Buddhist temple in the Perm Territory. Sverdlovsk Buddhist Monks (Shad TCUP Ling)
Every morning we are born again. And what we will do today will have the greatest importance.
Siddhartha Gautama
I continue the story about interesting people. Yes, the story will mostly be about the only mountain Buddhist monastery on the territory of Russia, but the monastery is the work of a concrete person.
So, Spring, Sverdlovsk region, Kachkanar, Mountain of the same name.
01.
I found information about the monastery by chance when preparing a spring trip to the Urals. Intelligent visiting reports can be counted on the fingers, mostly some articles about litigation with Kachkanar Gok and hears about the near demolition. So it was necessary to take hands to your feet and go until it was too late.
02.
Mount Kachkanar stands next to the city of the same name, more precisely, the city stretches at the foot of the mountain. The mountain is so-so, far from Elbrus, only 887.6 m. Here at this height we had to go.
03.
The most difficult of all the ascent was to pass through the gock. Mountain turned out to be in the territory of the enterprise. He asked the guard, whether it was possible to go to the mountain, she answered that it was possible, but it was necessary to agree on management, it was in the city, but they do not work (Saturday), and not a quick thing. But since we arrived from afar, she simply must tell us that the work of them is difficult, the territory is huge and just to keep track of it is simply impossible. Here, the barrier she sees, and there, there, there are no longer behind the bushes in three meters. They say there is a path, and then on the road, the main thing, not to get under BelAZ. Thanking a security guard and expressing his regret about the unavailability of the monastery because of bureaucratic wires, we went for the bushes.
04.
Well, then on a great road climb uphill. On the way you can slow down on a pair of viewing sites, even climb on the lighting tower. The quarry acting, so you have to look at what it is necessary to watch in both.
05.
From the second observation in the mountain, a straight old road is out of it. Lifting, literally per hour crossed several natural belts. It is necessary to led on the excursions of children, rarely in such an accessibility can be so clearly showing changes in nature.
06.
And in the end you go to a small glade. Directly go - you will get to the cliff camel and the alpine lake.
07.
Lake so-so. In the summer, probably, it will be more fun, and in May there was still ice on it. For people, fishermen in spring are still sitting in spring
08.
And the right starts just a fiction (for the end of spring) the snow deposits, according to which the chain of old traces is seen. We go on them. Step to the side and fall almost a belt.
09.
Under the legs a thick layer of snow, and under the snow the streams are bored. They are very angry and do not want to fall into them at all. After a few hundred meters right in the forest, a large stack of boards and a sign in the style of "Traveler, throw out your belongings, leave fatigue and help in the construction of the monastery." We helped, yes.
10.
The last jerk on Kurumnik, jumping along slippery stones and here is the monastery. Honestly, there were fears not to catch him in place.
11.
The monastery is built, from fully finished buildings, perhaps, only wake-up stupa. Through the gate, the drums and the information board are finally falling inside.
12.
We are clearly happy
13.
Yes No, in fact Rada. A man came out on Lai dogs and spent us inside, dry after swimming in the snow and drink tea. "Drink tea" is perhaps the most part used phrase on top.
14.
In this concept, the tea party is not invested, although it will certainly certainly be, but rather conversations and gatherings. Eastern Such an option is asia.
"And where are you from? And then where to see pictures? In LJ? Is he still alive?! "
Soon they had a logbook shadtchupling
15.
Warning, go out for exploration. It is a stunning beauty place! I love the mountains, even so small. Something there is a primitive, revealing subconscious in the person.
16.
A long time ago, Mansi lived on these lands. On the mountain itself they did not live, but it was considered a place of force and was used to accomplish religious rites.
17.
When Russians came to these places, they became interested in local deposits. According to rumors, Demidov himself wanted to buy away from Mansi Mount the whole, but they did not have grown there.
18.
Then the platinum fever passed on these places, but it was fast. The GOK was founded in the late 50s of the last century, then the city of Kachkanar at the southern slope of the mountain was also founded.
20.
The idea of \u200b\u200bthe construction of the monastery came to his Creator in 1995. Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov became the creator, a very interesting person. He was born in the military family, he commanded a sabotage-learning group for several years in Afghanistan.
21.
From the army, he was demobilized by disability in the rank of captain, he worked as Sanitar in Morga, Kok in the Ratchflow, externally graduated from the Nizhny Tagil Art School.
22.
In the late 80s, at the age of 27, Mikhail decides to go to study in the Ivolginsky Datsan. Received and accepted the monastic name Tenzin dock. I went to Mongolia and after graduation I wanted to move there to live there. But fate ordered otherwise.
23.
To be quite accurate, otherwise his teacher Phama Dzhang ordered. The young lame did not have an order to build a Buddhist Dacan in the Urals. Logic is simple: in the east there are Buryat temples, in the west, St. Petersburg Gunzhechynei, in the south of Dácana Kalmykia, and in the middle empty. No in the Urals of Buddhist temples. And to stand at all, the temple should stand on the top of the mountain.
24.
Chose Kachkanar, mountain on the border of Europe and Asia. As I said, this place was known for a long time as a place of power. And the name of the monastery was given by the TCUP Ling Ling - "Place of Practice and Sales" (or "Place of Studying and Implementation", who like best). The construction began on May 15, 1995 and built the first years of Tenzin docket one.
