Georgia report on the trip. Mega Long-awaited Travel Report on Georgia
The idea of \u200b\u200ba trip to Georgia was born in our company on simple, in essence, reason: one of us is ethnic Georgians with a bunch of relatives living in Tbilisi and the surrounding area. When a person born and grown in Moscow and on a stereotypical Caucasian, not even distant, so passionately advertises this direction, it is simply impossible to refuse.
Georgia. Alazan Valley
Another question is what can motivate the average Russian tourist to such a trip? In my opinion, only some echoes of Soviet stories about hospitality and all-Union resistant. Weak arguments, right? Already after visiting Georgia, I am ready to strengthen them with dry facts: it is the most calm and Europeanized country of the Caucasus and Transcaucasus. The most civilized if you want.
Here are very tasty fed. And here is very very inexpensive. I forgot something? Oh yeah, beauty and exotic in Georgia abuse! By the way, watching Mimino's film before making a solution is extremely recommended.
I am writing a separate paragraph for the attentive audience of federal TV channels. Russians are not taken here with the same rejoicing as Finns or Germans, but with a much bigger! I, if that, warned?
Attractive places and routes
What to look in Georgia? Our intuitive installation was like this: Tbilisi, mountainous monasteries and the sea. If this is formulated more scientificly, there is an interesting nature and culture equally. This is the birthplace of winemaking, one of the most ancient alphabets, one of the cradle of Christianity (the first temples here are dated the fourth century!), Located on incredibly beautiful lands, where almost all attractive form of relief and natural zones are presented. And an important detail - the country is very small, there is no problem to look at a relatively short time.
As the main points of attraction, I would call:
- Tbilisi, the capital and the most colorful city of Georgia;
- Kutaisi with his mountain view and legendary history;
- Batumi with the cool sea and the achievements of modern civilization;
- Alazan Valley with her species and tastings ;
- Mtskheti - the ancient capital of the country recently completely renovated ;
- Mountains with interesting surroundings and a house of Comrade Stalin... Well, all that between these wonderful places.
Monasteries, fortresses, churches, caves, all sorts of old stories and legends in Georgia you will find exactly as much as it will be forces to search.
There are also ski resorts in the country, for example, Gudauri. Here I will not dwell on them in detail, this is a separate topic, requiring in a general story, in my opinion, only the most superficial mention.
The second moment for sophisticated tourists - alpine Georgia, Svanetia. Consider that this is a separate journey that requires capital time and financial costs. Of course, these investments will pay off a hundredfold, but I would like to pour a visit to the Soban Earth to a review trip to Georgia if you plan to spend on it in general less than three weeks.
And third. Ecotourism. Well, that is, the fact that the USSR was called just tourism. Backpacks, tents, cauldrons, stew. In Georgia, this phenomenon is now on the rise, and the dicarce go here, as a rule, foreigners. Places for disembarking and routes themselves are just darkness. Small local tourist companies are often engaged in the help of ecotourists.
Separate article - "Wine Routes". In Kakheti (especially around the Alazan Valley), it is possible with enviable regularity to see pointers like "Wine Route?", Transparently hinting on the tasting room of a private winery or a wineglass. Any tour suit in Tbilisi will offer you a lot of wine tours.
A common practice among tourists who managed to organize a long-term (over 3 weeks) trip to the Transcaucasia, is the inclusion of Armenia and / or Azerbaijan to its route.
How to get?
I recommend not to wise in this matter, but to use the airport, the only one at today is an adequate way to get into Georgia. In the country, in addition to Tbilisi, two international airports, in Kutaisi and Batumi. Back in 2013, the number of direct flights from Moscow was disappearing small. Most flights were carried out with a transfer in Kiev or Minsk. Now the situation has become significantly better, therefore, if you take care of the purchase of tickets in advance, you can count on a compact Three-hour flight at a price of no more than twenty thousand rubles in both directions.
Of course, there are enthusiasts who come here to their cars in the only active highway (military-Georgian road) through the North and South Ossetia, but advise this version of the average traveler "Hand does not rise."
Direct railway communication with the Russian Federation is currently missing, there is a theoretical opportunity to get there by train through Azerbaijan. I doubt the truth that she will interest you.
There is a romantic version of the marine message - a comet velocity boat that runs on the route Sochi-Batumi.
Extremely important moment! If you have been to the territory of Abkhazia or South Ossetia and have a mark on this passport, but they went to these lands, not through Georgia, you may have serious problems with the local border guard (and with the law as a whole). Be careful.
Transportation within the country
Planning a trip to Georgia, we gave our report in what is a medium-sized company consisting of sufficiently lazy, but quite curious city inhabitants, most of which have a driver's license. Yes, and we wanted the trip to not be too expensive.
