Eastern peninsula of southern Sakhalin. Sakhalin Island: area, population, climate, natural resources, industry, flora and fauna Sakhalin Island is separated from the mainland by a strait

Sakhalin is an elongated island located in the Pacific Ocean. In Russian Far East (between 45 ° 50 'and 54 ° 24' north latitude). Together with the Kuril Islands, it forms the Sakhalin region, the capital of which is Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

The island is 948 km long from north to south, with an average width of several tens of kilometers. The island covers 76,400 square kilometers, making it the 23rd largest spicy island in the world.

Sakhalin Island is within walking distance from the Asian continent, from which it is separated by the Tatar Strait; in the northern part, the distance to the continent narrows to about 7 km. In the south, it is separated from the Japanese Hokkaido by the La Perouse Strait. The northern point of the island is Cape Elizabeth, and Cape Crillon is the southernmost point.

The island is mostly mountainous, with the exception of the northern part, where the northern lowlands begin. The central and southern mountains are mainly elongated in the meridional direction, the largest of which is the Western chain. In the Eastern chain, Mount Lopatina (1609 m) is the highest point of the island. There are no major rivers on the island.

Climate

On the island of Sakhalin, the temperature is rather low for its latitude, this is due to the cold sea currents that bring cold to the shores of Sakhalin, the western shores of Sakhalin are most prone to cold.

The island has very cold winters, with January temperatures ranging between -18 ° C and -25 ° C in the north and between -6 ° C and -12 ° C in the south. Temperatures rise very slowly, due to the proximity of cold seas, so spring comes late, about three weeks later than on the mainland. The hottest month of the year is usually August, when the average temperature is between 11 ° C and 16 ° C in the north and between 16 ° C and 20 ° C in the south.

Population

At the beginning of the 20th century, about 32,000 Russians (of which 22,150 were deported) lived on the island along with several thousand natives. Currently, Sakhalin has 673,000 inhabitants, of which 83% are Russians. The 400,000 Japanese who lived in the southern part of the island were forced to take refuge in Japan after World War II. The capital Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, which has almost 200,000 inhabitants, is home to a small number of Koreans who were brought here during World War II to work in coal mines.

Popular science film about the nature of Fr. Sakhalin, ecology and life of indigenous peoples

Russia Region Sakhalin Region Population 520 K people

Sakhalin island

Sakhalin - an island off the east coast of Asia. Part of the Sakhalin Region, largest island as part of the Russian Federation. It is washed by the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk and the Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan. It is separated from mainland Asia by the Tatar Strait (in the narrowest part - the Nevelskoy Strait - is 7.3 km wide and freezes in winter); from the Japanese island of Hokkaido - by the La Perouse Strait.

The island got its name from the Manchu name of the Amur River - "Sakhalyan-ulla", which means "Black River" - this name, printed on the map, was mistakenly attributed to Sakhalin, and was printed as the name of the island in future maps. The Japanese call Sakhalin Karafuto, this name goes back to the Ainu "kamui- kara-puto-ya-mosir ", which means" the land of the god of the mouth ".

In 1805, a Russian ship under the command of I.F. Kruzenshtern explored most of the Sakhalin coast and concluded that Sakhalin was a peninsula. In 1808, Japanese expeditions led by Matsuda Denzuro and Mamiya Rinzo proved that Sakhalin was an island. Most European cartographers were skeptical about the Japanese data. For a long time, on different maps, Sakhalin was designated either an island or a peninsula. Only in 1849 did the expedition under the command of GI Nevelskoy put an end to this issue, passing by the military transport ship "Baikal" between Sakhalin and the mainland. This strait was later named after Nevelskoy.

Geography

The island stretches meridionally from Cape Crillon in the south to Cape Elizabeth in the north. The length is 948 km, the width is from 26 km (Poyasok Isthmus) to 160 km (at the latitude of the village of Lesogorskoye), the area is 76.4 thousand km².

Sakhalin Island Map 1885

Relief

The relief of the island is composed of medium-high mountains, low mountains and low-lying plains. The southern and central parts of the island are characterized by mountainous relief and consist of two meridionally oriented mountain systems - the West Sakhalin (up to 1327 m in height - Mount Onor) and East Sakhalin mountains (up to 1609 m in height - in the city of Lopatin), separated by the longitudinal Tym- Poronaiskaya lowland. The north of the island (with the exception of the Schmidt Peninsula) is a gentle, hilly plain.

The shores of the island are weakly indented; large bays - Aniva and Terpeniya (wide open to the south) are located in the southern and middle parts of the island, respectively. The coastline has two large bays and four peninsulas.

The following 11 regions are distinguished in the relief of Sakhalin:

