A Buddhist monastery will be demolished in the Urals. Climbing to the Buddhist monastery of Shad Tchup Ling in the Urals
Eight kilometers from the city of Kachkanar, in the middle of the Sverdlovsk region, at an altitude of 885 meters, stands the Shad Tchup Ling monastery. A Buddhist monastery in the Urals is already unusual in itself. But no less “attraction” than the monastery itself is its 54-year-old founder Mikhail Sannikov.
It took a long time for a man to discover Zen. A hereditary military man (his father and grandfather were intelligence officers), he graduated from the KGB school and went to Afghanistan in 1981. He rose to the rank of commander of a sabotage and reconnaissance group. His colleagues still remember his accuracy. The main task of their detachment was to destroy caravans with weapons that were going to the Mujahideen from Pakistan. Sniper rifle Sannikova did not know a single mistake. And then there was a breakdown. Mikhail aimed his sight at the horse, loaded with weapons. Nothing new. He did this for many years. All you had to do was pull the trigger and shoot the horse in the head. But then Sannikov saw through his sight how the animal was crying. Tears flowed from the horse's eyes. And he couldn't shoot. For failing to carry out orders, Mikhail was demoted. And he was only happy about it. From one old Afghani, a military man who had done something wrong learned about Buddhism, about self-restraint, about achieving nirvana, and also about the fact that they themselves are the cause of people’s suffering. And, having returned to his homeland, he did not go home at all, but to Buryatia - to the largest domestic Buddhist center. After 7 years of practice, Sannikov received the name Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit. And then the mentors sent the former military man to build a new monastery.
Sannikov's followers claim that the place (the top of Mount Kachkanar) was seen by teachers during meditation. But there is a much more rational version: in the west of Russia there was already one Buddhist temple- in St. Petersburg, in the east there are temples of Buddhist Buryatia, but in the middle, in the Urals, it is empty. This is how the idea of building a monastery on one of the highest points arose Ural mountains.
When Lama Dokshit first climbed to the top in 1995, there was nothing here. Only stones,” the novices say with a breath. “The first thing he did was build a hut here.” One! Periodically he went down to the city to earn money for food. Rumors about the lama quickly spread throughout the surrounding area. And soon he had assistants...
Now Shad Tchup Ling is no longer just a hut, but an entire residential complex. There is a bathhouse, a dining room, and even a library.
KP journalists went to the monastery at the end of December. We then collected information for the New Year's guide to the most interesting places Sverdlovsk region. Of course, there was also a place in it for a Buddhist monastery.
We then brought with us a pineapple and a bag of sweets.
It would be better if they brought plastic fittings,” the lama tsked while accepting the gifts. - We are now building an airship. It would be useful for our hull.
- And where will you fly on it?– we asked.
Yes, wherever we want! - Mikhail answered, sipping tea from a mug.
- Have you finished building the monastery yet?
We practically never started. Work for another 279 years. But next summer we will at least put up a statue of Buddha.
Now, apparently, these plans will not come true. Talk that the monastery stands illegally and needs to be demolished has been circulating in the Sverdlovsk region for several years now. But no one actually took it seriously. Even Sannikov himself. When we asked in December if he was afraid that his monastery would be demolished by excavators, Dokshit only smiled skeptically:
There is a crisis in the country now. Nobody cares about us.
But the business turned out to be too profitable to forget about it, even during a crisis.
« Before March 1, 2016, the demolition of the Buddhist monastery “Shad Tchup Ling” must take place in the city of Kachkanar, - stated in the resolution of the bailiffs of the Federal Bailiff Service of Russia in the Sverdlovsk region . – Mikhail S., who lives in this monastery, is obliged to release land plot from buildings that are intended for religious ceremonies. The reason for the eviction of Buddhists is the illegal occupation of territory that is federally owned; in addition, this land is located in the development of the Kachkanar iron ore deposit itself. The city court made this decision in favor of the Forestry Department in the summer of the year before last. Due to the fact that Mikhail S. repeatedly failed to comply with the requirements of executive documents, he was brought to administrative responsibility under Part 1 of Art. 17.15 Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation and Part 2 of Art. 17.15 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation (for repeated failure to comply with the requirements of enforcement documents of a non-property nature). Also, in relation to Mikhail S., a decision was made on a temporary restriction on travel outside the Russian Federation».
At the same time, the bailiffs clarify that no one is going to kick the monks out into the street.
An operational meeting was held at the Administration of the Kachkanar City District on the issues of Mikhail S.’s fulfillment of the requirements for moving the monastery to Mount Mokhnatka. Mikhail S. was present at the meeting, where he was again presented with a demand for execution of the court decision before March 1, 2016, as stated by the Federal Bailiff Service of Russia for the Sverdlovsk region.
The monastery, in turn, declares that it will not be able to move by the beginning of spring.
We believe that the decision to demolish it is illegal,” says novice Anna Kolosova. – Indeed, we had an agreement with the city authorities that the monastery would be moved to Mount Mokhnatka. To do this, the Evraz metallurgical plant had to develop a place on the mountain and an approach route to it. But these conditions were not met. We're ready to move. But only when all obligations are fulfilled. In the meantime, naturally, we will protect our monastery from demolition.
