Mount Shaan-Kaya in the vicinity of Alupka - photo, GPS coordinates. Lake near the Shaan-Kaya rock - an emerald bead over Alupka Lake Shaan Kaya how to get

Mount Shaan-Kaya (Alupka, Russia) - detailed description, location, reviews, photos and videos.

• Last Minute Tours Worldwide

"Crimean Shanghai" ... the picture that pops up in the head with such a phrase does not correspond to reality in the least. In fact, Shaan-Kaya Mountain (translated from the Turkic "Falcon Mountain") is called here with such an outlandish name, it is also Nishan-Kaya. It is clear that the consonant name just begs for an analogy with Chinese city... What is this place famous for and what to do there ordinary tourist? Let's just say: in terms of adrenaline, Mount Shaan-Kaya can be called one of the coolest places in the entire CIS.

Firstly, this huge rock, standing aside from the Ai-Petrinsky Yaila, attracts climbers like a magnet. It has a negative slope, because the routes here are extremely difficult, but also extremely interesting. They say that climbers first conquered Mount Shaan-Kaya only in 1966. Secondly, the surrounding beauty is simply incredibly picturesque, here you can walk for hours and days, enjoying every new bend of the trail and the opening angle. To do this, despite the very negative slopes, is as easy as shelling pears - two, albeit not easy, but quite pedestrian trails surround the local "Shanghai". Finally, Shaan-Kaya is a mecca of rope jumpers who make incredible free-fall jumps of 160 m from its summit.

If you look at Shaan-Kaya from above, you will see that this rock seemed to split from the main mountain range Ai-Petri and slid down a little, wanting to get to the sea. Who knows, maybe someday she will succeed. Its northern slope is quite flat and gentle - it is here that hikers and other loitering onlookers stroll. But the southern slope is just very steep, tortured flocks of climbers pass here, competitions are held, in a word, life is in full swing.

The height of the Shaan-Kaya cliff is 871 m.

If you look at Mount Shaan-Kai from above, you will see that this rock broke off from the main mountain range Ai-Petri and slid down a little, wanting to get to the sea. Who knows, maybe someday she will succeed.

Climbers should know that the height difference of the Shaan-Kai wall reaches 250 m; in terms of difficulty, local routes are classified as 6th category.

As for the crazy Rope Jumpers, you can't say much about them. You have to be a notorious daredevil to jump from a height of 235 m, reaching 160 m of free fall. However, all this happens under the strict guidance of instructors, from a comfortable platform, and not just from a suitable boulder, but also with professional equipment. As a rule, all jumpers are accompanied by their own director, who then mounts the brutal faces of people diving into a stone abyss in memory.

Rope jumping from Shaan Kai

Coordinates

The address: South coast Crimea, not far from Alupka and Simeiz, exact coordinates for the navigator: + 44 ° 26 "9.00", + 34 ° 1 "12.00".

How to get there: to just walk under or around Shaan-Kai, you can take buses No. 28 or No. 42 from the Yalta bus station, which follow to the Pitomnik stop in Alupka. From there - up the road, then through the vineyards to get to the dirt road, which will lead almost under the wall of the ridge. It takes a long time to go because the best way- on your own car, taxi or catch a fellow traveler.

For rope jumpers and climbers, everything is easier: they are taken out as part of teams, as a rule, for several days - with preliminary instructions and overnight stays in tents.

Shaan-Kaya, Nishan, Ishan, Target, Shanghai - all these are the names of the same object - an impregnable rock, separated from the Ai-Petrinskaya yayla and located not far from Alupka. But no matter how they call it, absolutely everyone who has visited this place, agree: there are not so many places of similar beauty on Earth.

The stone beauty, although not distinguished by a record height (871 meters), has left an impressive mark in the history of mountaineering. And to this day, climbers of the peaks consider it an honor to be able to climb the mountain, accessible only to falcons.

Story

The main name of the rock is translated as "Falcon". Perhaps this is due to the fact that for a long time she remained undefeated and only birds could touch her. highest point... It was the most difficult mountain for climbers from all over the former Soviet Union. Only in 1966 a group of three people led by V. Pavlotos conquered the proud Shaan-Kaya. All daredevils received champion medals for a new world record.

Peculiarities

Today Shanghai is a rather lively massif, especially its southern slope, which is a light gray wall with an obvious negative slope and a vertical drop of 250 meters. The rocky mirror on this side is smooth, with a minimum of cracks, only occasionally there are limestone layers.