25.
The first buildings were almost completely wooden and the fire that happened in 1998 destroyed everything rebuilt. Lama and his few students had to start all over again.
26.
After walking around the mountain, drink tea again.
27.
Mikhail is a great interlocutor with a peculiar sense of humor. In general, if you communicated with a Buddhist, who was a military, pathologist and a river, and even with good formation and encyclopedic knowledge in various fields, then you will understand me
For some reason, I remembered the "Golden Calf" all the time.
"Have read a conference on disarmament? - Approached one pike vest to another peak vest. - Speech by Count Bernstorph.
- Bernstorf is a head! - answered the asked vest in such a tone, as if he was convinced of a long-term acquaintance with the graph. - And you read, what speech did Snowden, at a meeting of voters in Birmingam, of this conservative citadel?
- Well, what to say about ... Snowden is a head! Listen, Valiadis, - He turned to the third old man in Panama. - What do you say about Snowden?
"I will tell you frankly," Panama answered, "no finger in the mouth in his mouth." I would personally put my finger.
And, the nimalo is not embarrassed by the fact that Snowden would never allow Valiadis to climb a finger into his mouth, the old man continued:
"But whatever you say, I will tell you frankly-Chamberlain all the same head."
Picked vests raised their shoulders. They did not deny that Chamberlain is also a head. But most of all consoled them to Brian.
- Brian! - They said with heat. - This is the head! "
28.
No, in fact I was ready to listen to Mikhail Vasilyevich all day, or even two. He told why smoking cigarettes with filter more harmful than just cigarettes than a pipe tobacco from cigarette (he likes to smoke), the story of the arrival of these lands of the Russians and what was before, how to get the ore and why Kochkhanarian GOK wants to evict them from here And a lot of things.
29.
I learned a bunch of new information, but I have not received a response to my questions about the plans of the monastery, where does the money for construction and why there are no documents for Earth. With Buddhist Lama lama responded to me that we are what we think; that the monastery is not the main thing, the main process; And the money is like a meal: if it takes it inside the body's needs, then the food becomes food and once the body is alive, it means food. An excellent tax answer, you can use
30.
After tea and conversations, a break on work. That day they did a shed for any economic needs.
31.
People here have been gathered, and you want it or not, you will surely learn how to work with your hands. All sorts of mechanisms were going around the district and are used in the economy. Just no one will drag such gravity to the mountain.
32.
A couple of years ago, problems with the delivery of building materials, products, and indeed with movement was less. From Gok was a pass to the passage and passage, the car could reach the place with a pointer to the camel.
33.
Since then, the plant's policy has changed dramatically and even on foot the monks pass gear illegally. There is another path from the northern side of the mountain, but for transportation of anything it is only suitable in the winter.
34.
Then, with the help of dogs or snowmobile, a building of construction materials is made. By and large, in the monastery two years of year: winter is the time for the abandonment of building materials and study, summer time of construction and study.
35.
Here, above, there is no electricity, water pipe, steam heating. No official permits, no documents. One on one with the outside world.
36.
The territory of the monastery, in fact, like the whole mountain with all lakes, camels, a monument to Gagarin and a mass of tourist trail Kachkanarsky GOK wants to finally close. The pool is expanding, start developing a new field and is the risk that the mountain from explosions can be destroyed.
37.
The TCUP Ling SHD is the only mountain Buddhist monastery in Russia, Kachkanarsky GOK is developing the only vanadium field in Russia. It is difficult to argue with money, the plant issues 55 million tons of iron ore per year.
38.
In addition to the monastery, we can also lose the mountain as it happened with one of Sterlitamak Shikhan. In 2015, the GOK is going to launch production at a new field at the very foot of the mountain.
39.
One of the main postulates of Buddhism is that everything in this world is changeable and inconstant.
40.
But back to the monastery. We came there for a couple of hours, eventually stayed on a bath, dinner and overnight stay. Where does that take on this stone top?
41.
Although in the yard and May month, the schedule is still winter. Study, hiking material, tea. No one stands over the students with a stick, just if you came here, then you want to study, but to survive it is necessary to do the economy.
42.
This should be a monastery at the end of construction. In the transport of building materials, dogs are provided by dogs. The guys say they have suffered with them, until they realized what they need to do so that they drag the sleigh in the right direction. Well, the dogs seem to understand what they want from them. But still there are cases when the whole bundle breaks away and flies where the eyes look, carrying a sleigh with them.
43.
Mikhail says the level of students is different. Someone with higher education, and someone must tighten the school course. Books in the library for every taste, that's for sure.
44.
According to the routine, duty officers are appointed by the housework, outfit for the construction site, someone goes to the city in cases or for products. In general, as in the army.
45.
In the utility farm, chickens, goats, cow, dogs. Everyone needs to be fed, to remove everyone.
46.
Some still have to make.
47.
This is a vegetable garden. They say something even grown. Mikhail over the year finished the Perm Agricultural Institute and, probably, knows some secrets, how to grow potatoes on the stones. I say, very interesting and versatile man.