Photo gallery from the Buddhist monastery "Shad Tchup Ling"
Mount Kachkanar located near the city of the same name in the Sverdlovsk region, approximately 260 kilometers from Yekaterinburg.
Kachkanar is one of the most high mountains Middle Urals, reaching a height of 887.6 meters above sea level. It is composed of gabbro, peridotite and pyroxenite rocks.
Toponymists believe that the name of the mountain comes from the Turkic words “kachka” - bald and “nar” - camel.
Near the mountain lies the border of two parts of the world - Europe and Asia, as well as two regions - the Sverdlovsk region and Perm region. Near the mountain there were gold and platinum mines.
The first scientific description of Mount Kachkanar was made by a traveler in the Urals in 1770 Academician P.S. Pallas in the book “Travel through different provinces of the Russian Empire” (1786). The Voguls showed Pallas two mines where magnetic iron ore had previously been mined.
In the 1860s, the Kachkanar massif was studied by the famous geologist A.P. Karpinsky, who later headed the Academy of Sciences.
In 1957, construction began at the foot of the mountain Kachkanarsky mining and processing plant, soon one of the youngest cities in the Sverdlovsk region grew up here - city of Kachkanar.
Currently, the development of titanomagnetite ores of Mount Kachkanar continues, existing huge quarries are being expanded, and new ones are being planned.
Mount Kachkanar has two peaks - northern and southern. They are called the "Northern Horn" and the "Noon Horn" respectively. Each of them is beautiful in its own way, each offering a magnificent view (the city of Kachkanar is visible only from the southern peak).
At the top of the mountain there are many strangely shaped rock remains. Many of them have their own names. The most famous remnant is camel rock.
In 1995, on the top of Mount Kachkanar, Buddhist monastery"Shad Tchup Ling"(translated from Tibetan - Place of practice and implementation). Its founder is Mikhail Sannikov. The monastery has long become the main attraction of Kachkanar. Many tourists come to visit the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals; the inhabitants of the monastery do not refuse anyone. There are two stupas built in the monastery, which are considered shrines.
However, very soon the monastery, built over many years by the hands of several enthusiasts, may be wiped off the face of the earth. EVRAZ, which owns the Kachkanarsky Vanadium Mining and Processing Plant, demands the demolition of “unauthorized buildings.” Enterprises and authorities at all levels are on the side.
Thus, instead of a monastery, another quarry should be formed in this picturesque place by 2015... At the same time, by destroying the only local attractions (the mountain and the monastery), the authorities of Kachkanar are talking about grandiose plans for the development of tourism.
In general, have time to visit Mount Kachkanar and the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals before it’s too late!..
How to get to Mount Kachkanar
1. Exit to the foot of Mount Kachkanar
From the administrative square of Kachkanar (see photo), onto Krylova Street (north) towards the bus station (200 m).
Kachkanar city administration building
Further along Krylova to the fork of the Western Quarry - the village of Valerianovsk. We are heading towards the Western Quarry. We pass the peninsula with the dispensary" Cape Verde" (on the left) and we go out to the dam. On the right Railway, on the left is a bay with a tower rising from the water. We pass the dam and see a parking lot on the left. At this point, we consider the first stage to be completed.
2. We go to the southern peak
The southern peak of Mount Kachkanar (yes, the mountain has two high points, and the highest, northern one, is not visible from the city), although it is not the highest point, it is worth visiting. The path there is not as well-trodden by tourists as to the northern peak. The view of the city of Kachkanar is only possible from the southern heights. The summit rocks are compactly located. The path is about 6 kilometers with a constant uphill climb. The slope is small, so it can be overcome in one transition.
If you have a car, you will have to leave it on the site. On the left we find a path running along the shore and move along it. You need to walk to the old ski slope (600 m). You can walk along the shore, but it’s better to go uphill, so that later you’ll have to crawl up the clearing less often. The climb is steep. Having climbed to the very top, we follow the road to the left.
View from the old ski slope
After 100 meters we go out onto the road and go right, after 100 meters we turn left. We walk along the forest road without turning anywhere. At first unimportant, the road gradually widens and becomes better. After about 3.5 kilometers, you must not miss the path to the top. The road at this point goes to the right, and the path goes straight. The beginning of the path (N 58g 44m 58s; B 59g 24m 52s) is usually marked with ribbons on the trees. We go onto the path and after about 15-20 minutes we come out to the rock massifs. It’s better to remember or mark the exit of the path so that when you go back you don’t get lost in the surrounding area.
The rocks of the southern peak used to have slabs with names. Now all that remains of the slabs are holes in the stone.
Views from the southern summit
3. We go to the mountain lake
Before the northern peak, on the mountain there is lake. Apparently they took samples of ore and dug a pit, which was subsequently filled with water. You can stop near the lake for a rest or overnight. There is a barbecue and a gazebo.
Lake on the site of a former mine
To the lake itself there is a road, but you can drive by car only with passes, since the road passes through the territory of the Kachkanarsky GOK.
From the site (see point 1) we move further along the road. After about 2 kilometers there will be a security post at the Kachkanarsky GOK. If you are driving, feel free to leave the car in front of the post. Then we go on foot. We reach the buildings and follow the road to the left. After 300 meters, on the left, there will be a checkpoint ski slope(see photo), but we go straight with a slight deviation to the right.