Many people dream of trying their hand at the local difficult tracks, the category of which is not lower than 5A. In addition to rock climbers, rope jumpers, paragliders and boulders have recently begun to visit here. Extremists are attracted by the opportunity to soar freely for almost 220 meters. Competitions of the brave with their spectacularity also lure the unprepared audience. Although tourists without experience will also be able to climb without any problems, they will only do it along the northern sloping side.

And if you don’t want to bother walking along bear paths, you won’t be bored anyway. Lovely observation deck overlooking the mountain and people, now crawling up, now jumping into reverse direction, located near a small lake directly opposite. This is a kind of local landmark. The emerald pond with clean and always cool water does not deserve any name, but it is very popular among savage tent camps. In addition to hardening bathing, fishing is also possible here. We advise you to come with an overnight stay in order to admire how the stars color the dish of the lake with small sparkles, surrounded by the mountain amphitheater and the whitewashed facade of Schaan.

How to get there

To start the ascent, you need to get to the stop "Pitomnik" or "Pozharka" near Alupka. They will help you with this. route taxis running between Yalta and Simeiz. From the Sevastopol direction there are direct regular buses to Alupka or Yalta, which will also suit you. Trails run up from the highway that go through the vineyards, and then the dirt road leads directly to the wall. The paths go around the rock from two sides and follow to the top.

Nature

Travel guides nearby

Community

Moscow tourists

The beauty of the surroundings of Yalta

Travail9, 17 Feb 2017

Mount Shaan-Kaya, whose height reaches 871 meters above sea level, is located not far from Alupka.
For the first time, a bunch of V. Pavlotos (Yalta) climbed the wall: V. Pavlotos - Y. Ganchev - M. Reznichenko.
This ascent took place from November 6 to 13, 1966, for this they used about 250 bolts.

The climbers spent 6 nights on the wall in specially designed platforms (they were then called "hard hammocks"). For more than 20 years the route has not been repeated, remaining a legend of Crimean mountaineering and having a reputation as dangerous and almost impassable.

The route was named "Zenith".
For that time, it was an epoch-making event.

Shaan-kaya was a myth. The obstruction of the Zenith is a myth that has existed since 1966. And each new team that came down from him to somehow explain their failure, backed him up with their story - the myth was pumping up and swelling. Even the very fact that the mountain was forgotten and almost none of us, Crimeans climbed there, speaks for itself. Some waved a hand at her, others made a judgment without even looking up close, only on the basis of rumors. "Loose, overhanging, there is no insurance, it is impossible to pull on ... And what is interesting there? Restitching and that's it" ...

The route of V. Pavlotos goes practically along the diretissim - straight up, crossing all the transverse belts of the dry land up to the last "humming" belt, which was the most terrible in many versions. The overhang angle is 115 degrees - the maximum, the whole rock hums when hammering, bolts have been poured long ago. Well, those that are holding on are hammered into blotches, which are still standing, but only so that we can fasten our rope in them. And then ... However, you still need to get there.

Shaan-Kaya. Zenith route profile

The story of Yuri Burlakov - the coach of the team (

It all started with delight and surprise.

Do you want me to show you one unique wall? - Valery Pavlotos, my associate in the development of the Crimean mountaineering virgin lands, told me once in the early sixties.
- Go ahead. - We then raved about the walls. We reached Alupka, and he pointed to a distant rock sticking out of the forest. Its bottom was covered with a small comb with pine trees, the top was superimposed on the cliffs of the Ay-Petrinskaya yayla and it was difficult to assess the wall from this point.

It was Shahan-kaya! Next to it from the east, almost adjoining, like a sentry stood a hundred-meter rock tooth.

Let's go up the forest. The rock hid even more behind the trees, sometimes shining through with its crown. From the upper kaptaj we turned off the road to the left and along the path we climbed to a large forest terrace. And only then did the mountain open.

I was literally stunned, saw point-blank wide, dignified yellow wall more than two hundred meters high. Her shoulders - one even, the other with a slight kink - fell to the east and west, and her forehead soared high in the sky. Never, neither earlier nor later, have I come across anything in the mountains that could so clearly reflect the concept itself - a wall,

This is the face, let's look in profile, - said Pavlotos.

From the east, from the west, and, it seems, from the north, simple paths led to the summit, and we began to wade through the thickets and rocky heaps to look at the wall from the western side, so to speak, at the end. On the way, fifty meters from the wall, in the trees, we unexpectedly stumbled upon a grave. On a tilted iron cross - “A. Ryazantsev ". By dates - a young guy. "Lost from Shahan-kai."

