Trip to Mahar Gorge. Mahar holidays or the best place for mountain recreation with children gorge Mahar where
During my years of sightseeing practice, I often heard questions from tourists like: "I want to go to the mountains, but I'm afraid of them" or "Is there any unusual place-power in the Caucasus, otherwise I am extrasens" or "where I can withdraw the blind An outlined grandmother "," And what if I want to go on holiday with a cat "and so on. There is absolutely nothing funny in the fact that people choose a holiday destination according to their specific, sometimes not always standard views and preferences. Here, as they say "there is a product" on any buyer. " The Caucasian Mountains are so diverse that the miniature Alps, Pyrenees, Himalayas and Anda are combined in themselves.
And now if you hold a similar classification and really choose places for specific types of rest, it would be quite obvious that the Mahar Gorge in the Karachevsky district of the Republic of Karachay-Cherkessia is ideal for children's or family holidays. Why? This is what this post says.
Mahar (Translated from the Turkic - "Warrior") is a river and gorge and even the general name of the resort, located just a few kilometers from Aula Studkula. Located at an altitude of 1600 meters above sea level, it has a unique microclimate, composed of the cumulative effect of vegetation, atmospheric pressure and location of mountain peaks. Here, on a small block of land, almost everything is concentrated on a decent replacement for expensive sanatoriums and new-fashioned resorts: there is a clean drinking water, medicinal Narzans, natural terns and most importantly - no anthropogenic activity.
At the very beginning of the post, I called Mahar - a children's resort. The fact is that the soft almost windless climate of the valley, and the special properties of the most ordinary river water at one time were repulsed by this area from the plague epidemic (the only one in the North Caucasus). Even according to statistical data, there has always been the largest number of long-livers and animals sick less often than in other mountainous areas. Believe it or not. Old men - Sunchandiya, Ahmad and Rosa (who, by the way, there are all eleven children), watched the local Sovie Base of Recreation Globus, they said that in the USSR, when the foundation of the Kiev Institute was here, glory was glory about the favorable influence of the Mahar climate on babies. So how many people poured into these edges! Then everything slowly forgot. On as they say, gold, it is shining in the bag.
So, Aul Stukkulak is located about 20 km from the Mahar Gorge. This is the last place with a working cellular connection. And good. Only nature, nothing superfluous. Controls of the tire and hiding by changing them for several hours, we decided to swell right in the middle of the way, not risking to go further on the dark, stony road.
Well, the next day, having had a quick hand, we safely reached the first local attractions - the source of the family of Shamanov known as the Shamanlans Narzan.
The source is very easy to skip. Approximately 17 kilometer from Studyard on the right side of the road can see a shaky log bridge. Once all these lands were fairly divided between different Karachai surnames or childbirth. This is how different the names of the broken, sources and mountain arrays were entrenched. Having tried the barbed wick, the sprinkling all around the iron okra move on.
At the entrance to Mahar, there are no identification signs of either plates with the name of the terrain. On the left side, the word "Bilal" was brought by clouds. This is the name of the owner, perhaps the most popular local base. Bilyal Tambiyev is a kind of marketing brand. He and cook, he and a landscaping, and an animator and many more who. It is always crowded here. Relocation side is another base, "Forest Polyana", the former border guard. There are less noisy companies. Even further there are the Bases "Globus", "at Mahmud" and a summer children's camp based on Karachai University. Now, however, other bases are building, but in general, while the road is not asphalted, you should not worry about the influx of tourists.
We are located on one of the spacious and picturesque pollas: put the tents, found a fire from the former tourists and drank firewood.
One of the main advantages of Mahara is the presence of gentle walking routes, which make it possible to make moms or dads in erggyukzaks, do not get out of the strength and enjoy the surrounding landscape with everyone. Rest, originally planned as a wellness assigned clear, almost sanatorium compliance with instructions: Early rise (our kids wake up no later than 6-00), hour walk to Narzanny sources with a set of height 250 m, breakfast, walk again, dining sleep, and again hike on Narzan. Longing, you will say. Perhaps, but through it you need to go through. And adding all the charges of strawberries or wild raspberries, swimming in mountain rivers and campaign on the waterfalls It turns out quite a non-free vacation)
By the way, about bathing in the mountain rivers. Who would have thought, but our kids splashed in ice water (not long, truth) no worse than two small trouts. And then as many as four hours slept in the shadow of the spreading green branches. This experience is not for nervous parents)))
Inspired by last August trip, not further as the expiration of two months we were treacherously invaded in these edges. Then, from the Uzunkol's studio development, we went to the Uzunkla, and then in the valleys of her tributaries of Merda and Kichkinkol ( the report on where in general terms is described what is the area of \u200b\u200bthe Gvandra). Now I encouraged the idea of \u200b\u200bslipping on the second equivalent Sleeve Sleeve River Kuban: Studel-Mahar-Gondaray. Weather-climatic conditions for the implementation of the plan have just been fabulous. Between two cold rainy cyclones, as an order fell a window of perfect sunny weather. In the midst of golden autumn. Simply lightning outbreak of bright, but very short pastry summer. See the snowy caps of the vertices with a multicolored forest at their foot - my long-standing dream, which for a long time could not come true for various reasons and misstitutions. To rekwind such a chance, being on a two-week vacation, I would not affect any circumstances. My companions desire and capabilities coincided in the same way. So, the fate of Pinkami pushed our restless purse to meet the desired goal.