So, such conditions of the task, as it seemed to us, encourage two main solutions. Car rental or minibus order with driver. We chose the second and never regretted the second. I'll try to clarify. First, it turned out to be more than available at the price (actually, the car rental here is also inexpensive, but the break in price with the machine with the guide is simply negligible). Secondly, in Georgia is very specific and in some places dangerous traffic. On the mountain serpentine, people joyfully go to overtake before the closed turn, in the opposite drive, what is called, "it is necessary and not necessary." Even an experienced driver, accustomed to Russian road realities, will not adapt immediately and will be very tense at first. There are few accidents on the roads in Georgia, but they are usually quite serious. Thirdly, you or your company will be able to drink quietly.
And most importantly - your driver will most likely not only actually drivers, but also a guide that knows the country and sensitive to the wishes of the client. In our case, he took over the reservation of apartments and hostels, and also brought to his father's house in the Kakhetian village, where he demonstrated that there is a real Georgian feast.
In short, individual tourism is the optimal choice for a trip to Georgia. Guides-drivers can help in developing a route, and not only within the country, but also with races in Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey. Now private tourockers and individual entrepreneurs engaged in such a matter are very common in Georgia. And everything is very civilized, no "Kidalova" in this area is not.
On the roads of all directions that had to master, fully hitchhiking, both domestic and foreign ones. Apparently, this method of moving in Georgia is quite safe. For comparison, in the Russian North Caucasus I have not seen a single stopper.
Public transport is fully concerned here it is unlikely to succeed. Railways are pretty poorly developed, and frequent buses are delivered from Tbilisi to Kutaisi and Batumi.
Comfort and issue price
Georgia is an inexpensive country with a rapidly developing tourist industry. It's nice that this industry is growing here "from below", i.e. From the level of small entrepreneurs, often inventing the original set of services and do not dispake dumping in the best sense of the word. Moreover, today it is unprofitable to deceive their customers. Business is carried out in Europe transparent, and the attitude towards guests in Caucasian welcome.
The trip will cost very inexpensively, given that the satisfying dinner in a decent institution is unlikely to cost more than 10 euros, and the night in an advantageously located modern guesthouse (with one-time or double placement) will facilitate a wallet for about 20-30 euros per day. By the way, in most guest houses are fed a very dense breakfast. Minivan services Mercedes-Benz Sprinter with an incredible guide-driver cost us 150 euros per day. Make the findings yourself, gentlemen travelers.
useful links
View hotels in different regions of Georgia
Hotel selection in Tbilisi
Hotel selection in Batum
Choosing a hotel in Gudauri
Hotel selection in Kazbegi
Choosing a hotel in Kutaisi
Day Three. While we traveled along excursions, my friend from social networks dropped SMS that I found a suitable apartment for us in Batumi and will meet us in the morning in Makhinjauri (Suburb Batumi - the final stop of the train). Three-bedroom apartment in a water park area in a new building with a very good repair on the 13th floor, to the sea for 10 minutes, with all amenities. Cost $ 90.
View from the balcony of our apartment.
True, the elevator did not work and so did not fix it. But since we decided to thoroughly trying the Georgian cuisine, they started it in the pros.
Beach rest
First of all went to the sea. Beach in Batumi.
Pebbles are very large and taking into account the waves sinking on the knees. But the sea is warm.
A little wandered around the city in search of simes "Beeline" (two more were needed to communicate with each other), so they did not find them.
Once again went to the sea. A little rested, walked along the embankment and went to the restaurant "Ajar House". The restaurant is located on Lake Ardagani, there are many positive feedback on it on the Internet, our taxi driver also recommended him. The order was done through the waiter translator. I ordered a lot, everything was not mastered. Paid ~ $ 55. Spruce crawled out of the table.
Ajarsky Khachapuri (the most delicious of all Khachapuri).
Roasted trout.
Ojajuri is a national Georgian dish consisting of roasted meat and potatoes.
On the same small artificial lake Ardagani by the embankment, there are singing fountains.
After the satisfying dinner, returned home for a taxi for $ 2.5.
Sightseelandities Batumi
This fourth day was devoted to the study of Batumi. On the city bus, they drove to the cable car (buy a bus ticket from the driver, it stands in the area of \u200b\u200bone lari, and compost in the composter). In the area of \u200b\u200bthe Morport, we finally managed to buy SIM cards. There are many exchangers, shops, stops of minibuses, Gudville supermarket.
Batumi cable car.
Observation platform on top.
Going down, went through the streets of the Old Town View the main sights of Batumi. Here I was very useful, I was very useful at home by Map Batumi, where I noted all the objects that interest me.
The famous Piazza Square.
Unique astronomical clock on the old bank Batumi.
Medea sculpture with golden rune on the Era Square (Argonauts).
In the same area, the Hareb Wine House (K. Gamsakhurdia / Melashvili, 28/30), where we roamed wine.
