Report on climbing Elbrus. Mount me not all: climbing Elbrus from North, Report Elbrus Report

photo Pavel Bogdanov - www.pavelbogdanov.ru

Step number 5: in the mountains!

I flew to Pyatigorsk a few days before departure to the mountains. It was the right decision. As part of the participants in the campaign, there were several local, so almost immediately after settling in the hotel I was lucky to inspect the sights of the city. So the legends about the hospitality of this region is the truth.

One of Pyatigorsk's main attractions is Mount Beshtau, which rises 1400 meters above sea level. It opens a breathtaking view of the city. Despite the small height and ease of lifting, I, I confess, almost died: a terrible shortness of breath, pulse under 200. Only one thought in my head: "What else is Elbrus, if I can't climb such a small slide." Subsequently, I watched the same condition in several participants in the campaign, which were in the camp almost immediately after the aircraft. It turned out, the whole thing in acclimatization. Just need time to get used to height.

And another plus of my "early" arrival: at the entrance to the city there is a large shopping center with two specialized shops. In one of them I took everything you need to rent and bought part of things.

The next day we went to Kislovodsk, or rather in his resort park. It is considered the second in the area in Europe, so it is almost impossible to bypass it in one day. There are routes for the treatment of cardiac and vascular diseases. Yes, you did not hear. It is the routes called "Terrenets". The doctor conducts an inspection and instead of tablets appoints walks in the park, the purest mountain air and Narzan. There are only 6 programs, length from 1700 to 6000 meters.

Early in the morning with all things we gathered at the railway station. There I first saw all my comrades on the campaign, including guides that have checked our gear. We plunged into buses (there is still all-wheel drive "Gazelles"), along the way, drove into the nearest rental point so that someone take the missing, and went on the road. On the road, I fell asleep, and when I discovered my eyes, it turned out to be in another world. The road went on the mountain serpentine. Opened simply crazy views.

Before the camp, we could not be understood, so after we were unloaded, we had to go through a few kilometers. Moving me the flock of rams, followed by elderly jigit on horse.

Because of the sharp change of height, some did not feel very well. By the way, one of the "tricks" of faster acclimatization is movement. It is advisable not to sit still, do not lie in the tent, but go for a walk.

On the way to the camp we passed through the Polyana Emmanuel, named so in honor of General G.A. Emmanuel, the head of the expedition, first reached the vertex of Elbrus on July 23, 1829. We walked the same route as the same days as the first successful expedition to Elbrus, only 186 years later.

Symbolically, is it not true?

"1829 from July 8 to July 11, a camp under the command of General from Cavalry Emanuel"

Continuing to go picturesque routes, surprised by the absence of civilization, people, mobile communications and rapidly changing weather, we reached our first camp. He was at an altitude of 2600 meters in Jil-Su (translated into Russian means "warm water"). This is an incredibly beautiful and interesting place. It was here that we saw Elbrus for the first time.

The camp himself was a few fenced grid of territories. There was a generator and several blocks in which the commandants of the camps and the rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations lived. In the camp sometimes included electricity, there was a shower, kitchen, toilets. We put tents, distributed to groups, appointed duty and engaged in other household issues. And all this time, by every cell of his body, I enjoyed views, air, expanses, feeling with sandstone surrounded by majestic mountains.

Small points on the left - this is our camp.

Surprise evening. It was necessary to prepare dinner and, naturally, I was first called. The menu was not the most diverse, but satisfying and helpful. We dined and went to sleep in our tents.

The surprises began with the fact that I woke up at 5 in the morning. For me, this fact is amazing, since I owl, and usually wake up late. So happened every day. But this fact was impossible not to refresh. It remains more time for admiring stunning landscapes. Just imagine: on the one hand, the rising sun, on the other - Elbrus. Cow chinno graze in the valley. And around all-consuming silence.

Early in the morning we had breakfast, took some food, water and went to watch the surroundings. They did not rise in the mountains, as it was not yet comfortable tolerated this height. Nevertheless, the day was very saturated: they went to the Sultan Waterfall. The power of the natural element could not impress us. The proximity to her fascinated. From some slit in the rock, the source beat. It turned out, Narzan. Roasted and tasty. I tried not to drink a lot. The body is so overloaded with a height, so it's not worth frightening it and unusual drinks.

Passed through Kalinov Bridge - a natural stone arch, which hangs over the water at a height of about 15 meters. Of course, it was swimming in a nasal bath, as a natural "jacuzzi". Baths contribute to improving the work of cardiovascular, nervous and musculoskeletal systems, as well as connective tissues and digestive organs. You need to take a bath stationary: gas bubbles cover the entire surface of the body, it becomes warm, and closer to the end of a 15-minute session the skin on the body bluses, burning, as if you swept the nettle.

Late in the evening, tired and satisfied, we returned to the camp. He had dinner and went to sleep in anticipation of a new day.

On this day, we had a more serious acclimatization output. At first they reached an interesting place called "German airfield." Thanks to the unique relief, this place was used as a real military airfield during the Great Patriotic War.

Then they went even higher at a height of approximately 3100 to the place called "stone mushrooms". We were taught to use the treeking sticks, walk on boulders, stones, breathe correctly.

It was interesting to observe how nature was changing with the rise. Bright colors faded, giving way to muted shades, Flora became poorer because of the stone soil.

The output was sufficiently heavy. But I helped (who would have thought) an ordinary ascorbic.

The day ended in the base camp, household matters, a cup of Bulgur for dinner, and, of course, strong sleep.

According to the plan on this day, we had to throw some of the things in our "top" camp - at a height of 3700 - and then go back to spend the night at 2600 in the lower camp. But since the group felt good and we were afraid to miss clear weather, it was decided to save one day and immediately climb with everything you need (tents, food, gas cylinders). Excess things guides advised not to take with them.

I gathered my backpack, seized part of the social meal, several gas cylinders and was horrified by his weight. Such a heavy backpack I have not raised yet. We moved away. One of the girls immediately pulled a bundle on his leg. As she could get up, I did not understand. Apparently, women are really rustier than men. In the hike, as well as in the race: before going out with backpacks, you need to do a serious workout, and after the harness. I had no injuries, no stretching, no pain in the muscles in the morning.

We walked almost on the same route as yesterday, just already loaded with backpacks. Specially moved slowly, in a single rhythm. It is believed that so much easier to go uphill with a heavy backpack.

The vegetation disappeared almost completely, we walked along the huge black boulders. Sometimes they swung under the foot. Sometimes rolled out. Amazing how fast the body gets used to changing the situation! For a couple of days ago, I would never have passed on such stones without insurance, and now I was also a huge backpack

It became noticeably cooler. The ice between the stones was already visible in the places.

After 7 hours of such a lift, everyone is very tired. We tried to support each other. Personally, I strongly helped awareness of the fact that many girls go almost with the same heavy backpack as me. By the way, it was on this lift that I felt all the convenience of my backpack and light trekking boots. The weight of the backpack somehow slyly redistributed on the hips, the back was ventilated, the shoes did not slide on the stones and did not braid each other.

On the way we passed the Ministry of Emergency Situations. There we were drinking tea and we rested a little.

To get the camping away from the popular trail, it was necessary to go further through the glacier. I had to put on climbing boots for the first time. And somewhere around 9 hours of the way, we finally reached the place of our second camp.

It was a braid from a black volcanic stone (Moraine) in the middle of the glacier at the foot of Elbrus. The view was unique. Some alien: ice, stones, wind, clouds floating under their feet. Although we are so tired that we still have already. In addition, we were first at an altitude of 3,700, and each step was accompanied by a breath. Some of the tents put the tents, boiled water, quickly snaps and quickly climbed into the tents to come to themselves. The condition was strange. Furious and nervousness was felt, it was difficult to concentrate on something. I was looking for something thirty in a backpack, someone wandered for a long time next to the tent. Probably, we ridiculously looked from the side. So our brain acted a lack of oxygen. From the last strength I climbed into the sleeping bag and instantly fell asleep.

According to tradition, I woke up at 5 am. The head was clear and calm. I got out of the tent: under me there were clouds, and the Elbrus hung from above, glowing in the rays of the rising sun. We dressed in "cosmic" clothes: in membrane jackets and pants. Despite the fact that they are light and thin, it seems that you go like in a safe, as they are not blocked. Well, probably, the height acted as a fantasy.

