the main Som. Regulations on the icon for climbing Belukha. Climbing Belukha or how I escaped death from a log cabin in the snow and gas burner

Regulations on the icon for climbing Belukha. Climbing Belukha or how I escaped death from a log cabin in the snow and gas burner

Citizens of the Russian Federation, foreign countries and stateless persons who have climbed into the highest mountain peak of Siberia (Altai) - Beluha Eastern (4506 meters) and have a confirmation of climbing from: LenalPTURS Guides, Instructors Mountaineering, having an identity of an instructor of mountaineering, employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Ak-Kommic PSS.
The "For the Climbing on Belukha" icon was established by ZAO LenalpTurst, the Alpinism Federation of St. Petersburg, the Alpinism Federation of the Altai Republic in 2006. The awarding of persons who committed, is made on the application of the climber in accordance with this Regulation, starting in 2006.
Description of the icon "For climbing Belukha".
The icon "For climbing on Belukha" has a certificate and number. The climber is awarded the icon and the attached certificate indicating the number and name of the waters. The icon has an oval shape. On the front side of the icon, in the center of the white color of the snowy contours of the northern wall of the white array on the background of the blue sky at the top and on the background of the blue image of the lake with an account at the bottom. The icon is originated by the image of the climbing rope with the icebalem and attached to the carabian delay.
Inscriptions on the icon:

on the blue sky - " Skender", Just below - the flag of the Russian Federation and the numbers - the height of the Eastern Vertex Beluha -" 4506 »
on a white background of contours of the Beluha array - " Beluha»;
on the blue background of Lake Ak-Who - " Uch - Summer"(Translated from Altai Language -" Three Wees ").

On the revolving side of the icon - the sequence number.

The rewarding of the "For climbing on Beluhu" is produced on the USDER hostel (Republic of Altai, Ust-Koksinsky district, the village of Tungur), in the office of ZAO Lenalpours (St. Petersburg, ul. Rebells of Pya.4), in climbing events, Participant of which is "Lenalpours".

The "For Climbing on Beluhu" icon can be equated to the "Climber of Russia" icon. The East Bellucas Ascent Program includes brief practical classes on the technique of moldings and safety on the route, the passage of two classified mountain passes. Tools of ampinism

The persons awarded the Icon "For Climbing Beluhu" are obliged to respect the mountains, travelers and comply with the norms of nature ecology.

The cost of the icon "For climbing Belukha" in 2008 - 300 rubles

The exclusive right to manufacture the icon "For climbing on Belukha" remains for the company ZAO Lenalpours

Changes in the present position have the right to make the founders of the icon solely with the consent of LenalpTurst CJSC

Located in Altai, on the border with Kazakhstan, Mount Beluha (4509 m) is one of the most famous vertices in Russia. The Akkem Gorge, from which most mountaineers begins, is popular with tourists because of the unique nature, wonderful species, and the associated legends.

The classic lifting path to the top is classified as 3a. The routes of this category require some technical skills, which, with a big desire, can really master in 1-2 days of classes. From the Russian side, Beluhi's slopes have a northern exposition - therefore, here you need to have good physical training and be prepared for the fact that even the summer will have to work at temperatures before -15. This Beluha is very different from four thousandths in the Caucasus and in Asia - the climate here is much more severe.

When choosing an equipment to climb on Belukha, you need to remember that the roads ends with a kilometers 50 to the base camp. It turns out that the equipment should approach both for long-term transitions in the rain (in Altai, heavy rains for several days are not at all uncommon) and for hurricane winds and in winter strong frosts. And in the backpack you will have to fit the products, special and wretched gear. Honestly, the task is not from the lungs.

The peculiarity of the climbing on Belukha is that all this event looks more like a tourist campaign, rather than on ordinary climbing fees. Here you will not return with short exits in the stationary camp. Almost every day begins with fees, laying all the equipment in the backpack. This moment also needs to be considered when choosing equipment.

Behind Belukha go in winter and summer. And this is a completely different mountain. Equipment does not differ much. The following list is designed for summer climbing. In winter, accordingly, a sleeping bag is warm, winter carpet, double climbing boots, and in sneakers you, of course, do not come down. If you are going to Belukha in winter, to the list below special equipment, it is worth making some amendments. We specifically noted those elements of equipment that differ from the summer set.