Tower of the Georgian alphabet of 130 meters high in the "Miracles Park".
Fountain of free chapter or Cupot Tower 25 meters high.
View of the sea port from the ferris wheel.
Moving sculpture of Love Ali and Nino.
Embankment.
Along the entire embankment there is a bike path, you can take bikes for hire. We took this:
And they were stopped by the police for the fact that they were not on the bike path.
There are many free simulators on the embankment. Generally Georgians sports people. In the morning there are many people running, rides bikes, engaged in simulators. Everywhere there are a lot of football fields, at any time of the day and in any weather, children play football.
At the leased train they reached the colonnade. There is a playground and another singing fountain. Since it was not yet dark and the fountain did not work, they decided to eat and return to the fountain.
They went to the cafe "Laguna" (ul. Gorgyladze, 18), where in the opinion of many they make the most delicious Khachapuri. Ordered one big and one small. The big was just a huge, we took it with you and reached two more days.
This is how big khachapuri looks like.
And this is a little khachapure.
On the way home played chess.
We looked at the singing fountain.
Called street cleaning by some huge vacuum cleaner.
Met patrolling policeman for golf.
On shopping to Turkey from Georgia
Knowing that visas were canceled, we could not do not go to Turkey to shopping. Fifth day. On the city bus they arrived to the mp3, replaced lari on the lira and began to search for a minibus to Sarpi. Minibilities up to the border stop slightly above the street (Tbilisi Square), the passage costs $ 0.5. Going the border sits on the shuttle to Kemalpasha and go out when the driver is crying "Istambul Bazaar", the passage stands just less than a dollar, go for about 7-10 minutes.
On the left side of the shopping center "Istanbul Bazaar", it contains almost all good and famous Turkish brands at adequate prices. The shopping center has slimming, Fast Food and a playground. Up the street is a shopping town, where many shops with cheap clothes and other trifles. Lari on the lira can not be changed, take LARI everywhere. Lyra came in handy only in order to eat in the mall.
After going around and moving the border back, they decided to swim in Sarpi, where according to reports it was supposed to be the cleaner sea. Descended to the sea. So much garbage in the sea I have never seen never anywhere. We decided to take a taxi and get to the Cvariati (cost $ 5.5). There is a little better, but also horror. Probably just a day was so and we were not lucky. Somehow bathed and returned to a taxi in Batumi ($ 5.5).
Photo of kvariati.
In the evening, our familiar taxi driver arrived behind us and transported us to Kobuleti. Here we were waiting for the first surprise.
Paid elevator (we have the 9th floor). You throw a coin and it goes, and sometimes you throw a coin, and he does not go. Like this. We basically went on foot, it is useful for us with such a number of food.
The second surprise was in the form of an unobed apartment, which was particularly obvious in the morning.
Country in the clouds and snow in the early summer
Tbilisi, Signals, Mezers, Maizers, Ushguly, Latali, Gudauri, Kazbegi
What managed to do in two weeks
- get married in the city of alarm
- to visit the most highly mountainous settlement of Europe
- Make a rise to the glacier on the grind on horseback
- climb to the mountain lake
- To make a snowman
- Play snowballs
- Find mushrooms and even eat them!
- learn how to mine gold an ancient way
I learned that I can't live without internet more than a day))))
Khachapuri is tasty, but not every day!
DRIVING
This is extreme in pure form. Here they overtake on turns, drivers are rumped in the serpentine as if they were in Kartinga, and not on the road on one side of which breakdown in several tens of meters.
Local love to signal. What do they have this kind of alphabet of frost, according to which the driver knows: tell him "gamargoba.! "Or beautifully scold.
On the road from the alarm in Tbilisi, I learned that on a two-way duplex road, 4 cars can safely be destroyed at the same time. And can turn with anyone to any row.
I learned that the norm is overtaking when the counter car is already rushing to you. And if she hits fast, then it can be sinking like this: stuck! You do not see, I'll overtake here, and you interfere with!
Think twice before taking cars for hire. In my opinion, a taxi is cheaper here and calmer.
FOOD
Georgian servings are not big, they are huge! Everyone believes that you are constantly hungry and try to feed you. Even if half an hour ago dined, even if the table break from food, they still will offer what is not on the table.
Three types of Khachapuri, Maiga, Adjapsandali - vegetable stew from eggplants, peppers, carrots and tomatoes; Shosh - Potatoes Puree with cheese - traditional Svan dish; Lobiani - beans, flew with mint, mushrooms and omelet; Chakhokhbili - chicken with vegetables.
This is just a short list of what we tried in 2 weeks.
JOB
We had the impression that everyone is engaged in Georgia. They all captured and the service system works at the family business level. And the family in Georgia is a broad concept - all brothers, all sisters.