In general, I really liked everything. In addition to the expected phythospheres, the purity and bluewaves of Water as the Kuban itself and her closest saters are impressed. In the summer, these artery look differently: violent due to active melting inexorably crawling around the glaciers, and muddy because of the same. However, remembering the recent reconnaissance bars in Uzunkol, I still caught some moments of comparative characteristics. For those whose plans include a walking and contemplative recreation style without a special strain and excuses for passes, high-mountain lakes and upper panoramic points, I will note that the local valleys do not look so impressive as in Uzunkol. We didn't notice the approaching vertices in the semblance of the Kichkinkolskaya horseshoe, bricks and pyramids. Lightly annoying the local abundance of trash from the activities of lumberjacks in the form of abandoned black stumps, branches and bric. The Mahara Valley on its length is soaked with giant metal poles, stretched through Nakhasa Pass to Abkhazia. It is necessary to decently erupted in order not to hook into the lens when shooting landscapes a hung wire, or pillars. Also, it is also likely to assume that, thanks to the finding of mineral springs in Mahara, a good road from the village. Student, and the necessity of the presence of a borderpropus within the stay of the Körth-Melley Polyana (Merge of Gondaray and Mahara), the people in the summer at bases and campsites are not small here. For someone, the last factor may seem favorable, but not only for such cynical types, like me. By the aggregate outlined causes of wildlife conditions, such a reality can be called with stretch. And therefore the palm of the championship in the external state and the general dignity of the main valleys unambiguously give Uzunkol. As regards to alpine panoramas, there are no complaints. That small Tolik nishtyakov, whom they managed to hook, liked. But there is already a pack of another level.
A mansion is worth highlighting Lake Ullu-Koyl. The topic is so self-sufficient, which deserves a separate visit to the study, and is able to satisfy, perhaps, every taste.
And so several times. Another hard-rose obstacle on the road.
Like last time the entire first day I was prevented by the way on the road and arrangement. Light time since the summer was significantly doused and it was playing against us. Podnatorsis in overcoming the Uzunkol roadmakes and Koldobin Sparrow this time quite disagreened by us: dried down the gorges as far away, but to the attractions of interest, respectively, as close as possible. At the same time, we chose the glade for camp one cooler than the other, naturally in walking distance from the carboard. Both of these factors, as well as the concerns of more enhanced nightly colds above 2000 m., Committed to a collegial solution again in favor of radial day outputs with the return back to the "base".
So, having caught a cat's pass in the village in the village, closer to the evening, slowly crash towards T / B Globus. On the floor of the path, half-jammed swinging, as if the simulator for sea swimmers, the suspended wooden bridge over the river Studellan. On the opposite shore, the spring with a source of delicious and slightly giving Narzan hydrogen sulfide.
At least, Flaha-fly, do not fail!
150 and tomorrow I will not go to school?
Around the spring is a mess from the mud and askotan manure. Apparently the local thinness is not a fool and also not to arrange a pilgrimage to correct health. While reigning within a radius of 20 m. A specific background, resembling the smell of beloved Motherland in childhood, the aesthetics does not add source, but rather, on the contrary, it causes discomfort.
Next, I will pass the Globe to the Turber and we are moving through Mahar. The road after the development is becoming even more military. But the sparrow does not in any way stop. Having fucked by the process of light road extremethmus, manage to slip past the main deposits mahar Narzan And we approach the gate of the borderpost. Here, "on time" it turns out that Lucy instead of his skipping captured a husband's pass from the house, currently missing in our courageous ranks for valid reasons. If we were now standing on the checkpoint on the way to Ockol, then on this journey successfully ended. But praise the heavens, the local order is more likely. To universal flashes, it turned out that, on the presentation of the passport, she can walk throughout Mahar until the next border station under Nakhara Pass, go to Ull-Koyl and introduce up to half of the Gondaray Gorge, but to the first border post. Provide high guests with decent shelter and festive dinner for some reason refused, but they advised to drive a little further than their post and become a camp 100 meters behind the mouth rivers Triahozoy In Mahar. The Green Guardian was right: Polyana here is needed. Fire around in bulk. Near the river and stream. Fall beautifully. For this another 150 Narzan.