After breakfast, we went to the acclimatization outlet, at a height of 4500 to the cliffs of Lenza. We learned how to wear cats, rides the rope and went on the road. It is almost impossible to go fast at such a height, and, as it turned out, it is harmful.

After several hours of climb, a strong wind blew up, and the sun was hidden behind the clouds. It became much colder. I had to warm.

Czechhard with temperature continued. The sun came out again because of the clouds, the wind verse was hot. I overheated in warm clothes. Yes, and accelerated the step to reach the place of the privala faster. And then I felt that such a mountain sickness or, as it was also called, the "mining". The state resembled poisoning: nausea, cotton legs and sharp weakness. I changed clothes, lookedched on a prival, I got a tea and ate ascorbing. It became easier. When they returned to the camp, as if nothing wrong was. Conclusion - it is better to go slowly and slightly chop than quickly and overheating.

On the way to the camp they saw an interesting cloud of an unusual form, which was rapidly moving in our direction. And literally after 10 minutes it covered us, persecuted by strong wind and snow.

The camp returned at about 18:30 and the remaining evening was engaged in domestic issues, rested, and thought about the upcoming climb.

We were given a holiday day. We had to gain strength before climbing. You know, I am definitely lucky with the team. It is impossible to miss her. Despite the strong wind, we even were able to play cards

Our guide went to the Ministry of Emergency Situations to find out the weather forecast. To find in the mountains - it is very important. It often happens that bad weather is worth a week, and no matter how well you were ready and equipped, the ascent is impossible. In the mountains you are in the power of the elements, compete and compete with which akin to suicide.

We were lucky. Weather forecast was optimistic. Plus, the full moon began, and this is a good sign. So it was decided to use a chance and start at the top tomorrow. Immediately the camp was excited. I, too, was very excited, did not even think that I could fall asleep. Everyone began to gather, as we leave the camp we should at night.

I went to the tent, quickly gathered a storm backpack, so as not to forget anything, decomposed the necessary things on the pockets of the jacket, dragged the boots to the tent, climbed into the sleeping bag and prepared to suffer from insomnia. I did not believe that I could fall asleep at 6 pm in such a state. But somehow quickly fell asleep.

At midnight, our waited for a very early breakfast or extremely late dinner. To whom how best to call it. I ate a buckwheat (one of the best food options before climbing), poured boiling water in a thermos and spread it instead of the isotonic tea (sports drink that provides water, carbohydrates and minerals in it).

When the fees were finished, we rides the rope and went into the darkness. Silence was interrupted only when it was necessary to jump over cracks in the glacier. They say their depth comes up to 200 meters. At about 5 o'clock in the morning we met the dawn on Elbrus's slope. Stunning spectacle.

At about the same time, we joined three MES rescuers. They walked a little behind and looked at us.

At about 6:20, we made a short hat at an altitude of 4500 (Lenz's lower cliffs). In the very place where 2 days ago I became bad. I hardly listened to my body and (oh, miracle!) There were no signs of the pottery. I was delighted, but I did not relax, I intently controlled my body, tried to calm the pulse and breathing. Removed ropes from themselves, as there are no further cracks, and you can not go into a bundle.

The serious height, the lack of oxygen, one-dimensional rhythm and the pace of movement, the same swinging back in front of the run entered me into the trance state. It was difficult to estimate the time. It froze. Sometimes I raised my head, assessed how the top approached and again I was convinced that she seemed to be inaccessible.

So, slowly we reached the upper cliffs of Lenza (about 5000 m). At this height, the Emergencies Ministry Rescuers strongly recommended some of our team not to rise further, as they noticed their signs of the beginning "pregnancy". The rest went on. We have left to overcome the "Eternal Dome". This is a gentle snow slope, followed by the top of Elbrus, deceptively attracted his proximity.

I started to feel strange. I did a step, I thought to three and did the next one. Probably it sounds strange, but I walked exactly with such a turtle speed. Amazingly, but in this constant pace, I began to overtake the other participants. I turned on my favorite music that ran and trained for Elbrus. The impact of height on the body has changed. I felt some kind of pleasant feeling of euphoria, excitement, intoxication. There were thoughts in the head that it was important for me: family, relatives, friends, colleagues. Step - memories. Another one is a picture of the past. Music intertwined with them in amazing unity.

Suddenly at some point I realized that besides a person going ahead of me, nothing else. The weather spoiled sharply, a strong wind blew up with snow and further than 15 meters there was nothing visible. The situation is not very comfortable to put it mildly. I went on the most "man ahead." So we reached the edge of the volcano (Elbrus is a cooled volcano) and, as it were, it is believed that we climbed it. But somewhere further was to stand a memorable obelisk, whose everyone is photographed, and we went further.

The wind intensified and blew right in the face. I tried to turn away from him and almost crashed into that same monument. There were several of our participants around him. The guide patted me on the shoulder and made some photos.

So, at about 12 pm on July 28, I climbed to the eastern vertex of Elbrus, a height of 5621 meters.

I just began to comprehend emotions, but from somewhere there was a rescuer of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and ordered urgently descend due to storm wind. Adrenaline began to be frantic, new forces appeared, the head began to work clearly and clearly. In general, I felt excellent. It was much easier to descend than to climb, and the weather began to improve.

At about 18:00, we got to the camp and climbed into the tents to translate the Spirit. Then sat down drink tea and eat. Almost no one was talked, but comprehended what happened.

Again 5 in the morning. Since we are tired of stones and ice, and in my head, then there were memories of our first camp, we asked the organizers to return to the lower camp. There we were waiting for green grass, warmth and tasty food. By 10 in the morning we turned the camp and went down. The road was also difficult, but the anticipation of the camp attached strength.

When we got to the camp, almost the whole group experienced forensic bliss. And you know what? We drank the cold cola on the jar, which someone was able to buy camp at the commandants. We decided to disassemble the backpacks and again put the reluctance camp, so after a few hours the transport came to us and took us to Pyatigorsk.

I just ended the rain. When we rode along the road, under which the kilometer gap gap, right under us we saw 3 rainbow at once. I first saw it. Usually, to admire this natural phenomenon, you need to high down the head. The driver (Highlander, poorly speaking in Russian) turned on Joan Osborne - "One of US". We suddenly finally realized what a cool adventure was turned out. And that we are a team, each of which posted 200%. Very bright feeling. We joked, laughed, rejoiced, hauled snapshots. It was almost night when we settled into the hotel. Reaching the mirror and urban clothing, everyone noticed that they looked. My scales have shown minus 6 kg.

I did not want to sleep, nor other members of the group. And we went for a walk through Night Pyatigorsk. They drank Tarkhun from street vehicles, talked, admired the beauty and identity of the city. We went to the restaurant to finally eat ordinary food. They ate on a piece and all ... It was good that at least you thought did not eat more, but to take with you - you need to go back to ordinary food smoothly.

The next morning I gathered, passed the things that took to rent. Then he went to the airport and after a few hours I was with my family, telling them about one of the most unusual holidays in my life.

P.S. We continue to communicate and meet with our group. Such a rest really allows you to find new friends!

A source: kooolinar.ru.

In search of equipment for your first ascent to Elbrus Sergei Maamsin from Koolinar.ru came to the Alpinendustry advice on Pervomayskaya, 18. Tatyana Kosinskaya equipped the waters from the legs to the head, and we hurried to take a promise from Sergey that after climbing he would share his impressions. As a result, Sergey Maamsin wrote a detailed report with an abundance of beautiful photos. Be sure to read all who plans their first climb, and not only.

photo Pavel Bogdanov - www.pavelbogdanov.ru

Interesting life, full of paints and bright emotions is available to everyone. And this thought is not taken from the field of fiction or book of children's fairy tales. Adventures are worthy each. They are already inside, all the perplexed, when they will be given will. And we find them in all areas of your life, preparing a delicious food, playing with children, going to work or on vacation. This is the "Formula of Happiness", following which, you will find yourself in the most amazing places: even at the top of Elbrus.

Sooner or later, in a series of working days, before every person, the question arises - how to spend your vacation. There is a lot of desires in the head: and the decimal change, and beautiful landscapes, and the lack of contacts with the outside world. Fucking in the stool of these thoughts, I came across stunning photos telling about climbing Elbrus. I involuntarily put myself at the place of the main character, presented how every day the nature changes in front of his eyes. The arrow in the mountains with emerald grass the next day turns into snow, ice and clouds floating under their feet. It is amazing that feeling this contrast is possible without a flight by plane or the use of any transport.