Passage to the ski slope
Almost immediately there will be a wide road to the right, but we don’t need to go there, we go straight up the mountain with a slight slope. After turning left the road will go around Western Quarry. There will be many paths to the right. You can follow them to the edge of the pit and watch the quarry at work.
Western Quarry
I’ll say right away that the Western Quarry has Observation deck which will be on our way. Now we have reached the turn of the road to the left (about 1 kilometer away), we go there. But, if you go straight a little, on the right there will be an observation deck of the Western Quarry at the highest point.
Observation deck of the Western Quarry
But let's get back on the road. The distance from the observation deck to the lake is approximately 4 kilometers.
Road
A little before reaching the lake, the path to the Buddhist monastery begins.
The beginning of the path to the Buddhist monastery
4. We go from the mountain lake to the Camel rock and to the top of Mount Kachkanar
To climb the mountain, you need to go around the lake (preferably on the left), follow the path to a clearing and start climbing. After about 700-800 meters, rock outcrops will begin and a platform with a gazebo will appear. From the site you need to turn onto the left path. Let me make a reservation right away that if you go to the right, the path will lead straight to the Buddhist monastery. But we are going to the Camel, and I’ll tell you about the monastery further. Passing through rocky rubble Camel rock appears in all its glory.
Rock "Camel"
After looking at the panorama and climbing the rock, we go further to the peak, which is already visible from the Camel.
View from "Camel"
The path to the top begins immediately behind the Camel. After walking for 10-15 minutes we approach the top of Mount Kachkanar from which a panorama opens to the north. The most high point marked by a concrete structure with a pipe. Directly below the mountain is the village of Kosya, a little further from Pokap, in the northeast you can see the buildings of the monastery.
The top of Mount Kachkanar
View from the top of the villages of Kosya and Pokap
View of the monastery buildings from the top of Mount Kachkanar
Gagarin's Rock
5. We go from the mountain lake to the Shad Tchup Ling monastery
As I already mentioned, you can also get to the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery through the road leading to the top. But you need to understand that the monastery is not just a landmark and just coming to stare there is not welcome. If you want to be given attention and given a tour, and also treated to local tea, then it is better to plan such an event. It is not customary to come to the monastery empty-handed. Food is welcome: sugar, tea, cookies, cereals, etc. Also, near the beginning of the path to the monastery there are building materials, and if you take bricks, boards, or whatever else is there, it will be good.
So, the beginning of the path to the Shad Tchup Ling monastery is not far from the lake on the way from Kachkanar. There is no way you can miss this place. You can see piles of building materials, old cars, a sign reminding “Friend. When you go to the monastery, take some bricks, don’t allow empty runs,” as well as a sign for tourists indicating that it is not at all necessary to go through the monastery to the Camel.
After about a kilometer, a large clearing with a cable crossing will appear, along which construction materials are dragged into the monastery.
Glade with cable crossing
Monastery Notice Board
The monastery has two stupas, living quarters, a bathhouse, a guest house, and a farmstead. Constant construction is underway.
M.V. Malakhov wrote about Kachkanar in the 19th century:
“I climbed Kachkanar from the east, from where access is considered less convenient than from the west. Having passed Mount Elovaya, which is the eastern spur of Kachkanar and covered with fragments of rocks very similar to Kachkanar in its general character and content of magnetic iron ore, we began to climb Kachkanar The entire rise is covered with boulders; the bulk of them consists of grains of augite with veins of magnetic iron ore. We observed its first significant occurrence on the large terrace of the Isovsky slope of the mountain in typical coarse-grained augite rock. The co-occurrence of iron and this rock here is apparently not accidental. , which is confirmed by further observations. Along the entire ascent to the northern peak from this occurrence, magnetic iron ore was encountered at every step, but only in small veins, as well as on the northernmost peak. Heading from here along the slope of the Kachkanar peak, one has to descend into the dividing basin. both peaks. Further, the signs of magnetic iron ore disappear and sharply appear again in the vast placer of magnetic iron ore located at the base of Kachkanar."
A trip to Kachkanar can be combined with a visit to Mount Kolpaki.
Monastery on Mount Kachkanar
Welcome to Mount Kachkanar!
© Alexander PETROV (route description, photo),
Kachkanar, 2011
© Pavel Raspopov (place description)
website
Buddhist temple on Mount Kachkanar
We went on this trip in August 2011. I accidentally saw it on the Internet winter photo Buddhist Stupa of Awakening and said: “I want to go there.” We, of course, are not Buddhists and we went not even out of idle curiosity, but for the purpose of learning: what kind of monastery is in the mountains and how can one live there... And the mountain, they say, is beautiful, but you can’t climb it.
When entering the city, we understand that it is located on a mountain, because it was visible from the road beautiful distances. As we later learned, it is called Mount Dolgaya. Directly from the city you can see Mount Kachkanar in all its beauty and grandeur, but only one of its peaks.
Mount Kachkanar - highest peak Middle Urals, its height is 887.6 m. Once upon a time it was a sacred place for the Mansi pagan population. With the advent of Buddhism in the Mongol-Oirat steppes, bloodless sacrifices and gifts of living animals began to be made to the rulers of the mountains. A family that migrated to a new place had to make an offering to the spirit of the area on the highest hill or mountain. Not only the Mansi praised Mount Kachkanar, but the Kalmyks also revered it to provide them with support in risky activities. Between the city and Mount Kachkanar flows the Vyya River, turned by a dam into the Nizhnevyskoe reservoir.