So Polyana looks in the morning.
And no neighbors. Such a side and free!
The culmination of the autumn blossoms against our glade
In the morning, special purpose pensioners almost dangle me for early rise. After breakfast climb along the river three-sea on the Dautsky ridge. The goal is to go to one of the Ull-Koyl passes, inspect at least from above the lake with the title title and visit the Tryoch-coalproof. Well, it is desirable today to return to the camp. For the first day of day, plans are somewhat ambitious. Moreover, something of us was not in the mountains a couple of months, but a cat and more. But I'm calm for him. Easier than new that has come down from the conveyor, the terminator is to be eared to erase than this pillar with a congenital atomic reactor. As the panorama is lined up significantly began to change. For the walker we achieve the upper cat.
Sochara left below
Next, the devils took, the shepherds were confused. Despite the presence of a navigator with the track, we were not lonely left from the kosha, as it was desirable, but to the right. This seemed logical and more convenient. And the cattle desires with genuine enthusiasm assured that both options are in principle are equivalent. Plus, again, a packed trail ... In general, nothing terrible happened. Just for this error subsequently had to cut a clumsy excess hook and hid for about an hour of extra time. In the time being stormed one tier after another. Panorama is all majestic.
In the center of Nahara's teeth, 3784 m. And the ridge of Klych
To the left of us saves medium sized blue lake.
Acclimatization on the go. Over Lucy's head, the most lake. Rather, left behind below. On the right, the shoulders of the top of the Topra, 3984 m, at any time of the year heavily snow-covered, powerful and very beautiful mountain.
It seems that the main lake is already near. The last inflection and ... the complete presence of the absence of the desired reservoir below. Tsuugundder spent the night there! Roll to the right of our glorious quartet on the saddle of the Passage of Nizhny Ull-Koyl, adjacent to the East-kown pass. And the lake was resting to the left, on the upper tier of lab bodies, cut by a large waterfall arising from it. Waterfall from here is visible quite clearly, but the lake at all. Realizing that they were dragging, it became on top to fully traverse on the stones to the vertex, separating the passes of the lower and eastern Ullu-Koyl. Then, after replenishing the stock of depleted with chocolate candies, quickly rose to the eastern one.
Poted East Ull-Koyl, 3050 m. Behind the top of Rindji-AGE, 3731 m. In the date Ridge. Hi Petrovich!
The opposite of our lifting the slope of the pass is completely in the snow.
Left at the top of the top hat, which had to be bypass from the saddle, located in the middle. Right on the horizon Elbrus. In good weather, he is visible from many places Gvandra.
Here he is eared, closer
Arbitrary hide and seekers are over. At the bottom, it was clearly manifested ...
Lake Ull-Koyl, 2844 m. Over. m. (Big lakes - with Turk.). The area of \u200b\u200bthe water surface is 16 hectares. One of the largest in the West Caucasus and is dominated in the Kuban basin.
To the lake go down the boom, Ali how?
In fact, descending the shore is not an option. Fresh snow on the steep slopes of passages from the water from the reservoir quickly made clarity on this issue. Not so caught, although it is necessary to hemify to it.
Who pulled the rope with color flags? Can Svabdyu walked here?
You as you want, and I went ...
The second part of the program provided for the exit to the neighboring Circus of the Verkhovy Triozhok. Here we were expected again unpleasant surprise faster chairs. The fact is that Poted East Ullu-Koyl is separated from the circus of the three-grades downward down the ride, which is necessary to somehow climb. The incident was that from the side of the Eastern Ull-Koyl, the ridge looked samented, but from the side of the three-grades, he exposed another unpleasant side in the form of a cliff cliffs. I suspected anything, we quickly felt quickly, but then they began to scratch the turnips as now on the other side fall down. And here it would take a wise decision: to look around where the common panorama of the tri-aging, and turn the horses to reverse. So no, they straightened to look for the descent.
The rigging valleys of the river Triahozoi. From here noticeably only the lower blue lake. To the left, on the upper tiers, they still lie one by one, not counting small. Right way to Pass Western Ull-Koel. It is now obvious that the most logical thread of the route to Lake Ull-Koyl through the Circus of the Valley past the lakes of Triochok. So you can hook all three lakes and further to climb the pass.
Like a mountain goat gods on the back of the range in search of options for descent to lakes. Below they felt something like a similar path, but they didn't get to the end on it and got into an intermediate chute separatingj. Snages into two parts and consisting of bulk gravel and creeping buoy. Over it, they threw another 200 height meters, until finally jumped out from there. As a result, the neighboring valley still got, but to no avail: lakes in fact were much higher than us. All this hemorrh is not different as a ps under the tail. Who is today on the schedule goat's scape?
Bog of two valleys. At the bottom of the thin thread flows Mahar. We are there.