  1. The Schmidt Peninsula (about 1.4 thousand km ²) is a mountainous peninsula in the extreme north of the island with steep, sometimes steep shores and two meridional ridges - Western and Eastern; the highest point is Tri Brata (623 m); connected to the North Sakhalin plain by the Okha isthmus, the width of which at its narrowest point is just over 6 km;
  2. The North Sakhalin Plain (about 28 thousand km ²) is a gently hilly area south of the Schmidt Peninsula with a widely ramified river network, weakly expressed watersheds and separate low mountain ranges, stretching from the Baikal Bay in the north to the confluence of the Nysh and Tyshaya rivers in the south point - Daakhuria (601 m); The northeastern coast of the island stands out as a sub-area, which is characterized by large lagoons (the largest are Piltun, Chayvo, Nyisky, Nabilsky, Lunsky bays), separated from the sea by narrow strips of alluvial spits, dunes, low sea terraces - in this sub-area and the main Sakhalin oil and gas fields are located on the adjacent shelf of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk;
  3. The West Sakhalin Mountains stretch almost 630 km from the latitude with. Hoe (51º19 "N) in the north to the Krillon Peninsula in the extreme south of the island; the average width of the mountains is 40-50 km, the largest (at the latitude of Cape Lamanon) is about 70 km; the axial part is formed by Kamyshovy (north of the Poyasok isthmus) and South Kamyshovy Ridges;
  4. The Tym-Poronayskaya lowland is located in the middle of the island and is a hilly-ridged lowland, stretching for about 250 km in the meridional direction - from the Terpeniya Bay in the south to the confluence of the Tym and Nysh rivers in the north; the maximum width (up to 90 km) reaches the mouth of the Poronai River, the minimum (6-8 km) - in the valley of the Tym River; in the north it passes into the Nabil lowland; covered with a thick cover of Cenozoic sediments, composed of sedimentary deposits of the Quaternary period. sandstones, pebbles; the highly swampy southern part of the lowland is called the Poronayskaya "tundra";
  5. The Susunai Lowland is located in the southern part of the island and stretches for about 100 km from Aniva Bay in the south to the Naiba River in the north; from the west, the lowland is bounded by the Western Sakhalin Mountains, from the east - by the Susunai Range and the Korsakov Plateau; in the southern part, the width of the lowland reaches 20 km, in the center - 6 km, in the north - 10 km; absolute heights in the north and south do not exceed 20 m above sea level, in the central part, on the watershed of the basins of the Susuya and Bolshoy Takay rivers, they reach 60 m; belongs to the type of internal lowlands and is a tectonic depression filled with a large layer of Quaternary deposits; within the limits of the Susunaiskaya lowland are the cities of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Aniva, Dolinsk and about half of the island's population lives;
  6. The East Sakhalin Mountains are represented in the north by the Lopatinsky mountainous cluster (the highest point is the city of Lopatina, 1609 m) with ridges radiating outward from it; two spurs in the opposite direction represent the Nabil ridge; in the south, the Nabilsky ridge passes into the Central ridge, in the north, sharply declining, into the North Sakhalin plain;
  7. the lowland of the Terpeniya Peninsula - the smallest of the regions, occupies a large part of the Terpeniya Peninsula to the east of the Terpeniya Bay;
  8. The Susunaysky ridge stretches from north to south for 70 km and has a width of 18-120 km; the highest points are Mount Pushkinskaya (1047 m) and Chekhov Peak (1045 m); it is composed of Paleozoic sediments, at the foot of the western macroslope of the ridge is the city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk;
  9. The Korsakov plateau is bounded in the west by the Susunai lowland, in the north by the Susunai ridge, in the east by the Muravyov lowland, in the south by the Aniva Bay, has a slightly wavy surface formed by a system of flat-topped ridge ridges elongated in the northeastern direction; the city of Korsakov is located on the southern tip of the plateau on the shore of Aniva Bay;
  10. Muravyov lowland is located between Aniva bays in the south and Mordvinov bays in the north, has a ridged relief with flat tops of ridges; there are many lakes within the lowland, incl. the so-called "Warm Lakes", where the people of South Sakhalin like to go on vacation;
  11. Tonino-Aniva ridge stretches from north to south, from Cape Svobodny to Cape Aniva, almost 90 km, the highest point is Mount Kruzenshtern (670 m); composed of Cretaceous and Jurassic deposits.

View of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk from the high coast near the lighthouse in the Tyoplye Lakes region

Climate

Sakhalin's climate is cool, moderately monsoon (average January temperature is from -6 ° C in the south to -24 ° C in the north, in August - from + 19 ° C to + 10 ° C, respectively), marine with long snowy winters and short cool summers.

The following factors influence the climate:

  1. The geographic location is between 46º and 54º N. determines the arrival of solar radiation from 410 kJ / year in the north to 450 kJ / year in the south.
  2. The position between the Eurasian continent and the Pacific Ocean determines the monsoon nature of the climate. The wet and cool, rather rainy Sakhalin summer is associated with it.
  3. Mountainous terrain affects the direction and speed of the wind. A decrease in wind speed in intermontane basins (in particular, in the relatively large Tym-Poronayskaya and Susunayskaya lowlands) contributes to cooling the air in winter and warming up in summer, it is here that the greatest temperature contrasts are observed; while the mountains protect the named lowlands, and also west Coast from the effects of the cold air of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk.
  4. In summer, the contrast between the western and eastern coasts of the island is enhanced by the correspondingly warm Tsushima Current of the Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan and the cold East Sakhalin Current of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk.
  5. The cold Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk affects the island's climate as a giant thermal accumulator, determining a long cold spring and a relatively warm autumn: snow in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk sometimes lasts until mid-May, and Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk flower beds can bloom until early November. If we compare Sakhalin with similar (in terms of climatic indicators) territories of European Russia, then the seasons on the island replace each other with a delay of about three weeks.

Air temperature and precipitation in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk in the XXI century (temperature: II.2001-IV.2009; precipitation: III.2005-IV.2009):

Parameters / Months I II III IV V VI Vii VIII IX X XI XII Year
Maximum air temperature, ºС 1,7 4,1 9,0 22,9 25,0 28,2 29,6 32,0 26,0 22,8 15,3 5,0 32,0
Average air temperature, ºС −11,6 −11,7 −4,6 1,8 7,4 12,3 15,5 17,3 13,4 6,6 −0,8 −9,0 3,2
Minimum air temperature, ºС −29,5 −30,5 −25,0 −14,5 −4,7 1,2 3,0 4,2 −2,1 −8,0 −16,5 −26,0 −30,5
Amount of precipitation, mm 49 66 62 54 71 38 37 104 88 96 77 79 792

The maximum temperature on Sakhalin (+ 39 ° C) was noted in July 1977 in the village. Pogranichnoe on the east coast (Nogliki district). The minimum temperature on Sakhalin (-50 ° C) was recorded in January 1980 in the village. Ado-Tymovo (Tymovsky district). The registered temperature minimum in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is -36 ° C (January 1961), the maximum is + 34.7 ° C (August 1999).