Clothes, Shoes, Protective Equipment

	It is advisable to take two sets: Slim heat underwear from Polartec Power Dry tissue for approach. In case of hot weather, you can also have a T-shirt. Dense thermal underwear from Polartec Power Stretch type material - for climbing and, perhaps, for a very bad weather approach
Breeches or Pants of Light Fabric	Need to approach. Another option - wear shorts over a thin thermal power
Pants and sweaters from a thin fleece	Fleece acts as a basic insulation layer
Membrane jacket and pants	As written above, it rains in those parts are not uncommon. Gore-Tex-based clothing about the most wear-resistant and impenetrable.
Light row or jacket with synthetic insulation	If you already have a good powder, it is quite possible to do, and do not buy analogue on a synthetic insulation. However, keep in mind, the row can get into the approach in a few days. So that this does not happen, the row should be kept in a high-quality handmade and not put it in bad weather without a membrane jacket, before entering the glacier.
Socks	Two or three pairs (set) sock. Choose specialized model for trekking above the boot of the boot.
Buff (buff)	In case of strong wind or sun burn. You can use Balaklava, but most of the ascent will be too hot.
Cap
Sunscreen	With high protection factor
	The road to the foot of Belukha passes through the forest path, with a very difficult relief. Refusing a full-fledged spare shoe, you can easily lose the chance of climbing. Firstly, in case of bad weather, climbing boots can get rid, and they will be very cold on the glacier. Secondly, even with good weather, mountain boots always rub corn, even in conventional climbing fees. Here you have to, barely coming out of the bus, make many hours of transitions every day. Both of these problems can solve light trekking boots or sneakers. The main requirement for such shoes is the presence of a rigid sole, with a tread suitable for movement under a backpack, on complex relief. Trekking sneakers are usually lighter and more comfortable, but if you have problems with ankle, it is better to use lungs or even medium trekking boots.
Alpine boots	For the glacier on Belukha, classic climbing two-wing boots will be suitable. For example, Scarpa Ortles GTX, Zamberlan 2090 Mountain Pro GTX, ASOLO ACONCAGUA GV. If the shoes are not new, before departure, they must be treated with impregnation that gives moisture-repellent properties.
(with stock)	When climbing, Belukha has to work in very different weather conditions. Modern multi-layer gloves with membranes can remain dry after the day of work on the glacier. However, even a bit of done gloves dramatically lose moisture protection properties; They are hot and inconvenient to work at the positive temperature. In addition, it is impossible to exclude the possibility of loss of gloves - in such a situation, the importance of a spare pair will be difficult to overestimate. For the climbing on Beluhu, it is advisable to have one pair of multi-layer gloves with a membrane (Arcteryx Zenta Ar or Rab Guide) and a pair of light gloves from windproof material, such as Marmot Evolution. In addition, in the days of the approach, it will not be superfluous to have a couple of protective gloves, like Camp Axion Light, BD Crag Glove, or more comfortable Phenix Trekking 2 BK.
	They are lanterns.

Personal special equipment

	Minimum 60 liters. Before choosing a backpack, it is worth clarifying the conditions of the abandon. Some firms offer to throw most of the cargo to the lake Akkem (2-3 walks) on horseback. In this case, the Baul is best to have 70-100 liters, and the usual assault backpack is 40-50 liters. The backpack will be needed for carrying things necessary for overnight during the abandonment and, of course, during the climb. If a slack is planned without horses, then the universal backpack can be recommended, which will be used for the abandon, and for climbing. It must have a volume of at least 65 liters, with a small one's own weight. Very by the way there will be a well-thought-out suspension system. This volume can significantly speed up the daily camps. In addition, practice shows that when height from 180 cm, this backpack can be used even on technical ascents. Although, of course, the backpack is less suitable for the peak assault.
Mustache Samostrakhovki