Slightly earlier, I provoked a stonepad on the descent. In the guys did not please, but the mountain partridge was bored. But having risen, she spoiled, having deprived us of a lot of hope to enjoy a child with Narzan. Home managed to go back. From this one-day epic, I concluded that with a more rational route, a strong group and a long lighting day, the tasks are really fulfilled. And even with descent to the lake. At the same time, it is possible to return through the bottom Ull-Koyl and go to Mahar in the Globus area.
The next day, the people did not show a special zeal on the early rise. And there is nowhere to rush, the program today is more sparing than yesterday's race: walk to the end of the Mahara Valley and wonder what it is still capable of surprising us.
Valley of the River Mahar-Su. View in the direction of the glade Körth-Mel
Posted along the course appears openwork, very beautiful long waterfall. An unexpected and pleasant surprise.
Come closer.
The weather just whispers! Beginning of October, and we are in high spirits in two and three thousand walk in the sun in T-shirts. Although at night it boils. Cover temperature drops. Heat and light at this time here for a long time there is no and cold air envelops instantly, only only you covers the shadow.
Having passed a little further again we find the right awesome waterfall, but a completely different psychotype. This violent, hides on top in the canyon-shaped cleft on the steep slope of the ridge and crashing about the rock further flows to the bottom of the usual stream. To get to him, it should not be chilled to shine up right along the row, littered with wet buoy. Something after yesterday's somehow in Padlu strained. Yes, and the mood in the morning is a pleasure. We decided to divide: a cat with a louse, like the youngest, climb to the waterfall, and we are with a sparrow, like lonch days, put on the gorge.
Another bridge
Clean waters of Mahara.
On the path of further follows, it turned out that the Sparrow forgot his passport in a backpack left at the glorious Asces of Canyoning, storming right now. But, frankly, we are not chib and upset about this. First, the passage to the Nakhar Pass is closed even the impressiveness of the skipping and the maximum allow you to move to the Mahar lake. And secondly, there is no particular time. It's time to lift from Mahara today and relocate in gondara. Good towards a little.
Toppers Mahar-Su. View in the direction of Pozhar, Bulgar, Chully Chat. Behind the supports that can not be avoided here, the borderpost.
In general, the explosion of emotions Today's walk frankly did not cause. Returned to the guys. And they are just superdant, the waterfall pleased with the soul. Did not lose.
Still, grade and powerful water supply
Do you have an unnecessary umbrella with yourself?
View from the waterfall to the opposite cuff gorge. Young handsome mountains!
Ah, yes, well done! They descended in exactly our arrival. It's time to go.
We move. On the way to the proliferation of the tributaries, it is accumulating all the same on Narzans. It is necessary to catch it in detail!
Similar bridge
Unlike the studio source of half-school use, this fertile place I very much liked. And the taste of water awesome, gives the iron with an admixture of organic matter. Fresh, carbonated, cold. You can't buy such a store.
Orange-brown color on the surface of the soil and stones give iron oxides
Ustress of Narzan's stream with Mahar. So much good straight to the river ...
The source literally budcott and bubbles on the surface of the output of underground keys. As if boils. A flashing with an outbreak gives the effect of presence at the bottom of the golden sand.
Freshly does not happen. From the underworld, right in the neck
The road to Gondara was the same as enhanced as in Mahara. Nevertheless, the sparrow threw us not much, not a little, to the merger with Jalpakol. For the next temporary refuge, we chose a wonderful glade in the forest, someone previously overhauled. And for all signs used the previous owners for a long time. Next to the traditional fire with hemp and benches Wooden shelves with shelves for dishes and foods, steps of an earthen staircase on the hillock, the remains of the bath in the form of a frame covered with black polyethylene, and even duck up, covered by stones Parasha. It turns out early we mourned a lovely glade on Mahara. This is not worse.
Lucy supplemented the picture, dragging a kind of totem near the benches and the fire.
Is it an attempt to speak with his own shadow? "Tell me, uncle, because not a gift from the fathers who traveled the Suncedar?" Behind the tent nursery of a young frank
The only ambush is an abundance of the fallen and revealed to the extremes of mice. One of them has been adjusted in the packaging Russian cheese, the other climbed into the pack of napkins, ordaging them with laces. And one more little gray bastard climbed to me in a tent. But the consequences are overtaken later, a day later.
In the morning we walk on gondara. Liusa accompanies us to half the gorge, namely to the borderpost, and returns back, arranging himself a noon
Branches of ripe barbaris. Although it fell freezing, but still sour to impossibility
Good well done between the blas of our smaller
The Gondara Valley turned out to be more interesting and picturesque Makharskaya, although she also got from the forest belt. More wild and low, with a review of pretty beautiful, slender vertices. Abundance of cool pollasts like Uzunkol.
This is one of the gondaraev brothers.