48.
No electricity, Light from Kerosinki, but there is a LED lighting running from a car battery. A laptop works from him, and the battery is charged during the day when a benzogenerator starts for work.
49.
Local water, rain. It is recruited in the natural reservoir, and is taken as needed. In winter, it all freezes to the bottom and you have to drown ice and snow.
50.
As Lama says, they drink not the first year, horn hoofs are not a branch, so everything is fine in the dry years. It was summer, when there were no rains for several months and sat without water.
51.
That's somehow it lives this unique place. It is clear that not everything is legally, it is clear that it looks more like a labor community, but I would very much like to keep the GOK to leave the monastery and mountain alone.
52.
We wish the monks of good luck and fortress of the spirit. As far as I know, now six months of the year, the situation is without change.
Mount Kachkanar Located near the city of the same name in the Sverdlovsk region, approximately 260 kilometers from Yekaterinburg.
Kachkanar is one of the highest mountains of the Middle Urals, reaching a height of 887.6 meters above sea level. Folded by mountain rocks with gabbro, peridotitis and pyroxenites.
Toponymists believe that the name of the mountain occurred from the Turkic words "pitching" - bald and "Nar" - camel.
The boundary of two parts of light - Europe and Asia, as well as two regions - the Sverdlovsk region and the Perm Territory passes near the mountain. Mountains were located gold and platinum peasants.
The first scientific description of the Kachkanar Mountain completed the tour in the Urals in 1770 academician P.S. Pallas In the book "Journey to different provinces of the Russian Empire" (1786). Vogulu showed Pallasa two mines where magnetic Zheleznyak was previously mined.
In the 1860s, the Kachkanarsky array studied the famous geologist A.P. Karpins , later led by the Academy of Sciences.
In 1957, the foot of the mountain began construction Kachkanar mining and processing plantSoon, one of the youngest cities of the Sverdlovsk region grew up here - kachkanar city.
Currently, the development of titanagnetite ores of Mount Kachkanar continues, existing huge careers expand, new ones are planned.
Mount Kachkanar has two vertices - North and South. They are called "Northern Rog" and "Human Rog", respectively. Each of them is beautiful in its own way, each opens a magnificent view (while the city of Kachkanar is visible only from the southern vertex).
On the top of the mountain, the set of rocks of the bizarre form. Many of them have their own names. The most famous ass - rock camel.
In 1995, on the top of Mount Kachkanar was created buddhist monastery "Shad TCUP Ling" (Translated from Tibetan - place of practice and implementation). His founder is Mikhail Sannikov. The monastery has long turned into the main attraction of Kachkanar. To visit the only tourist Buddhist monastery in the Urals, a lot of tourists come, no one denied the monastery of the monastery. In the monastery there are two stups that are considered shrines.
However, very soon the monastery, built over many years with the hands of several enthusiasts, can be erased from the face of the earth. Evraz, who owns the Kachkanarsky GOK "Vanadium", demands to demolish "Self-abundant built buildings." On the side of the enterprise and the power of all levels.
Thus, instead of a monastery on this picturesque place, by 2015, another quarry should be formed by 2015 ... At the same time, destroying the only local attractions (Mountain and Monastery), the Kachkanar authorities talk about the grand planning plans for the development of tourism.
In general, I have time to visit the mountain Kachkanar and in the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals, until it is too late! ..
How to go to the mountain Kachkanar
1. Out to the foot of the Kachkanar Mountain
With the administrative area of \u200b\u200bKachkanar (see photo), on the street of Krylov (north) to the side of the bus station (200 m).
Kachkanar City Administration Building
Further on Krylov to the development of the western quarry - Valerianovsk. We head towards the Western career. We pass by the peninsula with the "Green Cape" profilatement (left) and go to the dam. On the right railway, on the left of the bay with the tower of rising from the water. We pass the dam and on the left see the parking lot. At this, I consider the first stage.
2. Go to the southern vertex
The southern top of the Kachkanar mountain (yes, the mountain has two high dots, and the highest, north, from the city is not visible), although it is not the highest point, but it should be visited. The path there is not so told by tourists, like on the northern vertex. View of the city of Kachkanar is possible only from southern height. The rocks of the vertices are compact. The path of about 6 kilometers with a constant rise in the mountain. The slope is small, so overcoming one transition.
If you are on the car, then it will have to be left on the site. On the left we find the trail going along the shore and move along it. It is necessary to reach the old ski slopes (600 m). You can go along the coast, but it is better to pick up the mountain so that it is less than less crawled upwards. Lifting steep. Climbing on the very top, we go on the way to the left.
View from the old ski trail
Meters after 100 go on the road and go to the right, meters after 100 we turn left. We go on the forest road without turning anywhere. First, it is not important, the road gradually expands and becomes better. After about 3.5 kilometers, you must not miss the path to the top. The road in this place goes to the right, and the path goes straight. The beginning of the path (from 58g 44m 58s; in 59g 24m 52c) is usually marked with ribbons on trees. We go to the path and approximately after 15-20 minutes we go to the rocks of the arrays. It is better to remember or celebrate the path of the paths, so that when going back does not join around the neighborhood.