Trigger	If you work with your ropes, it is better to "basket" (BD ATC-GUIDE). To work with old rigid ropes that can hang guides, it is better to have the usual "eight".
Cats with antipodlips *	The presence of antiprodlip on the extended summer snow-ice route is required! For the climbing on Belukha, there will be quite lightweight aluminum cats, like GRIVEL Air Tech, or more wear-resistant GRIVEL G10. * For winter it is worth choosing a more technical model - for example, Petzl Vasak.
Ice ax *	Optimally to take a light ice ax, such as CAMP CORSA. * On winter ice, lightweight ice axes can be a real curse. With them, even the cabin of ice for cooking can occupy more time. Therefore, it is worth having something more intense - the classic models of the ice axes will be just right. (GRIVEL NEPAL SA).
Helmet	Preferably lightweight model, for example, Petzl Meteor helmet.
Vent.	The strapping also makes sense to take a lightweight. Light, but fully adjustable gazebo Petzl Aquila.
Karabina	The optimal set of carbines for climbing Belukha: CAMP HMS Compact. HMS Carabiner - specifically to work with trigger. Kong Ergo Screw-Lock. Need 2 pieces. Excellent carabiner for the mustache of self-insurance - light, but with a large stroke of the latch, provides a good opening of the carbine. Kong Heavy Duty Screw Lock. In order to be used in a bunch directly, without the use of special techniques, it makes sense to use durable carbine, withstanding the load of at least 10 kN. In any circumstances. Black Diamond Ice Clipper. Auxiliary carabiner for raising ice equipment. For the beluga there will be enough one thing. The leader can have two.

Personal Equipment for Bivak and Trekking

Tourist mat	Take care that there will be overnight stays in the snow. The self-adhesive rug is compacting the foam and provides better thermal insulation, but it must be transported inside the backpack and take care of punctures.
Sleeping bag	Extreme -20. For climbing Belukha, it is best to have a sleeping bag of high-quality synthetic material. The climate there is quite wet, while every day you need to pack a sleeping bag in a backpack and he does not have time to dry. And whether the executives of the event will make a rest day before entering the glacier and climbing - a big question. For this reason, a fluff-out sleeping bag here is a very risky option.
Tent	Carry it for a long time, so it is better to choose the easiest four-season tent.
Thermos	The optimal volume is 0.7-1 liters.
Head Torch	The group should have at least one powerful flashlight for night orientation, for example, Petzl XP, BD Storm or even better BD icon. The rest of the participants can do with lanterns easier (Petzl Tikka + or BD Cosmo)
Trekking sticks	Need a sufficiently durable model with a slight weight. Compactness in the assembled form is not as relevant. It is quite suitable for the time-tested model Black Diamond Trail. It is very desirable to have enlarged rings with you so that the sticks do not fall into the snow - otherwise they can be very quickly broken.

Almost three days needed rescuers to get to the Kemerovo tourists who were blocked in Belukhi glaciers on the border zone. Participants of the rescue operation told SibNet.ru why the help had to wait for so long as climbers survived without a tent, as they welcomed their rescuers and why they did not return to civilization in the end.

Last Friday, weather forecasters distributed a storm warning for mountain altai, and on Saturday the weather spoiled sharply. On Sunday, August 12, from the Ust-Koksinsky district, where Belukha is located, the rescuers received the SOS signal.

Four Kemerovo came to contact on satellite telephone and told that 4.1 thousand meters were blocked at an altitude. The strongest wind broke their tent and burned out the equipment that could help them go down at least to the Lake Akkem, where the seasonal rescue post is located.

To get to them from the post on foot rescuers would have to have about three days, the situation was complicated by bad weather - it was raining here, turning into the snow, blew a strong wind. It was decided to send a helicopter for the mountaineers, which on Monday arrived in the Altai Republic from Kemerov and waited for a few days on departure. From the airport of Gorno-Altaisk, the aircraft flew only at 16.00 Tuesday, but after three hours of tourists filmed from Beluhi.

The most complex route

Tourists turned out to be no longer young and fairly experienced climbers, the most young of them are 48 years old, the oldest one - 53 years. They overcame one of the most complicated ice-rock routes - categories 5a, while the most difficult category 6b is considered. Rescuers are not gods: how to go back alive with Altai

Men planned traverse (passing two or more vertices, and the descent from the previous vertex should be held in the direction of the subsequent) of the three vertices and should have climbed to Western, Eastern peaks and the peak of the Crown of the White Mountain.