On the left along the course, at the top of the wooded side of the gorge, in the plot of a large waterfall, 40--50 meters on the VKIDK. But Lucy has already turned reversed, so he nor all the subsequent interests were not covered by it. And on the post or soul. Worked the law of meanness.
The ends of the gorge crowds a luxury circus with a glacier gondara.
At the foot of the glacier, a huge rocky glade by type of a green hotel in Elbrusye
And a whole herd of hungry horses, as if lost, or abandoned by someone here. They approached closely in the hope of obtaining a treat, but except for unconvincing attempts of moral support did not find anything.
Long-awaited autumn marafet
Oh, this blueberry! Slissed, frozen, but still does not give rest.
So okay. Time is noon, but it's time to return. On the way back it is necessary to wrap on Indica, one more influx of gondaras to and hello there.
Next to the mouth of the Indrocoa we arrange a snack and at the same time carry out a staff meeting, during which suddenly plans change. The idea appears to return to the camp, to play with anchor and advanced to a new place: on the merger of Kichkincol with Studechin (not the Kichkin, which is in the Uzunkol, and the other. In the KCR rivers with a similar name, I know three). From there, the classic route is beginning to Lake Ull-Koyl, which we dispersed with the pass. Now it was possible to approach him closely, to the shore itself. With the exception of missing people, the proposal is adopted unanimously. Indica and Jalpolac leave for later. Moreover, we recently seen the latter from the Kurso Range, and while the appetite broke. At the end, I wanted to choose an emotional impact option more guaranteed.
Approach the camp. From the forest brings smoke. Lyuda's unrestal about our plans did firewood and sacrificed the fire. It is not aware that it is not destiny to spend the night. In the pace are going and forward (that is, back), to Studechlagan. On the way another time taking Narzan. Having moved along the large bridge, the student is on a huge glade of several soccer fields. Closer to the mouth of Kichnekol Polyana began to be separated by the transfer on a whole bunch of individual pollas, on one of which we also slowed down. And again the royal place for camp among the birches. The third is the third. This is one of the main charms of Gvandra.
At night, I woke up from Shorokha and took it for the appearance of a marriage of the beasts. But when I felt that someone was trying on my head three times, I realized that the night hunt was avoiding the sabotele. In the light of the lantern began to rake the stuff scattered along the tent. The cat at this time of Dream like Suslik, buried in a sleeping bag with head and loud nozzles. There at least from the gun. Not that mouse, raccoon will not hear next to them. Is that as a result of attempts to direct violence. Began the game imposed to me in a hide and seek, alternating with a chase on short distances with obstacles. With the next attack, the rodent-pest has been collected in a lounge, the pest has been eliminated and thrown into the external environment. The special operation is completed without assistance, but sleep after that flew away for a long time. In the morning I discovered a hole on the mesh wall of the tent, and quite high above the earth. Apparently, turning the tent in Gondara, I grabbed the mouse in her departure. Being cooked and trying to gain freedom, she sprung to me a grid. Even easily fell. Could sneak outdoor case, or bottom. Science: Never leave a tent open. It is necessary to flash at least the grid on the doors.
New cool morning. We come out late, at 8.00. Just in case, lanterns grabbed. For we do not know how much time will take this radial. Suddenly I will not come back. Concerns turned out to be in vain. The running process took 7 hours in both directions, plus an hour was scored on the lake. In the fifth hour already returned to the camp. They fell evilly, but the pleasure got a cool. Perhaps this is the main raisin on this trip.
Valley of the Kichkin River (according to other sources of Kichachinak). We are already in the alpike, the forest zone remained behind. The height will have to recruit about the same as in the first running day. Ryndzhi-Age directly.
Here, too, there is a source of Narzan on the stream-influx of brown stones. But there is no desire and time to climb upstream the stream of the stream. Let's not spray.
Updated all sorts of details will go to the final phase. After a long lift, we go to the Lake Gitsch-Koyl (small lake) - the harbinger of Ull-Koyl. But the latter must be overcome another tier with a waterfall
Climbing along the waterfall on the right, plucking the ripe lingonberry. Forces on the outcome, it is clearly time to eat, but the dining procedure is decided to produce on the lake itself. Not so much in pursuit of more aesthetic conditions for meals and smoke, how much because of the fear of blinking optimal lighting. Otherwise, all work on smart. Finally reach the shore.
In the middle of the saddle to which we are three days ago
went out of the Mahar Valley
with the first attempt to see the lake. From here even obviously, why we could not succeed. It was not visible from there was a guitce-kel, although it is right under the saddle.