The highest average annual precipitation (990 mm) falls in the city of Aniva, the lowest (476 mm) - at the Kuegda meteorological station (Okha region). The average annual precipitation in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (according to long-term data) is 753 mm.

The earliest stable snow cover appears on Cape Elizaveta (Okhinsky District) and in the village of Ado-Tymovo (Tymovsky District) - on average on October 31, the latest - in Korsakov (on average on December 1). The average dates for the melting of the snow cover are from April 22 (Kholmsk) to May 28 (Cape Elizabeth). In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, stable snow cover appears on average on November 22 and disappears on April 29.

The most powerful typhoon in the last 100 years ("Phyllis") hit the island in August 1981. The maximum precipitation then fell on August 5-6, and only from August 4 to 7, 322 mm of precipitation fell in the south of Sakhalin (about three monthly norms) ...

Inland waters

The largest rivers of Sakhalin:

River Administrative district (s) Where does Length, km Pool area, km² Average annual runoff, km³
Burrow Tymovsky, Smirnykhovsky, Poronaysky gulf of Patience, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 350 7990 2,49
The darkness Tymovsky, Nogliki Nyisky Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 330 7850 1,68
Naiba Dolinsky gulf of Patience, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 119 1660 0,65
Lutoga Kholmsky, Anivsky aniva Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 130 1530 1,00
Shaft Nogliki chayvo Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 112 1440 0,73
Ainsky Tomarinsky lake Ainskoe 79 1330 ...
Nysh Nogliki tym river (left tributary) 116 1260 ...
Uglegorka (Esutu) Uglegorsky Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan (Tatar Strait) 102 1250 0,57
Langeri (Langres) Okhinsky Amur estuary of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 130 1190 ...
Big Okhinsky Sakhalin Bay of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 97 1160 ...
Rukutama (Vitnitsa) Poronaisky lake Nevskoe 120 1100 ...
Deer Poronaisky gulf of Patience, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 85 1080 ...
Lesogorka (Taimyr) Uglegorsky Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan (Tatar Strait) 72 1020 0,62
Nabil Nogliki Nabilsky Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 101 1010 ...
Malaya Tym Tymovsky tym river (left tributary) 66 917 ...
Leonidovka Poronaisky poronai river (right tributary) 95 850 0,39
Susuya Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Anivsky aniva Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 83 823 0,08

There are 16120 lakes on Sakhalin with a total area of \u200b\u200babout 1000 km². The areas of their greatest concentration are the north and southeast of the island. The two largest lakes of Sakhalin - Nevskoye with a mirror area of \u200b\u200b178 km² (Poronaysky region, near the mouth of the Poronai River) and Tunaicha (174 km²) (Korsakovsky region, in the north of the Muravyov lowland); both lakes belong to the lagoon type.

Natural resources

Sakhalin is characterized by a very high potential of natural resources. In addition to biological resources, the reserves of which Sakhalin is one of the first in Russia, there are very large hydrocarbon reserves on the island and its shelf. In terms of the volume of explored reserves of gas condensate, the Sakhalin Region ranks 4th in Russia, gas - 7th, coal - 12th and oil - 13th, while within the region, the reserves of these minerals are almost entirely concentrated on Sakhalin and its shelf. Other natural resources of the island include timber, gold, platinum.

Flora and fauna

Both the flora and fauna of the island are depleted both in comparison with the adjacent areas of the mainland, and in comparison with the island of Hokkaido located to the south.

Flora

As of the beginning of 2004, the flora of the island includes 1521 species of vascular plants belonging to 575 genera from 132 families, with 7 families and 101 genera represented only by alien species. The total number of alien species on the island is 288, or 18.9% of the total flora. According to the main taxonomic groups, vascular plants of the Sakhalin flora are distributed as follows (excluding invasive ones): vascular spore plants - 79 species (including lycopods - 14, horsetails - 8, ferns - 57), gymnosperms - 9 species, angiosperms - 1146 species ( including monocots - 383, dicots - 763). The leading families of vascular plants in the flora of Sakhalin are sedge ( Cyperaceae) (121 species excluding alien species - 122 species including alien species), Compositae ( Asteraceae) (120 - 175), cereals ( Poaceae) (108 - 152), rosaceous ( Rosaceae) (58 - 68), buttercup ( Ranunculaceae) (54 - 57), heather ( Ericaceae) (39 - 39), clove ( Caryophyllaceae) (38 - 54), buckwheat ( Polygonaceae) (37 - 57), orchid ( Orchidaceae) (35 - 35), cruciferous ( Brassicaceae) (33 - 53).

Fauna

Pink salmon goes to spawn in an unnamed river flowing into the Mordvinov Bay

"Red Book"

The island's fauna, flora and mycobiota include many rare protected species of animals, plants and fungi. 12 species of mammals registered on Sakhalin, 97 species of birds (including 50 nesting ones), seven species of fish, 20 species of invertebrates, 113 species of vascular plants, 13 species of bryophytes, seven species of algae, 14 species of fungi and 20 species of lichens (i.e. i.e. 136 species of animals, 133 species of plants and 34 species of mushrooms - 303 species in total) have the status of protected, i.e. are included in the "Red Book of the Sakhalin Region", while about a third of them are simultaneously included in the "Red Book of the Russian Federation".