Contrast natural locations. Different physical conditions: the feeling of heat of the sun's rays, next to the cold and penetrating wind. A compressed number of days. Maximum contradictory emotions.

photo: Pavel Bogdanov - www.pavelbogdanov.ru

I was wondering if I could or not, as he would lead herself in an extreme situation. I wanted to see the new world, another culture, romantics that "live" by the mountains, as well as make an act that my family will be proud of.

The decision is made - I will go to Elbrus.

Step # 1: Guide Search

The choice of outdoor activities requires professional management. That is why the search for a guide is the most important point of preparation for climbing. From this later, many factors will depend on: whether everything is easy and safe, which equipment is suitable for his program, how many days to take a vacation and so on. Based on your experience, I can advise the following:

There are several options for climbing Elbrus: the most popular from the north and from the south. Each of them is interesting and good. I will only say that from the north is longer, and from the south - more comfortable: there are lifts, communication, hotels, ragners (approx. - Snowproofing machine on the tracked move used to prepare ski slopes and ski trails).

I chose the northern route. He is considered "wild." You only have legs, backpack, tent and your team. You do the way from the foot to the top. Higher and higher. It would be distinguished from the rest to which I used to.

1. Lower camp. 2580m. Coordinates 43.42955, 42.512067 | 2. German airfield. 2870m. Coordinates 43.416296, 42.494514 | 3. Stone mushrooms. 3150m. Coordinates 43.402778, 42.498889 | 4. The base of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. 3750m. Coordinates 43.38916, 42.477222 | 5. Upper camp. 3750m. Coordinates 43.385240, 42.490427 | 6. Lenz's lower cliffs. 4600m. Coordinates 43.352778, 42.465833 | 7. Top Rocks Lenza. 5300m. Coordinates 43.355278,42.457778 | 8. Eastern Top of Elbrus. 5621m. Coordinates 43.346667, 42.453889 | 9. Western Top of Elbrus. 5642m. Coordinates 43.352778, 42.4375

After selecting the program, the guide gives recommendations for training and equipment, introduces you to the group. The very fact of choosing such recreation implies certain human qualities, a positive attitude. When we met the group, I was just convinced. Now I can say with confidence that I am proud of each of them. We were a real Syankic team from all ages, complexes and levels of physical training. But all of us united optimism, which ensured success in climbing. Among us were even those who were completely out of sports. Of course, they were not easy. Nevertheless, it did not become a barrier. I understood one thing: only optimism pushes you forward.

Step # 3: Physical Training

Do not be scared, it is not as difficult as it seems, so it is better not to neglect this item. Preliminary physical preparation for climbing will make your trip much more pleasant. You will be less distracted by little things like shortness of breath, and you can immerse yourself for a hundred percent to the Space Aura of Elbrus. Optimally start training for three months before the campaign.

Cardiography

• The main load during the climbing in the mountains is imposed on the heart and lungs. Since there is little oxygen in the air, it is necessary to drive a much greater amount of blood through the body than usual.
• Better and more accessible cardiography than running, just did not come up with. If you since childhood hate this lesson, start running at least one kilometer every other day. You will be surprised how quickly get used to this load. A couple of months of regular jogs, and you are almost ready to climb.
• It will be a good indicator, if by the time of the trip you can safely run ten kilometers away. In order to do regularly, I, for example, signed up at the school run. And as a result of simple and fun workouts - I ran a half-marathon of Sochi 2015.

Power training

• Do not combine one day and running on a long distance, and power training. If only as a five-minute workout. During the preparation for a hike in the mountains, it is logical to focus on the muscles of the back and legs. The initial stage is to bring the body into the tone. Make the whole range of exercises, but with low intensity. When you feel that you are ready for more hard loads, it makes sense to divide the exercises: in one workout you swing your back muscles on the other - legs. Listen to your body, and he will thank you during the climb.
• The network has many good exercises. As an option - daily squats of 100 times. Not immediately, but for several approaches, but you need to come to this figure. If this load is given too easily, feel free to wear a backpack, put a five-liter water bottle into it - an excellent additional load will be released.
• If you can, try to visit the pool once a week. This sport has the right load on the whole organism. Plus to everything, swim - it is fun.

General health

Preferably:

• start hardening. For example, lean cold water in the morning.
• normalize food. Closer to the campaign is better to abandon alcohol and coffee, eat right.
• take multivitamins. Sports nutrition can help well.
• take prophylactic measures against the "mountainous disease" (or "mining", as it is also called). On the Internet there are many tips and funds (the same polyvitamins, dietary supplements and so on). Drink them or not - to solve you, but to familiarize yourself, and also details to understand the symptoms of mountainous disease, I recommend.

Step No. 4: Equipment, Clothing

When I began to search for a list of things necessary to climb things, it did not lead to anything good. I lost, hitting the hurricane contradictory information. In other words, it was the first acclimatization.

I confess, for me this question has become one of the most difficult. First, depending on the route and the month of climbing the list of personal equipment varied. Secondly, none of them indicated specific models. When I tried to choose the appropriate, then about the same shoes could differ in price a few tens of thousand rubles. Thirdly, I stumbled into absolutely opposite opinions about the same brand.

I spent several weekends for learning. And the time was pressed. Before the start of the campaign, one week remained, and I had nothing but an understanding that "equipment and clothing is very important." As a result, I went in, probably, the largest specialized store of Moscow. Tatiana consultant was four times on Elbrus. At that moment it seemed to me that I was in the hands of the guardian angel.

She carefully asked me: about my route, the days of climb, whether my hands and legs hurt, as far as I'm going to go to the mountains. Hearing that, perhaps, this experience will be the only one, she suggested not to buy most of the expensive gear, but to take it on the hire. Others, she picked up so that they could be used in everyday life. Try to use the shares. Many brands make big discounts. In my case - Patagonia. The seller assured that this is a high-quality brand. Although I was more influenced by another argument: Patagonia makes clothes for special forces.

Why am I so scrupulously approached this? If everything is correct to choose - it will greatly facilitate climbing. And if on the contrary, turns the trip to the cautious, may even make it impossible. I am absolutely convinced that the equipment at times increases the pleasure of the hike in the mountain and helps to avoid unpleasant stories.

So, about two hours I was fully staffed to climb Elbrus from the north. We bring a detailed list with links and your comments on the use of:

Big backpack for 70-90 liters - Alpamayo

I really liked. You can adjust the volume. There is a mini-backpack for water (my 6-year-old son immediately selected). The fabric protects perfectly from rain. The main branch of the backpack can be quickly reached through side zipper (approximately as in the suitcase). It is very convenient, since the weather quickly changes in the mountains, and it is often changed. Also liked the side pockets on the belt belt: the phone, the camera and food for the snack will always be at hand. The most important thing is a comfortable spin system from a plastic frame with ventilated channels and adjustable belts. As a result, despite the fact that my backpack was very difficult (I could bare him into the car), on his back it was enough to carry enough and comfortable.

Transport Cover - Deuter Flight Cover

Due to the straps and fasteners, a large backpack at the airport can calculate with oversized cargo. And demand for it is a very substantial surcharge. The shipping case completely solves this problem, and also protects against dirt, water and fasteners from breakdowns. This is important, since if the belt clasp will break down during the flight, support for the back will stop working, and the load will be much harder.

Small backpack for small outputs and climbing 20-30 liters - Hyper 22

Someone does not take a small backpack, limited to only one basic. I think it is still needed. He will use you:

1. At the airport, on the road, when access to a large backpack will not be. It is possible to put valuable things, documents, water, charging from the phone, the camera and other personal belongings that should be constantly nearby.
2. On acclimatization outputs.
3. During climb. To go up with a big backpack (even if there is almost nothing there) - it's still more difficult. It is not an option to go without a backpack - not the option: on top you need to take a warm jacket-gun, thermos with tea, warm pants and cap, camera, lightweight snack, tanning cream.
4. Of the advantages of my backpack: it is very light (only 488 grams) and comfortably sits on the back. From small minuses - he has pockets on the belt, which, according to my feelings, is designed for a child. On my waist, they were closer to his back, and I could not use them. I also did not figure out the lacing. Before the end of the campaign in my head, thought was spinning - "Why is it still needed."

