Ski base "Karakol". It is imperative to break the stereotype at least once and in the summer go not to the lake and the beach, but to the mountains to relax body and soul surrounded by the Tien Shan forests and snow-capped mountains

Ak - Sai Travel Company is a fully licensed travel company located in the capital of Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek. The company was founded in 1998.

In 2017, Ak-Sai Travel was awarded the title of "Best Travel Company".

Ak Sai Travel company organizes group and individual tours, both in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.


Transport is a very important attribute of every tour. Ak Sai Travel offers its own vehicle fleet for tours in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Our advantage is our extensive experience in conducting various types of tours, as well as a proven base of experienced drivers. This allows us to provide the best cars for our tourists.
We offer:

  • Tourist buses 35-50 seats;
  • Minibuses "Mercedes Sprinter" 8-18 seats;
  • SUVs - Toyota Sequoia (4x4), 4WD
  • Executive cars

Ak Sai Travel annually sets up its own yurt and tent camps in the most picturesque places in Kyrgyzstan:

  • Base camp Achik Tash (under Lenin Peak 7134 m.)
  • Base camp South Inylchek (under the peaks Khan Tengri 7010 m. And Pobeda 7439 m.)
  • Karkara base camp (Karkara gorge. Helicopter tours are possible here)
  • Base camp in the Karavshin gorge
In addition, Ak Sai Travel offers accommodation in its yurt camps on Son Kul Lake and near the Tash Rabat caravanserai in comfortable yurts with beds and maximum amenities.

Our partners are leading travel companies from all over the world. Our services are used by diplomatic missions, state and international companies, large corporations and prominent businessmen. Ak-Sai Travel is an active participant in annual international exhibitions and conferences, which help to exchange experience and attract new partners for cooperation.


Ak Sai Travel takes an active part in the development active tourism, as well as protection of the nature of Kyrgyzstan. Over the past few years, we have taken part in several environmental campaigns and launched 2 projects aimed at development active rest, as well as helping children from orphanages.



The first day
After resting, Boris and I moved under the wall of Przewalski Peak. This peak was climbed twice in 1974, but since then no one has climbed it. The way to the glacier circus turned out to be quite long. Fortunately, we didn’t have to rely too much on snowshoes, but in the icefall we wandered around the gullies. The path between the cracks was found easy, and after 15 hours we got to the flat part of the glacier. The wall soared above us by 1480 meters of drop. The sunset kept us warm for a long time - the sun was beating in the tent, so that it was warm and cozy. But this bulk in the height, where one had to climb, threatened with cold and uncertainty. On July 22 at 03:00 in the morning we started our route.
I worked 7 pitches on the ice couloir, then Boris came forward. The pitches were long because we had 60 meters of rope. Borya worked powerfully and quickly. Sometimes I made only one gap on the rope - I was so confident on the slope. And I understood that this was enough, because I completely trusted. The same as he did to me. The sun illuminated us in the middle of the couloir, but stones did not fall from the wall, because the weather had been normal for several days before. By the end of the day, we had worked 21½ pitches, and on a rocky ridge at the base of the lower "Triangle" we settled in a tent on a small ledge for the night. Boris drove me into the warm interior of the tent, and he himself settled down on the edge.


The first day


The first day


The first day


Second day
It was foggy in the morning, but we started moving briskly - two more pitches on the ice. And then we went to the rocks. They often had to work with traverses to the right. Because the idea was to go along the edge of this very bottom "Triangle". The rock was fragile, badly destroyed, with shallow cracks. But on the other hand it was comparatively warm, sometimes it was possible to climb with bare hands. The difficulty of the rocks is 5b-6a according to the French system. The mixed was not difficult - M4. But the final pitch took us straight up, and we ran into overhangs. We climbed 5½ pitches in a day.