What's this? A Traveler's Oversight or the First Attempt to Assault the Shahan Kai from the South? I ran my eyes along the wall: her knobby crown hung right above us. Is it really negative? Then it turns out that the person was buried where he fell, - not bearable. We walked and looked back at the black cross, experiencing a strange excitement. Didn't he warn us against something? But from what? We went to the middle of the western slope, then I was again taken aback: the top of the wall hung about thirty meters over the base - a negative slope! Phenomenal! Is there anywhere in the world a wall with such an extended overhang ?! My first thought: what a great Foucault pendulum you can swing from her nose to fly on it over the tops of the pines! Frankly, I somehow immediately liked it here: the mountain itself, and the giant tooth, and a cozy terrace, and the chaos of rocks on it, and thickets intertwined with lianas, and pines, and a mysterious grave, and silence, as if I had been all my life looking for just such a place. Looking ahead, I confess that I later came to Shahan-kai dozens of times and always felt joy. The mountain knew how to cheer up. I serve her dearest treat to my visiting friends. However, back to the first meeting. Shaan-kaya attracted our eyes like a magnet; we peered into the folds warmed by the sun, trying to assess the possible options for taking as a climber. Of course, the center of the wall immediately disappeared: this is not taken - a rocky overhanging surface. Any climbing king is powerless here. On the eastern shoulder from the middle of the wall there were some cracks and internal corners. The bottom is unapproachable. Routes to the western shoulder had slightly more opportunities: one could see cracks, ledges, fireplaces, balconies. However, we did not have the courage to take on anything on Shahan-kai.

The years passed. But in February of the sixty-third, a small expedition of the sports club of the Kharkov Polytechnic Institute arrived in the center to capture Shahan-kai: USSR champion Oleg Kosmachev, the strongest rock climber of the republic Vitaly Timokhin and experienced climber Valery Bolizhevsky.

We ran under Shaan-kai, excited by the news, to see the climbers working on the negative wall.

We saw how, at an altitude of forty meters - the second day of the assault was going on - Oleg Kosmachev beat the hooks. Usually it takes about five minutes to drive a bolt while standing on the ground. On the wall, the leader spent ten or more. Apparently, in a suspended state, the hooks simply do not beat faster. It took a lot of time to move from the old point of support to the new one. But all the same, the sight was amazing: a man was climbing a smooth wall, blown by fog.

Oleg walked another ten meters and after a short roll call with his comrades, he began to remove ladders, carbines, a platform and a hang, went downstairs.

They did not calculate a little, - he explained embarrassedly, - the wall requires more than two hundred hooks, we do not have such an amount. Besides, deadlines are running out.

The guests silently unwound the ropes and packed their equipment into their backpacks. The wall repulsed the First Attack.

Still, Shaan-kaya is not taken in the center, - I said to Pavlotos when we went downstairs. - And it's not about the number of hooks - you can make as many of them as you like: the wall is psychologically difficult. It does not have the usual resting places: shelves, ledges, balconies where you can relax and take a breath - you will have to swing on the ladders all week. Who can handle this strain?

Soon Shaan-kai was again attacked by the Kharkov climbers. This time - Yuri Parkhomenko and Vladimir Sukharev. True, they were no longer climbing along the Center, but with the left variant. The expedition was attended by Yurina's mother, a tall energetic lady, almost the main leader of the expedition. We watched with emotion as she constantly raised the binoculars to her eyes, not ceasing to stir in a saucepan with a spoon.

Volodya, Yura, dinner is ready, - her sonorous voice rang out.

The climbers immediately stopped ascent as if on command and began “rappelling to the camp”.

Fanned with captivating scents, we glanced sideways at the serving and the menu, paying tribute to the tabor woman. Everything was here: first and second, pickles and preserves, fruits and dessert.

On such grubs, I would climb the wall, ”Pavlotos said quietly.

The next day, reaching the cornice, the Parkhomenko-Sukharev ligament retreated.

Then we learned that the third applicants for fame - Simferopol citizens - had time to visit the wall. They walked head-on along the center of the wall about ninety meters, and then there was not enough gunpowder either. Arriving under Shaan-kai, we saw their traces: another bolt path went up the rock. The mountain repulsed a third attack.

Yes, Nut, - I remember, I said then, slapping my palm on her hot rocky stomach.
- And you know, it is taken, - Pavlotos unexpectedly declared, - And in general, everything is taken: the southern wall of the peak of Communism, and the walls of Everest, and any wall of any peak. You just need to think well how to win. If we do not take Shaan-kaya now, others will take her in two or three years. It has already become a problem, it excites the minds.