Tourist mat

You have to spend several nights at an altitude of 3740 meters. Minus temperature, around the snow, which means that it is more suitable inflatable or thick (about 2 cm) a special rug. I had Ridgerest Solite (Large). There are no complaints about it. But my neighbor on the tent was a special heat-reflecting inflatable rug, which was more comfortable, softer and occupied less space. At the same time, it was much more expensive, and it is advisable to use it only in a tent so as not to pierce.

Sleeping bag

For climbing to Elbrus, a winter sleeping bag is needed. It is important that you are not frozen at night, since in conditions of lack of oxygen and increased physical exertion it will be important for you to restore and acclimatize. For the "comfort temperature" -10-15, the typical weight of the synthetic sleeping room will be 2 - 2.5 kg. I had Snow Leopard Long. Never a Merz. The kit included a compression bag. This cool device allows a huge sleeping bag to pack very compact.

Tent

Usually, tents provide the organizers. Therefore, I was given to one of the participant of the campaign. Requirements for tents are wind resistance, capacity (greater - better), low weight and presence of a snowy skirt.

Headlight

Climbing usually begins at night, and without a lantern can not do. And it is better not to take Chinese.

Thermos

He took Taller TR-2402 to 1 liter. He was very useful for me in the camp, and when climbing. The one who did not take him strongly regretted. I didn't like only push-button cork mode. A couple of times I was hung in a thermos tea from the kittel along with a weld. As a result, she clogged into a push-button cover, and she stopped closed. I realized that when the thermos fell in the tent and poured my sleeping bag. Therefore, it is better to take a simple liter thermos with a metal flask and a conventional screwing lid.

Tracking sticks. Black Diamond Trail

It is very important to capture them with you, since without them it will be hard. I liked me comfortable and reliable clamps for adjusting the length, as well as the fact that they were telescopic (easy to transport in a backpack).

Sunglasses

Need necessarily. In the mountains you need to escape from ultraviolet. Plus the rays of the sun are reflected from the snow, and you can simply go blind. And with strong wind, the snow will fly into the eyes. Therefore, glasses need to be purchased with a degree of protection of 3 or 4 and they must well lay down to face. I had Julbo Whaops with a degree of protection 3. I liked everything.

Safety system (need only lower binding)

Took at the box office. As far as I know, they are all plus-minus the same.

Chemical heights

If it is completely cold, then it is possible to warm up legs and hands with a disposable chemical warmer. They are flat or sticky as a plaster. Before entering the assault, stick them directly to the socks or insert into the mittens and the next 6 hours of your feet safe. They are very cheap. In addition, it will be useful in ordinary life. Their only difficult to buy them in the summer. At least I was able to buy only for hands. And not in vain.

Mug, spoon, bowl, knife. All this should be easy - for example, from special plastic; Do not take ceramic circles and enameled dishes.

Personal hygiene items. Paste, shampoo, soap better take a small volume.

Documents and money In a hermetic package.

Water tank (1 l). It is better to take a light plastic flask or a sports bottle. It is desirable with an attachment loop.

Sidushka.

Several large polyethylene packages. Always need to pack something or protect against rain.

Shoes - one of the most important points

Based on the Internet read and understood in practice, there are 2 options.

Option One - Buy warm and easy climbing boots. You can get to the first camp in ordinary shoes, for example, in any sneakers. And already on all other ways, where you will walk on the rocks and glacier, putting on climbing boots. Plus, in this version, I saw only one - you save the place and weight in the backpack. Minuses, as it seemed to me, more.

Option The second is not to buy climbing boots, but renting them in Elbrus. At the same time buy trekking sneakers or light tracking boots.

Of the advantages:
- Serious save money.
- Tracking sneakers and shoes will always be useful in the city. They can go to the park, ride a picnic, run in winter.
- They are very pleasant and comfortable to go to the glacier.

Of the minuses:
- In the box office usually give outdated and inexpensive models. They can be more hard. And you will have to drag this weight in a backpack to the glacier.
- Most likely, they will be dewned. This is not very good, since, perhaps, the soft lining is erased, which increases the chance to graze the leg.

I chose a second option. As a result, it's not a single corn, never froze and comfortably walked in them on the ice. Although how to walk in them on the stones, I still can not imagine.

• Drifter A / C® MID Waterproof took the tracking sneakers. Lungs, do not wash, the sole of Vibram, the leg breathes, the ankle hold, they look good, you can also go to the city. In general, I liked it.
• Any inexpensive slippers without separation of fingers (without jumper). In order not to wear boots when you need to run out of the tent for 5 minutes.
• Hamashi (lanterns). We need so that in the climbing shoe from above the water, snow and dirt. The shoes themselves are practically not wedged, but if you fall into the snow on Calen, then without a hammash snow falls asleep inside. I had Alpine. Arranged to everyone.
• Cats. They need to be selected depending on your climbing boots. They were given them in the box office.

Personal first aid kit.

1. Sunscreen. It is best to buy 2 or 3 small tubes with maximum protection. And to rush on your pockets of different jackets. So the probability that the cream will always be near, more.
2. Sunscreen lipstick. Due to the strong sun and the lack of moisture, many of the lips began to crack. This problem easily solves sunscreen or hygienic lipstick.
3. Patch. And bactericidal, and the usual in the roll.
4. Analgin in tablets - 1 package.
5. Coal activated - 1-2 packs.
6. Smacks.
7. Remedy for colds (Coldrex, effect, etc.)
8. Ascorbic acid. 30 tablets. Well helps from mountain sickness.
9. Succinic acid. 30 tablets.
10. Panangin 50 tablets.
11. Anesthetic. For example, "Kathetonal" or "Naz".
12. Wet bactericidal napkins. As much as possible. An indispensable thing.
13. Bandage sterile.
14. Elastic bandage.
15. Polyvitamins.
16. Think about sports nutrition. I took what is used in running on long distances: isotonic and energy gels. Very useful.

CLOTHES

• Term underwear set. This clothing in which I was almost always. Not cold, not hot, do not sweat, you do not feel stiffness. Suitable any options besides cotton. I had Patagonia Capilene 3 Crew
• Storm jacket. This is the main jacket that will almost always be on you. It should be windproof, with a hood on tightening, easy, ensure normal air circulation, preferably with Gore-Tex membrane (this means that it does not wash outside, but breathes from the inside). The size is such that the down jacket can be put on it. My choice is Leashless. I liked everything: I didn't even blocked in the storm wind, did not wet, breathed. Many tightening and comfortable pockets.
• Jacket insulated. Perfect choice - down jacket. It reliably protects from the cold, has the best heat, weight and volume ratio. The meaning of the guns is that she can be insteading quickly, without removing anything. I had a Patagonia Men "s Fitz Roy Down Jacket. Very easy (less than 400 g) and compact. She was placed in his own pocket.
• Fleece sweater. Like thermal underwear, it will almost not be removed. Therefore, it is desirable that Polartec fabric, lightning and a few pockets. I had a Patagonia R1® Full-Zip Fleeca Jacket. I liked it very much.
• Storm pants. In general, you can say the same thing as storm jackets. Great, if you stop your pick-up pants (with zipper along the entire length of the legs, so that you can wear and remove, without breaking the boots). I had Leashless. Not blocked by the wind, breathed, not wet, were quite narrow, they did not cling to cats. The only minus - the ventilation lightning overlapped with the lower insurance.
• Light trousers. These are the trousers in which you will get to the camp and go the first half of the campaign. I bought Borderless Cargo Reg Pants. Beautiful, comfortable, but I didn't like it in the mountains. When we climb the mountain, they are constraintful in the knees. As a result, I switched to another option: Term underwear and shorts.
• Warm pants. I bought atom Lt Pant, at the same time, at the same time never put on them.
• Socks. I had 3 pairs of special trekking socks of Lorpen. They are warm and made so to divert moisture and minimize grace. Also, I had some ordinary grandmothers woolen socks. They were very comfortable to sleep.
• Warm hat. A hat from the fleece, Paula or Windstopper (not blown away by the wind). I had a 6pk PowerStretch Beanie. I do not like the caps, but I liked this. It from some very gentle and with warm material. It is done so that if it is very cold, it can be twice, and thereby make even warmer.
• Scarf Bandana. Can replace the cap. And if necessary, either protect against wind, or cover the neck from the sun. I had a FORCLAZ Dry Quechua, and all arranged for everyone.
• Balaclava. Need not to frozen face in the wind and do not burn. I have Bula dusk printed. Good, but it is better to buy another to buy another. In Balaclava, I chuckled. Some have seen a wont Balaklava. And it was breathing much better.
• Gloves. On the climb, you will almost always be in gloves. Measuring hands and legs are the most common cause of nonsense. Therefore, they must be comfortable and so warm. I have - The North Face Redpoint Optimus. I liked everything. The only moment - they were not enough for heat. In addition, I took Sivera Omeshi. Despite their subtlety and lack of insulation, they were not blocked at all and did not wet. At the same time they "breathed" and the hand did not sweat. Plus they had a comfortable tightening. As a result, the hands became much warmer.
• Conventional construction gloves. Take a couple. In any case, they will use you in the camp and with actimization outputs.
• Normal urban clothing. She should not be a lot. I took with myself synthetic shorts and a T-shirt (synthetics easier and quickly dries), cap, trekking light boots.