The rocks of the southern peak used to have plates with titles. Now only holes in the stone remained from the plates.
Views from Southern Top
3. Go to the mountain lake
Before the northern vertex, there is lake. Apparently they took ore samples and pulled the pit, which was subsequently filled with water. Near the lake can be parted on the halt or overnight. There is a brazier, gazebo.
Lake on the site of the former working
There is a road to the lake itself, but you can only drive on the car only by passing, as the road passes through the territory of Kachkanar Gok.
From the site (see paragraph 1) moving on the road. About 2 kilometers will be the post of protection of Kachkanarsky GOK. If you are by car, then boldly leave the car before post. Further go on foot. We reach the buildings and go to the left left. After 300 meters, on the left, there will be a passage to the ski trail (see photo), but we go straight with a little deviation to the right.
Ski trail
Almost immediately will be the broad road to the right, but we do not need there, go straight to the mountain with a small bias. After turning to the left, the road will go up Western quarry.. There will be many tracks to the right. On them you can go to the edge of the pit and watch the work of the career.
Western quarry.
I will say right away that the Western career has viewpoint Which will be on the way. So we reached the turn of the road to the left (about 1 kilometer before it), we are there. But, if you go a little straight, there will be an observation deck of the Western career in the highest point.
Western Career Lookout
But back on the road. The distance from the observation deck to the lake is approximately 4 kilometers.
Road
A little no reaching the lake takes the beginning of the path to the Buddhist monastery.
The beginning of the path to the Buddhist Monastery
4. We go from the mountain lake to the cliff camel and the top of the Kachkanar mountain
For a lift to the mountain, it is necessary to get around the lake (better to the left), along the trail to reach a lot and start climbing. After about 700-800 meters, rock rock outputs will begin and the playground with a gazebo appears. From the site you need to turn on the left path. Immediately make a reservation that if you go right, then the path will bring directly to the Buddhist monastery. But we go to the "camel", and I will tell about the monastery further. Passing through the rocks rock "Camel" Appears in all its glory.
Rock "Camel"
Looking at the panorama and climbing on the rock we go further to the top, which is already visible from the "camel".
View from "camel"
The top view on the top begins immediately for the "camel". Passing 10-15 minutes approach the top of the Kachkanar mountain with which the panorama opens to the north. The highest point is marked with a concrete structure with a pipe. Right under the mountain is the village of Kosya, a little further, the building of the monastery is visible in the north-east.
Top Mount Kachkanar
View from the top to the villages of Spine and Ponf
View of the buildings of the monastery from the top of the Kachkanar Mountain
Rock Gagarin
5. Go from the mountain lake to the monastery Shad TCUP Ling
As I have already mentioned, the TCUP Ling Ling Monastery can be passed through the road leading to the top. But it is necessary to understand that the monastery is not just a landmark and just come to lay there is not welcome there. If you want you to pay attention to and spent a tour, and also treated with local tea, then such an event is better planning. The monastery is not taken with empty hands. Food is welcomed: sugar, tea, cookies, cereals, etc. Also near the start of the path in the monastery are building materials and if you capture bricks with you, boards, well, or what is still there, it will be good.
So, the beginning of the paths in the monastery TCUP Ling is not far from the lake along the path from Kachkanar. Skip this place will not work. Caps of building materials, old cars, a nameplate with a reminder "to a friend. You go to the monastery of capturing bricks, do not allow empty runs, "and also a sign for tourists pointing to that" camel "is not at all necessary to walk through the monastery.
After about a kilometer, a large glade will appear with a cable crossing, which is cast in building materials to the monastery.
Polyana with cable crossing
"Bulletin board" of the monastery
The monastery has two stupas, residential premises, a bath, a house for guests, a subsidiary farm. Permanent construction is underway.
M.V. Malakhov in the XIX century wrote about Kachkanar:
"I climbed the Kachkanar from the East, from where access is considered less convenient than from the West. Gone by Mount Spruce, which represents the Eastern Spur of Kachkanar and covered in fragments of rocks, very similar to the kitty for its general nature and content of magnetic ironcar, we began to climb the download . The whole rise is covered with boulders; their major weight consists of aggita grains with magnetic ironing residences. The first significant location of it was observed on the large terrace of the Mesh slope of the mountain in a typical coarse-grained Avgita breed. Joint finding iron and this breed, apparently not by chance What is confirmed by further observations. On the entire rise to the northern vertex, the magnetic Zheleznyak met at every step, but in small only streants, as well as on the northern top of the top. Going from here on the slope of the top of Kachkanar, you have to go down to the brand separating Both vertices. Further signs of magnetic ironing disappear and cut Ko appears again in the extensive placer of the magnetic Zheleznyak, located at the sole of the Kachkanar. "
A trip to Kachkanar can be combined with a visit to the mountain of the cap.
Monastery on Mount Kachkanar
Welcome to Mount Kachkanar!
