The biggest wave in the world: still ahead. The biggest waves in the world

In December 2004, the photo of the biggest wave in the world had all the publications of the world. On December 26, an earthquake in Asia occurred, which was the result of a wave tsunami, which destroyed more than 235 thousand people.

The media published a photo of destruction, assuring readers and television viewers, a big wave in the world has never been. But journalists Lukvali ... indeed, according to their destructive strength, the 2004 tsunami is one of the most deadly. But the magnitude (height) of this wave is rather modest: it is not much longer than 15 meters. Stories are known to higher waves, which can be said: "Yes, it is the biggest wave in the world!"

Records waves

Where the biggest waves

Scientists are confident that the highest waves cause no earthquakes (because of them are more often formed by the tsunami), and soil collaps. That is why high waves most often happen:

... and other killer waves

Not only the giants' waves are dangerous. There is a more terrible variety: single killer waves. They are taken from nowhere, their height rarely exceeds 15 meters. But the pressure that they have on all encountered items exceeds 100 tons per centimeter (ordinary waves "press" with a force of only 12 tons). These waves are practically not studied. It is only known that oil towers and ships, she is crushed as a sheet of ordinary paper.

The most dangerous waves are those that each Surfer "is obliged to know in the face." Waves, thanks to which the surfing became the way it is now, waves that challenge the brave. This article will be discussed about the biggest and dangerous waves for surfing, which took many lives. It will be about Pipeline and Jaws in Hawaii, Mavericks in California, Teahupoo on Tahiti and Shipsterns Bluff in Australia, off the coast of Tasmania Island.

The most dangerous waves for surfing.

Banzai Pipeline Wave, which is located off the coast of Oahu Island, Hawaii, is considered to be Mecca of surfing. The legendary wave with stunning pipes arises where the energy of Svetla is found with a coral reef. Pipeline hosts many competitions, including The Pipeline Masters. Professional Surfers go here from all over the earth to ride on one of the largest and most dangerous waves of the planet. In winter, the waves reach the size of up to 30 feet (about 10 meters). Depending on the size of the Svetla, Pipeline breaks on several peaks: the most famous - First Reef, - this peak is most often the most powerful; Backdoor - right wave on the same peak; And Third Reef, on which they will serfat not so often, but here the waves are even more.

The most dangerous waves here: Pipeline is called the most deadly wave in the world. Several professional terfhers and photographers died here, including Malik Joyeux, Surfer from Tahiti, who became known thanks to his skating on Teahupoo.

This wave is located on the southwest coast of Tahiti Island. Often Teahupoo is called the world's most severe wave in the world. The name on the local dialect is correctly read as Chop, but many call it just the theupe. Chop has become popular in the sixties of the last century, due to its unique form. It is simply impossible to confuse this wave with some other. A semicircular reef, which is leaning down, - precisely thanks to him Chop rises so sharply, quickly and has such a thick linden during large swelles.
Since 2000, five deaths on Teahupoo are registered. In 2001, Surfer Brice Teraea (Briece Taerea), having fallen from a 13-foot wave (a little more than 4 meters), hit the reef, broke the neck and the spine in 3 places, fell into someone, and after two days it was spread with life.

Shipsterns Bluff

Called in the past "Devil's Point" in honor of Cape, which hangs over the ocean, SHIPSTERNS BLIFF is located in the southeastern part of Tasmania, which absorbs the storm of the Indian Ocean. Spot is famous due to the complex design of the bottom, due to which a wave is formed, which seems to mutate, while breaking.

"The wave is not just breaking here," says Marti Paradisis Marti Paradisis, the Ocean is developing, trying to destroy everything on his path. To surf here, you need to configure yourself to battle ... This wave is absolutely unpredictable. " And this is true, especially when the famous "steps" begin to appear, trying to knock down a sief.

"When you start on Shipssterns, you see how the ocean sucks water from the reef, and its surface begins to bend according to the relief of the bottom, and this is exactly the" step "- explains Marty. - As soon as you see her, you have to decide how to be: either slip the step as quickly as possible when the wave is small, or when its size becomes more, drive in the pipe. It's a challenge!"