Step number 5: in the mountains!

July 20

I flew to Pyatigorsk a few days before departure to the mountains. It was the right decision. As part of the participants in the campaign, there were several local, so almost immediately after settling in the hotel I was lucky to inspect the sights of the city. So the legends about the hospitality of this region is the truth.

One of Pyatigorsk's main attractions is Mount Beshtau, which rises 1400 meters above sea level. It opens a breathtaking view of the city. Despite the small height and ease of lifting, I, I confess, almost died: a terrible shortness of breath, pulse under 200. Only one thought in my head: "What else is Elbrus, if I can't climb such a small slide." Subsequently, I watched the same condition in several participants in the campaign, which were in the camp almost immediately after the aircraft. It turned out, the whole thing in acclimatization. Just need time to get used to height.

With Beshtau first saw Elbrus

And another plus of my "early" arrival: at the entrance to the city there is a large shopping center with two specialized shops. In one of them I took everything you need to rent and bought part of things.

21 July

The next day we went to Kislovodsk, or rather in his resort park. It is considered the second in the area in Europe, so it is almost impossible to bypass it in one day. There are routes for the treatment of cardiac and vascular diseases. Yes, you did not hear. It is the routes called "Terrenets". The doctor conducts an inspection and instead of tablets appoints walks in the park, the purest mountain air and Narzan. There are only 6 programs, length from 1700 to 6000 meters.

July 22.

Early in the morning with all things we gathered at the railway station. There I first saw all my comrades on the campaign, including guides that have checked our gear. We plunged into buses (there is still all-wheel drive "Gazelles"), along the way, drove into the nearest rental point so that someone take the missing, and went on the road. On the road, I fell asleep, and when I discovered my eyes, it turned out to be in another world. The road went on the mountain serpentine. Opened simply crazy views.

Before the camp, we could not be understood, so after we were unloaded, we had to go through a few kilometers. Moving me the flock of rams, followed by elderly jigit on horse.

Because of the sharp change of height, some did not feel very well. By the way, one of the "tricks" of faster acclimatization is movement. It is advisable not to sit still, do not lie in the tent, but go for a walk.

On the way to the camp we passed through the Polyana Emmanuel, named so in honor of General G.A. Emmanuel, the head of the expedition, first reached the vertex of Elbrus on July 23, 1829. We walked the same route as the same days as the first successful expedition to Elbrus, only 186 years later.

Symbolically, is it not true?

Continuing to go picturesque routes, surprised by the absence of civilization, people, mobile communications and rapidly changing weather, we reached our first camp. He was at an altitude of 2600 meters in Jil-Su (translated into Russian means "warm water"). This is an incredibly beautiful and interesting place. It was here that we saw Elbrus for the first time.

The camp himself was a few fenced grid of territories. There was a generator and several blocks in which the commandants of the camps and the rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations lived. In the camp sometimes included electricity, there was a shower, kitchen, toilets. We put tents, distributed to groups, appointed duty and engaged in other household issues. And all this time, by every cell of his body, I enjoyed views, air, expanses, feeling with sandstone surrounded by majestic mountains.

Small points on the left - this is our camp.

Surprise evening. It was necessary to prepare dinner and, naturally, I was first called. The menu was not the most diverse, but satisfying and helpful. We dined and went to sleep in our tents.

July 23

The surprises began with the fact that I woke up at 5 in the morning. For me, this fact is amazing, since I owl, and usually wake up late. So happened every day. But this fact was impossible not to refresh. It remains more time for admiring stunning landscapes. Just imagine: on the one hand, the rising sun, on the other - Elbrus. Cow chinno graze in the valley. And around all-consuming silence.

Early in the morning we had breakfast, took some food, water and went to watch the surroundings. They did not rise in the mountains, as it was not yet comfortable tolerated this height. Nevertheless, the day was very saturated: they went to the Sultan Waterfall. The power of the natural element could not impress us. The proximity to her fascinated. From some slit in the rock, the source beat. It turned out, Narzan. Roasted and tasty. I tried not to drink a lot. The body is so overloaded with a height, so it's not worth frightening it and unusual drinks.

Passed through Kalinov Bridge - a natural stone arch, which hangs over the water at a height of about 15 meters. Of course, it was swimming in a nasal bath, as a natural "jacuzzi". Baths contribute to improving the work of cardiovascular, nervous and musculoskeletal systems, as well as connective tissues and digestive organs. You need to take a bath stationary: gas bubbles cover the entire surface of the body, it becomes warm, and closer to the end of a 15-minute session the skin on the body bluses, burning, as if you swept the nettle.

Late in the evening, tired and satisfied, we returned to the camp. He had dinner and went to sleep in anticipation of a new day.

July 24.

On this day, we had a more serious acclimatization output. At first they reached an interesting place called "German airfield." Thanks to the unique relief, this place was used as a real military airfield during the Great Patriotic War.

Then they went even higher at a height of approximately 3100 to the place called "stone mushrooms". We were taught to use the treeking sticks, walk on boulders, stones, breathe correctly.

It was interesting to observe how nature was changing with the rise. Bright colors faded, giving way to muted shades, Flora became poorer because of the stone soil.

The output was sufficiently heavy. But I helped (who would have thought) an ordinary ascorbic.

The day ended in the base camp, household matters, a cup of Bulgur for dinner, and, of course, strong sleep.

July 25.

According to the plan on this day, we had to throw some of the things in our "top" camp - at a height of 3700 - and then go back to spend the night at 2600 in the lower camp. But since the group felt good and we were afraid to miss clear weather, it was decided to save one day and immediately climb with everything you need (tents, food, gas cylinders). Excess things guides advised not to take with them.

I gathered my backpack, seized part of the social meal, several gas cylinders and was horrified by his weight. Such a heavy backpack I have not raised yet. We moved away. One of the girls immediately pulled a bundle on his leg. As she could get up, I did not understand. Apparently, women are really rustier than men. In the hike, as well as in the race: before going out with backpacks, you need to do a serious workout, and after the harness. I had no injuries, no stretching, no pain in the muscles in the morning.

We walked almost on the same route as yesterday, just already loaded with backpacks. Specially moved slowly, in a single rhythm. It is believed that so much easier to go uphill with a heavy backpack.

The vegetation disappeared almost completely, we walked along the huge black boulders. Sometimes they swung under the foot. Sometimes rolled out. Amazing how fast the body gets used to changing the situation! A couple of days ago, I would never go through such stones without insurance, and now I was also a huge backpack.

It became noticeably cooler. The ice between the stones was already visible in the places.

After 7 hours of such a lift, everyone is very tired. We tried to support each other. Personally, I strongly helped awareness of the fact that many girls go almost with the same heavy backpack as me. By the way, it was on this lift that I felt all the convenience of my backpack and light trekking boots. The weight of the backpack somehow slyly redistributed on the hips, the back was ventilated, the shoes did not slide on the stones and did not braid each other.

On the way we passed the Ministry of Emergency Situations. There we were drinking tea and we rested a little.

To get the camping away from the popular trail, it was necessary to go further through the glacier. I had to put on climbing boots for the first time. And somewhere around 9 hours of the way, we finally reached the place of our second camp.