It was clear to us that it was impossible to storm Shahan-kai with a cavalry charge, as their predecessors had done. The wall raised many questions. How to survive a week in limbo? It will be difficult to do this on ordinary stirrups and platforms. How to get down from the highest overhang zone, if the need arises? Where and how to sleep? From a hundred meters or more, going down to the tent for the night is no longer cost-effective. I have to sleep on the wall. However, the old-style soft hammock is inconvenient for this wall. And then we had the idea to make a hammock on a rigid frame with a hitch on three hooks. This novelty removed almost all questions at once: in such a hammock on a shelf, you can stand, sit, lie, insure, work, sleep, listen to music from the receiver - in a word, live on the wall, which is what is required. If you attach a rain cover to the top of the hammock, you get a small suspended house.

Of course, they will laugh that we are carrying a cot with us, ”Pavlotos said. - but I see no other way out.

Yes, Shaan-kaya was breaking the usual notions of climbing. If a bolt hook came so that you could walk on smooth walls, then a hard hammock - in order to live on negative ones for a long time. New challenges often require new equipment.

I remember what enthusiasm in the Mountain Club was caused by the decision to storm Shahan-kai head-on. Everyone felt that they had gained enough experience, that they were already ripe for big things, everyone was eager to fight.

True, at some point, disputes suddenly arose about the legality of the bolt: it allows ordinary climbers to pass any walls; with it you can get out of any position; it impoverishes the ascent, erases its spiritual values, interferes with the achievement of the highest ideals ...

You might think that the bolt hook, by its very appearance, removed all the dangers of mountaineering!

Even the judgments of eminent people were given, in particular the Italian Walter Bonatti: “I do not want to choose for myself such a form of mountaineering or such methods of climbing that would give a guarantee in advance of successfully passing any wall, thereby depriving the joyful feeling of victory as a result of a harsh and dangerous combat with nature ”. Gorgeous said!

It is good to talk alive, not knowing the opinions of those who died in the mountains: they would have expressed themselves on the ethics of climbing, taking into account their own experience.

What guarantees in the mountains can we talk about, relying only on the accepted, albeit most reliable, method of climbing? A person gets into an aggressive environment there. Everywhere something hangs and threatens to collapse: living stones, slabs, snow, ice, and the paths of the falling masses may well intersect with the paths of human movement. Mountains are always fraught with danger. Is always!

Of course, hitting bolts where you can do with slotted ones is bad taste, but making them illegal is too much.

Then what about Shaan-kaya, which cannot be taken at all without such hooks? Don't take her? But can the soul of a true climber endure the smug sight of a wall not taken by anyone!

We cast aside all doubts: Shaan-kaya will be attacked in the center, along the most worthy, beautiful and logical path, the best on its surface. Who will go?

I figured there would be no crush on the wall. However, in addition to Pavlotos, Misha Reznichenko, Yura Ganchev, Valery Likhachev, Volodya Kulyamin, Alik Mironchuk and other club climbers were eager for it.

It was necessary to select only three, because the most reliable scheme of movement on Shaan-kai was given by a three: one walks, two belay, sitting in hammocks located at different heights. The belay is carried out with two ropes working through different hooks: one through the even ones, the other through the odd ones. Having hammered fifteen pitches, the top climber hangs up his hammock and sits down in it on the belay. The one who was on the lowest hammock comes forward, and everything repeats again. The ligament will move like a caterpillar, sometimes contracting, then stretching. Losing the rope from the pitons located between climbers is not allowed. The bitter experience was taken into account: during the assault on the western wall of South Ushba in the sixty-fourth year. Then Timokhin, a participant in the first attack on Shaan-Kai, snapped out the rope from several hooks in a row - it was difficult to pull it out - and, upon a fall, created a jerk that cut and pulled out the rest. Partner - Artur Giaukhovtsev - was thwarted, both climbers, flying two hundred meters, crashed.

After the training climb on Ai-Petri, the final composition of the assault group Pavlotos (captain), Reznichenko, Ganchev was finally determined. Why they?

Valery Pavlotos, a 26-year-old designer of the technical department of the Yalta film studio, was out of competition. The idea of ​​the assault came from him, he was the first to "wind up", followed by the rest. But not only this gave him a special right. He was a brilliant rock climber, champion of the republic, an unsurpassed master of Crimean mountaineering. I walked several walls with him and I can assure you that I have never met a more reliable partner. He immediately saw when it was hard for his partner, and was always ready to take on the piled up difficulty. As a true climber, he saw all the sweetness of climbing in the ascent itself, without giving of particular importance categories, titles, mountaineering competitions, which was especially valuable in the situation with Shaan-kaya: the wall was taken outside the framework of the championship.