Many Sarfers who dared to drive on this wave were not able to leave unscathed. "I remember how stuck within 300 meters from a safe dry cliff, expired by blood. At that moment I tried not to think about myself about me, "Kieren Perrow recalls Kiren Parrow, having a meal for sharks.

Jaws.

The wave called the jaw, or in the Hawaiian version of Peahi, is located on the northern shore of Maui Island under the impressive clutches. For the first time in this wave, Windsurfers rolled, and at the end of the 90s, Jaws became a test landfill for the emerging movement of the TOU-Ying Surfing, under the leadership of Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama.
The biggest waves here can reach a height of 40-70 feet (13-23 meters), thanks to the winter storms. To achieve the speed required for the start on the wave, Tou-in-in-sherfors are accelerated by water scooters. However, in recent times, they began to rake on this wave and manually, for example, such Surfers like Shane Dorian (Carlos Burle) and Mark Healey.

"Of all the big waves in the world, I think this is the fastest," says Mark Hely. - She moves faster and hits hard. Rescue operations with the help of water scooters are very complex, because the avalanche from the foam is hooked about a 300-foot cliff. "

Joouse received his frightening name when the Hawaiian Surfers John Roberson (John Lemus) and John Potter (John Potterick), rushing here in 1975, noticed a sudden change in conditions when the wave turned into a huge dangerous monster. They nicknamed her as the eponymous film, comparing the unpredictability of conditions with the suddenness of the shark attack.

Mavericks.

Famous Most Russian Surfers Film Chasing Mavericks, this wave is located in Halfmoon Bay in Northern California. And she became the place of the most dramatic events in the modern history of Big Wave Surfing. Only elected risks ride on this dangerous, sometimes a deadly wave, which can reach up to 80 feet (about 25 meters) in height.

Grant Washburn (Grant Washburn) rides for Mavericks almost the longest. He says that experiencing incredible sensations from skiing on this wave, you become obsessed with her, but sometimes you have to pay for the desire to "defeat" the most dangerous waves. This fact is confirmed by several deaths and tragic cases when Sarfer was almost drowned in the waters of this spot.

But besides hazardous conditions, ordinary for huge waves, Maverix has its own hidden threat.
"Right under a huge peak is a deep hole in the bottom of the ocean, in which he with a rapid speed drags water from each passing wave," says Washburn. - This place is called "failure" (The Cauldron), and "thanks" to him, the Sarfer is held under water over two waves, and it is precisely it is to blame in the death of Mark Foo (Mark Foo) and Sion Milosky.

As you can see, the most dangerous waves attract people who have surfing not just a lifestyle, but their passion and excitement. But, unfortunately, not everyone turned out to be sustained to compete with nature. We suggest you to watch this video so that you can clearly make sure what giants are we talking about.

There is a place in the world from which photos and video reports about giant waves often make. The last few years of records in Big Wave surfing to the largest wave taken (both hands and jet) are installed on the same wave of Nazare. The first such record was installed by Hawaiian Surfer Garrett McNamara in 2011 - the wave height was 24 meters. Then, in 2013 he broke his record, driving a wave with a height of 30 meters.

Why exactly in this place the biggest waves in the world?

Let's first remember the mechanism of formation of waves:

So, everything begins far-far in the ocean, where strong winds blow and storm will be blocked. As we know from the school year of geography, the wind blows from the area from an increased pressure into the area of \u200b\u200bthe reduced. In the ocean, these areas are divided by many kilometers, so the wind blows over a very large area of \u200b\u200bthe ocean, passing the water part of its energy due to the friction force. Where it happens, the ocean looks more like a raging soup - did you ever seen the storm at the sea? Here is also about as well, only the scale is more. There are small and big waves here, all the intention imposed on each other. However, the water energy is also not in place, but moves in a certain direction.