© AlexanderPetrov (description of the route, photo),
kachkanar, 2011
© Pavel Runpacks (Description of Place)
website
60 years ago on the outskirts of the Sverdlovsk region, around the deposits of iron ore, the city of Kachkanar and his mining and processing plant arose. In the mid-90s in mountain forests, just a few kilometers from the career, a graduate of the Buryat datsana founded the Buddhist monastery, the construction of which continues until now. A few years ago, the plant (owned by the GC "Evraz", 31% of whose shares owns Roman Abramovich), announced a new development zone, the monastery falls in its border. So the interests of the Buddhist community and the metallurgical corporation crossed - and according to the law should not be resolved in favor of the monastery. As long as Buddhists argue with the Combine authorities and the bailiffs, life continues on the top of the mountain.
During the year, the photographer The Village Anna Markchenova fixed how the TCUP Ling Ling lives, and who finds the refuge there, where the temperature in the winter falls to minus 40. We are telling the stories of people that build a Buddhist monastery on the outskirts of the Urals.
Doctoches and his top
In Russia, Buddhism is the traditional religion of three peoples - Buryat, Tuvintsev and Kalmykov. All of them profess Tibetan, or Northern, Buddhism, and the chief buddhist center of the country is located in Ulan-Ude. In the same place, at the Ivolginsky Dacan, the Buddhist University has been working and the residence of the main Buddhist of Russia is located. Every year, two dozen novices - Huvarakov are gaining at the university, and for five years they explore Buddhist philosophy, Eastern medicine, tantrician and meditation techniques, Buryat and Tibetan languages. As in the university's secular university, graduates receive diplomas about higher education, and even religious ranks: men become lamas, women - Handamami.
Now in Russia a little more than half a million practitioners of Buddhists, monasteries and temples work in Kalmykia, Buryatia, Tuva, Irkutsk, the Trans-Baikal Territory, Moscow and St. Petersburg. The only monastery in the Urals, where Buddhist religion has never been traditional, in the spring of 1995 began to build a former military sniper Mikhail Sannikov.
In 1981, he sent to serve in Afghanistan, where he destroyed the caravans with a weapon from Pakistan. After the service, in the early 90s, Mikhail entered the Tantric Faculty of the Institute at the Ivolginsky Dácane, from where it came out with a new name - now Lama name is Sanya Tenzin. Teacher, PEMA DZHANG, instructed the doctor to build a monastery in the Urals - and chose his place himself. In 1995, Lama climbed to Mount Kachkanar, and on a draw earth, not far from the local Gok, began to build a Buddhist center. The future monastery at the Ural height of 887 meters did not tell the TCUP Ling Chad, or the "Place of Practice and Implementation".
Stupa among the snow
At the top of Lama, the first house was built: a metering bony bony, colole their sledgehammer, conducted electricity, built a lift for heavy loads on a steep slope. Here he led the first students - after 22 years, they turned the wild mountain plateau in the Buddhist complex of several residential rooms, yoga rooms, libraries, workshops, warehouses and ritual premises.
There is no monastery itself on the territory of the complex, but there are already cult facilities - Buddhist stups. On a patch between the cliffs, members of the community built a large and small wake-up stupets, the stupets of Parisy, laid the base of the stupas of the convergence from the heaven of the steastitis. In total, the traditions of Tibetan Buddhism are eight types of stories associated with different stages of the life of the Buddha. They differ in architectural details in the middle part: Stupa Parinirvana has the shape of the bell and symbolizes the perfect wisdom of the Buddha, the stump of convergence is characterized by a large number of steps. It is the stupas that are not illusturiously protecting the TCUP Ling SHD, because they are objects of cultural heritage.
Constantly on top of the Kachkanar remains only to do with a couple of his followers. In the summer, 13-15 people live in a small community, in winter - twice as fewer. Persons change, as well as the reason for which people turn out to be here. Students in academic leave and search for themselves, former military and beginner buddists rose to the top. The way to the top begins at the western passage of the plant - the parties observe silent neutrality, and therefore the path takes a few meters to the forest to the left of the checkpoint. In the summer, there are six kilometers on gravel, two more - on the roots of mountain pines, MSh and Kurumnik; In winter, on a holing path, it is still faster. Kachkanar, where 40 thousand miners live, remain far below. Almost 300 kilometers to the West is Ekaterinburg.
Members of the community lead the logbook in LJ and page "VKontakte", respond to a common mobile. The journal recorded the work done for the day, the names of the living here are constantly, the number of tourists who came in the last days. There they also leave notes for those who are going upstairs and want to help the monastery, "they ask for carrots and cereals, salt, matches, light building materials like a self-adhesive film. Occasionally in social networks declare fees on something large, like solar batteries.
Danil
Seven years ago Danil drove 500 kilometers on a bike to get to Kachkanar. He is the most senior student of Lama and never communicates with tourists. Since he appeared on top, a lot has changed here.
"In my youth, I wanted to get rich and began to play on the stock exchange, engaged in online trading. He liked to analyze financial processes, adored adrenaline. I dreamed of earning a lot of money, go somewhere to the sea, sit behind a laptop, drink juice, and in the evening go to the teacher and talk about the meaning of life.
Once I was sitting at the computer and realized that stupid. God, I am 30 years old, I will see the monitor for another 10-20 years - and nothing will change. I started looking for someone who inspired me on the Internet, and stumbled upon the biography of Lama Docking. I sat on a bike and drove.