Of the "federal Red Book" flowering plants, the flora of Sakhalin includes heart-shaped aralia ( Aralia cordata), calypso bulbous ( Calypso bulbosa), Glen's cardiocrinum ( Cardiocrinum glehnii), Japanese sedge ( Carex japonica) and lead-gray ( C. livida), lady's shoes are real ( Cypripedium calceolus) and large-flowered ( C. macranthum), two-leaved Gray ( Diphylleia grayi), capless cap ( Epipogium aphyllum), Japanese kandyk ( Erythronium japonicum), paunch high ( Gastrodia elata), xiphoid iris ( Iris ensata), ailantholus nut ( Juglans ailanthifolia), seven-bladed calopanax ( Kalopanax septemlobum), tiger lily ( Lilium lancifolium), Tolmachev's honeysuckle ( Lonicera tolmatchevii), long-legged winged seed ( Macropodium pterospermum), whole-leaved miyakia ( Miyakea integrifolia) (miyakia is the only endemic genus of vascular plants on Sakhalin), nest flower nest ( Neottianthe cucullata), peonies obovate ( Paeonia obovata) and mountain ( P. oreogeton), bluegrass rough ( Poa radula) and Viburnum Wright ( Viburnum wrightii), i.e. 23 kinds. In addition, there are eight more "federal Red Book" plants on the island: two types of gymnosperms - Sargent's juniper ( Juniperus sargentii) and pointed yew ( Taxus cuspidata), three species of ferns - Asian half-hair ( Isoёtes asiatica), Mikel's leperumor ( Leptorumohra miqueliana) and Wright's mecodium ( Mecodium wrightii), two species and one species of mosses - Japanese brioxify ( Bryoxiphium norvegicum var. japonicum), northern necker ( Neckera borealis), and the dumbest plagiotetium ( Plagiothecium obtusissimum).

Population

According to the results of the 2002 census, the population of the island was 527.1 thousand people, incl. 253.5 thousand men and 273.6 thousand women; about 85% of the population are Russians, the rest are Ukrainians, Koreans, Belarusians, Tatars, Chuvashs, Mordovians, several thousand people each, representatives of the indigenous peoples of the North - the Nivkhs and Oroks. 2002 to 2008 Sakhalin's population continued to decline slowly (by about 1% per year): mortality still prevails over births, and the attraction of labor from the mainland and from neighboring countries to Russia does not compensate for the departure of Sakhalin residents to the mainland. At the beginning of 2008, about 500 thousand people lived on the island.

The largest city of the island is the regional center Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (173.2 thousand people; 01.01.2007), other relatively large cities - Korsakov (35.1 thousand people), Kholmsk (32.3 thousand people), Okha (26.7 thousand people), Nevelsk (17.0 thousand people), Poronaysk (16.9 thousand people).

The population is distributed over the districts of the island as follows (results of the 2002 census, people):

District Whole population %% of the total Urban population Rural population
yuzhno-Sakhalinsk and subordinate settlements 182142 34,6 177272 4870
Alexandrovsk-Sakhalinsky 17509 3,3 14764 2746
Anivsky 15275 2,9 8098 7177
Dolinsky 28268 5,4 23532 4736
Korsakovsky 45347 8,6 39311 6036
Makarovsky 9802 1,9 7282 2520
Nevelsky 26873 5,1 25954 921
Nogliki 13594 2,6 11653 1941
Okhinsky 33533 6,4 30977 2556
Poronaisky 28859 5,5 27531 1508
Smirnykhovsky 15044 2,9 7551 7493
Tomarinsky 11669 2,2 9845 1824
Tymovsky 19109 3,6 8542 10567
Uglegorsky 30208 5,7 26406 3802
Kholmsky 49848 9,5 44874 4974
Sakhalin as a whole 527080 100 463410 63670

History

Archaeological finds indicate that people appeared on Sakhalin in the Paleolithic, about 20-25 thousand years ago, when the sea level dropped as a result of glaciation and land "bridges" were restored between Sakhalin and the mainland, as well as Sakhalin and Hokkaido. (At the same time, along another land "bridge" between Asia and America, located on the site of the modern Bering Strait, Homo sapiens moved to the American continent). In the Neolithic (2-6 thousand years ago) Sakhalin was inhabited by the ancestors of modern Paleo-Asian peoples - the Nivkhs (in the north of the island) and the Ainu (in the south).

The same ethnic groups constituted the main population of the island in the Middle Ages, with the Nivkhs migrating between Sakhalin and the lower Amur, and the Ainu between Sakhalin and Hokkaido. Their material culture was in many respects similar, and their livelihoods were provided by fishing, hunting and gathering. At the end of the Middle Ages (in the 16th-17th centuries), Tungus-speaking peoples appeared on Sakhalin - the Evenks (nomadic reindeer herders) and the Oroks (Uilta), who, under the influence of the Evenks, also began to engage in reindeer husbandry.

According to the Treaty of Simoda (1855) between Russia and Japan, Sakhalin was recognized as their joint indivisible possession. According to the St. Petersburg Treaty of 1875, Russia received Sakhalin Island into ownership, in return transferring to Japan all the northern Kuril Islands. After the defeat of the Russian Empire in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-05 and the signing of the Portsmouth Peace Treaty, Japan received South Sakhalin (part of Sakhalin Island south of the 50th parallel). As a result of the victory over Japan during the Second World War, the entire territory of Sakhalin Island and all the Kuril Islands were included in the Soviet Union (RSFSR). On the territory or part of the territory of about. Sakhalin currently has no claims either from Japan or any other country.

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk was founded by Russians in 1882 under the name Vladimirovka. After the victory of the USSR and its allies in World War II, together with the entire island, it passed to the USSR.

Sakhalin in the south bifurcates into two peninsulas, forming between themselves the Aniva Bay. The western peninsula is Krillon, and the eastern one is Tonino-Aninsky, so today we will try to get to it.

Exactly, just get close. There are no roads on the peninsula, not even directions. But there is a lot of interesting, beautiful and difficult to access. There is even a mountain ridge and a very interesting lighthouse for sweetness, but to see all this, you have to climb long and tediously, and we have a schedule.

So we will see only places more or less accessible to humans. Where do the buses go.

On the one hand, Variable, on the other, Lake Tunaicha. And between them is the Boyan Peninsula. Seriously, it may not be as fabulous as in the books, but the most real.