It was a braid from a black volcanic stone (Moraine) in the middle of the glacier at the foot of Elbrus. The view was unique. Some alien: ice, stones, wind, clouds floating under their feet. Although we are so tired that we still have already. In addition, we were first at an altitude of 3,700, and each step was accompanied by a breath. Some of the tents put the tents, boiled water, quickly snaps and quickly climbed into the tents to come to themselves. The condition was strange. Furious and nervousness was felt, it was difficult to concentrate on something. I was looking for something thirty in a backpack, someone wandered for a long time next to the tent. Probably, we ridiculously looked from the side. So our brain acted a lack of oxygen. From the last strength I climbed into the sleeping bag and instantly fell asleep.

26 July

According to tradition, I woke up at 5 am. The head was clear and calm. I got out of the tent: under me there were clouds, and the Elbrus hung from above, glowing in the rays of the rising sun. We dressed in "cosmic" clothes: in membrane jackets and pants. Despite the fact that they are light and thin, it seems that you go like in a safe, as they are not blocked. Well, probably, the height acted as a fantasy.

After breakfast, we went to the acclimatization outlet, at a height of 4500 to the cliffs of Lenza. We learned how to wear cats, rides the rope and went on the road. It is almost impossible to go fast at such a height, and, as it turned out, it is harmful.

After several hours of climb, a strong wind blew up, and the sun was hidden behind the clouds. It became much colder. I had to warm.

Czechhard with temperature continued. The sun came out again because of the clouds, the wind verse was hot. I overheated in warm clothes. Yes, and accelerated the step to reach the place of the privala faster. And then I felt that such a mountain sickness or, as it was also called, the "mining". The state resembled poisoning: nausea, cotton legs and sharp weakness. I changed clothes, lookedched on a prival, I got a tea and ate ascorbing. It became easier. When they returned to the camp, as if nothing wrong was. Conclusion - it is better to go slowly and slightly chop than quickly and overheating.

On the way to the camp they saw an interesting cloud of an unusual form, which was rapidly moving in our direction. And literally after 10 minutes it covered us, persecuted by strong wind and snow.

The camp returned at about 18:30 and the remaining evening was engaged in domestic issues, rested, and thought about the upcoming climb.

July 27.

We were given a holiday day. We had to gain strength before climbing. You know, I am definitely lucky with the team. It is impossible to miss her. Despite the strong wind, we even were able to play cards.

Our guide went to the Ministry of Emergency Situations to find out the weather forecast. To find in the mountains - it is very important. It often happens that bad weather is worth a week, and no matter how well you were ready and equipped, the ascent is impossible. In the mountains you are in the power of the elements, compete and compete with which akin to suicide.

We were lucky. Weather forecast was optimistic. Plus, the full moon began, and this is a good sign. So it was decided to use a chance and start at the top tomorrow. Immediately the camp was excited. I, too, was very excited, did not even think that I could fall asleep. Everyone began to gather, as we leave the camp we should at night.

I went to the tent, quickly gathered a storm backpack, so as not to forget anything, decomposed the necessary things on the pockets of the jacket, dragged the boots to the tent, climbed into the sleeping bag and prepared to suffer from insomnia. I did not believe that I could fall asleep at 6 pm in such a state. But somehow quickly fell asleep.

July 28th

At midnight, our waited for a very early breakfast or extremely late dinner. To whom how best to call it. I ate a buckwheat (one of the best food options before climbing), poured boiling water in a thermos and spread it instead of the isotonic tea (sports drink that provides water, carbohydrates and minerals in it).

When the fees were finished, we rides the rope and went into the darkness. Silence was interrupted only when it was necessary to jump over cracks in the glacier. They say their depth comes up to 200 meters. At about 5 o'clock in the morning we met the dawn on Elbrus's slope. Stunning spectacle.

At about the same time, we joined three MES rescuers. They walked a little behind and looked at us.

At about 6:20, we made a short hat at an altitude of 4500 (Lenz's lower cliffs). In the very place where 2 days ago I became bad. I hardly listened to my body and (oh, miracle!) There were no signs of the pottery. I was delighted, but I did not relax, I intently controlled my body, tried to calm the pulse and breathing. Removed ropes from themselves, as there are no further cracks, and you can not go into a bundle.

The serious height, the lack of oxygen, one-dimensional rhythm and the pace of movement, the same swinging back in front of the run entered me into the trance state. It was difficult to estimate the time. It froze. Sometimes I raised my head, assessed how the top approached and again I was convinced that she seemed to be inaccessible.

So, slowly we reached the upper cliffs of Lenza (about 5000 m). At this height, the Emergencies Ministry Rescuers strongly recommended some of our team not to rise further, as they noticed their signs of the beginning "pregnancy". The rest went on. We have left to overcome the "Eternal Dome". This is a gentle snow slope, followed by the top of Elbrus, deceptively attracted his proximity.

I started to feel strange. I did a step, I thought to three and did the next one. Probably it sounds strange, but I walked exactly with such a turtle speed. Amazingly, but in this constant pace, I began to overtake the other participants. I turned on my favorite music that ran and trained for Elbrus. The impact of height on the body has changed. I felt some kind of pleasant feeling of euphoria, excitement, intoxication. There were thoughts in the head that it was important for me: family, relatives, friends, colleagues. Step - memories. Another one is a picture of the past. Music intertwined with them in amazing unity.

Suddenly at some point I realized that besides a person going ahead of me, nothing else. The weather spoiled sharply, a strong wind blew up with snow and further than 15 meters there was nothing visible. The situation is not very comfortable to put it mildly. I went on the most "man ahead." So we reached the edge of the volcano (Elbrus is a cooled volcano) and, as it were, it is believed that we climbed it. But somewhere further was to stand a memorable obelisk, whose everyone is photographed, and we went further.

The wind intensified and blew right in the face. I tried to turn away from him and almost crashed into that same monument. There were several of our participants around him. The guide patted me on the shoulder and made some photos.

So, at about 12 pm on July 28, I climbed to the eastern vertex of Elbrus, a height of 5621 meters.

I just began to comprehend emotions, but from somewhere there was a rescuer of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and ordered urgently descend due to storm wind. Adrenaline began to be frantic, new forces appeared, the head began to work clearly and clearly. In general, I felt excellent. It was much easier to descend than to climb, and the weather began to improve.

At about 18:00, we got to the camp and climbed into the tents to translate the Spirit. Then sat down drink tea and eat. Almost no one was talked, but comprehended what happened.

July 29

Again 5 in the morning. Since we are tired of stones and ice, and in my head, then there were memories of our first camp, we asked the organizers to return to the lower camp. There we were waiting for green grass, warmth and tasty food. By 10 in the morning we turned the camp and went down. The road was also difficult, but the anticipation of the camp attached strength.

When we got to the camp, almost the whole group experienced forensic bliss. And you know what? We drank the cold cola on the jar, which someone was able to buy camp at the commandants. We decided to disassemble the backpacks and again put the reluctance camp, so after a few hours the transport came to us and took us to Pyatigorsk.

I just ended the rain. When we rode along the road, under which the kilometer gap gap, right under us we saw 3 rainbow at once. I first saw it. Usually, to admire this natural phenomenon, you need to high down the head. The driver (Highlander, poorly speaking in Russian) turned on Joan Osborne - "One of US". We suddenly finally realized what a cool adventure was turned out. And that we are a team, each of which posted 200%. Very bright feeling. We joked, laughed, rejoiced, hauled snapshots. It was almost night when we settled into the hotel. Reaching the mirror and urban clothing, everyone noticed that they looked. My scales have shown minus 6 kg.

I did not want to sleep, nor other members of the group. And we went for a walk through Night Pyatigorsk. They drank Tarkhun from street vehicles, talked, admired the beauty and identity of the city. We went to the restaurant to finally eat ordinary food. They ate on a piece and all ... Floored :) It is good that at least you thought not to eat more, but take with you - you need to go back to ordinary food smoothly.

July 30.

The next morning I gathered, passed the things that took to rent. Then he went to the airport and after a few hours I was with my family, telling them about one of the most unusual holidays in my life.

P.S. We continue to communicate and meet with our group. Such a rest really allows you to find new friends!