Nineteen-year-old lighting technician of the Yalta film studio Mikhail Reznichenko was a multiple winner of the republican competitions in rock climbing. The tendency to analyze, the desire to get to the bottom of everything, to explain everything made his presence in the group simply necessary. Balanced, calculating, sensitive to danger, he could warn anyone, especially the impetuous Pavlotos, from taking too risky a step. He was a restraining start in the group.

Twenty-year-old builder Yuri Ganchev is the champion of the Crimea in rock climbing, a man of iron composure. I don’t remember that he ever got angry or scared of something. Athletic, lightweight, sociable.

For the first time, I did not get into the assault team, taking on general leadership exit and safety net.

Almost all of the club's climbers - boys and girls - were involved in the expedition, making up an observation group, a rescue squad and other units.

We prepared thoroughly. From the moment we made the decision to storm, we were spinning under the mountain every day - we made it psychologically. Shaan-kaya was measured, and all the details were applied to its diagram, made on a scale of 1: 100. Up to 90 meters, the wall was steep, higher - with a negative slope. The average wall angle is one hundred and ten degrees, the maximum slope is one hundred and fifteen. The highest point hung over the base twenty-eight meters. Each hook was plotted on the diagram, the actions of each climber during each day were described, the location of the hammocks at the overnight stays was indicated.

The following equipment was prepared: two hundred and fifty bolts, twenty-eight bolts, eighty carbines, forty-five three-stage ladders, three rigid hammocks, two walking platforms, three hammers, two main ropes of sixty meters each, two auxiliary ropes of the same length, sleeping bags, mattresses inflatable, radio station "Nedra-11", transistor receiver, canister with water, etc., etc.

According to the plan - the beginning of the assault on November 6, reaching the top of the tenth.

At the end of October, a bolt hook was tested: the jerk was made by a stone weighing eighty-five kilograms, dropped from a height of ten meters with a rigid attachment of the rope. The rope melted in the knots, the hook held out, the eyelet broke. Strengthened ears.

On the evening of November 5th, thirty climbers of the club camped near Shaan-kai. Eleven tents, glistening with slopes, were placed on the terrace. An observation post with a telescope and a radio station was built on a rocky boulder overlooking the pine trees. From NP to the wall about three hundred meters. Alik Mironchuk, a man of exceptional organization, was appointed as the chief observer.

November sixth. Pavlotos was the first to step onto the wall. He struck the hooks quickly, with a kind of frenzy, as if the energy accumulated in him had finally found its way out. His harsh commands echoed loudly over the forest. A dozen white three-step ladders swayed in the wind beneath him. Having fulfilled the norm, he went down, losing the lead to Reznichenko. The yellow wall began, By seventeen o'clock the second climber had hammered fifteen pitches and approached a large blotch (peeled plate), then went down a little lower, to the twenty-fourth hook, and hung on it a forty-meter speleological ladder raised on a halyard. Descending down it, he dropped the lower ladders along the way. So far, everything has been going according to plan.

He worked as the third on the wall of Gan - this is how the guys called Gancheva, loving. From the blows of the hammer, the blotch hummed menacingly, I had to go around it on the right. However, the darkness - the November day is short - forced Ganya to come down soon.

So, the groundwork was made - fifty meters. The assault team slept in the camp, enjoying their last night on solid ground.

On November 7, on a holiday, the Simferopol link Vyacheslav Pantyukhin - Alexander Larionov went up the Shaan-kai wall along the left slotted route, which had climbed to the camp the day before. We were pleased with this: two groups working side by side on different non-competitive routes usually create a good working mood for each other.

Today Gan is again ahead. He was belayed, sitting on the site, Valery. Our novelty has gone into action. The first hammock was hung under a patch, a mattress, a sleeping bag, and equipment were lifted onto it on a halyard. Having settled down in a hammock, Pavlotos lowered the spent Ganchev down, took Misha to him and went up on his belay. Met another blotch, walked around to the left. Yes, these humming slabs make you circle on the wall, arrange slalom, which, of course, was not part of our plans.

At dusk, Pavlotos hangs up a second hammock and settles down for the night.

Ghana is lucky: another night on earth. Simferopol residents, having processed the bottom, also spend the night in the camp in a tent.