Second day


Second day


Second day


Second day
Here we managed to find a small shelf on which they could only sit, without a chance to stretch the tent. The night was supposed to be warm, and we nestled in the open air, legs dangling in a sleeping bag into the abyss. We met the morning in a rather “major” way. The choice was - either to climb on good for belaying, but difficult overhanging and vertical blocks, or to try on the verge of falling off without a good belay to traverse to the right along the non-steep peeling slabs. We chose the first option - straight from the shelf. Climbing 15 meters is free. Then, under the cornices, I switched to AID, fortunately, there was a good broken crack that led far up. Friend after friend ... and another 15 meters of the wall was again brought to the terrain, passable in these conditions by free climbing. This pitch, as it turned out later, was the key of the route. Difficulty of the section - A2, F6b, M5.


Second day


Second day


Day three


Day three
Boris, in general, is the first to navigate the routes very reliably and confidently. Therefore, here, when he belayed, it was done so competently that sometimes I forgot that I was working on a rope. It seemed that I was walking not bound by the fetters of reality. A flat horizontal traverse of 60 m led from the station to the right ... at the end I even had to lower myself a little. And we ended up on the ice cap of a small bastion. Then they again took to the right. There were small areas of ice, but mostly there was an uncomplicated M4 mix. The difficulty arose when organizing safety points, because the past centuries have smoothed the surface, splitting it, however, into small plates.


Day three


Day three


Day three


Day four
Already in the evening, exhausted, we saw a good place for spending the night - a snow ridge protruding from the general relief of the wall. And in the dark they set up a tent on it. My friend, seeing that I was very tired, continued to selflessly expand the site until the last moment. Prepared ice for the kitchen. And then we easily heated up a lot of water to drink for a crazy day. For which we worked 6 pitches. The weather continued to pamper us with its good mood. We met the dawn on our feet, and through three M4 pitches we got to the ridge of the mountain. It so happened that we passed the wall completely in accordance with the plan - along the left side of the lower "Triangle".


Day four


Day four


Day four


Day four
Then everything was simple. We left our backpacks under a small rock, and, having contacted, moved under the bright sun along the white plane upwards. After 400 meters of the path, alternately trailing shallow, ankle-deep, snow on July 25 at 12:00 reached the highest point of Przewalski Peak. Cloudiness fell from the west, but not dangerous. Boris and I spent about half an hour on the summit, enjoying the views, feeling safe and winning, taking pictures.


Day four


Day four


Day four


Day 5
We descended to the West, to the saddle to the Tent. There in the evening they set up a tent on a flat plateau, and fell asleep without safety systems. And in the morning we began to descend along the rocky wall to the north. It would be possible to go down the ice couloir, but from above I did not find the correct entrance to it. So it turned out 14 rappels of 30 meters (half rope) on the rocks, and then 15 descents on the ice of the lower part. Borya masterfully organized self-twisting, and I hammered my hands, wrapping ice screws in rock crumbs in the ice. And in the evening, under a snowfall, we found ourselves below the bergschrund. Visibility was extremely limited, however, Boris managed to find our tracks leading to the drop. And that was good, because we completely ran out of food and gas. But now there are a lot of them. And already in the light of the lanterns, we arranged a festive feast of crackers, smoked fish and cheese.


Day 5


Day 5


Day 5


Day six
In the morning, putting on our favorite snowshoes, we briskly slipped through the icefall, and along the Northern Inylchek glacier we reached the Base Camp. Everyone there - from the head of Uncle Hudaibergen to the waitress Regina - fed us, watered us and congratulated us.

Przewalski Peak

Wild places where there are no crowds of people. Snow-capped peaks surround on all sides on the way to the foot of the peak. In this program, you will have an exciting journey to the top (4200 m.), Overcoming the pass, as well as an exciting passage through a dense forest and a visit to a mountain lake.

Day 1:

Meeting at the Manas airport, transfer to Karakol. Dinner. Accommodation in guest house.