Boyans and Boyanki live on the peninsula. The former catch crabs and shrimp, while the latter sell them along the road.

To the left of the bridge is the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk, to the right is the Bayan Peninsula and the village of Okhotsk. And through this strait, thousands and thousands of fish go to Tunaichu to spawn. They say it is a very exciting sight.

There is a fishing base and a closed border post right there on the shore.

Once upon a time the Japanese also had a fishing base here, they built a mini-port with an artificial harbor. Such places are called port buckets.

The base is half-abandoned, but there is life here. There is a crane on the shore, a new boat is drying up, but there are no people. Maybe everyone is at sea, or maybe they dispersed in anticipation of an evening check of the networks.

The birds are also waiting for the fish.

Naked, I wanted to take a couple of them as a keepsake, but didn't pick it up

One of the many endemic species in the Sakhalin region is the steppe feather grass. It is interesting to observe it 20 centimeters from the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk on an island with a rather difficult relief.

Just a pebble.

Somewhere here is hidden one of the largest fish processing plants in Sakhalin, it is called “Tunaicha”.

The easiest way to find it is along the pier and a huge number of seagulls. They are waiting for the fish.

We did not get to the plant itself, the first time there was no fish, and secondly, we simply did not have time. But we looked at the fish hatchery located here. Sakhalin sturgeon amazed by their size, not like the Astrakhan ones.

Tunaichi waters. Fry on a small river first come here, and then go out to sea. Once the waters of Tunaychi were transparent, but somewhere they blocked something, something was built, something was drained and the balance was disturbed.

We drive back to the west and turn into the port city of Korsakov.

KorsAkov is named not after Rimsky-Korsakov, but after the Governor-General Mikhail Semenovich KorsAkov.

Most likely, this is the oldest human settlement on Sakhalin. From time immemorial, the Ainu lived here, later, in the 17th century, there was the first Japanese settlement of Kusun-Kotan. The Russians appeared here only in the middle of the 19th century and established a military outpost.

The popularity of the place can be explained very simply: it is the northernmost part of Aniva Bay with calm water, fish, fresh water and more or less flat terrain. And the climate here is quite mild, in winter about ten degrees below zero at night, a lot of snow.

Light anti-tank hedgehogs. The tank range is really close.

There is also the Intercession Monastery for men in the city. True, women work there for some reason. And earlier in this building sailors danced "bull's-eye", there was a club here.

And, of course, the most important thing in this city is the port, the largest on the island.

In addition to cargo ships from all over the world, there is a regular ferry from here to Japan, to the island of Sapporo.

In the travel reports, you were surprised by this photo. Yes, they still carry the halves, but now they are more for spare parts. And before, one whole car was cooked and sold. Something has changed in the legislation and now it is very difficult to register such a car, therefore they do not do such things. Although I see a mini-truck on the ferry, which only needs to weld half of the body, before changing the cardan. So anything is possible.

Continuing the story. The Japanese returned here in 1905 and used Otomari, as the city was called then, as the main port, and later made a naval base here.

In August 1945, after the successful capture of Kholmsk, an additional 2200 troops were deployed there to reinforce the existing forces. The detachment on several ships and torpedo boats left Maoki on 23 August. The main goal was to block the port in Otomari, and therefore to stop the evacuation of people and material values \u200b\u200bto Japan. The outcome of the war had already been decided.

On the crossing, the ships got into a strong storm and it was decided to take refuge in the port of Nevelsk, which was not yet occupied by Soviet troops. Seeing a large detachment of Soviet ships in the roadstead, the Japanese garrison surrendered without a fight.

On the morning of August 25, the group approached Otomari. The 56th Rifle Corps moving overland also pulled up to the city. 3400 people from the Japanese garrison of the city surrendered without a fight, and by lunchtime all Japanese military units on the island ceased to resist. The total number of captured Japanese soldiers was 18,320. Sakhalin was completely transferred to the Soviet Union, but the war was not over yet, the Kuriles were next.

Ports are like cities, which means there should be a cemetery nearby. A sad sight.

Once her name was Assol ...

Ilyich. From the nearest hill, he sees the whole city.

The shocked Internet photo of the beach at the world's largest gas-liquefying plant and the only one in Russia with the ability to load ships directly into the sea, without going close to the shore. The enterprise does not pollute coastal waters and does not have a negative impact on the environment, so you can swim and sunbathe nearby. At least that's what we were told.

We finish our trip in the village of Beregovoe. It is located on the shores of the Busse lagoon.

The village lives on fishing and catching all kinds of sea reptiles. Here I bought local shrimps, completely different from those sold in stores. Very tasty!

Russia Region Sakhalin Region Population 520 K people

Sakhalin island

Sakhalin - an island off the east coast of Asia. It is part of the Sakhalin Region, the largest island in the Russian Federation. It is washed by the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk and the Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan. It is separated from mainland Asia by the Tatar Strait (in the narrowest part, the Nevelskoy Strait, is 7.3 km wide and freezes in winter); from the Japanese island of Hokkaido - by the La Perouse Strait.

The island got its name from the Manchu name of the Amur River - "Sakhalyan-ulla", which means "Black River" - this name, printed on the map, was mistakenly attributed to Sakhalin, and was printed as the name of the island in future maps. The Japanese call Sakhalin Karafuto, this name goes back to the Ainu "kamui- kara-puto-ya-mosir ", which means" the land of the god of the mouth ".

In 1805, a Russian ship under the command of I.F. Kruzenshtern explored most of the Sakhalin coast and concluded that Sakhalin was a peninsula. In 1808, Japanese expeditions led by Matsuda Denzuro and Mamiya Rinzo proved that Sakhalin was an island. Most European cartographers were skeptical about the Japanese data. For a long time, on different maps, Sakhalin was designated either an island or a peninsula. Only in 1849 did the expedition under the command of GI Nevelskoy put an end to this issue, passing by the military transport ship "Baikal" between Sakhalin and the mainland. This strait was later named after Nevelskoy.