We were looking for, where to transfer documents to Tbilisi. On the bridge at the House of Justice, a woman grabbed us, somehow guessing what we needed, and immediately brought to the office opposite. She asked if we were going to sign. If yes, she may be our Witness.
Next, we went to the travel agency to find out where there is the nearest car rental.
A man will not think that someone called someone after a short conversation in Georgian, he said that he could agree. We politely explained that the agency needs and want to be a contract and see the car, hinting that the car of his brother or nephew was not very suitable.
HOSPITALITY
Our flight from Tbilisi to the Mesti was canceled due to severe clouds. I had to go on a minibus with fellow travelers with a failed flight.
First of all, everyone got acquainted. For 8 hours, we learned about our fellow travelers: who and where it works, managed to discuss politics, national cuisine, culture. We were fed with some kind of national sweet cakes with raisins and cinnamon and made a tour of the reservoir, deciding together with the driver that we should see it.
Panorama really turned out to be standing. For all our fellow travelers special thanks to.
Further, all the minibus they were looking for our guesthouse (since I did not have connections with the organizers) they were talking together, calling someone on mobile, stopping passersby and conceit. All this happened in Georgian and without our participation. And when they found, they rejoiced together, and then they said goodbye to us as with old friends.
THE MOUNTAINS
Georgia Mountains is a separate topic. They leave their snow-covered peaks into the sky, hiding in dense clouds. And only when lucky, in a cloudless day you can see how the green forest is replaced by the carpet of grass, and it dissolves in a dark gray stone against the background of the azure sky. These peaks are terrible and cold, almost all year round covers snow. When the Sun - he shines so much that it hurts, and therefore it is impossible to burst into the eyes, because it is impossible to tear away from this fascinating magic.
Traveling around the mountains - for hardy and prepared. Proud local nature is experiencing all: steep lifts, dangerous descent and air discharged.
We rose to the glacier on a two-headed ushble. Its height is 4700 meters. Of course, conquering such a height only for professionals. Mountains are harsh and not everyone can pass their tests. Our lifting began with 1500 m, and ended at an altitude of about 2500 m. Raised by horses. All above, above. The view was opened by panorama of valleys cut by mountain streams, with pastures of cows, horses. At some point, the lift became so cool that I had to hurry and lead a horse behind you: "Come on, you can" - I told her, and herself silent from the lack of oxygen. Muscles burned. And the rise is just a few tens of meters. And this is with a healthy lifestyle and sports 2 times a week.
Finally snow. Sun bake, but the air is cold. I want to breathe on the full lungs, but the air is like a cocktail with spices. Inhale so as to scrape the maximum - it does not work.
From what was most surprised - this is a piercing silence. In one day, we rose to Lake Mazir. Initially, they walked along the stream, then through the field of flowers, then through the forest, first deciduous, and then coniferous and, finally, being in the mountain valley - the snow saw a very night! Not birds or votes. Any loud sound is intensified ten times and echoed to distribute among the mountains.
Surprised and snow. It is already not enough. Cold, he contrasts with a multicolor meadow. We remembered childhood and blinded a snowman, only instead of the eyes of him - the heavenly blue flowers.
WEDDING
Georgia is ride not only for wine, khachapuri and stunning landscapes. Some in Georgia are going to marry / get married.
Welcoming strange, the minimum package of documents, which for most will be only 2 passports with the transfer to the Georgian language, the rapid procedure for design and no bureaucracy.
For example, in Tbilisi in the House of Justice, you can register for a marriage of 15 minutes, next to it, transfer passports to Georgian.
And you can go to the city of Love Signals, in which they paint 24 hours a day, there to also hold a wedding photo session and celebrate the birthday of the family in one of the local restaurants overlooking the Alazan Valley. For all this, see our video.
WEATHER
Weather in Georgia is changing as a mood. In the morning it can be cold and gray, then the sun can look and it will be hot, then it will rain and it will be cool again, then again the sun and so in a circle. And the higher in the mountains, the more often the weather changes.
Our departure to Svaneti - the Mountain Region of Georgia was canceled due to bad weather. I had to go 8 hours on a minibus. Only during the time the road several times did not delay the clouds, it was raining, and then the sun peeking out. For the first 3 days, the forecast promised rain, temperature +10, +12 degrees. For the Israelis is winter, and I have not imagined how we live in the mountains of the week.
But the air is dry here, and the wind quickly dries moisture. When + 15 and the sun shines, it seems that everything is +25 on the street!
Clothes and shoes
Going to the hike dress down - from a warm waterproof jacket to T-shirts, it will be useful. And still be sure to take sunscreen. The sun here is stronger than on the beach.
At the beginning of the summer, mountainous areas are rolled with a variety of streams, ground grounds and places in melting snow. In the villages of the road are often blurred from rain and places represent a mess of mud. Hiking non-shoe shoes will simply not be replaced.
Prices in Tbilisi for June 2016.