“Kachkanar Sea” is also popularly called the Nizhnevyskoye Reservoir. In the interfluve of the Is and Vyya rivers, a dam was built on the Vyya River and the Kachkanarsky pond was dug. It is taken from one half of the reservoir drinking water for the city, on the other half there is a beach, a boat station, and fishing in the pond. Several thousand juvenile carp, silver carp and grass carp were released into the reservoir. By south coast The pond in its upper part is the border of the Sverdlovsk and Perm regions. We were lucky with a place to spend the night on the shore of the reservoir and we watched a beautiful sunset all evening.
And at night the moon shone in full force. We even woke up to see a lunar path “running” right towards our tent from the moon across the entire lake. But, unfortunately, I didn’t want to get up and take a picture of her; sleep took its toll.
Waking up at 8 o'clock in the morning, having breakfast and a swim, we set off further on the road - up the mountain to look for the monastery. We arrived at the Western Quarry barrier, parked the car (there are a lot of them there), loaded ourselves with backpacks and set off. At first the road is very dusty because MAZs and other equipment are driving from the quarry to the quarry. Walk along it for only 500 meters. Then there will be a road a little to the left to the ski slope, but you don’t need to go to it. But the next turn to the left leads to the monastery and Mount Camel. Then you need to go all the time to the left, do not turn right, except to look at the quarry itself from the observation deck. After about 2 km there will be a turn to the right, where you can see the Western Quarry of the Vysokogorsky Mining and Processing Plant.
The quarry, of course, is impressive, it’s interesting to watch how everything is bustling far below, but the dust made it difficult to see everything that could be seen far in the distance.
A detailed study of the Kachkanar ore-bearing massif began in the 30-40s. In 1931, it was established that it consists of two deposits - Gusevogorskoye and Kachkanarskoye. On June 10, 1950, a resolution was adopted on the construction of the country's largest mining and processing plant (GOK) at the foot of Mount Kachkanar with a processing capacity of 33 million tons of raw iron ore per year.
On May 27, 1957, the first detachment of daredevils came to Mount Dolgaya. The mining and processing plant's products go to the Nizhny Tagil Metallurgical Plant, Chelyabinsk and Chusovskoy Metallurgical Plants. We watched how others were working and returned to the causeway to continue climbing. Then walk about 4 km to a fork where the trees are marked with white ribbons, where the building materials are, where the monastery equipment is, etc.
Straight ahead - the road to " mountain lake", about three hundred meters and on the right there will be a small pond, which used to be a quarry. But we didn't go there. And to the right is the path leading to the monastery. The climb to the monastery is about 1 km. If you take some building materials with you and bring them to the monastery, you will be given tea as a sign of gratitude. Such assistance is entrance ticket to the territory of the monastery. Along the path made of stone, boards, and gratings we go out to the “Stupa of Awakening.”
The ascent to the visible building of the monastery is a small kurumnik - a road made of stones.
In front of this kurumnik there is a fairly large clearing where you can take a break.
Visibility in the distance is still poor due to quarrying.
We rise to the Stupa of Awakening.
At the entrance there are the rules of the monastery, a gong, guards, local wildlife and quite a lot of interesting things. You won’t notice everything right away; for example, we looked at everything again on the way back...
And then a monk meets us and invites us to drink tea. Then they tell you how to get to Camel Mountain and the monument to Yuri Gagarin! Yes, there is such a thing!!!
Walk through the territory of the monastery to the Camel rock for about 200 m. It is beautiful, majestic and huge. This is it from afar, from the main peak, where we will go next.
But what is also unforgettable is what can be seen from the camel’s humps! This is exactly the peak of the mountain that was visible from the city. That is, if you reach it, you can see both the pond and the city.
This is the same quarry that we looked at on the way to the monastery.
And this is all that is around!
To go from Camel to the main peak of Kachkanar, you need to find a path that is trodden on the right at its base. Along it to main peak The walk to the Middle Urals takes 15-20 minutes. From Mount Camel it can be seen exactly in the middle with a metal spire at the very top.
And what views it offers! At the foot of this side of the mountain is the village of Kosya.
The monastery itself is visible.
From the main peak there is a well-trodden path to the top of the mountain closest to the city. As we were told, the walk takes about 1 hour. It's a pity, but we didn't have enough time to get there, so we went back to the monastery for a tour of its territory. While we walked, we tried to photograph everything that came our way.
And now about the territory... The Shad Tchup Ling monastery is being built in the rocks on the northeastern slope of Mount Kachkanar at an altitude of 843 meters above sea level. Construction is carried out according to the ancient Tibetan and Mongolian canons of monastic architecture, which allows preserving the ecosystem of the area and harmoniously fitting the complex of buildings into the picturesque landscape of Mount Kachkanar. The main function of the monastery is to organize and provide the Buddhist practical process: conducting rituals, services, traditional festive events, individual and collective practices
One of the main goals of the construction of the monastery complex is the preservation of Buddhist teachings and, in particular, the unique system of self-knowledge and self-improvement, which is Tantric Buddhism. One of the key buildings of the monastery is the stupa. Stupa (chorten, suburgan) is one of the important attributes of Buddhism. It is a monument to the enlightened mind of the Buddha, and is also a vertical model of the universe. It is installed in certain places, harmonizing and structuring the space around itself. This is a pasture.