Geography

The island stretches meridionally from Cape Crillon in the south to Cape Elizabeth in the north. The length is 948 km, the width is from 26 km (Poyasok Isthmus) to 160 km (at the latitude of the village of Lesogorskoye), the area is 76.4 thousand km².

Sakhalin Island Map 1885

Relief

The relief of the island is composed of medium-high mountains, low mountains and low-lying plains. The southern and central parts of the island are characterized by mountainous relief and consist of two meridionally oriented mountain systems - the West Sakhalin (up to 1327 m in height - Mount Onor) and East Sakhalin mountains (up to 1609 m in height - in the city of Lopatin), separated by the longitudinal Tym- Poronaiskaya lowland. The north of the island (with the exception of the Schmidt Peninsula) is a gentle, hilly plain.

The shores of the island are weakly indented; large bays - Aniva and Terpeniya (wide open to the south) are located in the southern and middle parts of the island, respectively. The coastline has two large bays and four peninsulas.

The following 11 regions are distinguished in the relief of Sakhalin:

  1. The Schmidt Peninsula (about 1.4 thousand km ²) is a mountainous peninsula in the extreme north of the island with steep, sometimes steep shores and two meridional ridges - Western and Eastern; the highest point is Tri Brata (623 m); connected to the North Sakhalin plain by the Okha isthmus, the width of which at its narrowest point is just over 6 km;
  2. The North Sakhalin Plain (about 28 thousand km ²) is a gently hilly area south of the Schmidt Peninsula with a widely ramified river network, weakly expressed watersheds and separate low mountain ranges, stretching from the Baikal Bay in the north to the confluence of the Nysh and Tyshaya rivers in the south point - Daakhuria (601 m); The northeastern coast of the island stands out as a sub-area, which is characterized by large lagoons (the largest are Piltun, Chayvo, Nyisky, Nabilsky, Lunsky bays), separated from the sea by narrow strips of alluvial spits, dunes, low sea terraces - in this sub-area and the main Sakhalin oil and gas fields are located on the adjacent shelf of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk;
  3. The West Sakhalin Mountains stretch almost 630 km from the latitude with. Hoe (51º19 "N) in the north to the Krillon Peninsula in the extreme south of the island; the average width of the mountains is 40-50 km, the largest (at the latitude of Cape Lamanon) is about 70 km; the axial part is formed by Kamyshovy (north of the Poyasok isthmus) and South Kamyshovy Ridges;
  4. The Tym-Poronayskaya lowland is located in the middle of the island and is a hilly-ridged lowland, stretching for about 250 km in the meridional direction - from the Terpeniya Bay in the south to the confluence of the Tym and Nysh rivers in the north; the maximum width (up to 90 km) reaches the mouth of the Poronai River, the minimum (6-8 km) - in the valley of the Tym River; in the north it passes into the Nabil lowland; covered with a thick cover of Cenozoic sediments, composed of sedimentary deposits of the Quaternary period. sandstones, pebbles; the highly swampy southern part of the lowland is called the Poronayskaya "tundra";
  5. The Susunai Lowland is located in the southern part of the island and stretches for about 100 km from Aniva Bay in the south to the Naiba River in the north; from the west, the lowland is bounded by the Western Sakhalin Mountains, from the east - by the Susunai Range and the Korsakov Plateau; in the southern part, the width of the lowland reaches 20 km, in the center - 6 km, in the north - 10 km; absolute heights in the north and south do not exceed 20 m above sea level, in the central part, on the watershed of the basins of the Susuya and Bolshoy Takay rivers, they reach 60 m; belongs to the type of internal lowlands and is a tectonic depression filled with a large layer of Quaternary deposits; within the limits of the Susunaiskaya lowland are the cities of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Aniva, Dolinsk and about half of the island's population lives;
  6. The East Sakhalin Mountains are represented in the north by the Lopatinsky mountainous cluster (the highest point is the city of Lopatina, 1609 m) with ridges radiating outward from it; two spurs in the opposite direction represent the Nabil ridge; in the south, the Nabilsky ridge passes into the Central ridge, in the north, sharply declining, into the North Sakhalin plain;
  7. the lowland of the Terpeniya Peninsula - the smallest of the regions, occupies a large part of the Terpeniya Peninsula to the east of the Terpeniya Bay;
  8. The Susunaysky ridge stretches from north to south for 70 km and has a width of 18-120 km; the highest points are Mount Pushkinskaya (1047 m) and Chekhov Peak (1045 m); it is composed of Paleozoic sediments, at the foot of the western macroslope of the ridge is the city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk;
  9. The Korsakov plateau is bounded in the west by the Susunai lowland, in the north by the Susunai ridge, in the east by the Muravyov lowland, in the south by the Aniva Bay, has a slightly wavy surface formed by a system of flat-topped ridge ridges elongated in the northeastern direction; the city of Korsakov is located on the southern tip of the plateau on the shore of Aniva Bay;
  10. Muravyov lowland is located between Aniva bays in the south and Mordvinov bays in the north, has a ridged relief with flat tops of ridges; there are many lakes within the lowland, incl. the so-called "Warm Lakes", where the people of South Sakhalin like to go on vacation;
  11. Tonino-Aniva ridge stretches from north to south, from Cape Svobodny to Cape Aniva, almost 90 km, the highest point is Mount Kruzenshtern (670 m); composed of Cretaceous and Jurassic deposits.

View of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk from the high coast near the lighthouse in the Tyoplye Lakes region

Climate

Sakhalin's climate is cool, moderately monsoon (average January temperature is from -6 ° C in the south to -24 ° C in the north, in August - from + 19 ° C to + 10 ° C, respectively), marine with long snowy winters and short cool summers.