Seven years ago, I didn't know about Buddhism. It was difficult for me to take this worldview, I did not want to agree that the essence of life in suffering. He said that he was happy - I was afraid that if I receive, I really would suffer.
Over the years, I became another person, became sad, probably. Previously, it was so pleased with hiking of clubs, alcohol, girls and purchases, who talked about high status - and now I realized that it makes no sense to chase it, because there will always be little. I destroyed everything that I was pleased before, but I did not find what I would please now. And I'm going to go further: take the monastic vow and go to Mongolia or India to continue searching. "
SHD TCUP Ling without monks
All 20 years old Lama does not build a monastery with his own hands and accepts new followers, which teaches Buddhist practice and diligent labor. But while construction continues on top of the mountain, the community remains worldly - Buddhist monks is forbidden to engage in physical labor. If each of those who roll a stone or grows vegetables in the garden between the rocks, will become a monk - life in the TCP Ling Linga will stop. And while there are no monks to the top, the "place of practice and implementation" can not be called a monastery.
There is almost army routine in the community. Life is burning in a narrow room with a stove and linoleum. In the afternoon, duty in the kitchen are preparing a simple soup of cereals and carrots here, and in the evening, in the room, the studs of Lama pupils spread the tourist foams and sleeping bags to climb exactly six and run the budnite inclination from meditation and work. To stay in the monastery, you only need to ask the permission from the dock and be prepared for severe physical work. In the season of construction, work on top lasts up to eight in the evening - with breaks in Buddhist practices, lunch and dinner. Twice a week, they are drunk here, on weekends there are groups of tourists who sleep ahead with novices or in the tents, which are gone from monastic housing.
The usual morning in August, when on top already boils: after two hours of practice, the girl breaks the ice on a small pond and draw the water to cook breakfast and tea. In the house for yoga novices crushed moss, trying not to damage the disputes. They are needed in order to sprinkle with them a five-meter dragon sculpture collected from moss and a polymer mesh. In the spring dragon green. For the summer, novices built a gym, installed solar batteries and built the statue of the Buddha above the reliquer, where monastic shrines are stored. In the last days of August, men cover a statue of white paint.
By November, the construction season ends, and students who have decided to fall on the mountain, drown snow and ice, getting water, care for chickens and cows, prepare food for dogs, guarding the approaches to the monastery, stitching firewood and collect a twig. Girls are engaged in sewing and eyebuction: each Buddhist community has its own secret recipe - in the TCUP Ling Talk, for example, love Ivan tea. Becomes less tourists; In winter, novices devote themselves to practice and prayers.
The travelers come and go - someone stays for a week, someone for six months. Satim lived the longest here, for several years on top, she sewed thousands of colored flags, patchwork blankets and light fleece costumes for students. Now satima is being trained in India, in the spring to become the first nun from the top of the Kachkanar.
Wishing to learn Buddhism Lama teaches under the program "Opening of Buddhism". The student writes a statement, and three months remains under the closer look of Lama, strictly observing the rules of the community. After it is customary to ask for a doctor's refuge and fulfill 111 thousand stretches - Buddhist practices, which should help the student to clear itself from vice and develop virtues in itself. In the TCUP Ling Ling, the stretch is performed on special planks, putting gloves: the one who commits a rite falls on a skip, and after rises and gets his legs there, where he had just been his face. A hundred thousand stretches takes weeks and months, after which the conversation with Lama. And if he doesn't think that the student did not fully cleanse the mind, he continues to work on himself in a special house for shutters, reading mantras alone and receiving food from other members of the community. After the conversation is repeated.
Maxim
Big, bearded and smiling guy first does not want to tell why he is in the monastery. "You see, I had problems. But it is not important. The main thing is that everything is fine now, "he says and goes to clean the snow. The next time he is solved on a conversation in the workshop, where he worked all day.
"Life went to Kwyrkom after the army. I served the last two years and agreed to the service under the contract, signed a report. Was september 2004. The next day I was taken to the liberation of the school in Beslan.
Those who passed through the terrorist attack, protecting hostages, do not have any psychological assistance. But with these memories it was necessary to do something. I needed to calm down. I started with heroin and tried all the available drugs. After three years, the service returned to his native Kachkanar drug addict.
Dependence made me cruel. This is understandable in war: you will not kill you - you will kill you. But after returning people did not consider people for people. Parents perceived as a source of money, and strangers who gave me rudeness, - silently beat to death. They were taken to intensive care, and I wrote a statement. Then everything was repeated again.
Once I left the house and realized that there was nowhere to fall. Here, in Kachkanar, everyone knows about the monastery, and I went to the mountain from hopelessness. When I told about all the lame dock, he replied that he would think that could be done. And silently gave work, like everyone who decides to stay. So, while I worked, I was as if deployed 180 degrees. He could not get drugs - got rid of dependence, and suddenly began to communicate with people. I still have it strange that mom again speaks with me a loving voice - as if I am in my childhood, and she puts me to sleep.
Valya does not answer Lama, thought. The shaft 31 was born in Perm, worked in Moscow an accountant. Almost all adult life is psoriasis.