"Four tourists were sitting on Western Plateau. There was a lot of cloudy, pilots worked coolly. At first they flew above the clouds, then dived into the so-called window, and managed to get to a disaster. They flew on the helicopter, they took them, descended to the Akkem Lake, to our rescue base, "said the rescuer of 1 class of the Altai search and rescue squad Yuri Schwartz.

Welcome - Welcome

According to one of the pilots, the head of the Aviation Department of the Siberian Regional Center of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, Sergey Zubova, the operation was regularly, but the cloudiness interfered with the work, which kept around the mountain peaks. But the wind, which caused the CP, was normal.

"The clouds were around the whole mountain, including on the landing site. Having exceeded and excess - the height of four thousand one hundred meters. It was a platform covered with fresh snow. When landed, a cloud was formed, I had to be very clearly withstanding the place, but I managed to sit very close to tourists, "said the pilot - the only pilot in the Krasnoyarsk Aviation and Rescue Center, which has tolerance of flights to large heights.

The pilot explained that the heights of more than three thousand meters are considered complex, the car becomes an inert, unmanaged and, as a rule, there is no place for landing. And this time it was not possible to fully plant a car for loading people. In the mountains, two days went snow, it was poured more than a meter, it was slippery. In touch mode, the crew held a helicopter until the tourists plunged their belongings and rose on board themselves. The rescuer assistance was practically not required, clarifies the Siberian Regional Center for EMERCOM of Russia.

According to the Zubov, the preparation for the operation was not long - there was long waiting for the departure permission: "We waited a long time for the weather, the Beluha Mountain was closed for two days, the window appeared today, and we managed to do everything in 3.5 hours."

Falling to the mountain, the rescuers were looking for climbers no more than 15 minutes. Because of the cloudiness, the vertex had to fly in a circle, tourists noticed on one side. With a rescue post, a man from Sundays came into touch every three hours, and therefore they already knew what they were flying. To the arrival of the board, they wrapped out on the snow feet Welcome - Welcome.

Refuge in the snow and gas burner

All this time, tourists were located at an altitude of 4.1 thousand meters above sea level. They had warm things, the stock of products and a gas burner, on which they melt snow.

"Since they broke them the tent, they buried in the snow, made the cave with the help of her residues and lived in this place. They had food, but gas ended - only half of the cylinder remained. If today we could not remove them, I would have to do without hot, "Schwartz rescuer said.

He added that tourists were physically weakened, they had to spend their strength and heated their asylum, also ended the food. The temperature at this height was zero to five degrees of Claus, at night, lowered to minus 12. However, frostbite, according to the rescuer, did not threaten. Medical assistance in the end did not need any of them.

Often, tourists go to complex routes, without having calculated their forces, often allow some errors that can cost a person life. However, here, according to Schwarz, the intention of circumstances played a major role.

"In bad weather, everyone can get, regardless of whether he prepared by a tourist or a beginner. Of course, they had to be tight. It is good that everything ended well, "the interlocutor concluded.

Violators?

Back to Gorno-Altaisk rescue vessel returned to the tourists who were driven out of the Western, they remained on the seasonal rescue post from Lake Akkem. The fact is that the border of Russia and Kazakhstan passes through an array of Beluhi. According to the representative of the power structures of the region, the tourists went to the cross-border zone without special pass. And on the seasonal rescue post at the foot of Belukha, border guards were already waiting for them.

"At the entrance to the Ust-Koksinsky district at the post of border control, they informed border guards that they were sent to Tomsk parking, but they themselves went much higher, where the five-kilometer border zone is located. They were worth not to mislead the employees of the customs post, but simply make a pass, "the source said.

Now the climbers threaten administrative proceedings and fine. However, they fell into trouble and remained alive, and this is already a great luck. Just a week ago, with the top of the Aktra, two climbers from Novosibirsk and the Kemerovo region were broken on the North Chuji ridge, the resident of Kuzbass could not survive.

And three years ago, in August 2015, when climbed into a small actor, four experienced climbers from Tomsk died on the Middle Degree route. They ignored the warning about the deterioration of the weather and frozen to death on the slope after it went raining and very cold. The help was not able to come on time because of the bad weather and the coming darkness.