Due to the fact that the ocean is very, very large, and the waves of different sizes move at different speeds, during the time, until all this raging porridge comes to the shore, she "sifted", alone small waves folded with others in large, other, on the contrary, mutually Destroy. As a result, it comes to the shore what is called GROUNG SWELL - even ridges of waves, broken into the sets from three to nine with scalers of the clutch between them.

However, not every Swiver is destined to become waves for surfing. Although it is more correct to say - not everywhere. In order for the wave to be caught, it should be shattered in a certain way. The formation of a wave for surfing depends on the structure of the bottom in the coastal zone. The ocean is very deep, so the mass of water moves evenly, but as they approach the shore, the depth begins to decrease, and the water that moves closer to the bottom, in the absence of another exit, it begins to rise to the surface, thus raising the waves. In the place where the depth, and or rather small, reaches a critical value, the rising wave can no longer become more and fell. A place where it happens is called Lainap, there are surfers there, waiting for a suitable wave.

The waveform directly depends on the bottom of the bottom: the sharply becomes sharp, the sharp wave. Usually the sharpest and even tubing waves are born there, where the height difference is almost instantaneous, for example, at the bottom of a huge stone or the beginning of the reef plateau.

Photo 2.

Where the difference is gradual, and the bottom of sandy, the waves are more gentle and slow. Such waves are best suited to train surfing, so all surf schools spend the first lessons for beginners on sandy beaches.

Photo 3.

Of course, there are also other factors that affect waves, for example, the same wind: it can improve or worsen the quality of the waves depending on the direction. In addition, there are so-called windy drills, these are waves that do not have time to "seek" the distance, as the storm is raging not so far from the coast.

So, now about the highest waves. Thanks to the winds, huge energy is accumulated, which is then moving toward the coast. As the oceanic drill approached the shore, the oceanic drill is converted into the waves, but unlike other places of our planet, a surprise awaits him off the coast of Portugal.

Photo 4.

The thing is that it is in the area of \u200b\u200bthe city of Nazare, the seabed is a huge Canyon depth of 5000 meters and a length of 230 kilometers. This means that the oceanic drill does not undergo changes, but it comes to how it is, until the continent, having collapsed on the coastal cliffs with all its power. The wave height is usually measured as the distance from the crest to the base (where something like the depression is often suited to the Word, which increases the height compared to those if they measured at the average sea level in this height of the tide).

Photo 5.

However, unlike such waves as Mavericks or the theupe, on Nazare, Comb, even if it collapses, never hangs over the base, moreover, it separates it from the bottom point of about 40 meters along the horizontal axis. Because of the spatial distortion of the prospects, in front of the front view, we see water block 30 meters, technically, it is even more, but this is not the height of the wave. That is, strictly speaking, Nazare is not a wave, but a water mountain, a pure oceanic drill, powerful and unpredictable.

Photo 6.

Nevertheless, the fact that Nazare is not quite a wave, does not make this spot less scary and dangerous. Garrett McNamara says that it is incredibly difficult to drive on Nazare. Usually, three people helps him in the water: one pulls him on Jenet on Lainap, dispelled on the wave and does not float far to trace that everything is in order with the surfer. His will protect the second jet, as well as the third little bit, whose driver is watching all three. Also, near the lighthouse on the rock is the wife of Garrett and tells him by the radio, what the waves go and what can you take. On that day, when he set his second record, not everything went smoothly. The first driver was shot down with Jet wave, so Garrett had to pull out of the foam, and the third hurried to help the first. Everything was done clearly and quickly, so no one was injured.

Photo 7.

Garrett himself says the following: "Of course, all these damps and technical devices in surfing on large waves are a kind of churches. And in principle, you can do without them, but in this case the chances of perishing much higher. As for me personally, since I had a wife and children, I feel more responsible for them and fear for my life, so I go to all technical tricks, so that with the greatest probability to return home alive. "

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sources

What is due to the emergence of most waves in the oceans and the seas, the destructive energy of the waves and the most giant waves, and the large tsunami who ever seen a person.