Day 2:

Early breakfast. Transfer by car to the beginning of the route. The route starts at the foot of the Karakol ski base. Then follows a long climb to the top of the base (3040 m.) From where an amazing view of the city of Karakol opens. Ahead of us is an easily passable pass (3500 m.). Lunch on the way. Setting up a camp on a glacier under the Przewalski Peak. Dinner. Overnight in tents

Day 3:

The morning starts with breakfast. The summit is waiting for its conquerors, on this day we will climb lightly to a height (4200 m.). We take photographs for memory and go back down to the camp. Lunch. We collect the camp and go to the neighboring gorge, where there are never people, and nature is in its original form. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 4:

The final day of the walking program. Breakfast. Descent to the Karakol gorge. The path goes through dense forest and bushes. On the way we will see small Mountain Lake... At the confluence of the gorge and the Karakol river, lunch. We continue the descent, at the end of which, transport to the guest house will await us. Accommodation in a guest house, dinner.

Day 5:

Breakfast. Transfer from Karakol to Bishkek, Manas airport. Completion of the program.

What is included: What is not included:
Transfer Bishkek-Karakol-Bishkek Porter (for personal items)
Accommodation in a guest house Sleeping bag
Transport to the beginning of the end of the route Meals for the duration of the transfer
Meals during the trek and accommodation Backpack
Taxes and fees Ice Walking Cats
Tents
Carimats
Guide-translator
Cook
Porter (for equipment)
Detailed information:
Minimum height: 2100 m.
Average height: 2980 m.
Maximum height: 4200 m.
Distance: 22.7 km.
Climb: 2100 m.
Loss of height: 2400m.
Maximum slope: 56%
Average slope: 20%
Minimum slope: 18%
Difficulty level: hard

Briefly about the essence


... The upper bunk of a second-class coupe is a great place to rummage in your thoughts. The Division Bell beloved "Pinks" brutally provokes to such an event.

Suddenly, the understanding comes that now, when the entire past month irrevocably and inexorably creeps into the past, it is not events that remain in the present, not this, in general, indifferent sequence of committed actions, but something else, more valuable, incredibly voluminous, but eluding helpless verbal description, and therefore consisting in just one word. If you have read this inconceivably long sentence to the end, have not lost the essence of what is being stated and you understand me, then you already know the continuation.

They remain inside - the MOUNTAINS.

And everyone for whom this short word is not just a four-letter word finds his worlds in their palms.

They fascinate, enchant, remain photographs and video clips in the subcortex, “encode” me, while I do not notice it and only discover upon my return that I cannot but come again ... I agree to this voluntary hypnosis.

Maybe next time I don't want to write about travel. There will be other people, other Mountains, other events before and after the Mountains, but this will not change them, who are always there. They are as close to us as at first it seems that they are far away. And the point is not in the peaks, not in (oh, this is a wrong and inappropriate word for the Mountains) conquering them. The fact, how Mountains fill us and how we return from them. And in my worlds this is the most valuable thing.


Part one, descriptive.
Karakol gorge. Tien Shan, ridge. Terskey Alatoo.


The general plan of the commander was as simple as a rake: acclimatization - the front - the mountain - the front - excursion program with decomposing inclusions. The standard place of acclimatization in front of Lenin Peak (as well as in front of Khan Tengri, Pobeda, etc.) - the Ala-Archa gorge near Bishkek - disappeared as soon as the leader heard the word "Karakol". The dialogue was short-lived:
- I have already been to Ala-Archa so many times that I want to explore some other place. You haven’t been anywhere, so you don’t care where to go for acclimatization, right?
- So - we answered in unison.

If you now look at all our movements in Kyrgyzstan, then the tracks will resemble the tracks of a mad cockroach dodging the fateful sneaker.

In Alma-Ata, at the train station, we were met by a friendly travel agency "Neofit", based in the city of Karakol (aka the former city of Przhevalsk). Having successfully passed the border in the Karkara region (the border is a metal arch on the road in the middle of the steppe), having stocked up on honey in a mobile apiary in the gorge, in the evening we got to Karakol. Since everyone was impatient for the mountains, the excursion program was squeezed into the same evening.

Karakol is a very small town, standing at an altitude of 1774 m. Everything around is green, some silvery pyramidal poplars are worth something. Day and night, they sparkle with rows of white even trunks. There is a shipyard on the artificially dug Przhevalsky Bay in Issyk-Kul and, just imagine, there is a military fleet on Issyk-Kul! Here, of course, there is no one to defend against on the water, it is just that torpedoes were launched earlier, and for this, warships are already needed.