Ullu-Koyl in color and transparency of water looks at the seven-color in Arkyse, but much larger. Yes, and the surrounding mountain circus is incomparably richer. This is one of the most ambitious and beautiful lakes that I had to see. That's right that they came here. With the pass, it does not impress such an impression. Yes, and from there you will not determine the lake as a lake. However, to carefully consider it and successfully, run around it is thorough. And it is better to come with overnight. Parking at the shore are available. Although lower, the small lake, their more. And the place is more comfortable.
Here and now it appeared before us in all of its magnificence
In front of the dinner, Lucy decided to swim and without any doubts, and the preludes with overclocking was bulled into the water. From her words, the driver turned out to be warmer than the air temperature. BR-R! Winter on the nose, wind and height under 3000, and she arranged here, extreme car!
The final shelter note is inserted in this short, but harmonious composition. Tomorrow you can go home.
Strange, where is the cow?
The locality, which today will be speaking, not to see in price lists of travel companies offering excursions in the North Caucasus. Most local residents are surprised to ask her name and try to clarify, and where it is. In response, it will have to respond dryly that this is one of the neighboring gorges with a domable. Today we will talk about Mahara.
Mahar is a mountain river, one of the tributaries of Studeling, flowing into Kuban. The road to the Mahar Gorge begins in Aule Studella. In the spring of 2018, a bridge over the Kuban was destroyed in the village after severe rain. Now there are restoration work. At this time, a temporary detour was organized through Aul Hurzuk (+6 km along the asphalt road and +6 km along the right bank of the river on the dirt road). Hence Elbrus - about 30 km. In good weather, his Western snow-covered slopes can be seen among the top of the Gorge of the Ullukhurzuk River.
The road in the narrow bridge crosses the Kuban and then goes on the left bank of the river along the dirt road. Vintage settlements in this area deserve a separate description. They are considered the birthplace of Karachai people, have a long history. There are many historical monuments and interesting natural objects. For a traveler traveler, these places will postpone in memory in the form of cabbage fields, cows, grazing on the slopes, and countless wooden fences and stone fences.
From Studyard to the Mahar Gorge of about 20 km of a dirt road of satisfactory quality. To the right slopes of the gorge, mainly have herbaceous vegetation. On the left to the height of about 3 km rise mountain slopes, swords of coniferous forests. In one and a half kilometers from the top student (+4 km from Studechlant), the traveler gets into a wide border of the Dulyzen. During the spring floods, this area is often charged. The Studet River is divided into several sleeves, forming the island. Local cows, grazing along all the gorges, love to relax on these islands.
After a border, the valley is narrowed, and now the slopes on both sides cover old coniferous forests. For a long time they were engaged in logging. Legal, and not very, coniferous trees in two clashes thick over the roads in the gorge on local panels. Judging by the presence of sawmills in Aulah, the locals are engaged in this fishery now, but not in large volumes.
Approximately 20 km from Aula Studet, the road leads to the origins of the Studel's River. This river is formed by the merger of two stormy mountain rivers - Mahara and Gondara. At the foot of the Mountain of Chirpi Bashi (3051 m) from Soviet times there are several tourist bases. Here many travelers stop for the night. In the glade, Cort-Malls, we stopped.
Former recreation center of low-voltage plant In recent years, the number of recreation centers is growing that there is a detrimental effect on the environment. It should be noted that on weekends the territories of the rest of the rest and roads on the gorges are becoming so crowded that the feeling of wildlife disappears. There is no possibility of communicating with nature, and wide glades in the gorges turn into parking for cars.
For a quick inspection of the main attractions of the Area with difficulty enough for two days. For unprepared tourists, hiking along the Mahar River Gorge (about 3 km in one direction) and Gondaray (about 4 km one way) are available. To go along the rivers to their top and slopes of the Chief Caucasus Range will not work. There is a border zone where the passage is carried out on special pass. About the approach to the forbidden zone is notified on the road.
River Gorge Mahar. The road along the River Mahar gorge begins in the area of \u200b\u200btourist bases and goes high on the left slope of the river. A distinctive feature of the Mahar Gorge is a huge LEP, which goes along the gorge into Abkhazia. Metal supports, three in a row, strongly spoil natural species. Without wires and supports in the photos can not do.
Pool with Narzan Approximately in a semi-kilometer from the tourist bases there is a source of Narzan. Its temperature is +8 gr., Water is saturated with iron, which settles on the stones and leaves a bright rusty sediment. Narzan is located on the right bank of the river, where the suspension bridge leads. The source itself is located a few meters from the river in the natural recess between the stones. From under the ground beats several powerful keys. In the same basin, other mineral springs come to the surface, which in the chemical composition are very different from the main one.
Believe the River Mahar Not far from the source in the Gyezhnaya tract there are "primitive" nasal baths. On the stone near the pool there is a container, in the past former drum washing machine. From her in the forest, a rotten tube is departed, from which fountainists flow in different places. The pipe leads to a metal container under which the fire is bred. For two hours, Narzan water is heated to a temperature that allows man in it. After heating, water falls into a wooden shed, where two enameled baths are installed. The whole procedure from a set of water until the end of the procedures takes no less than three hours. The distance of the path, the absence of any amenities, the antisanitation does not frighten the resorts. On the meadow opposite the source always dwells suffering healing.