Taxi from the airport to the city center 25-30 Larry.
Lunch at the restaurant 20-30 Larry per person.
Entrance to the Botanical Garden - 2 Lari
Lifting on the funicular - 2 lari in both sides
Car rental -
(
Mitsubishi. Jeep) - $ 75 + 40 lari for gasoline (approximately 200 km - in the alarms and back)
Flight of Mestia - Tbilisi \u003d $ 30
Travel in the minibus Tbilisi - Mestia \u003d 100 Larry to people.
The chic hotel is 5 * in the old town, with a large track and panoramic window, including breakfasts - $ 130 per day for two.
One-bedroom apartment in the old town, in the center, 3 nights - 582 Shek
Taxi in the city - 5-10 Lari
Wine (Kindzazrauli) 20 lari for the bottle
Georgian teas - 5-6 lari for 100 gr
Churchhel 2-3 lari ap
Conclusion
Georgia - colorful and contrasting country. It's great when it is possible to live this color, traditions, culture.
In our first trip there was only a small part consisting of contrasts. There was modern Tbilisi, with its five-star hotels, stunning restaurants, old streets, shopping centers, the most delicious ice cream, modern government agencies and widespread freewi- fi “ Tbilisi Loves You.”.
There was Majeri, the village at an altitude of about 1600 meters in the beautiful Svanetia mountain region. Here, as early as the earth will plow on bulls, cooking cheese is preparing, Bekut Khachapuri and Podvashi on ancient Svan sorrows. As before, after successful gold mining, local gold kits, standing face to the flow of the river, turn to the highest strength of prayer-gratitude and drink a chance. Here the flock of cows and sheep graze peacefully in the meadows, and in the evening they return home themselves. Here, even time flows differently: slowly, measured.
Returning home, I close my eyes and imagine mountain landscapes in the frozen moments of the past.
Snow-covered vertices, green meadows, destroyed by floral disintegration, mountain streams and rivers that cut down the slopes, going down in the valley of the mountains.
Palms still remember the snowing snow in the hands and warm sunshine. And in the ears - ringing silence, violated only by rare twitter birds, a mix of cows and echo of the mountain rivers.
In this country, I first did not seem unusual. Or, in any case, not as I expected to see. Absolutely calm and balanced people, friendly police, clean streets of cities and a variety of natural landscapes. But even before I discovered all this, I was impressed by unobtrusive taxi drivers at the airport. They were correctly answered all the questions and were ready to take into the center of the capital in the meter for a very reasonable price. Well, and the taxi driver who returned home and agreed to throw me and my huge backpack for free, surprised even more than a young border guide that spoke to me in good English and at the end with a smile proclaimed: "Welcome to Georgia!"
Mother Georgia
I was going to this country for a long time. In neighboring Armenia and Azerbaijan, I already visited, and I really liked them. Georgia promised to be more interesting. A month for the month I was postponed the trip, preferring the study of African and Balkan Dale. In the end, the economic crisis intervened, and the idea of \u200b\u200ban expedition to one curious tropical island I easily and without regret, and without regret.
A taxi driver who took me on board of his "Volkswagen", on the way boasted the absence of corruption and Russian cars in Georgia, and the fact that his little daughter knows not a word in Russian. When I told him that he came from Belarus, and not from Russia, he somehow was offended: "I had to say right away. Well yes. You have good there. " In the end, we spare around Didube Station, where I planned to transfer to the minibus to the city of Mtskheta, just twenty-five kilometers from the capital. In Tbilisi, as in any big city, prices for hotels are high, but in a small Mtskhete just just for the economical traveler. But I never found the right minibus, and all because I did not know how to read in Georgian. Asked help from the driver of the first minibus. He studied me with a serious look for about five minutes, and when I was already going to search for some other assistant, the stepwise said: "I'm not going to Mtzhet, but next to Mtskheta. If you want, slim. " I, of course, wanted.
The minibus was driven by a country enterprise, so, besides me, it turned out to be thirty more. Think I exaggerate? Whatever! The driver checked workers with a list. Some of them did not like a foreigner with a backpack. He said sharply in my direction. "Where are you from? - the driver asked me and, having received the answer, said outrageous in Russian: - You see, he is from Minsk. So, a good person. " I think that if I had been from the bush or Tokyo, it would still be good, because the Georgians are good for everyone. Anyway, the question was removed. I was even planted for the most convenient place near the driver, and when he tried to plan me in a kilometer from Mtskheta, they began to be indignant and insisted on to bring to the very destination. Money, of course, did not take.
On the way, everyone tried to talk to me. I answered questions, although it was difficult, because at the same time I spoke half of the companions. From them I was surprised to find out that they all served in the army in Belarus or with Belarusians, drove into Brest, and the youngest listened to the songs of the Belarusian singer Bianchi. By the way, I learned from them from them about the existence of this singer himself.