Among the attractions in the city, first of all, it is worth noting the Przewalski Museum. This is a small quiet park with alleys of coniferous trees, in the middle of the park there is a museum building and a monument on the grave of Nikolai Mikhailovich. An excellent view of the bay opens up from here. The Dungan wooden mosque, built in 1910 by the Chinese without a single nail, looks more like a Buddhist pagoda - the corners are also bent, on the facade there are Buddhist symbols, dragons and wood carvings. We did not have time to get to the Orthodox wooden Holy Trinity Cathedral, because it was too late, we had to be content with the view of the church from behind the lattice fence. The next day, after purchasing food and talking with a local instructor, a trip to the gorge was planned.

Sergei from "Neophyte" dropped us on July 20, 2007 in an unforgettable UAZ type "goat" to the end of the road, that is, to the mouth of the Teleta River (left tributary of the Karakol River). And this, neither more nor less, 25 km. We agreed to meet in 10 days there.

The path along Karakol, at first trampled and "fat", over time turns into a weak and slender. Every morning an independent herd of the finest well-groomed horses passes through it, and every evening they come back. After 3 hours of walking, we find ourselves in a wide flood of the river, which is a bunch of sleeves in the morning, and a solid lake in the evening. The principle of movement on this site is the same: despite the water, walk directly, in places ankle-deep or knee-deep in water. This is the fastest and least labor-intensive option - this fact has been found out empirically. Bypassing the “lake”, jumping with coolies on the stones and “suitcases” of the slope is an occupation for inveterate optimists and grasshoppers. This section lasts about half an hour. Then after another half hour we find ourselves on the tongue of the glacier. It is much more pleasant to walk on it - smoothly and not wet.

In the process of digging up information on the Karakol gorge on the Internet, not much was dug up. There are no “human” maps that you can walk on, there are literally 2-3 ascent descriptions. In Karakol, I managed to acquire a topographic map, an inaccurate ridge map, inconsistent advice from a local instructor and read descriptions of the first ascents of the 70-80s. Having collected all this in a heap in our heads, after analyzing, we found many inconsistencies between the four three sources of information. "Let's figure it out on the spot" - we decided and started playing scouts.

First impressions of the entrances, passes, exits in the Karakol gorge:

  1. Very powerful glaciation. Ice of all sorts in bulk: glaciers creeping, hanging, falling and lying with caps on the tops. Some of them quite often crumble and fall with loud dubbing.
  2. The sweeps of the gorge are more suitable for mountain tourists, and not for climbers. The approaches are long and "high". This, of course, allows you to gain a decent altitude, to pass acclimatization of the “elk” and “horse” types even before the ascent, but nevertheless, for mountain tourism it is just Mecca. Reel yourself kilometers through ice and rock passes and do not blow your mustache.
  3. The weather is all right. From 10 days of stay, there was no precipitation from the sky for 2.5 days. Great weather was 1 day. Either the proximity of Issyk-Kul affects, or the local climatic feature. They say that September is the "driest" time, but they did not check it themselves.
  4. The gorge, which seems to be well-known among the mountaineering environment, is for some reason not very popular. Or it was not used exactly this year and it was at this time (the last decade of July). The people were met a couple of times: some stood at the very bottom on the tongue of the glacier, at the so-called "Skazka sleepovers", others in the floodplain of the river below the glacier. Upstairs, where we lived for 10 days, moving from one corner of the gorge to another, we did not see anyone. Although some of the participants we met went to the Dzhigit. We saw the remains of their tracks at the top of the Dzhigit ridge.
However, in order. So, our small team of 4 people - Ruslan and Alexei Mukhametdinovs, already familiar to you, our leader Pavel Trofimov and me, as a free supplement and stabilizer of the moral and moral foundations of the male group - made a partisan drop across the On glacier in fog and partly rain. -Thor on the Dzhigit glacier. During this operation, one "animal" still suffered. This is where our first losses began. Ruslan unsuccessfully stumbled on the talus and through his pants tore his leg on the shins. It will take a long time for such a wound to grow, so we decided to sew, especially since we are not with someone from the crowd there, but a real maxillofacial surgeon-dentist Lech! Thus, in the evening under the On-Tor pass, where we settled for the night on the glacier, a consultation took place and a real operation to stitch Ruslan up. Upon completion of the execution, the soldier was removed to the reserve group and prescribed a passive acclimatization program codenamed "observers overnight". The argument was iron: these are only flowers - the main thing is ahead, and the striking forces must be protected for the Main Mountain.