Here is the entrance to the courtyard.
Apparently the local power plant...
Inside the buildings...
Mountain herbs.
There is even a bathhouse in the monastery, right on the mountain. Rope crossing for lifting weights.
Library.
1st floor – library, 2nd floor – living rooms.
Next to the library on the 1st floor there is a fireplace (lined with stone). The tea house is painted green, and above it is a children's room.
Plan of the monastery in the future.
ATTENTION!!! From the trip, we do not advertise to the monks, we do not encourage people to leave home to live in this monastery, and we also do not spread this religion. There were no calls from the monks to us to stay and accept their teachings, but the stunning beauty around us, the silence and tranquility are very conducive to well... staying at least a little... making us want to get away from the bustle of the city... Therefore, I will give the biography of the monk in a very brief summary with only educational information purpose.
Biography of Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshita
Tendzin Dokshit (in the world Mikhail Vasilievich Sannikov) was born on November 30, 1961 in Votkinsk, Udmurt Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, into a family of hereditary military men. In 1979 he was admitted to the Perm Agricultural Institute. Completed the courses civil aviation. In May 1980 he was drafted into the ranks of the USSR Armed Forces.
In February 1981 he was sent under a contract to Afghanistan. One of the constant main tasks of his group in Afghanistan was the destruction of caravans with weapons going to the Mujahideen from Pakistan. In 1987 he retired with the rank of captain. For several months he worked in the morgue of the Leninsky district of Perm as an orderly and as an assistant to a pathologist.
He studied at the Nizhny Tagil Art School. From my former mentor in Japanese sword fighting (Kendo), I learned about the existence of a Buddhist tradition in Buryatia. In 1989, he entered the Ivolginsky datsan to study, where he was assigned to a group specializing in Buddhist Tantra, which was selected by Lama Pema Jang (Darma-Dodi Zhalsaraev), and took monastic vows under the name Tenzin Dokshit.
In 1991-1993 lived in the city of Gusinoozersk, then in Tanchin-datsan Dashi Gandan Darzhaling (village of Gusinoye Ozero), where he practiced performing rituals. In the summer of 1993, he traveled to Mongolia, where he received initiation into Yamantaka tantra from Lama Sanzhe-la in a retreat near the city of Orkhontuul (Selenga aimag). In December 1994 he received lama initiation. In the winter of 1995, his Root Teacher, Pema Jang, gave him an order to build a Buddhist datsan in Russia, indicating the place of construction - the top of Mount Kachkanar ( Sverdlovsk region).
The temple was named "Shadtchupling" (in Tibetan pronunciation "Sheddubling", Tib. bshad sgrub gling; "Place of study and implementation"). On May 16, 1995, work began on the construction of a monastery at the indicated location. The Shadchupling Temple is being built by Tenzin Dokshit and a small community of people who took initial monastic vows from him. Materially, the construction is provided by the community of his lay disciples living in the Middle Urals.
In 2001, in Kachkanar, students of Tenzin Dokshita registered a local religious organization as part of the “Russian Association of the Diamond Way of the Karma Kagyu School”. The issue of direct registration of the monastery as a reclusive center of the “Association” was also considered. The orientation of the “Association” is predominantly secular, non-monastic Buddhism.
How to get there by car:
along the Ekaterinburg - Kachkanar highway. In Kachkanar by main road, at the second traffic light (the stop complex “Ploshchad” will be on the right at the traffic light) turn left onto the street. Krylova. This is the road towards Valerianovsk. Drive to the large sign “Western Quarry”, turn left along it and drive to the barrier before entering the quarry territory. Leave the car at the barrier and walk along the paved road straight along the railway tracks along which ore is transported from the quarry on turntables.
Coordinates: 58°46′37″ n. w. / 59°23′13″ E. d.58.77694° N. w. 59.38694° E. d. / 58.77694; 59.38694(G) (I)
Story
Founding of the monastery Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit, aka Mikhail Sannikov, became acquainted with Buddhism in the late 1980s in Afghanistan, where he, a career officer and special forces commander, saw mountain passes
On May 15, 1995, Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit began construction of a Buddhist monastery on Mount Kachkanar. His teacher showed him the place for it.
Over the course of 20 years, Shad Tchup Ling has become one of the largest centers for the study of Buddhism in Russia and simply a tourist attraction that attracts thousands of tourists.
Court for territory
Community members tried many times to legalize the buildings, but the rights to the land were claimed by the mining and processing plant, whose quarries are located nearby, and the forestry department.
On February 9, information appeared on the website of the Office of the Federal Bailiff Service for the Sverdlovsk Region about the upcoming demolition of a “Buddhist monastery” on Mount Kachkanar. The life’s work and the fruits of the incredible perseverance of Mikhail Sannikov and the hundreds of people who helped him during these years may go to waste, and the “fascinating Buddhist stupas among the Ural mountains” may disappear.
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Excerpt characterizing Shad Tchup Ling
- Karagin, Julie and Boris are with them. The bride and groom are now visible. – Drubetskoy proposed!“Why, I found out today,” said Shinshin, who was entering the Rostovs’ box.