On the eighth it was cold, cloudy, and at times fog came over. Climbing the forty-meter ladder, Gania took it off the hook, held it in his hand and ... threw it. Everyone watched as she, whistling in the air, flopped onto the talus: the way back was cut off. Gania climbed onto the upper hammock and released Valery forward. The three on the wall now looked exactly as we drew it on the diagram: two in hammocks are belaying, the third is rising.

However, the ascent for some reason sharply slowed down. What do they have there?

Hey, on the wall, get in touch! - I shouted from the NP.
- Solid blotches, everything is buzzing! Later they will call this place “the first buzzing belt”.

Here they are, wall jokes. Who thought about them. about these blotches ?! If you hammer a bolt into a peeled plate, then if broken, this multi-pound fool can rip off the whole three. "The guarantee of a successful passage ..." Where is she?

Do not hit the hooks in the blotches! - I shout over the radio.
- What are we, psychos ?!

Valery began to slowly move along the narrow passages between the delaminations.

Another unpleasant moment: today Simferopol residents left the route - the wall was beyond their strength.

Yes, this third day of the assault was psychologically the most difficult for the Yalta climbers: countless blotches, the flight of neighbors, the cold, then bolts began to break one after another (broke), a negative slope began. It was from this critical height that the previous climbers left the wall.

The climbers hesitated to stop and, dangling their legs, sat silently in their hammocks. Back against the wall, facing the camp. The camp quieted down by the telescope. I decided not to interfere in the situation: let them decide for themselves - up or down. They know better.

Later they confessed that each in his soul resigned himself to defeat and expected someone else to say at last: “Down”. And everyone would immediately agree with this proposal. But it turned out that no one dared to say it first. Nobody said!

Towards evening, the climbers began to stir, and I felt that they had coped with a difficult day. It doesn't matter that they walked only twenty-five meters in the third day, what is important is that they did not descend.

Early the next morning, when the whole camp was still asleep, Misha, like a woodpecker, pounded the wall. The weather was fine again, apart from strong gusts of wind. The leader managed to find a narrow strip of the monolith through the second belt of blotches. By twelve o'clock, he finished his quota and “hung up”. His hammock swayed, not touching the wall, over a hundred-thirty-meter abyss.

... It took almost two hours to lift the equipment from the lower hammock to the upper one and change the leader. There is no getting away from this waste of time: this is the pattern of movement.

Ganchev was the next to work in front. Despite a significant negative bias, he hit the pitons standing up to his full height and coped with the task before dark. During this day, almost fifty meters were covered. Not bad.

The next day began with the transfer of equipment from the Pavlotos hammock.

The observers were concerned: there was a squabble at the height.

The group is in touch! What's wrong?
“Nothing special,” Misha answered laughing and turned off.

These accelerators hit the hooks with extremely outstretched arms - I can barely reach the ladders!

Ganya and Misha decided to have fun with the captain, who was clearly inferior to them in height. These jokes made me happy - it means that the group has a good spirit, which means that the guys on the wall have completely settled down.

The whole camp huddled at the chimney - everyone wanted to see how the leader of the assault was suffering. However, Pavlotos found a way out: he began to snap another one to the upper ladder and climb easily. Ghani and Misha's faces were stretched out: the designer jumped ...

After two hours of leading, Valery went to the upper belt of blotches, to the most destroyed, as it turned out, part of the wall. He carefully tapped over himself every area - rotten rock all around.

If they don’t hold the hooks, we’ll have to retreat, ”I transmitted over the radio. - Let's try again ...

"Success guarantee ..."

Who could have guessed that such rot would be encountered on the way ... The pace of movement dropped sharply. New torments began. In some places, the presenter knocked out holes of fifteen centimeters, removing rotten rock. Only at two o'clock in the afternoon, he scored the fifteenth hook.

The group was rebuilding to get ahead of Misha; however, he did not have to work that day - the twilight deepened.

It rained at night, but not a drop fell on the climbers - it covered the canopy of the wall.

On the sixth day, Misha made his way through a rotten belt with blotches. Several humming plates, as he later admitted, had to go head-on. There was no detour, and I did not want to retreat.

"Success guarantee ..."

Until evening Gania won another twenty meters from the wall.

Seventh day of the assault. Height two hundred meters from the base. The maximum overhang angle is one hundred and fifteen degrees. Pavlotos says that the negative slope has ceased to be felt, the wall now seems to be simply sheer, only for some reason the ladders and ropes hang strangely - at an angle to the wall.