Here at 4100, incredible things were happening on the glacier. First, there was a downpour. Have you often seen at least rain on the glacier at this height? Exactly! Our leader argued that there is no rain on the glacier (although, as I remember, I already got into such an incident in Aktru), he was very surprised, watching from the tent how the streams, carving canals, run down the glacier.

The transfer to the first parking lot took place in two stages, so the remaining three participants, having waited for a window in the wet heavenly outpourings, went down to the brilliant green for the second part of the transfer. The outpourings did overtake us on the way back. But the thought that acclimatization was in full swing from such loads comforted us and added strength.


The next point of the program was going to "something simple" and next to him in order to gain more heights for the body. In turn, geography came as a surprise after the climate. Delone, it turns out, is not only a peak and a pass in Altai, but also a peak in Karakol. Still, they loved one of the three pre-revolutionary professional climbers in our former immense country. It was for that, by the way.

Climbing the very "talus" talus to the ridge (about 4500), the tactical plans of our reconnaissance group were divided. Pasha and I climbed to the top and then traverse to the neighboring unnamed "butt". Ruslan and Leha had to sit on the ridge for an hour to lull the vigilance of a potential enemy and go back. Such a knight's move like “we went back” was supposed to confuse the enemy forces and give Pasha and me a window of good weather. Lech covered Ruslan on the way and did not give him a chance to fall from enemy bullets (the plastic boot still pressed on the newly sewn wound).

The enemy forces did not fall for the trick. The weather is wonderful: fresh, throwing snow, visibility is so-so, but it is a pleasure to climb the ruined ridge. After reading on both peaks the notes of two Tomsk residents who made this traverse in the opposite direction, we came to the conclusion that the map in this part was correct.

By gene. our plan was a minimum program: Dzhigit peak (5170 m) according to the classic 4A through an ice "shovel" and the maximum program: Dzhigit and Karakolsky (5216 m) according to the 4B classic along the north-western ridge. These are two high points district. Both routes are described with an overnight stay on the ridge. Calculating and estimating, we decided that such garish lads and maids like us Dzhigit can go in a day. According to the descriptions, the overnight stay takes place on the ridge, 1-2 hours from the camp site, in a hanging "pocket" under Dzhigit. The thought of walking for 2 hours with coolies on the powder did not warm us. We decided to break through in battle and took up a tactical plan.

If we could say something about our pace of movement along the talus and the double rocks that were to meet us on the route, then we didn’t really have anything commanding about the ice. Ruslan and Lehoy walked in Altai together on the ice, Pasha alone, I generally where and how I have to. Having doubted the advisability of training in the Brazilian system, we decided not to show off, and went to train on the ice slope in walking in troika. Timed the passage of one rope. It turned out pretty well. The tactical plan, in theory, grew together. While we were climbing down, a cloud with hail covered us. The enemy launched medium-weight artillery - hailstones the size of peas banged loudly on the helmet and hurt on the exposed parts of the body. Peas gathered in flocks and rolled down the ice slope like crumbs of foam plastic in small streams and avalanches, filling us up to our knees. Visibility has disappeared altogether. We stood steadfastly in the trenches, occasionally firing and retreating with the help of launching devices. Then the Higher Forces interceded for us, the sun came out, and a holiday began. We won another victory.

For three days of exploration, we learned one simple truth of this gorge - you can walk here only if there is at least some weather. And we hunted down, waited for her, reshaping our strategy for her.