The idea of \u200b\u200bgetting to the top of the highest point of Europe appeared relatively recently, it originated somewhere at the beginning of the year. Initially, it was a dream of Tanya, but she was able to infect me and already at the beginning of the year we began to look for information how to do it. Google, I learned that everything turns out not so simple and finding a person at altitudes of more than 4000 m is associated with some difficulties ... All climbers do not know what a mountain disease is, but a resident of the plain hearing this phrase does not take into account, but in vain. This is a very dangerous thing and if it does not take action on time, then can lead to death. The fact is that at the heights of more than 3-4 km low pressure and lack of oxygen in the air, the standard reaction is headache, nausea, vomiting, sometimes it leads to such effects as swelling of the lungs, brain hypoxia, loss of consciousness of coordination and TP. There are clear rules that need to be observed in order to maximize the addiction of the body to the mining conditions. Rising not more than 1000 meters of height per day, and better even less. Therefore, the ascent to the top of 5600 m lasts at least a week, and preferably 10-12 days for complete acclimatization. Also at the top, the conditions are not sugar, the temperature may be -20 -30, blow the hurricane wind, to be cloudy to such an extent that can be seen for a couple of meters forward, so the issue of uniforms for ascent must be considered complete seriousness. After reading the experiences of an independent climb and without feeling in yourself the avid climbers, I decided to order a ready tour, where we accompany the guides and control the climbing from looking at your condition, if you don't understand what you should no longer go further, then descend down. In general, the main law of the mountaineer, as I understood for myself - to turn back in time, even if the vertex is 100 meters away from you, it is the key to salvation itself in an extreme situation. Booking a tour of the 2nd person in the company http://www.bigmountain.ru/, they received a list of outfits, which was not so small and much of it had to take on the rental, I advise anyone to disseminate this item. Thermal underwear, fleece sweatshirts, fleece pants, Warm winter jackets and pants + Another jacket jackets, on the hands on top of the mittens are put on tops (Hefty mittens) Glasses + ski mask, like protection against wind and ultraviolet, on feet Special climbing boots + Cats, self-insurance, trekking sticks, ice ax, backpack thermos, tanning cream, good headlamp., Winter sleeping bag. Taking all the winter what was at home, plunged into the car and went to the Caucasus.

corn ripe :)

sky on the road

tyrnauz village, I remembered immediately the USSR

Day 0.

We arrived from Yaroslavl to the city of Terksol per day, this large base of climbers and skiers in Elbrusye, is located at an altitude of 2000 m, they settled there at the Salam Hotel, before which they put our car for all the time of our trip.

hotel Salam

The hotel met our group - another 5 people, and everyone became acquainted with dinner. All besides us to one degree or another prepared for climbing: someone ran the marathon, someone is just an athlete, the girl is a gymnast, only we are two photographers with trained fingers :)). Meets with our guide, Albert - a stunningly silent man, reliable, in the end we learned to pull out information from it, but mostly got it from Svetlana, his wife who organized this tour. For dinner, we were fed by local Kabardian food, which seemed terribly tasty, which did not confirm later, upstairs in the shelter they were fed much better :)

day 1

In the morning, everything was dressed on the summer for the first acclimatization exit to the height of 3000 m, had breakfast, ran into the next store, found out that prices for products are cheaper than our home, bought water and gathered on the porch waiting for our guide.

Albert came, immediately said to smear sunscreen and led us according to the standard route to the observatory, sometimes cutting the serpentine road through the forest.

Albert, Sergey, Alexey, Alexey, Sasha, Sasha, Tanya.

After the city, the mountain air seems unusually clean and fresh, especially pleading the snow peaks of the mountains in the distance and I can not believe that we will soon be in this winter, which is now so far. Everyone somehow was rushed together as moose, and I simultaneously photographing the surroundings, godlessly lagged and everyone was waiting for me on privals.

habit

The next day, the situation was repeated and I already began to doubt my abilities to overcome the lifts :)Today, everyone dressed too warm and horroned. The tracking sticks helped me hard to go, unloading legs, and Thane would have interfered with her words, but it seemed to use them at the end to complete.

types of mountain Dongiz-Obun on the road

tourist trail upstairs

views along the road

lava exits frozen in bizarre

The way up was short, in a couple of hours we came to the Waterfall of the maiden braids, and they depended there at about half an hour photographing it and the surroundings.

Lyokh, comrade from under Murmansk climbed. He is generally such a northern guy, even at the glacier went at first in shorts not to mention these summer workings

Albert, our guide.

Putting the waterfall in the waterfall, went further up trying to survey somewhere Elbrus, in an hour, they arranged a halt and a snack, on which the pulse was carried out from the whole group, everyone had about hundreds other than our guide who had 50, he did not perceive this part at all Logging as a load :)

total, height 3000


the view from the place of the prival, the observatory on the left side of the frame, the center of the Glacier Seven.

I have already prepared to go further to the observatory, as we were announced that here we unfold and go down, because today we must still have to go to the rental. All my nature rushed up to this wonderful observatory, whose ball was visible from above, very close, but everyone decided to go down. It was much faster down, here I got my knees for the first time - an unusual load for my legs was affected .. we went down in an hour, and just by this time the weather would have spoiled.

descent back to the terklo.

We are rushed by numbers in anticipation of a guide who said will come in an hour, inspect our uniforms in order to tell us what is not enough and need to be taken at the box office. We all pulled out on the bed, laid beautifully, prepared for inspection. Basically, everyone had to take climbing boots, cats, tops, also who did not have carcuffs, and many sleeping bags, (we had their own). After writing everything on a piece of paper by a friendly crowd, went to the rental, where the meticulous uncle was kicked out to the street and launched 2 people to individually approach the outfit every day to try everything :) while the first group was dressed up, I went for the car and drove it to the entrance to the entrance Our Alps Schmurdyak and do not drag it in his hands. In the box office we have taken the equipment in the amount of 15 thousand (hire 7 vertices), it is for 4 days. They met on the dinner of an interesting man "Ivan Filipich" the elderly (for 70), but very lively such a uncle, head of the domain service of the Novolipetsky Metallurgical Combine (former head of the department of the Institute of Steel and Alloys in Moscow), which every year goes on vacation to Elbrus. After his stories, the excitement took possession and everyone dive into the dums we will not go around, and went to bed in such a mood :)) for tomorrow at 9 am we had to move to the height of 3,800 in the shelter with all the junk of which they scored today, but not Always everything works as planned ...

Not having time to come from friendly Georgia, where our group did, I was already anticipating the trip to the highest point of Europe - Elbrus. At the same time, on the background of simply impeccable last trip, there were certain thoughts - well, I will find a beautiful in the place where I am not the first time, where you are full of tourists, where the lifts, randics, snowmobiles, the shelters are selected from people who came to test themselves the last pieces of freedom Pleasant lifting difficulties and real climbing Bivak? At least, we did not plan to use the auxiliaries above 3500 meters.

Also, good acclimatization and regular training of lifts in the mountain is important for successful, preferably with a backpack heavier. We plan all these joys to get in the first part of our trip - Mountain Trekking in the village of Verkhnaya Baksan.

Day 1-2 [/]

So, I met at Pyatigorsk Station with a group of July 1. Previously, Dima from Voronezh arrived. We were already familiar to the previous Trekking in Montenegro and delighted opportunities again to go to the mountains together. On joys, we managed to buy products and gas before the official collection time of the group as well as a little walk in Pyatigorsk. Our group consisted of 5 participants and a guide, i.e. me. Five men and girl. Not everyone had the experience of climbing in the mountains, but everything was well ready to be ready physically, and - just excellent - morally. Very good number of people for such a trip. From the very first hour, the group developed an excellent atmosphere of the partnership, humor, healthy sports ambitions. Never during the time of the trip we did not have conflicts, no one spoke at the elevated tones with each other. I ordered transportation by telephone, which delivered us from Pyatigorsk to the top bucksan on the same day after lunch.

Trekking. We were able to warm up on a very beautiful route, held along the valleys of two rivers - Syltrans and Kirtk, and included the night near the mountain lake Saltrannel, conquest Syltran Pass and a lightweight radial access to the ridge without backpacks.

On the first night, we only slightly climbed over the village and died in mind Baksan's river near, as a local resident explained to us, a miraculous spring where water with silver content is entered into a banal metal bath. Evening by the fire, talk, acquaintance, first night in tents. For many it was the first night in the stars outside the city for a very long time.