Road to the gorge of Mahar Ullu-Tala's tract is one of the latest places available to the mahara gorge. These places are less visited by tourists, so there is probability of plenty of raspberries, even at the end of August.
Coniferous thickets Gondaray River Gorge is greater interest to photograph. Here is a large number of places for parking. As a result, the number of holidaymakers on weekends is not inferior to the popular mountain resorts of the Caucasus. Gondaray gorge has an interesting feature. In addition to the natural increase in height to the upwards, on the way you have to overcome several terraces. Probably they are formed by glaciers who polished the slopes of the mountains and the bottom of the tens of thousands of years ago. Today, the flows of gondaray, falling around the terraces cascad, is impressive of any traveler.
River Gondaray. The vegetation of the Gondara Gorge is similar to Mahar, but there are also its own characteristics. In the glades, a lamb will grow in wet places. Due to the similarity of flowers, it is often confused with crocus. However, a lack of lure has a lot of inflorescence and blooms in August.
Warmless in the Gondara River Gorge On the right bank of the River Gondaray in the tract of Zhalan-Kolayagy is a beautiful waterfall. Its flow breaks away from a height of more than two kilometers and vertically (about 50 m) is collapsed into a narrow valley, from where the water with cascades goes down in Gondara.
Waterfall in the Gondara River Gorge Prepared tourists are not limited to hikes along the rivers and to waterfalls. Mahara's gorge rises to lakes. One of them - Ull-Koyl, is considered one of the largest in the West Caucasus. Once there are walking routes from Mahara through Nabara Pass led to the Military Sukhuma Road. Today, many routes of hiking and climbing on the mountain peaks are closed.
Against the background of the River Gondaray in the tract of Jeanlands-Kolyagy In the area described by us, there is no mobile communications, no electricity and any communications. The radio, which we took on the trip, in the area of \u200b\u200bPolyana Cort-Malls found many interesting stations that were broadcast in Georgian or Abkhaz languages. I managed to catch Chinese radio stations, including in Russian. From entertainment, only observations of the starry sky and the moon through the pylon, which we also had in stock were left.
The slopes of gorge gondara The Mahara area will not leave anyone indifferent. Mountain air interspersed with the smell of coniferous forests, juicy meadows, blue rivers, huge waterfalls - all this will delight even the views of the tourist.
The Mountains of the North Caucasus is impossible to turn around everything, but we are trying, and practical every weekend in the summer we are chosen in nature.
A trip to the Mahar Gorge was planned with overnight stays to still capture a visit to the ancient Alanian temple, drink Narzan and take a walk through Mahar himself to the waterfalls (and the path there is not there).
The Mahar Gorge is located in the southwestern part of the Karachay-Circassian republic at an altitude of about 1600 meters above sea level, a few km from the Georgian border.
A trip to the Mahar Gorge began from the city of Essentuki. Essentuki is a small city resort of Caucasian mineral waters with a population of just over 108 thousand people. On the Borgskanskoye highway (village of the Brick Cities of Essentuki) immediately made a stop near the Petropavlovsky temple complex with the sculptural manner of Christ. The temple complex, the foundation of which was laid in 1999, was built in the image of the shrine of Jerusalem. On the territory of the complex, which is still not fully equipped, there are 3 chapels, baptizing, dining room, church shop, Sunday school and kids at the entrance.
The statue of Christ Risen "Jesus Christ is the Savior of the World", built in 2013 to donate the local resident of the businessman, Grek by nationality Pavel Aleksova, is currently the highest in Russia (height is 22 meters) and is located on the highest point of Essentukov. The statue itself is similar to the statue of Christ-Redeemer on Mount Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro. Entrance to the complex is free.
Walking and stayed by photos, moving down.
Village "Red East". KChr.
The next stop is in the Malokarachayevsky district of Karachay-Cherkess Republic in the Red East Aule, to gain local Narzan. Aul himself (more precisely in 2004, he received the status of the village), located on the banks of the Kuma River, is not particularly noteworthy. Only in February of this year, the new sports complex "Alashar" was opened here with an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 1000 m 2.
Shaoninian temple X century
Next stop - Alanian Shaonin Church of the X century - the oldest Christian temple in Russia, located on the left bank of the Kuban. The temple was consecrated in honor of St. George-victorious (naturally, this is the Alaska Temple).
In his early essay about I wrote a little about St. George Wastryji - the most revered by Alans.
Inside the temple, the decoration does not shine luxury, but there are icons and surviving frescoes on the walls. Lizards of different shapes and sizes will be blown on the stones.