The following factors influence the climate:

  1. The geographic location is between 46º and 54º N. determines the arrival of solar radiation from 410 kJ / year in the north to 450 kJ / year in the south.
  2. The position between the Eurasian continent and the Pacific Ocean determines the monsoon nature of the climate. The wet and cool, rather rainy Sakhalin summer is associated with it.
  3. Mountainous terrain affects the direction and speed of the wind. A decrease in wind speed in intermontane basins (in particular, in the relatively large Tym-Poronayskaya and Susunayskaya lowlands) contributes to cooling the air in winter and warming up in summer, it is here that the greatest temperature contrasts are observed; while the mountains protect the named lowlands, as well as the western coast from the effects of the cold air of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk.
  4. In summer, the contrast between the western and eastern coasts of the island is enhanced by the correspondingly warm Tsushima Current of the Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan and the cold East Sakhalin Current of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk.
  5. The cold Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk affects the island's climate as a giant thermal accumulator, determining a long cold spring and a relatively warm autumn: snow in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk sometimes lasts until mid-May, and Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk flower beds can bloom until early November. If we compare Sakhalin with similar (in terms of climatic indicators) territories of European Russia, then the seasons on the island replace each other with a delay of about three weeks.

Air temperature and precipitation in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk in the XXI century (temperature: II.2001-IV.2009; precipitation: III.2005-IV.2009):

Parameters / Months I II III IV V VI Vii VIII IX X XI XII Year
Maximum air temperature, ºС 1,7 4,1 9,0 22,9 25,0 28,2 29,6 32,0 26,0 22,8 15,3 5,0 32,0
Average air temperature, ºС −11,6 −11,7 −4,6 1,8 7,4 12,3 15,5 17,3 13,4 6,6 −0,8 −9,0 3,2
Minimum air temperature, ºС −29,5 −30,5 −25,0 −14,5 −4,7 1,2 3,0 4,2 −2,1 −8,0 −16,5 −26,0 −30,5
Amount of precipitation, mm 49 66 62 54 71 38 37 104 88 96 77 79 792

The maximum temperature on Sakhalin (+ 39 ° C) was noted in July 1977 in the village. Pogranichnoe on the east coast (Nogliki district). The minimum temperature on Sakhalin (-50 ° C) was recorded in January 1980 in the village. Ado-Tymovo (Tymovsky district). The registered temperature minimum in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is -36 ° C (January 1961), the maximum is + 34.7 ° C (August 1999).

The highest average annual precipitation (990 mm) falls in the city of Aniva, the lowest (476 mm) - at the Kuegda meteorological station (Okha region). The average annual precipitation in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (according to long-term data) is 753 mm.

The earliest stable snow cover appears on Cape Elizaveta (Okhinsky District) and in the village of Ado-Tymovo (Tymovsky District) - on average on October 31, the latest - in Korsakov (on average on December 1). The average dates for the melting of the snow cover are from April 22 (Kholmsk) to May 28 (Cape Elizabeth). In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, stable snow cover appears on average on November 22 and disappears on April 29.

The most powerful typhoon in the last 100 years ("Phyllis") hit the island in August 1981. The maximum precipitation then fell on August 5-6, and only from August 4 to 7, 322 mm of precipitation fell in the south of Sakhalin (about three monthly norms) ...

Inland waters

The largest rivers of Sakhalin:

River Administrative district (s) Where does Length, km Pool area, km² Average annual runoff, km³
Burrow Tymovsky, Smirnykhovsky, Poronaysky gulf of Patience, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 350 7990 2,49
The darkness Tymovsky, Nogliki Nyisky Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 330 7850 1,68
Naiba Dolinsky gulf of Patience, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 119 1660 0,65
Lutoga Kholmsky, Anivsky aniva Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 130 1530 1,00
Shaft Nogliki chayvo Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 112 1440 0,73
Ainsky Tomarinsky lake Ainskoe 79 1330 ...
Nysh Nogliki tym river (left tributary) 116 1260 ...
Uglegorka (Esutu) Uglegorsky Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan (Tatar Strait) 102 1250 0,57
Langeri (Langres) Okhinsky Amur estuary of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 130 1190 ...
Big Okhinsky Sakhalin Bay of the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 97 1160 ...
Rukutama (Vitnitsa) Poronaisky lake Nevskoe 120 1100 ...
Deer Poronaisky gulf of Patience, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 85 1080 ...
Lesogorka (Taimyr) Uglegorsky Sea of \u200b\u200bJapan (Tatar Strait) 72 1020 0,62
Nabil Nogliki Nabilsky Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 101 1010 ...
Malaya Tym Tymovsky tym river (left tributary) 66 917 ...
Leonidovka Poronaisky poronai river (right tributary) 95 850 0,39
Susuya Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Anivsky aniva Bay, Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk 83 823 0,08

There are 16120 lakes on Sakhalin with a total area of \u200b\u200babout 1000 km². The areas of their greatest concentration are the north and southeast of the island. The two largest lakes of Sakhalin - Nevskoye with a mirror area of \u200b\u200b178 km² (Poronaysky region, near the mouth of the Poronai River) and Tunaicha (174 km²) (Korsakovsky region, in the north of the Muravyov lowland); both lakes belong to the lagoon type.

Natural resources

Sakhalin is characterized by a very high potential of natural resources. In addition to biological resources, the reserves of which Sakhalin is one of the first in Russia, there are very large hydrocarbon reserves on the island and its shelf. In terms of the volume of explored reserves of gas condensate, the Sakhalin Region ranks 4th in Russia, gas - 7th, coal - 12th and oil - 13th, while within the region, the reserves of these minerals are almost entirely concentrated on Sakhalin and its shelf. Other natural resources of the island include timber, gold, platinum.

Flora and fauna

Both the flora and fauna of the island are depleted both in comparison with the adjacent areas of the mainland, and in comparison with the island of Hokkaido located to the south.