On the second day, participants had to demonstrate all their durability, endurance and power - after all, with heavy backpacks, we had to score almost one and a half kilometer of a pretty complex relief. The trail first took place through the forest, we often drove through streams. Then came into the mediterland zone with her amazing vegetation from dwarfs twisted trees, thickets of Radodhendron, wildflowers and dispersion. Sometimes it was necessary to move on stone browsing, balancing with a heavy backpack on poorly standing stones. As the height set began to appear snowfields, the vegetation began to disappear. After many hours of hard, but extremely beautiful path, privals and snacks, losses of the trail in the snowfield and my intelligence wandering on a stone-crop slope, we still got to a height of 3200m, where we had an amazing view of the lake in front of us. There were still floors on it, the mountains around us lay the lanes of the lounge of snow, on tops higher - glacier caps. In this place, man covers indescribable mood and condition. We spread the camp on the very shore of the lake. At such a height, it was already very cool and windy, especially in the evening, so I had to get dressed and strengthen the tents with stretch marks. Also, it turned out that this place is a favorite habitat for mountain goats, which went around with whole bandages, sometimes approaching a couple of tens of meters.

In the morning, we did not refuse to swim in the ice lake and after quite long fees and visits to the sighting point above the reservoir overlooking yesterday's river valley Sylantrans Our group began to ride at Syltran Pass. The height difference here is small and the rise did not take away from our best, but delivered many joy - views from there stunning, the landscape is simply alien! After a small rest on the pass, we started the descent to the valley of another river - Kirtik, according to which we had to go back. The descent for many was not easy. In the mountains, the descent may often be harder to lift. In places it was very cool, I had to make every step with caution and help each other. Yet after a while, we found themselves in a new valley, where it was decided to break the camp at an altitude of about 3050m and arrange a half day with a radial exit.

We chose the object of his mountain excursion one of the ridges, closed "Circus" Valley of the River Kirtik. After a short, but very steep lifting on the crop slope was on the crest. There was so beautiful that no one wanted to go down. As a result, we sat at the top of about two hours, admiring the panorama of Elbrus and the surrounding mountains. Yet, closer to the evening, we went down to our camp and took up cooking dinner.

In the morning they allowed themselves to walk a little and sunbathe, after which the camp collected and moved down the valley towards the Upper Bacsan. Gradually dropping the height, we admired the views and led the conversations with the neighbors along the trail. I have already jammed somewhere on 2300, on the high bank of the river. We collected a lot of firewood, so in the evening they were able to dandate near the fire. In the same fire, Dimines socks disappeared without a trace ...)

On the last day of the Trekking, we could not solve for a long time, they had a very rich program. Therefore, they came out early and after a couple of hours went down to the village. We did not have time to eat in ice cream, as our driver drove up. At first, we drove into Elbrus village, where in the store bought the necessary products necessary for climbing. Then we went to turn to the Chegte Polyana, where in a known box office, the missing equipment was selected during one and a half hours. After consulting with local guides, it turned out that ice was exposed on the Western top and special equipment should be used to overcome the dangerous site. I had to take it. Rental is quite expensive, but there are almost everything you need for homelife mountaineering.

Climbing.

The driver patiently waited for us and took to the final point - the village of Azaau is the highest settlement of the valley. From here, the rope to Elbrus begins. This village is simply saturated with the Spirit of Elbrus, it is everywhere - in the names, souvenirs ... It has become part of the mountain and exists at the expense of the mountain. This was given a farewell plain lunch in a cafe, thanks to which we almost stayed below longer than expected - the cable closes at 16 o'clock, and we refer to 15.50)). Twenty minutes, and we have already risen from 2300 per 3500. Here is cooler, fresh. You can go further - on the chair lift to the "barrels", at 3800. But for the sake of the best workout we go on foot. On the 3800 our stay - we find a good place under a tent on a stone ridge along the road for heavy machinery - here all the time you build something, driving hefty trucks and other mastodonts. Now installed supports for the next module. As, always, mentally jammed.

In the morning they moved further - rose to the height almost 4,200, to the place known as "shelter eleven", although this shelter burned seventeen years ago. Now there is a bunch of trailers on stone cripples. In addition, there are tents. We also settled in the tents, found good platforms over CCC traps.

Not to compare the feelings from habitat at high altitude, above the clouds, in the shade of a huge volcano! I feel myself at such days some bird, Skaltoles-Albartos, who organized a temporary nest somewhere on the edge of the world in order to relax and fly further. We lived in our camp four incomplete days and three nights and to some extent managed to get sick with these stones races, the world without greens, with a fascinating view of mountains, glaciers, snow, changeable weather. We managed to catch this simple mountain rhythm with early feces and early lifts, feel this bird meteo-dependence - here we are subordinate to the sun and fog, snow and rain, wind and sun. But we were waiting for the mountain. When you see her every time, raising her eyes, over time, study to see her even through the night or veil of the clouds.

Therefore, on the second day of our "bird" life, we went higher, already without heavy backpacks. For acclimatization, we, as usual in these places, climbed to the top of the rocks of Pastukhov, where and safely fell into a blizzard. We began to take the snow, visibility disappeared to several tens of meters, and we just sat like six tightly dressed Alice in a white country of miracles ... At such moments I lost connection with what was called reality ... the beginning of July? Heat? Ice cream and beach? We are in the snow on the top and shut up from foot to the leg, whatever you freeze! After descended down, it was warm, rested. Some of us experienced that such an attack of mountain illness is weakness, the headache of many drove into the tent. Weather forecast the next day was not joyful. There was also agreed to hold another acclimatization yield and rest before climbing Elbrus. At the same time, we agreed to watch the weather.

Vertex.

And the weather again presented a surprise. In four nights we did not have clouds, it was quiet and Elbrus simply attracted the purity of their contour. We began to gather, although not all of us were physically ready to go up. The disposition was such - we dress "in combat", wear strapping, take tea, go and go up. Further by circumstances. It will be either another way out for adaptation, or perhaps an assault attempt. Although I personally did not really believe in this opportunity. First, in Alpallands, I was tightly in the head, that I don't go to Elbrus so late, secondly, the state of not all participants pleased the eye. Nevertheless, we entered the full composition at six in the morning. Unfortunately, one participant immediately felt bad and returned. The rest continued to rise. Here is the place of yesterday's highest point for us ... We make a small rest and go above. We reach the last line of civilization - this is somewhere on 4900, the place where the randics and snowmobiles come out. Next begins the infamous "oblique regiment" - in fact, it is an oblique traverse of the Eastern vertex with a permanent set of height. For an unprepared by the waters, it is already difficult to go here. Gradually began to shrink the intervals between stopping for rest, the group began to slow down, but still quite confidently risen up. Finally, we get to the traverse, and, passing between the peaks, we get to the lifting place on the Western, highest. Occasionally, descending people come to the meeting. Their kind of little to anyone can give confidence - most of the exhaust, make frequent stops, sit on the snow. But, as I already wrote, the moral spirit of our group was difficult to shake with such trifles)). We begin a steep rise to the Western peak. Thanks to the wanders perfect in the season (and twice), I feel pretty good, I watch the guys. Someone keeps well, someone goes on the will, but everyone goes and no one complains. I admire and climb on. Here is the beginning of the railing. We go separately, with self-insurance. Even for a novice climbers, this site does not represent complexity, but what should the usual city man feel here a week ago who was sitting in his office?! It is difficult to even imagine ... one by one, passed by a steep rise we leave on the hollow preterm plateau. And so, after another thirty, we achieve the vertices! Three PM. The weather quiet, cloudy, almost nothing can be seen. And yet we are here! On the top! In addition to us there is no one. The highest point of Europe is at our disposal for almost an hour. Someone laughs, someone silently rejoices. The sensations are unreal. It happened to us something that in details many of us are aware of only days and even months of life. In the meantime, we all celebrate our little victory here! Our team was able to achieve his goal. Slightly by force after forty minutes forcing the start of the descent.

No matter how surprisingly, the top almost added forces and vigorously. On the descent, our group looks better than many others - we do not fool us, we do not fall on the path in search of peace. Confidently descend down. If the climb took about nine o'clock, then the descent is slightly more than three. Go down to the camp, rest. The comrades who, who refused to climb, prepared us tea, brought Shashlyk from the cafe. Swallow dinner and rest.

Nutro start gradually gathering. Closer to the dinner let down to the lift at 3500, from there in Azaau. We are going to Chegenet and we hand over equipment. Here two participants leave the group and rush on the minibus to their trains.

Ahead of a few more days, which we spent, traveling around the Caucasus, bathing in Narzan, tasting the local cuisine, lifting the lift to Chegenet.

This trip generally brought me a lot of bright and diverse sensations, useful experience and nothing comparable. I sincerely thank all the participants of our journey for participation, good mood, vigor and willpower! See you in the way!