From below it seemed that the promised 9 ropes were not on the shovel, maximum 6-7. However, in fact, there were 9 of them (even 9 and a half). True, they lied to us with steepness, frightening us with 80-degree shiny ice. 45-60 degree ice with firn on top, turning into knee-deep porridge during the day. However, our constant leader was the leader Pasha, so we, by and large, did not care - we were attached.

We crossed the "corner", into a hanging pocket from the south-west, from where the route begins. The place is excellent - behind the back slope of Dzhigit and Festivalnaya (wow, how she constantly “festivals” with stones both day and night), a magnificent view of the gorge. On the stones of the glacier, several flat sites for tents were pleasantly discovered - thanks to their predecessors.

The three of us left at 4 o'clock in the morning. I happily forgot the camera I had prepared with me in the evening, remembering this in the middle of the rash. Therefore, the pictures and "testimonies" to them are all "from the outside" when we walked under Karakol. A brief technical layout with a photo description of the route is possible.

In the evening, already at dusk, we went down to Ruslan's camp for his "overnight stays for observers." It's so nice when someone is waiting for you and preparing tea for you. The minimum program was completed.


Go to next place deployment, as usual, was carried out under the cover of fog and light rain. We went down almost to the end of the On-Tor glacier to the “Skazka overnight stay” (it is interesting that it’s not a “stopover” like ours, but a “overnight stay”) near two moraine lakes. It is strange that the lakes are nearby, but one is blue, and the other is dull yellow.

The ascent to another "corner" of the gorge along the Karakol glacier is quite picturesque. Past the powerful lamb's foreheads with waterfalls, along a steep and then more gentle glacier. The parking lot, that is, "overnight stays" are located near the starboard side of the glacier in the direction of travel, not reaching 20 minutes before the Djety-Oguz pass.


The sun is shining, sometimes it rains for half an hour, but this does not prevent the group from courageously poring over the cards, thinking and considering options. Half of the notebook is already covered with a score, one game replaces another, the “thousand” saves us from dull lying rest, training our memory and sharpening our mind.

Then winter came. It began in the evening, and at night I had to go out and shake off the snow from the tents. In the morning the sun covered the rest of the winter, and everything around became surreal. Avalanches rolled down the slopes, large and slow, swift and whistling. At first, Lech grabbed the camera every time to film the process, and then he stopped. We sat in the center of a huge deserted arena, the only spectators of the natural performance, realizing all the worthlessness and pettiness of our existence.

If Dzhigit peak looked from afar like a soldier - high, sharp, piercing constantly attacking clouds, then Karakol peak looked like the Boss. Huge, powerful, all covered with ice, spreading around itself a bunch of ridges and buttresses, it really grew into the center of the gorge and looked down on everything from its venerable age and centuries-old wisdom. Its sloping summit bastion was softly enveloped by a blanket of clouds, like a scarf around the neck of a proud gray-bearded old man.


They also go there with an overnight stay. We realized right away that if we went without spending the night, then we had to really break through. For some reason, all descriptions end with a place to spend the night on the ridge, and then there is no information. Even the instructor, who insisted that he walked him, did not say anything sane about the route after spending the night. “Okay, let's see,” we decided. Lech stayed with Ruslan, we had to move out with Pasha alone. The weather promised to be perfect, which was extremely pleasing.

As there, in the mountaineering adage: "We got up early, got out quickly ..." So, we left at 2.30, to be sure. The day before, Pasha had drilled under the Jety-Oguz pass (2B) in order to view the route to it, at the same time he took a backpack with part of the equipment there. In the dark, we approached in half an hour under the mountain pass. There are several paths to the top, but this became known later. We climbed the most difficult (as, again, it turned out later). But in the dark, he seemed the most logical. The first rope is unambiguous in direction, but everything is pouring around, there is little to be insured for. Everywhere there are some horrible rusty hooks, pulled out by hand. The second rope is along a narrow icy couloir with drift ice on the rocks. At the end of the rope we see an overhanging rock plug with drip ice. I persuaded Pasha to take off her backpack before climbing on it. Not in vain. With ice tools, Pasha fought the cork for real, with spacers, with a redistribution of the center of gravity, etc. Very very technical area. With Pasha's level of rock and ice climbing, he turned out to be a worthy opponent. The action did not last long, but it impressed. Then turn around the corner into an ice mold on the saddle. Also, everything pours. I, like a real climber, take a zhumar and lead. We are at the saddle at about 5 am. The sign to the deceased person. The instructor Valera said that at this pass, someone often stays. The main reason is stones falling from under the ropes, people and just by themselves. Willingly hard to believe. An unpleasant place.