In Mtskhete, I did not have to look for a long time. On one of the fences, I saw an advertisement written from the hand in English, and immediately was met by a welcoming owner, which was ready to rent a room with a kitchen, bathroom and toilet in just twenty-five lari (about fifteen dollars). What I want to stay for a week, he was very happy, and, while households in a hurry removed the accommodated housing, he treated me coffee with a cheese pie. When coffee was drinking, and the cake is eaten, I left a backpack on his care and went for a walk.
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I lived on this street in Mtskhete
Svetitskhoveli
At first it seemed to me that Mtzhet could be compared with our Zaslavl. The same little ancient town near the big megapolis. But in fact, Mtskheta for Georgians is much more than Zaslavl for Belarusians. Located on the merger of the Rivers of the Aragvi and Kura, she served the capital of the Cardlist kingdom for a long time. In Mtskheta preached the Baptist of Georgia, Holy Nino. And even when the capital was postponed to the Tbilisi disheighted from Persians, famous scientists, poets and just monks settled in this city. The main attraction of Mtskheta is a medieval cathedral of Svetitskhovili. It was built in the eleventh century in the cross-style crusadium borrowed in neighboring Byzantium and later acquired a powerful fortress wall. According to the legend, the church is resting under the temple, in which Christ went to Calvary. Orthodox Georgians - the people are very believed, and therefore there are always many pilgrims in Svetitskhov. Foreign tourists are mixed with them. In the cafe and on the streets you can hear English, Spanish and even Persian speech. Now the cathedral and neighborhoods around it are actively restored at the expense of the state and international organizations and published resemble the Mediterranean town with unhurried lifestyles.
Another important sacral center of Mtskheta is a women's monastery Shiomgvim. It was built in the twelfth century. The monastery is adjacent to the central square and is its main decoration. Photographing Shiomghvime, I almost missed the archaeological museum located next to the Archaeological Museum. Fortunately, the wipers who watered flowers suggested where to go. To be honest, the museum disappointed a little. It has a small room, it is not so many findings, so the main attraction is the excavation card with an explanation in Georgian and English.
A town park is a little away on the shores of Aragvi. Before it was not reached by hand of landscaping. It looks a bit launched, but not devoid of charm. The ruins of the middle of the last century, strange stone sculptures in the style of cubism, as well as good views of the dilapidated castle, located on one of the hills above the city, give him a special appeal. The guide recommends that low-budget travelers stop in the park for the night. Tents I did not notice in it, but the company with huge backpacks, echoing in Russian, met. By the way, these were the only Russian-speaking tourists encountered by me in Georgia.
On the opposite shore, the church of the Holy Cross Javar is towers on the mountain - the oldest and most holy in Georgia. It was built in the sixth century in place, where the Holy Nino put the first wooden cross. It is believed that the cross is still resting under the Church. In the Middle Ages and nowadays, a small monastic community lived in Jvari. By the way, it was in it a legendary Lermontov McSyri. Under the mountain is the lively route Tbilisi - Gori. I have repeatedly had to see how at the sight of the church, the shoes of the minibuses threw the steering wheel and began to be baptized. Fortunately, it did without accidents. But such an inexperienced passenger, as I, still experienced anxious feelings.
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Shiomgvim.
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Park and cubism style figures
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The city of Mtskheta, in which I stopped, was an ideal place to visit other interesting places - Tbilisi, Kazbegi and Gori.
You could get to Tbilisi on the bus bus. Fortunately, he walked every half hour. About Georgian minibuses should be said particularly. As in Belarus, Georgian road transporters are mainly German "Mercedes". Passengers are always a lot. Often you have to ride standing. Conventional drivers in Tbilisi and beyond themselves calmly and do not. But only not mines! They can easily violate all possible traffic rules. If anyone is solved to overtake the high-speed sports cars or trim heavy "Hummers", then this is the minibus. From Mtskheta to Diduba, I traveled in just ten minutes. For a taxi would have happened longer.
Didube Station served for me with Tbilisi gates. This is a pretty chaotic place where parking lots and minibuses are adjacent to the noisy market and numerous cheap snacks in the style of "Joined Khachapuri and Save Beer". But on the market there are always a lot of cheap vegetables and fruits. It is curious that potatoes and bananas in Georgia stand four times cheaper than in Belarus.