Natasha looked in the direction in which her father was looking and saw Julie, who, with pearls on her thick red neck (Natasha knew, sprinkled with powder), was sitting with a happy look, next to her mother.
Behind them, Boris’s smoothly combed, beautiful head could be seen with a smile, his ear tilted towards Julie’s mouth. He looked at the Rostovs from under his brows and, smiling, said something to his bride.
“They talk about us, about me and him!” thought Natasha. “And he truly calms his bride’s jealousy of me: there is no need to worry! If only they knew how much I don’t care about any of them.”
Anna Mikhailovna sat behind her in a green current, with a devoted will of God and a happy, festive face. In their box there was that atmosphere - the bride and groom that Natasha knew and loved so much. She turned away and suddenly everything that was humiliating in her morning visit came back to her.
“What right does he have not to want to accept me into his kinship? Oh, it’s better not to think about it, not to think about it until he arrives!” She said to herself and began to look around at the familiar and unfamiliar faces in the stalls. In front of the stalls, in the very middle, leaning his back to the ramp, stood Dolokhov with a huge, combed-up shock of curly hair, in a Persian suit. He stood in full view of the theater, knowing that he was attracting the attention of the entire audience, as freely as if he were standing in his room. The most brilliant youth of Moscow stood crowded around him, and he apparently took precedence among them.
Count Ilya Andreich, laughing, nudged the blushing Sonya, pointing her to her former admirer.
- Did you recognize it? - he asked. “And where did he come from,” the count turned to Shinshin, “after all, he disappeared somewhere?”
“Disappeared,” answered Shinshin. - He was in the Caucasus, and there he escaped, and, they say, he was a minister for some sovereign prince in Persia, he killed the Shah’s brother there: well, everyone is going crazy and the Moscow ladies are going crazy! Dolochoff le Persan, [The Persian Dolokhov,] and that’s it. Now we have no word without Dolokhov: they swear by him, they call him like a sterlet,” said Shinshin. - Dolokhov, and Anatol Kuragin - they drove all our ladies crazy.
A tall, beautiful lady with a huge braid and very bare, white, full shoulders and neck, on which there was a double string of large pearls, entered the adjacent benoir, and sat down for a long time, making a noise with her thick silk dress.
Natasha involuntarily looked at this neck, shoulders, pearls, hairstyle and admired the beauty of the shoulders and pearls. While Natasha was peering at her for the second time, the lady looked back and, meeting her eyes with Count Ilya Andreich, nodded her head and smiled at him. It was Countess Bezukhova, Pierre's wife. Ilya Andreich, who knew everyone in the world, leaned over and spoke to her.
- How long have you been here, Countess? - he spoke. “I’ll come, I’ll come, I’ll kiss your hand.” But I came here on business and brought my girls with me. They say Semenova’s performance is incomparable,” said Ilya Andreich. – Count Pyotr Kirillovich never forgot us. He is here?
“Yes, he wanted to come in,” Helen said and looked at Natasha carefully.
Count Ilya Andreich again sat down in his place.
- She’s good, isn’t she? – he said in a whisper to Natasha.
- Miracle! - said Natasha, - you can fall in love! At this time, the last chords of the overture sounded and the conductor’s baton began to tap. In the stalls, the belated men filed into their seats and the curtain rose.
As soon as the curtain rose, everything in the boxes and stalls fell silent, and all the men, old and young, in uniforms and tails, all the women wearing precious stones on their naked bodies, turned all their attention to the stage with greedy curiosity. Natasha also began to look.
On the stage there were even boards in the middle, painted paintings depicting trees stood on the sides, and a canvas on boards was stretched behind. In the middle of the stage sat girls in red bodices and white skirts. One, very fat, in a white silk dress, sat separately on a low bench, to which green cardboard was glued to the back. They were all singing something. When they finished their song, the girl in white walked up to the prompter’s booth, and a man in tight-fitting silk trousers on thick legs, with a feather and a dagger, approached her and began to sing and spread his arms.
The man in tight trousers sang alone, then she sang. Then both fell silent, the music began to play, and the man began to finger the hand of the girl in a white dress, apparently again waiting for the beat to begin his part with her. They sang together, and everyone in the theater began to clap and shout, and the man and woman on stage, who were portraying lovers, began to bow, smiling and spreading their arms.
Every morning we are born again. And what we do today will be of greatest importance.
Siddhartha Gautama
I continue the story about interesting people. Yes, the story will mainly be about the only mountain Buddhist monastery in Russia, but the monastery is the work of a specific person.
So, spring, Sverdlovsk region, Kachkanar, the mountain of the same name.
01.
I found information about the monastery by chance while preparing spring trip to the Urals. Sensible reports about the visit can be counted on one hand, mostly some articles about litigation with the Kachkanarsky GOK and rumors about imminent demolition. So I had to take my hands in my hands and go before it was too late.
02.
Mount Kachkanar stands next to the city of the same name, or rather, the city is located at the foot of the mountain. The mountain is so-so, far from Elbrus, only 887.6 m. This is the height we had to go to.
03.