"Previously, the rashes were all over the face. I blended to go to the people: ugly, not east of it, and forever everyone sticks with questionings. Psoriasis appeared when I was knightened with my parents and left home. They say, a genetic predisposition is to blame, but nobody sick in my family. Not lucky to me.
In Moscow, I terribly worked hard. The routine was so tired that I drove out of the rented apartment, distributed all things and went to travel - I wanted to find a medicine from psoriasis. Two years lived in India. Salted water and the sun gave a cosmetic effect, the disease went inside, but did not disappear. When I returned to Russia, exacerbations began again. Here, on Mount, I want to cure my head, because any disease is psychosomatics. Here I swear myself - and will give it to others.
I came here in a deep depression, and now no worms climb. It is too beautiful for heavy thoughts: I go out into the courtyard, I look around, and happiness is excavated. "
Dog marks - Caravan goes
The last two years the monastery is under threat of demolition. In the depths of the mountain, on which it is located, - the deposits of Titanagnetite ore. In eight kilometers down, the explosions will rattle every day: after a ten-minute siren, two short signals sound, and clouds of crushed rock are rising. When the Western Career resource is exhausted, Eurasus will need a new field - the very thing next to the Buddhist stupas of the monastery of Shad Tchup Ling is. The complex falls into the sanitary protection zone of the new career, where any construction is prohibited.
Mikhail Sannikov began construction illegally, and therefore the enterprise has the right to drive out of unandoned guests from its territory. Lama docked more than once tried to legalize his buildings, negotiating with the administration of the city and the plant, but in February 2017, the bailiff service issued a decision on the demolition of the monastery. Then the Buddhists have encouraged the power and social activists, including the musician Boris Grebenshchikov, and the bailiffs because of the blurred road could not give a decision of Lama. It turns out that it was hardly that the construction equipment required for demolition was unlikely to rise to the top. Question is hung in the air, and life on the mountain continues.
From time to time in conflict, a new turn happens. For example, a month ago, the State Duma deputy Andrei Alshevsky filed a request to the administration of the Governor of the Sverdlovsk region about how the conservation group works. In response from the administration, a letter was sent with the results of the examination, which was held by the St. Petersburg State Museum of Religion. They said that a religious organization on top of the brainer is illegitimate, because it does not have a charter, and can not be considered as a monastery, because it does not have the necessary number of monks.
In response to the results of the examination, residents of the TCUP Ling shade shrug. After the news about the examination, they contacted the Museum's Chief Specialist, and it turned out that the specialist knows about the study. In the spring of India will return the first nun of the monastery, satima, and after the other. The dog will bark, and caravan - go.
On the mountain Kachkanar on the border of the Perm Territory and the Sverdlovsk region is the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals.
The history of Buddhism in the Urals has no longer one hundred years, but during the Soviet Union Buddhism, like many other religions, went to the underground, and by the time the collapse of the USSR completely disappeared. Buddhism in the Urals began to spread only in 1995, when the former Military Mikhail Sannikov was trained in Buddhist culture in Buryatia and Mongolia, having received the new name Sanier Tendzin, and decided to start building the monastery of TCUP Ling and the complex of sacred stars on Mount Kachkanar . The name in translation means "practice and implementation".
To date, about 10 novices and Lama himself live in the monastery. In addition, people constantly come to him who help in the construction of the monastery and simply for several days to live in nature or in meditation.
While the monastery cannot be called full - so far he is in the active phase of construction, and there is no division into male and women's premises, as there is no separate room for laity - although it should be on the canons. Even for obtaining the status of "Monastery", it is necessary that four fully dedicated monks constantly lived in it, whereas today one in the monastery is one - Lama docked, but novices are also constantly studying and traveling on.
You can get to the monastery from the village of Spicy, which is located at the foot of the mountain. Previously, the guests climbed the short way near the career owned by the international mining company "Evraz", but now the company fully bought the entire territory of the mountain, closed access and put PPC. The monastery is negotiating with the authorities and the Directorate of the Company so that they are allowed to remain, but so far it has not led to anything. Therefore, the rise comes from the village. But if they decided to rise through the checkpoint, we advise you to bypass the booth through the forest. But then you will raise the short road enough and you can look at a huge quarry.
When lifting along the trail from the village of Spicy there is one unwashed rule - somewhere in the middle of the rise is a huge bunch of boards. You will be very grateful if everyone takes it up with you on one side - because the monastery is constantly being built. Recently, a large room for guests / dining room was completed.
The origin of the heap of boards in the middle of the forest is a separate story. A few years ago, the territory of Mount Kachkanar also chose the ROC, which decided to build his church, 100 meters from the monastery. But this idea was not realized - the regional authorities supported the monastery that he first took this territory, and when the builders learned that they would have to raise the heaps of boots (there were practically no roads there - only a trail or winter on a snowmobile), they threw the boards In the middle of the forest and gone.
The monastery has everything that it needs its inhabitants for normal life - starting with an electric generator and stoves for winter, ending with riding dogs, goats and snowmobiles. But still, before you come to them, it is best to write in
And again, a restless head and the walking legs again suffered me on the weighs of the debris. With me were called to ride the daughter of eighteen years old and friend Denis. Our way this time was already a little further than usual - albeit rich Perm region At the sights, but also they are sometime for an end. No, of course, you can watch a lot more, but the priorities and Wishlists come into business. And they are more and more to large spaces and mountains. In a word - to scales.