The highest wave

Most often, the waves are generated by the wind: the air moves the surface layers of the aqueous thickness at a certain speed. Some waves can accelerate to 95 km / h, while the wave can be up to 300 meters long, such waves pass huge distances across the ocean, but most often their kinetic energy is quenched, it is consumed even before they reach sushi. If the wind subsides, then the waves become smaller, ironing.

The formation of waves in the ocean is subject to certain patterns.

The height and wavelength depends on the wind speed, from the duration of its impact, from the area covered by the wind. There is a correspondence: the greatest wave height is one seventh part of its length. For example, a strong breeze generates waves up to 3 meters high, an extensive hurricane - an average of 20 meters. And this is already truly monstrous waves, with roaring foam caps and other special effects.

The highest conventional wave of 34 meters was noted on the territory of Agullas (South Africa) in 1933 by sailors from the side of the American ship Ramapo. The waves of such a height are called "the killer waves": even a large ship can easily be lost and even a large ship can be lost between them.

In the theory, the height of normal waves can reach 60 meters, but they have not yet been fixed in practice.

In addition to conventional wind origin, there are other waveforming mechanisms. The cause and epicenter of the birth of a wave can be an earthquake, a volcanic eruption, a sharp change in the coastline (landslides), human activity (for example, a test of nuclear weapons) and even a fall in the ocean of large celestial bodies - meteorites.

The biggest wave

This tsunami is a serial wave, which is caused by any powerful impulse. The feature of the tsunami waves is that they are quite long, the distance between the ridges can reach tens of kilometers. Therefore, in the open ocean, the tsunami does not represent much danger, since the height of the waves is obtained on average no more than a few centimeters, in record cases - a meter of one and a half, but the speed of their distribution is simply unthinkable, up to 800 km / h. From the ship in the open sea they are not noticeable at all. The destructive strength of the tsunami acquires, approaching the coast: the reflection of the shore leads to the compression of the wavelength, and the energy does not go anywhere. Accordingly, its (waves) of amplitude increases, that is, height. It is easy to conclude that such waves can achieve a much greater height than wind waves.

The most terrible tsunami arise due to significant disorders of the seabed relief, for example, tectonic faults or shifts, due to which billions of tons of water begin to move dramatically for tens of thousands of kilometers at the speed of the reactive aircraft. The catastrophes occur when the whole lot slows down on the beach, and its colossal energy first goes to extension of height, and in the end, it feels dry onto all its power, water wall.

The most "cunning" places are bays with high shores. These are real tsunami traps. And the worst thing that the tsunami almost always comes suddenly: when the situation on the sea can be indistinguishable from low tide or tide, ordinary storm, people do not have time or even think evacuated, and suddenly they overtake their giant wave. The alert system is small where it is designed.

Territories with increased seismic activity - special risk zones and in our time. No wonder the name of this natural phenomenon has a Japanese origin.

The worst tsunami in Japan

The islands are regularly attacked by waves of different caliber, and among them there are truly gigantic, entailing human sacrifices. An earthquake in the east coast of Honshu Island in 2011 caused tsunami with a wave height of up to 40 meters. The earthquake is estimated as strongest in the described history of Japan. The waves struck strikes around the coast, together with the earthquake, they took the lives of more than 15 thousand people, many thousands were missing.

Another highest wave in the history of Japan fell in 1741 to the west of Hokkaido Island as a result of the volcanic eruption, its height is approximately estimated at 90 meters.

The largest tsunami in the world

In 2004, on the islands of Sumatra and Java Tsunami, caused by a strong earthquake in the Indian Ocean, turned into a large-scale catastrophe. Died, according to various sources, from 200 to 300 thousand people - a third of a million victims! To date, it is precisely this tsunami is considered the most destructive in history.

And the record holder in the height of the wave is the name "Lita". This is a tsunami, rushing in 1958 on the bay of literal on Alaska at a speed of 160 km / h, was provoked by a giant landslide. The wave height was estimated at 524 meters.