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Center Tbilisi
From Didube to the city center is easiest to reach the subway. It is in Tbilisi very old. There are not many stations. Advertising inside - too. To take advantage of them, you need to buy a special card for which the fee for each trip is separately accrued. The names of the stations are announced in Georgian and English, which is very convenient for foreigners. For them, at the Tbilisi City Hall, an information center has been created, where you can get a city map, avenue with a list of attractions, hotels and restaurants, as well as use the Internet, and absolutely free. The information center is always a lot of people. Most foreign travelers are economical backpackers. Special income in the treasury of the city and the country they do not bring. But the backpackers are well organized, especially in terms of impressions. Once free-sinking backpacks opened Nepal, Turkey and Nicaragua for solid tourists. Now they open Georgia. Tbilisi is accustomed to a foreign presence and, it seems, they know well what and from anyone to expect. For example, Gypsies, collecting alms around the subway, are very intrusive when they hear Russian speech, but immediately retreat, it is worth answering them at least a word in English. .jpg)
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Tbilisi is at the same time Georgia in a miniature and a unique beautiful city in itself. Prospectus Rustaveli is much already the shorter of our obversability prospectus. In order for the guidebooks, there are few buildings on it. So it can be deleted from the list of places of mandatory to visit. At best, drove along it by taxi in the evening when you turn on the backlight. But the old Tbilisi area is a surprisingly charming place with a lot of narrow paved streets with wooden balconies, small park areas, restaurants in Paris and oriental styles, famous sulfur baths and the old temples of a wide variety of denominations. What, for example, is the only mosque in Tbilisi, where services are held at the same time for Muslim Sunnov and Shiites!
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Mosque in Tbilisi
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Narikala
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City over the river
Having passed along the embankment of the chicken, you can admire the spiers of the grand more modern churches on the opposite shore, and even on houses hanging right above the cliff. And after all, not to be afraid to build such in the seismic zone!
The air in the old Tbilisi is drunk even without wine, and with wine - even more. When you sit at the table of a cafe, slowly sipping white dry wine from the glass slowly, and communicate with the same travelers from Latvia, time flies unnoticed. Somehow forget that you need to see a lot. On the mountain above Tbilisi, the huge monument of the Mother of Georgia, depicting a woman with a sword in one hand and the Cup of Wine - to another. According to the idea of \u200b\u200bthe creators, the sword is for enemies, and wine - for friends. The last time the Georgians waved with swords only three years ago, but somehow unsuccessful. Probably because their enemies had automata and other more modern weapons. But wines for friends they reserve a lot. Moreover, they themselves seem to prefer to drink vodka. You can climb on this mountain on foot or on the funicular. I climbed on foot and myself swung myself for it. Nothing particularly interesting, except for the trees and the old church, was not on it. But the two neighboring mountains offered something much more worthwhile: the colorful ethnographic village, the Botanical Garden and the fortress of Narikalu. I had to go down, and then climb again and again. After two bottles of wine, I will tell you, it is not very easy.
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Main prospect
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Pey or lose 🙂
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Metech Cathedral
With another famous Georgian drink - transparent grape chambers, I met in the north of Georgia, in Kazbegi, where only two days came. On the first day I was going to make a walk through the picturesque surroundings, and on the second - to climb one of the smallest vertices for local standards and picked a little. But man suggests, and life has. The driver who served the hotel where I settled, so delighted the guest from Belarus that invited me to the real Georgian feast. I could not miss such a case. Georgians - the people most hospitable in the world, but sometimes they should be reminded about it. Arriving in Georgia, you will not even be sure to get at the table. In any case, the other travelers met by me a senior from this, but I did not save me. At first we drank a simple home wine. I listened to long wise toasts, and then the owner brought a huge dove of the bottle. They say that I drank two full glasses, but I myself remember anything about it. The next day, the head splitted, as after hitting the hammer. What are these walks around the surroundings and even more so ascent? The hostess of the hotel disappeared me with strong coffee and advised it in the future never to drink a chance. To convince me of the justice of your words, she poured the remains of the drink into the mug and lowered the match into it. It was hampered so that the Blue Flames mounted to the ceiling. Almost pure alcohol. And as soon as I mastered two glasses?
The last toast of Georgians always drink for his president. Well remember President Saakashvili. "Misha is a good president. God forbid him health! " - It can be heard everywhere. They say that before the revolution of roses in the country, banditry and corruption flourished. Now everything is calm. In the center of the city you can leave an open car with a key in the ignition castle, return to the next morning, and no one touches it. Sometimes they scold the president for the war with Russia, for the daily television shows in the style of "Misha who arrived and brought order", but admit that there are few other decent politicians in Georgia.
Contrary to popular belief, Georgians are not too emotional. They smile rarely. Cry or laugh even less often. The most popular word in Georgian language is "Ara", that is, "no". Its they use much more often the words "Ke" ("Yes"). The era of romanticism in European literature was a comparison: "Beautiful, like Georgian." For a long time I could not understand where it happened. There are many beautiful girls in Georgia, but no more than in some other country. In fact, the beauty of Georgians can be understood only, looking not on young beauties, but on their moms and grandmothers. A slim body. Cold proud look. Romantic poets were to be embedded.