The most difficult part of the entire ascent was to pass the GOK entrance. The mountain turned out to be on the territory of the enterprise. I asked the security guard if it was possible to go up the mountain, she replied that it was possible, but we had to get approval from the department, it was in the city, but they weren’t working today (Saturday), and it wasn’t a quick task. But since we came from afar, she simply had to tell us that their work is difficult, the territory is huge and it is simply impossible to keep track of everything. Here she sees it at the barrier, but over there, behind the bushes three meters away, she no longer sees it. They say there is a path there, and further along the road, the main thing is not to get under the BelAZ. After thanking the guard and loudly expressing our regret about the inaccessibility of the monastery due to bureaucratic delays, we went behind the bushes.
04.
Well, then we go up the mountain along an excellent road. Along the way you can stop at steam observation platforms, even climb onto lighting towers. The quarry is active, so there is something to look at and you need to look both ways.
05.
From the second lookout there is a straight line going uphill old road, we like it. As you climb, you literally cross several natural zones in just an hour. You should take your children here on excursions; rarely in such accessibility can you so clearly show changes in nature.
06.
And eventually you come out into a small clearing. If you go straight, you will get to the Camel rock and an alpine lake.
07.
The lake is so-so. It will probably be more fun in the summer, but in May there was still ice on it. Fishermen still sit on the luda of this thickness in the spring
08.
And to the right there begin simply fantastic (for the end of spring) deposits of snow, along which a chain of old tracks can be seen. Let's follow them. Step to the side and you fall almost to your waist.
09.
There is a thick layer of snow underfoot, and streams gurgle under the snow. You can hear them perfectly and you don’t want to fall into them at all. A few hundred meters later, right in the forest, there is a large stack of boards and a sign in the style of “Traveler, throw away your things, leave your fatigue and help build the monastery.” We helped, yes.
10.
The last push along the kurumnik, we jump over the slippery stones and behold, the monastery. To be honest, there were fears of not being able to catch him there.
11.
The monastery is being built, from completely finished buildings, perhaps only the stupa of the Awakening. Through the gates, drums and information board we finally get inside.
12.
We are clearly welcome
13.
No, actually we are glad. A man came out hearing the dogs barking and led us inside to dry off after swimming in the snow and drink tea. “Drinking tea” is perhaps the most frequently used phrase at the top.
14.
This concept does not include tea drinking itself, although of course there will certainly be one, but rather conversations and gatherings. This is the eastern version, this is Asia.
“Where are you from? And then where can I see the photos? On LJ? Is he still alive?!”
Soon they had a logbook shadtchupling
15.
Having warmed up, we go out to explore. This is a stunningly beautiful place! I love mountains, even small ones. There is something primal in them, revealing the subconscious in a person.
16.
A long time ago, the Mansi lived on these lands. No one lived on the mountain itself, but it was considered a place of power and was used to perform religious rituals.
17.
When the Russians came to these places, they became interested in the local deposits. According to rumors, Demidov himself wanted to buy the entire mountain from the Mansi, but something didn’t work out between them.
18.
Then platinum fever passed through these places, but quickly ended. The mining and processing plant was founded in the late 50s of the last century, at the same time the city of Kachkanar was founded on the southern slope of the mountain.
20.
The idea of building a monastery came to its creator in 1995. The creator was Mikhail Vasilievich Sannikov, a very interesting person. He was born into a military family, and for several years he commanded a sabotage and reconnaissance group in Afghanistan.
21.
He was demobilized from the army due to disability with the rank of captain, worked as a nurse in a morgue, as a cook in the river fleet, and graduated from the Nizhny Tagil Art School as an external student.
22.
In the late 80s, at the age of 27, Mikhail decides to go to study at the Ivolginsky datsan. He entered and took the monastic name Tenzin Dokshit. I went to Mongolia and after finishing my studies I wanted to move there to live. But fate decreed otherwise.
23.
To be completely precise, his teacher Pema Jang ordered otherwise. The young Lama Dokshit was given the order to build a Buddhist datsan in the Urals. The logic is simple: in the east there are Buryat churches, in the west St. Petersburg Gunzechoiney, in the south datsans of Kalmykia, and in the middle it is empty. There are no Buddhist temples in the Urals. And in order to stand out completely, the temple must stand on the top of a mountain.
24.
We chose Kachkanar, a mountain on the border of Europe and Asia. As I already said, this place has long been known as a place of power. And the name of the monastery was given to Shad Tchup Ling - “place of practice and implementation” (or “Place of study and implementation”, as you prefer). Construction began on May 15, 1995, and during the first years Tenzin Dokshit built it alone.
25.
The first buildings were almost entirely wooden, and a fire that happened in 1998 destroyed everything that had been rebuilt. The Lama and his few disciples had to start all over again.
26.
After a walk along the mountain we drink tea again.
27.
Mikhail is an excellent conversationalist with a unique sense of humor. In general, if you communicated with a Buddhist who was a military man, a pathologist and a river worker, and even with a good education and encyclopedic knowledge in various fields, then you will understand me
For some reason I kept remembering “The Golden Calf”
“Have you read about the disarmament conference? - one pique vest addressed another pique vest. – Speech by Count Bernstorff.
– Bernstorff is the head! - the asked vest answered in such a tone as if he was convinced of this on the basis of his long-term acquaintance with the count. -Have you read the speech Snowden made at a meeting of voters in Birmingham, that stronghold of conservatives?