Meanwhile, the sea is not always dangerous. There are "friendly" seas. For example, no river falls into the Red Sea, but it is the cleanest in the world. .
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Waves most often calm and fascinate a person watching them. Just imagine: the beach, sunset sun sinks in the ocean waves, one after another incident white foam on the golden sand. "Idyll", "you say. Now imagine: strong wind gusts, a cold breeze and a huge 30-meter wave, growing right in front of you for counting seconds. "Idyll", "will say big wave surfers.

Today we will tell about the most famous sobs with big waves: how and where these ocean halki come from and who is hunting behind them. Source: Birdymag.ru.

(Just 14 photos)

Mavericks, California

1. Perhaps these giant waves became the most popular and familiar to people even far from surfing, and all thanks to the film "Wave Conquerors" (2012), telling the real history of the young Surfer of Jay Moriarty, who conquered the most memories. But now is not about it.

Received its name Spot in the distant 1967, when three surfers' friends came to ride on a nameless spot. With them there was a dog - German Shepherd Dog named Maverick, who loved to swim next to the guys. Leaving PSA on the shore, they swam on a boat to Line-Au, but the dog still went to them. The boat had to be deployed to stronger to tie Maverick - the weather was strongly spoiled and the dog was unsafe in the water. In terms of skiing, that day was not successful: the guys are surfing near the coast, and the giant waves, getting far in the ocean, seemed to them very dangerous. Returning to the shore, they decided to call the place in honor of the dog, whom that day was lucky much more.

2. Since then, the small town of Half Moon Bay in Southern California has become Mecca for surfers, who do not know without deadly waves. But not for everyone. For many years, Spot was a great secret, zealously protected only by the elected. And all the rumors about Mavericks were more like insane Bedding. Only in the 90s, thanks to the magazine Surfer Magazine, Spot got a broad publication and became a magnet for all those who wish to stand and run the killer waves.

3. Such power these waves are acquired thanks to the unique design of the bottom: at a distance of about one and a half kilometers from the coast, reef has a recess, which, as a pump, pump the wave with an additional volume of water coming from other deep-sea reefs. But this is just the "good friend's meeting on the threshold": the waves themselves are formed long before the approach to the shores of California. Maveriki in their original state - the echoes of the storms in the nearby areas of the northern part of the Pacific Ocean. Overcoming the distance of 320 km (perfect option), the waves move to south, driven by Western wind. Another important component for Big Maverick is the period with which Swella waves come to reefs, this period must exceed 16 seconds. When all factors fold together, a huge 25-meter wall grows in front of you.

Nazare, Portugal

4. Who would have thought that the usual fishing village of VMIG would become the surference center of attraction? And all thanks to not so long ago open sight with truly frightening waves.

As in the case of Maveriki, a deep Canyon Nazaré playing on the hand of Surphers (Canhão Da Nazaré). This is the largest underwater gorge in Europe, stretching along the coast of 170 km. The width of Canyon Nazare reaches 5 km, and the depth is about 300 m.

5. Find Surfer.

6. The waves of Nazare "feed on" the strong storms of the Atlantic, the drills of which are moving to Europe. The canyon, like an arrow directed by straight to the beach of Praia do Norte, enhances the power of the wave, and the sharp drop of depth between the gorge and the reef allows the waves to grow in height, reaching 30 m, and sometimes more. Madmen who conquered such giants, abound.

7. Take at least the owner of the Guinness record, American Garrett McNamaru, in 2011, glauted wave 23.7 meters high. And in two years he has increased success, conquering everything in the same 30 meter giant. The deadly storm "Holy Judas" helped Braziltsu Carlos Burle for 1.5 meters to scat McNamar. By the way, Girl Burle - Big Wave Surfers Maya Gabeira - almost said goodbye to life, falling from a gigantic wave in Nazare.