A week later in Mtskhet, the owner's wife's wife in which I shot the room, I told me important news. Tomorrow her niece returns from Greece. Very beautiful and educated young feature. I can get to know her and even marry. It was a sign. The next morning I gathered my backpack, got into the train and went further to the west. Sitting on a backpack in the tambour, I detail asked the lubricant seedside of the elderly conductor about what else to look at his hospitable country. Mtskheta, Tbilisi and Kazbegi remained somewhere behind, but the journey in Georgia continued.
Dmitry Samokhvalov
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Now I ask everything about Georgia two iron questions. The first of them - what did rest cost, how much is it worth? That's right, the right question.
In general, it is very easy to calculate the trip to Georgia. It is perfectly represented in the interference by the efforts of enthusiasts from the CIS countries. Lady Google will give a page like:
After examining the Internet, we arrived quite prepared. Made prints with information, routes for walking. It turned out to be even a surprise: we were asked to bring the Svan Caps, I wrote to Svaneti, how much they cost - "35-40 Lari" was the answer, and they are 5 Lari in Tbilisi. Souvenirs in Tbilisi - twice as cheaper than in the resort and the "iconic" attractions like Svetitskhoveli.
A little my impressions.
Trud budget:
1000 rubles - souvenirs that need to take with them, how without it.
213 hryvnia - train Kharkov-Kiev-Kharkov.
150 hryvnia - expenses in Ukraine.
310 dollars - Flight Kiev-Tbilisi-Kiev.
10-15 euros - Duty and Beer at the airport of the city of Mukhin.
20 dollars - transfer to Gudauri one way (back came out for free).
$ 20 - an excursion in Mtskheta-Tbilisi in the middle of the banking (neglect should not be neglected).
$ 30x8 days \u003d 240 dollars - housing with two meals.
197 Lari - ski lifts.
$ 150-200 - costs and souvenirs.
In the picture - Lari. One lari is 18 rubles with a tail. In each lary 100 Tetri. Circle solid lari, lari. Tetri, Tetri. The most difficult thing was to get used to the fact that Lari is not hryvnia. If 10 hryvnia on Russian standards PSHIK, then the same lari is already the amount. And these papers fly apart exactly equally.
Lari course at Tbilisi Airport. 100 rubles - 5.2 lari. In the city a little better, changed 5.35. The difference is at all small.
How much is what? If you eat, then the cheapest and Georgian version - of course, Hinki. By the way, seeing Khinkali and Pelmeni in the English Georgian Georgian menu, I realized that dumplings are a Georgian word! But it is not necessary for the dumplings to go there, but one Hinkalina costs 60 Georgian Tetri - 10 Russian rubles. If you eat 5-7 pieces, you do not want to eat until the morning. In the internet they write: I can eat 10, and for me and 15 is not a question. Damn, yes, at least you eat them twenty. Bush and do not try other Georgian dishes. Here is the menu in one cafe:
Another menu. Illustrated - better. Imagine yourself the character and size of the dish. The latter is important. In doubtful cases, it is better to resort to the help of waiters, although not a panacea. I expected the Adjara Khachapuri- "Boat" will be the size of the palm. In exchange, the product of the format A4 was brought ... Further food was meaningless. But it helps if you drink with a boozer. The cost of kebab is indicated not for 100 grams, but for a portion (grams 300). In general, reboot there - as Nefig do. Twice "burned". I think even those who are going to gastronomic tourism, it is difficult to leave more than 500 rubles in the restaurant for food. It is simply impossible so much.
At the sight of the invoice, fall into a stupor ...
... especially when the total amount of 6 lari is less than it comes out. Honestly, I just then noticed it, already on the photo. We do not need someone else ... In any case, they were compensated by tea. The score is on three. Running, groaned the balls.
What else? Homemade Wine - 10 Lari per liter (bought from the cut, but it poured it more often), Chacha in a cafe - too. Chaqi doses are less than half a liter, in my opinion, do not measure in money at all. I ordered 200 grams - heard in response: "Take half a litter, the money will be the same." The factory, bottle of wine begins from 5 Lari - so-so by the standards of local, according to our standards - normal, wine as wine. Guaranteed wonderful - from 20 lari. Best Georgian Cognac "Saradzhishvili" - 22 Lari for half a liter. Travel around the city on the subway and public transport - 50 Tetri. Mobile Georgian Beeline costs 10 Lari for Sims, 3 on the account, enough for a long time. Products in stores - like us. Dear restaurants in Georgia, probably, there is no, all the same "medium", as in the color menu above, and delicious. Even in Tbilisi on the main Prospect named after Shota Rustaveli, come in any, do not fear.
Everything is in the internet, in one word. I do not know what I wrote all this. It's just one of the two Iron questions. Once you ask - you need to answer. I do not argue, we saw while a little, but what they saw - the same share. In the next post I will answer the second iron question about Georgia.