A thick fog closes Shahan-kaya for a long time. Communication only by radio. Ganya is working in front, and they reported that they have finally passed the upper belt of blotches.

God bless.

We will fight our way up until we reach the top, ”Pavlotos said.

I learn from him that the last bolts were used. Will there be enough of them?

How much to the top?
- I don't know: fog.

Only in the evening, for a moment, the white milk dissipated, and we saw the following picture: twenty meters from the top, on the right cheek of the chute, standing on the platform, Pavlotos was vigorously pounding with a hammer. Below him, about ten meters away, on the running platform sits Ganya, even lower on the only not dismantled hammock, littered with equipment, sits Misha. Two hammocks taken off swing on a halyard in the air away from the wall.

It is clearly not possible to finish off Shaan-kai in a bright way: less than an hour is left before complete darkness. But Pavlotos stubbornly continued to climb up. Does he expect to move at night? This is very risky.

Old man! - I yelled up, forgetting about the radio. - Stop, you can grease the ending! No answers. It can be seen that all three were determined to break free from the wall today - they do not have the strength to endure such stress.

Make another sleepover on the wall! - I shouted into the microphone. - Hang up the hammocks while you can still see!

The radio was stubbornly silent. The leader persistently pushed his way up.

Once again the fog closes the group from our sight. My nerves can't stand:

The rescue squad should prepare for the exit, grab the rope.
- Why the cable? Rescue missions starting? - Just in case.

We climbed up the eastern slope of the mountain in order to establish voice communication with the group from the top.

The wind carried Pavlotos' excited cry: - Hurray, I'm going out on the shelf! And a minute later, the same voice: “Damn, this is not a shelf, this is an inflection point: the canopy has ended, the plumb line has begun.

The rescue squad climbed to the top in complete darkness. Cold, wind, fog. We have no idea what the climbers are doing on the wall.

Who has the radio? - I ask.
“They didn’t take the radio,” someone answered from the blackness of the night.
- Where is Mironchuk?
- Stayed at the base.

In these pitch darkness, for a moment, I felt with horror that I was losing the threads of the expedition's control. A slight chill ran through my body.

We are fussing here, and the assault group has probably been asleep for a long time, ”Likhachev said calmly.

Everyone should be insured for the fixed rope: next to a wall, a little stumbled in the dark - and down to Ryazantsev.

We are getting up with Likhachev to the edge of the cliff.

Wa-le-ra-a! - we shout.
- Guys!

Silence. I feel like I'm getting cold. But suddenly, somewhere near us, the quiet voice of Pavlotos:

Why are you yelling? We will spend the night.
- It would be like that, my dear. Where are the hammocks?
- With us. Let's install it now.
- Do you need help?
- Why? We're all right.
- What perly: balls on the forehead ..?
- I wanted to wash.
- You might think that the lice have seized you ... Arranged a sprint!

I wanted to chat, grumble: it was soothing.

And on the morning of November thirteenth, the entire expedition camp was at the top: they were waiting for the stenoviks to come out. Having scored the last twelve hooks, Misha got up first. Ganya was the second to come out, the captain was the last to leave the wall. First steps on solid ground. All three are rocking like astronauts after zero gravity, especially Misha. Cine cameras chirr. Victory rockets are flying into the sky.

... Sixteen years have passed. During this time, several attempts were made to repeat the route. But unsuccessfully. Even ready-made bolts did not help. The reason for the failure is the same: the followers did not have our training or the obsession that the pioneers had.

What did Shahan-kaya give you? I asked Pavlotos.
- I always feel this mountain behind my back. She helps me to come out of all sorts of troubles with honor. She is my dignity.

And I thought: it is not necessary to “make” dozens of mountains - you cannot change everything, but you must definitely have one serious one, which would hold you captive for a long time, when, in the struggle for life, all the rudiments would wake up in you and every cell would pray: “Hold on ”- and, having survived the ascent, you would go down refreshed, renewed, like a god, and would look at the world with maturing eyes.

The rock seemed to have broken off from the main mountain range and slid down to the sea.

The northern slope is rather gentle. And the southern slope is very steep with a negative slope. The height of the rock is 871 meters.

Mountaineering competitions are often held on the southern slope of the Shaan-Kai cliff. The difference in the height of the wall is 250 meters. Several routes of the 6th category of difficulty have been laid along the wall. Recently, she was chosen by "jumpers" - rope jumpers.

If you notice an inaccuracy or the data is out of date - make corrections, we will be grateful. Let's create the best encyclopedia about Crimea together!