Garrett McNamara catches Monster Nazare

Jaws, Hawaii

8. Hawaiian spot Jaws ("Jaws") on the northern coast of Maui Island is glad to open its mouth for everyone from November to March. Such a name was painted by local surfers in 1975 in honor of the newly elected blockbuster of Stephen Spielberg. The waves and the truth stands here are similar to the unpredictable behavior of the shark: Suddenly, a friendly wave can turn into an 18-meter monster.

9. "Jaws" come thanks to the storms of the Pacific Ocean rich in Big Wave Entertainment. These high, fast and powerful waves attract town-in-surfers, i.e. Those who fall on the wave by towing on a hydrocycle. By the way, this method was invented on the sidotal "Jaws" in the 1980s.

10. The "jaws" arise thanks to the underwater ridge, which appeared as a result of the volcanic eruption. The ridge dramatically slows down the rapid movement of the coat, driven by sharp wind gusts, and the reef, concentrating all this mass, collapses it in a certain place. In the very, where the XXL Big Wave Awards will be held on May 1.

"Jaws": Surfer for Mom, Surfer for Pope ...

Teahupoo, Tahiti

11. SPOTEUPU (or rather, on the local dialect, the name is pronounced as "Chop") located on the south-west of the main island of French Polynesia - Tahiti in the Pacific Ocean. Translated, the name sounds like "to tear the head" and quite justifies it. Of course, it appeared as a result of bloody intergovernmental wars, which happened in these edges hundreds of years ago. But today it does not lose relevance. And all because the giant heavy waves rise 500 meters from the coast and rushes on a slightly covered reef shallow, sharp, like a thousand knives. In the merit of the strong south-western Svetla, carrying the left wave, and the unique semicircular "gear" relief of reef, shepherdly go down, allows her to show him in all his insidious heavyweight gleys. It seems that the giants grow simply from nowhere.

Rice Vartenberg, surfer, traveler: "When I got out of the water after my first cruel" kiss "with reef in ChOPU (on the hip), one of the surfers who developed on the shore, said that I was lucky, since I didn't grab this beauty face. And then I understood: Yes, damn, I really am lucky! "

ChOP is included in the list "Top-10 deadly waves" of TransWorld Surf magazine. All the power of the "Sorvigolov" experienced Surfer Bruce Taarea in 2000. The unsuccessful attempt of the Duck-dive shouldn for a 4-meter wave ended for professional athlete death: a powerful wave pushed the athlete, throwing it to reef. From the neck of the neck and the spine Bruce fell into someone, and then died in the hospital.

Chop Dae

Pipeline, Hawaii

12. What can I say, Hawaii is the historical homeland of surfing, having mounted on their waves of riders of all levels and ages. But the hunters for big waves here there is a certain point - spotlight on the shore of Oahu, or rather, on the beach of Banzai. In winter, there are huge (up to 10 meters) pipes, which, closing in shallow water, add 10 more points to the level of danger.

13. It is noteworthy that, depending on the size of the incoming drone, the wave on the paipline breaks into several peaks, the most replaced from which is First Reef. It is logical, because the reef rumbles into the ocean is divided into three parts by the depressions that give the incoming waves additional power. Meeting with shallow water, all this tremendous mass is embroidered, creating an ideal, but damn dangerous pipe.

By the way, about pipes. Pipeline received its name, which is surprising, not at all for the features of the waves. It was in 1961, when the director Bruce Brown decided to shoot several guys on nameless waves for his surfership film "In Search of Summer". And very nearby work on laying underground communications in the ocean. So Brown and dubbed the place - "pipeline" - very neromantically.

14. Since the 1970s, the Billabong Pipeline Masters competitions are held here, on which the strongest athletes are struggling with the elements of $ 425,000. But not so I am riddling: since 2000, there are six deaths of professional surfers and photographers.

Of course, these are not the only places on the ground where you can meet face to face with huge waves. But to find out, and most importantly, to understand them all, you need to make a lot of effort. Not only physical, but also mental. After all, big-wave surfing - the enterprise is deadly. And for those who still dream up, for example, Maveriki, we came up with the motto: "Learn. Ride. Rule. "