The top view the panorama on the village of Costa Hetagurova, which is located in the vicinity, and mountain with a cross. The village, named after the famous Poet of Costa Levanovich Hetagurova, was founded in 1868 by visiting Ossetians and had previously been the name of St. George-Ossetian.
We pass the Karachai district - to the southeast of the industrial Karachai in the upper reaches of Kuban, there is a pretty major Aul Studellan with beautiful mosques. By the way, as later we defined, it was the last place where the mobile network caught. Here, the local bought a whole three-liter bank of fresh ajan.
17 km from Studkulana - a bit "Ushant" Wooden bridge, crossing which you get to a narrated source.
Mahar Gorge
Water drunk, and went to the recreation base already in the Mahar Gorge itself (on Turkic language the word "Mahar" means a warrior). On the threshold of our guest house we met such a beauty-toad).
Afterbid, went to inspect beauty in the surrounding area. By the way, already behind the poles of power - the border. You can ride horses.
The room in the guest house was 6 people (just our company); In the center - cast iron burzhuyka). Despite the fact that it was pretty cold, we were afraid of it were afraid. It was the most budget version of the night - 100 rubles per person. The local places - for lovers of "unity" with nature, so no electricity, all the amenities on the street.
If you do not reserve housing in advance, no roof over your head will not remain. In the district - there are a lot of similar hurriches and guest houses. Some tourists put tents, jested kebabs.
Early in the morning the next day - a walking walk to the Polyana to the River Studet and to the waterfalls in the Valley of the Mahar-Su river.
We were lucky, just was the azalea flowering season, which lasts less than a month (in a different azalia is called yellow rhodadendron). These bright yellow plants perfectly complemented the emerald greens, the blue sky and dirty white snow ... It is worth it in mind that Azalea is a very poisonous plant and a long to enjoy her sweet aroma is not worth it. Some of the wild violet irises.
We walked, then returned to the car, I used to say goodbye to our rest and went back to the way back.
Made a stop in a small village, bought a circle just made sweet home cheese, talked with a local black and white cat.
Trip to Mahar Gorge: What you need to take
Useful information: with you on a trip to the Mahar Gorge, you must have a passport, as near the border outpost. Since we did not go far, then on the checkpoint border guards we only rewrote passport details.
Interesting Facts:
- In 2016, a three-wheel silver coin was released in Russia with the image of the Shaoninsk temple.
- More than 80% of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic occupy the mountains.
- The meat of the Karachai black lamb, who received fame since the middle of the XIX century, is considered the most delicious in the Caucasus.
Though outside the window is winter, today is a hot summer post. And it's not even because summer, but because the degree of emotions, the voltage of human strength and technology was high as ever for all our travels to the mountains.
I do not like to write, so very brief.
So, we again in Karachay-Cherkessia. We drive Karachaevsk.By the way, the unreal beauty of the landscapes begin after Karachai and every kilometer becomes more beautiful with each kilometer.
In the upper reaches of the Kuban River, in the confluence of it with the river Studellan, there is a valley of the same name. There are populated hundreds of years ago the ancient Karachai Card-Jurut, Hurzuk and Stocked. It seems that life here is such as a hundred years ago. In the good sense of the word. Size, calm, not touched by civilization the life of a mountain aul. Rarely passing machines return to reality.
From the auls, the grain wide and very long dear leads from the valley in the mountain. This road will lead to a few and low-head tourist bases. In this place there is a branching on the Mahar Gorge with the Mahar River and the Gondaray Gorge with the Gondara River. Then already off-road.
We turned to Mahar. Ahead of the border shop and the bandwidth mode (we were disturbed in advance).
The plan was to get on our UAZ so high as we can, but preferably before the second border shop (we put a tick, but most likely we do not mince the car, ha ha). And then on his two above and above to the mountain lake (and here, unfortunately, it is not necessary to boast, hiking travelers out of us; I will find out the thunderstorm, and I had to descend back, although nothing before the goal).
So, steep climbs, large stones on the road, cliffs, seven brodes (with a full-flowered river necross-coming) and breathtaking views !!!
By the way about Brody. They pulled out some brave on the regular UAZ from the river. More engine he did not start his own. This is that you always need to evaluate your strength in advance and think where and why are you going.
Tie with writing. Look!
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And in this waterfall we bathed. 
Mountain cows graze freely on the slopes, chew a juicy environmentally friendly grass, drinking it with her purest river water. 
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And here we are walking. 
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Water from the glacier. 
What is not alpine meadows?! 
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It was here that we had forced to interrupt our way because of thunderstorms. And then - the descent of downgrades, the help of imagining UAZ, the long-awaited halt.
The next day, we return back the same route. We take out the aules Cart-Jurut, Hurzuk, Studet.
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