Further, the ice slope of 40-50 ° does not seem so big, but while we are walking along it, we realize that we are visually deceived - a drop of 400 m, although this is absolutely not visible in the photo even with our eyes. Then along the ridge, which turned out to be not at all even as it seemed from below, but camel-like, with deep descents and ascents.

The "humps" are replaced by a ridge with fragments of double rocks and lead to the Sportivny pass. This pass, I tell you, from below from the side of Karakol, not a single normal person will go. Most likely, no one walks when there is an opportunity to bypass the traverse through Jety-Oguz. The saddle of "Sportivniy" is a snow-firn plateau at the junction of the ridges, blown by all the winds. “To come here with coolers from below is for real horses,” we thought. 10 am, see what awaits us next. And then there is a glacier covered with snow, with cracks in the upper part. We figure out the way and move forward. Again, it turns out to be a very large difference. We pass under the seracs of the detached piece of the glacier and on the front teeth of the crampons we crawl out onto the ridge. Why is it so hard for me to crawl out, and not very easily go further along a rather sharp comb? Duc! The ridge at an altitude above 5 thousand is already ...



12 a.m. We sit in a warm pan, drink tea and make a simple consultation in a narrow circle. The ridge offers a view of the Karakol summit tower. It looks like a bastion. Another 200 meters in height, with ice, and possibly rocky ropes, then on foot to the top. I poke a cat's tine in the ice with my eyes downcast.
- How many more moves do you think to reach the top?
- Offhand about four hours, if it goes as I see. Perhaps crawling out onto the bastion is more difficult than I think.
— ...
- Decide. If you go down, I go with you.
- ... Pash .. I'm not sure .. Up, most likely, I will go, but down .. Will I have enough strength .. We went to Dzhigit for 18 hours. Everything was fine. Here it will turn out at least 22 ... And I do not feel the strength in myself for so long.
- Then let's go down. (deep breath) First time I turn down from the top. But sooner or later it had to happen.
- Sorry...
- Yes, he himself should have guessed that for a day you can not do it. Now I'll go under the bulwark behind that hump to see how it is there and return.
- I'm terribly sorry .. But who would have known that the route would turn out to be so long, and you, too, will not be able to drag me when I suddenly run out of strength ... (How disappointing that I let a person down! .. Well, let..)

We arrived at the camp at half past nine in the evening. It was almost dark now.

It took a lot of time to descend. Much more than we thought. Firstly, because the rocky ridge on the descent has remained a rocky ridge, not turning into a “peshkodral”. Secondly, the firn on the ridge became limp during the day, and we constantly fell through, in some places along the "waterline", and it was exhausting. Thirdly, the descent from the pass was not fast - carefully, so that the rope did not get tangled in the bends, and the stones under it did not fall off (after all, a stone hit me on the elbow, it was very painful). And fourthly, the height + accumulated running time still makes itself felt.

During the debriefing, it was decided that walking this route in 2 days was not an option - it would take so much energy to go up with coolies that it might not be enough for the next day to the top. You just need to walk with a prepared, physically strong ligament. For example, as Pasha said, “if I were walking with Dan Kutsak, I would have contacted him for the first time not on the ridge with rocks, but on the ascent to the summit bastion”.

Maybe it is so. Perhaps I am not the kind of person who can go to this Mountain in a day. But I really want to go to Karakol once. His ordinary people walk, albeit in two days. A beautiful, strong and powerful Mountain.

It was not possible to sleep properly. At three o'clock we got up and rode down, because at 10 am Sergei was to wait for us in a UAZ at the mouth of the Teleta River.