The rock seemed to have broken off from the main mountain range and slid down to the sea. The northern slope is rather gentle. And the southern slope is very steep with a negative slope. The height of the rock is 871 meters. Mountaineering competitions are often held on the southern slope of the Shaan-Kai cliff. The difference in the height of the wall is 250 meters. Several routes of the 6th category of difficulty have been laid along the wall. Recently, she was chosen by "jumpers" - rope jumpers. Save changes

Shaan-Kaya (Nishan-Kaya, Ishan-Kaya, Target) is a strongly overhanging peak not standing from the Ai-Petrinskaya Yayla near Alupka. Translated from the Turkic Shaan-Kai (871m) means "Falcon Rock", accessible only to falcons. The drop of the wall from the southern side is about 250 m, the northern slope is more gentle.

Translated from the Turkic Shaan-Kai means
Falcon Rock.

Shaan-Kaya is a cult mountain for Crimean mountaineering, only a few routes go to the top, and almost all of them are as difficult as possible. The cliff of the mountain to its entire height consists of very strong light gray massive and only in places indistinctly layered recrystallized Upper Jurassic limestones. They formed on the shelf of the shallow bottom of the Tethys Ocean about 130 million years ago. It was a warm sea. Limestones were formed from the skeletal remains of organisms that lived at the bottom of this ocean.

Mount Shaan-Kaya - popular place climbers

Mainly from the remains of coral and lime-producing algae. Later, the organic remains were compacted and recrystallized under the influence of the pressure of the overlying rocks (which did not survive) and turned into very hard limestones. A small number of cracks in these rocks, on the one hand, makes the Shaan-Kai wall resistant to rock falls and talus, and, on the other hand, creates certain difficulties in its passage on rocky routes.

Limestones emerged from under the sea level and acquired their present position as a result of mountain educational processes that created the Crimean Mountains on the site of the former Tethys Ocean. Climbing routes on Shaan-Kai require a fairly high level of preparation - route categories not lower than 5B according to mountaineering classification, the level of climbing on some routes reaches 8b. Due to its complexity and rebelliousness, Mount Shaan Kaya is iconic in mountaineering and rock climbing. This mountain has not yet been ascended by free climbing. ... Several difficult routes have been laid along the wall:

1. Route Grishchenko (right) 5А, F6а +, A0, 260m
2. "Sofia", 5B, VI, A2. 275 (M. Chaplinsky I. Nedosekov S. October 12, 2008)
3. Shaan-Kaya, 5B, 6b, A2 (A. Maksimenya)
4. Grishchenko's route (left) 6A, VI, A2
5. Samurai 6A, F6c, A3, 290m (A. Shelkhakov - D. Popov, 2001)
6. Zenit 6A (V. Pavlotos)
7. Hyperborea 6A, F7a, A3 +, 300m (V. Yarechevsky - V. Marunich, 2001)
8. Galitsky route 6A, VI, A3, 305m
9. Pianissimo (6B extra F6b / 6c, A4, 280m) M. Volshanovsky, A. Rushkovsky, K. Gostev
10. Atlant-M F8a + / 8b, 250m (A. Vedenmeer, 2004)

Atlant-M is the most difficult multi-pitched (several pitches) climbing route in the CIS, preliminary its category is estimated at 8B, length is 220 meters. (In Crimea, the French system of classification of climbing routes is used: the simplest - 5A, the most difficult - 9A) You need to pass it along the natural relief, without additional support points and without additional devices, that is, on the arms and legs. His equipment - punching with bolts, cleaning from "live" stones - took almost a month of work by a whole team of climbers and rock climbers.

The diagram illustrates the system of the Alupka-Simeiz paths

Gathering information about the Shaan-Kaya rock, we found an old Crimean legend about it, which is called "The Bird of Happiness from Falcon Rock" /legendof.crimea.ua/. For the first time this legend was printed in A. Konchevsky's notes in 1929. Its plot is borrowed from other peoples, in whose folklore there are also motifs of happiness in the form of a bird, which is not easily given to a poor person.

Shaan-Kaya is a fantastic sight.

When you look from afar, it is lost against the background of the high main ridge. Crimean mountains, but the closer you come to it, the more severe it looks. When you stand directly under it, the wall hangs over, covering half of the sky. She grows out of the earth among pine forest... It is worth seeing with your own eyes. Coordinates for those who want to see the place where the most difficult route begins - "Atlant-M" N 44 ° 26.103 "E 34 ° 01.180" and admire the rock below.