- Well, what can we talk about... Snowden is a head! Listen, Valiadis,” he addressed the third old man in Panama. – What can you say about Snowden?
“I’ll tell you frankly,” Panama answered, “Don’t put your finger in Snowden’s mouth.” I personally wouldn't put my finger on it.
And, not at all embarrassed by the fact that Snowden would never have allowed Valiadis to put his finger in his mouth, the old man continued:
- But no matter what you say, I’ll tell you frankly - Chamberlain is still a head too.
Pique vests raised the shoulders. They did not deny that Chamberlain was also a head. But most of all, Briand consoled them.
- Brian! - they said passionately. “This is the head!”
28.
No, in fact, I was ready to listen to Mikhail Vasilyevich all day, or even two. He told why smoking filtered cigarettes is more harmful than just cigarettes, how pipe tobacco differs from cigarette tobacco (he loves to smoke), the story of the Russians coming to these lands and what happened before that, how ore is mined and why the Kochkanar Mining and Processing Plant wants to evict them from here and much more.
29.
I learned a lot of new information, but never received an answer to my questions about the plans of the monastery, where the money for construction came from and why there are no documents for the land. With Buddhist directness, the lama answered me that we are what we think; that the monastery is not the main thing, the main thing is the process; and money is like food: if it is taken internally according to the body’s needs, then the food becomes food and since the body is alive, then there is food. Excellent tax answer, you can use it
30.
After tea and conversation, break for work. That day they made a shed-shed for all kinds of household needs.
31.
The people here are handy, and whether you like it or not, you will inevitably learn to work with your hands. All sorts of mechanisms were collected around the area and used on the farm. No one will just drag such heavy weights up the mountain.
32.
A couple of years ago there were fewer problems with the delivery of building materials, food, and in general with movement. From the mining and processing plant there was a pass for entry and passage, the car could drive to that site with a sign for Camel.
33.
Since then, the plant’s policy has changed dramatically and even on foot the monks pass through the checkpoint illegally. There is also a path on the northern side of the mountain, but it is suitable for transporting anything only in winter.
34.
Then, with the help of dogs or a snowmobile, construction materials are thrown in. By and large, there are two seasons in the monastery: winter is the time of dropping off building materials and studying, summer is the time of construction and study.
35.
Up here there is no electricity, running water, or steam heating. No official permits, no documents. One on one with the outside world.
36.
The territory of the monastery, in fact, like the whole mountain with all the lakes, Camels, a monument to Gagarin and a mass hiking trails The Kachkanarsky GOK wants to finally close it. The basin is expanding, they are starting to develop a new field, and there is a risk that the mountain may be destroyed by explosions.
37.
Shad Tchup Ling is the only mountain Buddhist monastery in Russia, the Kachkanarsky GOK is developing the only vanadium deposit in Russia. It’s hard to argue with money; the plant produces 55 million tons of iron ore per year.
38.
In addition to the monastery, we may also lose a mountain, as happened with one of the Sterlitamak shihans. In 2015, the mining and processing plant plans to launch production at a new deposit at the very foot of the mountain.
39.
One of the main tenets of Buddhism is that everything in this world is changeable and impermanent.
40.
But let's return to the monastery. We came there for a couple of hours, and ended up staying for a bathhouse, dinner and overnight. Where does everything come from on this rocky peak?
41.
Even though it’s May, the schedule is still winter. Studying, shopping for supplies, tea. No one stands over the students with a stick, it’s just that if you came here, it means you want to study, and in order to survive you need to do housework.
42.
This is what the monastery should become at the end of construction. Dogs provide the main assistance in transporting building materials. The guys say that they had a hard time with them until they understood what needed to be done so that they would pull the sled in the right direction. Well, the dogs seemed to understand what they wanted. But there are still cases when the whole bunch breaks to the side and runs away wherever they look, taking the sleigh with it.
43.
Mikhail says that the level of students is different. Someone with higher education, and someone needs to improve their school course. There are books in the library for every taste, that's for sure.
44.
According to the schedule, from among the monks, those on duty are appointed to take care of the household, someone is assigned to work at a construction site, and someone goes into the city on business or to buy groceries. In general, it’s like in the army.
45.
The farm has chickens, goats, a cow, and dogs. Everyone needs to be fed, everyone needs to be cleaned up.
46.
Some also need to be milked.
47.
This is a vegetable garden. They say they even grow something. Mikhail graduated from the Perm Agricultural Institute in a year and probably knows some secrets about how to grow potatoes on stones. As I say, he is a very interesting and versatile person.
48.
There is no electricity, the light comes from a kerosene stove, but there is LED lighting powered by a car battery. The laptop runs on it, and the battery is charged during the day when the gas generator is started for work.
49.
The water is local, rainwater. It is collected in a natural reservoir and taken as needed. In winter it all freezes to the bottom and you have to melt the ice and snow.
50.
As the lama says, they have been drinking for several years, the horns and hooves have not grown, so everything is fine. It was difficult in the dry years. It was summer, when there was no rain for several months and we were without water.
51.
This is how it lives somehow unique place. It is clear that not everything is legal, it is clear that outwardly it looks more like a labor community, but I would really like the GOC to find an opportunity to leave the monastery and the mountain alone.
52.
We wish the monks good luck and strength of spirit. As far as I know, now, six months later, their situation has not changed.
