sacrificial altars were discovered from the era when the Incas considered the mountain divine and sacred, making sacrifices to it.
As for the location of the volcano, this is unique place, combining desert conditions and contrasting with its color, intense green lagoons and snow-capped peaks. In these lagoons you can see large flocks of flamingos, horned coots, many ducks, foxes and guanacos, which have adapted to survive in this environment with night temperatures of -25 C and winds of over 130 km per hour.
The driest desert on the planet, the Atacama, extends to the west of the volcano, so its western slopes are dry and deserted. On the eastern side of the volcano there is a lot of rainfall; here they grow up to a height of 3000 m. rainforests. At altitudes above 5000 m there is snow. In the crater of the volcano, on the eastern side at an altitude of 6390 m above sea level lies the most high lake peace. In the sandy expanses of the volcano, especially large deposits of table salt, as well as iodine, copper, and nitrate were found. Apparently that’s why its name translated from Spanish means “salt springs” or “salt eyes.”
Well, the most memorable moment in the history of the volcano can be considered the conquest of 6688 m in a Suzuki SJ car by a Chilean athlete in 2007, whose record is listed in the Guinness Book of Records.
Climbing Ojos del Salado is very popular among climbers all over the world. Particular pleasure comes from climbing in good weather and good acclimatization, and the reward for this is an unforgettable fantastic view of the surrounding area.
(G) (I) Coordinates: 27°06′34″ S w. / 68°32′32″ W. d.27.10944° S w. 68.54222° W d. / -27.10944; -68.54222
1937 (Justin Woiznys and Jan Szczepanski)
The volcano is considered extinct, since not a single eruption has been recorded throughout its entire history of observations. However, passive volcanic activity was occasionally observed. Thus, in , and 1993 there were minor emissions of sulfur and water vapor.
The volcano was conquered in 1937 by Polish climbers Justin Wojżnys and Jan Szczepanski. On the way to the top, researchers discovered traces of Inca sacrificial altars. Apparently, the Ojos del Salado volcano was revered by the Indians as a sacred mountain. On April 21, 2007, Chilean athlete Gonzalo Bravo managed to ride a modified Suzuki Samurai ( Suzuki S.J.
) climb the slope of Ojos del Salado to a height of 6,688 meters, thus setting a world record for climbing for cars.
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Science and technology
Excerpt describing Ojos del SaladoFor those people who are accustomed to thinking that plans for wars and battles are drawn up by commanders in the same way as each of us, sitting in his office over a map, makes considerations about how and how he would manage such and such a battle, questions arise as to why Kutuzov didn’t do this and that when retreating, why he didn’t take up a position before Fili, why he didn’t immediately retreat to the Kaluga road, left Moscow, etc. People who are used to thinking like that forget or don’t know those inevitable conditions in which the activities of every commander in chief always take place. The activity of a commander does not have the slightest resemblance to the activity that we imagine, sitting freely in an office, analyzing some campaign on the map with a known number of troops, on both sides, and in a certain area, and starting our considerations with what some famous moment. The commander-in-chief is never in those conditions of the beginning of some event in which we always consider the event. The commander-in-chief is always in the middle of a moving series of events, and in such a way that he is never, at any moment, able to think through the full significance of the event taking place. An event is imperceptibly, moment by moment, cut into its meaning, and at every moment of this sequential, continuous cutting of the event, the commander-in-chief is in the center of a complex game, intrigue, worries, dependence, power, projects, advice, threats, deceptions, is constantly in the need to respond to the countless number of questions proposed to him, always contradicting one another.
Military scientists tell us very seriously that Kutuzov, much earlier than Filey, should have moved troops to the Kaluga road, that someone even proposed such a project. But the commander-in-chief, especially in difficult times, faces not one project, but always dozens at the same time. And each of these projects, based on strategy and tactics, contradicts one another. The commander-in-chief's job, it would seem, is only to choose one of these projects. But he cannot do this either. Events and time do not wait. He is offered, let’s say, on the 28th to go to the Kaluga road, but at this time Miloradovich’s adjutant jumps up and asks whether to start business with the French now or retreat. He needs to give orders now, this very minute. And the order to retreat takes us off the turn onto the Kaluga road. And following the adjutant, the quartermaster asks where to take the provisions, and the head of the hospitals asks where to take the wounded; and a courier from St. Petersburg brings a letter from the sovereign, not allowing the possibility of leaving Moscow, and the rival of the commander-in-chief, the one who undermines him (there are always such, and not one, but several), offers new project, diametrically opposed to the plan for access to the Kaluga road; and the forces of the commander-in-chief himself require sleep and reinforcement; and the venerable general, bypassed by a reward, comes to complain, and the inhabitants beg for protection; the officer sent to inspect the area arrives and reports the exact opposite of what the officer sent before him said; and the spy, the prisoner and the general doing reconnaissance - all describe the position of the enemy army differently. People who are accustomed to not understanding or forgetting these necessary conditions for the activity of any commander-in-chief present to us, for example, the situation of the troops in Fili and at the same time assume that the commander-in-chief could, on September 1, completely freely resolve the issue of abandoning or defending Moscow, whereas in the situation of the Russian army five miles from Moscow this question could not have arisen. When was this issue resolved? And near Drissa, and near Smolensk, and most noticeably on the 24th near Shevardin, and on the 26th near Borodin, and on every day, hour, and minute of the retreat from Borodino to Fili.