This time was chosen aside Sverdlovsk region: almost on the border with Perm region there is kachkanar city. So. Kachkanarsky mining and processing plant (Evraz Holding)which in its surroundings leads the production of titaniumagnetite ore.
View of the monastery from the height of the northern peak of the mountain
What can be seen in the brainer
And on the way to it?
The majority of sights focused in the area of \u200b\u200bthe same name the mountains: Actually Mountain itself with her rocky rocks on top, mountain lake at the place of development of stone, buddhist monastery and stela Gagarin. At the foot of the mountain, along the way to the top is located Western Kachkanarsky Square Quarry. Also if you go to the side Perm region, then 40 kilometers from Kachkanara You can visit mountain.
But about everything else below. Since the photo material turned out to be much, then with all the desire I could not shove the unpiered and without loss to show all these objects in one report. Therefore, there will be three parts - one about the monastery, and the second - about other attractions Kachkanara, Well, the third is about mount Kolpaki.
How to get?
Getting to Kachkanara not difficult - Kachkanar located 280 km from Perm and 260 OT Yekaterinburg. Did not check the road from Ekata, but OT. Perm The road is quite, although very winding.
Coordinates for GPS navigator
58.77678, 59.38694
Monastery Shad TCUP Ling on the map
How to climb to the top?
We chose a longer route - from Western Career. The reason for this is simple - only going through this path can be seen Western quarry..
To get to the original point of this route you need to pass the city through, roll in the direction Western Career, cross the dam and soon you will see the PPC of the company Evraz. There boldly leave the car, turn the left in the undergrowth and go around the checkpoint. After you can easily come out again on the road, it is not shinking anyone. The road is common and diligently lowered by grader. After about 2.5 kilometers, you will reach the development - on the right there will be an observation deck with views of the quarry, and the road to the monastery turns left to the left. On this road, it is necessary to go about 4 km without turning anywhere to the dressing with a tree decorated with ribbons. The right will be the road to the monastery, and right - to the mountain lake and rock camel.
Those who do not want to trample white legs can offer Life-hack How to cut a hiking path of kilometers by 6-7. Find out in the reception KGOK phone Bureau of Pass, contact him and get the necessary pass under the tourist purpose of the visit. He himself did not check (since the day before was the day off), but according to the methods of the method works. On the all-wheel drive car with normal clearance you can get to the development with a "tape" tree - places, closer to the top, the snow still lies on the road.
Buddhist community TCUP Ling
History TCUP Ling (in Tibetan pronunciation "Sheddubling", TIB. bshad Sgrub Gling.; "The place of study and implementation") is directly related to the personality of his Lama - Sanier Tenzin dock (Mikhail Sannikova)who, as directed by his teacher PEM DZHANGA (Darma DOO Cyllantazheva) In mid-May 1995, arrived at mount Kachkanar And there was the first stone of the monastery there.
For 22 years of existence on the harsh stones of the Mountain Monastery (a small reservation relative to this below) under the start Lama docking Gradually rebuilt. The current state is far from causing admiration - striking that despite the heroic efforts of followers, the lack of resources affects literally in everything and the construction is moving very slowly. Nevertheless, over the past year, the monks have built a number of important objects, including the greater buddha statue. As far as I realized that the community had the right to refer to the monastery, she should build an 8-star - half already created, and the rest of the monks intend to complete in 2017.
To support the community, a good tone when visiting it, will be brought with them building materials or food . To find out the most relevant things, it is better to call the community in advance and clarify information from the on-net guests. No one obliges to anything, but simply keep in mind that you are just a curious guest in these walls. We took the bur for a perforator and sweets to tea.
In addition to tourists, the community of hospitality and pilgrims, detailed information can be obtained.
In my opinion, the most beautiful monastery looks in winter when the wind and frost climbs everything in a thick layer of Iney. However, to see all this magnificence will have to work seriously - a multi-kilometer path to the mountain of the terenist.
Why go so far and climb so high?
Guests of the community on the approaches to the top meets Kurumnik 
The most famous Buddhist prayer - Manya Padme Hum 
To get to the monastery you need to go through the main gate.
The door doors have a colorful painting. Wind, humidity and cold pretty merciless even for modern acrylic paints.
Symbiosis of stone and spirit. In such harsh conditions, every natural shelter is used. 
Mortar 
Guests on guests spend a tourist excursion 
Mortar 
In the boots of rocks you can see the expanser of the Ural Parma 
Interior courtyard of the monastery 
After the excursion, we were invited to drink tea, and Chado also took care of the help of tablets with mantras 
The day was a success - closer in the evening clouds were separated and we enjoyed the picturesque rays of the sun 
At the foot of the rocks of the monks take water 
Main statue of Buddha Video
A small video from the series "Chetovizhutopoi" - do not pay attention to my seven-sized rye - so in a hurry to gather on the eve of what I was in my head in boxing during the loading of Schmurdyak.
What to see next?
Stay on the line - there are two more promised notes: about the same and mount Kolpaki.