The Tien Shan trees with candles rest against the blue sky, the clear transparent ringing river of Telety runs along the rocky bottom, the tart smell of pine needles tickles our nostrils, and the sun smiles at us with its wide warm smile. I never thought that I missed the forest so much in 10 days!

Then the tape of our trip was rewound very quickly and what happened in the next 12 hours takes more text on the screen than time. So, at 11 am we were already in Karakol at the cozy Neophyta camp. Soap-rylnye procedures and lunch did not take very long. We jump into the "Delika" and drive through the sparsely populated south coast Issyk-Kul towards Bishkek. On the way, we sharpen apricots for 35 rubles a bucket (they don't sell in smaller containers) and quickly swim in a transparent, slightly salty lake. At 11 pm we arrive at the office of the Ak-Sai Travel company, already familiar to Pasha (and now to us). There we are informed that at 5 am the plane, tickets have been bought, so we need to repack and go to the hotel. Rest between the mountains "on the plain" covered with a copper basin.

We, of course, are unhappy with this coincidence, but there is nothing to do. The small private hotel "Grand Hotel" turns out to be extremely comfortable and cozy. Here we meet a group of Spaniards who will also fly to Osh with us tomorrow.

Not sleeping again. An airport. An-24 aircraft. A 50-minute flight over the mountains and we set off on a 30-degree early morning in Osh city. Here we are met by KamAZ with a passenger booth and a suspension that is completely absent from this booth. Alma-Ata people are still loading, and we go to the bazaar to buy food. For everything about everything 2 hours. Running around, bags, we found a supermarket with fast food, we didn't have time to eat. Grinding pistachios and grapes along the way.

Nine hours of driving along the most picturesque gorges and terrible serpentines through 3-4 thousand passes. Kamaz trucks do not disperse at bends, they wait for each other. Along the way, the settlements from the inhabited smoothly turn into structures incomprehensible from clay with polyethylene instead of windows, supported by walls so that they do not fall or just in yurts, where people do not live, but exist. Poverty is terrible in places.

At dusk we descend into the Alai Valley (about 3000 m), a lifeless expanse of scorched steppe without trees, but with huge, giant white peaks on the horizon. We arrived at the base camp Achik-Tash at 11 pm.

The length is 10 km. Net running time 8:00. Pedestrian area: peaks 2B kt. Waste 1b-2A k.t. Snow 1A k.t. Ice 1B k.t. The temperature at night is -20, in the afternoon +20, the wind is medium and strong. Strong wind, snow, thunderstorm since lunchtime. Visibility 30 m.Night snow 30 cm.


Early in the morning the next day we set out for the ascent. In the morning the weather is fine, as usual. The sun is shining, there is almost no wind. We choose the safest route in terms of avalanches and rockfalls. We split into two bundles: the first - Bazhenov, Mokhov and Ponomarev - will go to the peak at 6200 m, and Korolev and Kotelnikov - to the peak at 6100 m.


The beginning of the rise

We climb the steep scree straight from the tent to the ridge of the summit and further along it. Everything is covered with snow. We have to go in bundles and cats. Cornices hang higher from the ridge, you have to walk very carefully so as not to collapse them. On the other side of the ridge, an avalanche-prone slope begins - in that direction, too, you cannot take too much, because you can lower an avalanche.


Assault camp

So, maneuvering along this ridge, we get to the top. On it we lay out a tour of stones, in which we hide a waterproof capsule with a note, where we indicate information about ourselves, and that this peak is 6200 m high, we call Przewalski Peak. We are photographed at the summit with the flags of Forward, Mens Health and our command Pole of Inaccessibility, and descend along the ascent path. As soon as we had time to take a picture, a hurricane with snow and clouds flies in from the west again. By touch and with the help of a satellite navigator, we safely go down to the assault camp.


Przewalski Peak

In the same way, we climb the second peak, towering above our camp. Its height turns out to be 6100 m. We think to call it the peak of Roborovskiy - this is Przhevalskiy's main ally, who traveled with him through Kun-Lun and Tibet and, after his death, organized expeditions to these remote places of Central Asia. In the evening, the snowfall increases and the maximum amount of snow falls for the entire trip - 30 cm.