Flora

As of the beginning of 2004, the flora of the island includes 1521 species of vascular plants belonging to 575 genera from 132 families, with 7 families and 101 genera represented only by alien species. The total number of alien species on the island is 288, or 18.9% of the total flora. According to the main taxonomic groups, vascular plants of the Sakhalin flora are distributed as follows (excluding invasive ones): vascular spore plants - 79 species (including lycopods - 14, horsetails - 8, ferns - 57), gymnosperms - 9 species, angiosperms - 1146 species ( including monocots - 383, dicots - 763). The leading families of vascular plants in the flora of Sakhalin are sedge ( Cyperaceae) (121 species excluding alien species - 122 species including alien species), Compositae ( Asteraceae) (120 - 175), cereals ( Poaceae) (108 - 152), rosaceous ( Rosaceae) (58 - 68), buttercup ( Ranunculaceae) (54 - 57), heather ( Ericaceae) (39 - 39), clove ( Caryophyllaceae) (38 - 54), buckwheat ( Polygonaceae) (37 - 57), orchid ( Orchidaceae) (35 - 35), cruciferous ( Brassicaceae) (33 - 53).

Fauna

Pink salmon goes to spawn in an unnamed river flowing into the Mordvinov Bay

"Red Book"

The island's fauna, flora and mycobiota include many rare protected species of animals, plants and fungi. 12 species of mammals registered on Sakhalin, 97 species of birds (including 50 nesting ones), seven species of fish, 20 species of invertebrates, 113 species of vascular plants, 13 species of bryophytes, seven species of algae, 14 species of fungi and 20 species of lichens (i.e. i.e. 136 species of animals, 133 species of plants and 34 species of mushrooms - 303 species in total) have the status of protected, i.e. are included in the "Red Book of the Sakhalin Region", while about a third of them are simultaneously included in the "Red Book of the Russian Federation".

Of the "federal Red Book" flowering plants, the flora of Sakhalin includes heart-shaped aralia ( Aralia cordata), calypso bulbous ( Calypso bulbosa), Glen's cardiocrinum ( Cardiocrinum glehnii), Japanese sedge ( Carex japonica) and lead-gray ( C. livida), lady's shoes are real ( Cypripedium calceolus) and large-flowered ( C. macranthum), two-leaved Gray ( Diphylleia grayi), capless cap ( Epipogium aphyllum), Japanese kandyk ( Erythronium japonicum), paunch high ( Gastrodia elata), xiphoid iris ( Iris ensata), ailantholus nut ( Juglans ailanthifolia), seven-bladed calopanax ( Kalopanax septemlobum), tiger lily ( Lilium lancifolium), Tolmachev's honeysuckle ( Lonicera tolmatchevii), long-legged winged seed ( Macropodium pterospermum), whole-leaved miyakia ( Miyakea integrifolia) (miyakia is the only endemic genus of vascular plants on Sakhalin), nest flower nest ( Neottianthe cucullata), peonies obovate ( Paeonia obovata) and mountain ( P. oreogeton), bluegrass rough ( Poa radula) and Viburnum Wright ( Viburnum wrightii), i.e. 23 kinds. In addition, there are eight more "federal Red Book" plants on the island: two types of gymnosperms - Sargent's juniper ( Juniperus sargentii) and pointed yew ( Taxus cuspidata), three species of ferns - Asian half-hair ( Isoёtes asiatica), Mikel's leperumor ( Leptorumohra miqueliana) and Wright's mecodium ( Mecodium wrightii), two species and one species of mosses - Japanese brioxify ( Bryoxiphium norvegicum var. japonicum), northern necker ( Neckera borealis), and the dumbest plagiotetium ( Plagiothecium obtusissimum).

Population

According to the results of the 2002 census, the population of the island was 527.1 thousand people, incl. 253.5 thousand men and 273.6 thousand women; about 85% of the population are Russians, the rest are Ukrainians, Koreans, Belarusians, Tatars, Chuvashs, Mordovians, several thousand people each, representatives of the indigenous peoples of the North - the Nivkhs and Oroks. 2002 to 2008 Sakhalin's population continued to decline slowly (by about 1% per year): mortality still prevails over births, and the attraction of labor from the mainland and from neighboring countries to Russia does not compensate for the departure of Sakhalin residents to the mainland. At the beginning of 2008, about 500 thousand people lived on the island.

The largest city of the island is the regional center Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (173.2 thousand people; 01.01.2007), other relatively large cities - Korsakov (35.1 thousand people), Kholmsk (32.3 thousand people), Okha (26.7 thousand people), Nevelsk (17.0 thousand people), Poronaysk (16.9 thousand people).

The population is distributed over the districts of the island as follows (results of the 2002 census, people):

District Whole population %% of the total Urban population Rural population
yuzhno-Sakhalinsk and subordinate settlements 182142 34,6 177272 4870
Alexandrovsk-Sakhalinsky 17509 3,3 14764 2746
Anivsky 15275 2,9 8098 7177
Dolinsky 28268 5,4 23532 4736
Korsakovsky 45347 8,6 39311 6036
Makarovsky 9802 1,9 7282 2520
Nevelsky 26873 5,1 25954 921
Nogliki 13594 2,6 11653 1941
Okhinsky 33533 6,4 30977 2556
Poronaisky 28859 5,5 27531 1508
Smirnykhovsky 15044 2,9 7551 7493
Tomarinsky 11669 2,2 9845 1824
Tymovsky 19109 3,6 8542 10567
Uglegorsky 30208 5,7 26406 3802
Kholmsky 49848 9,5 44874 4974
Sakhalin as a whole 527080 100 463410 63670

History

Archaeological finds indicate that people appeared on Sakhalin in the Paleolithic, about 20-25 thousand years ago, when the sea level dropped as a result of glaciation and land "bridges" were restored between Sakhalin and the mainland, as well as Sakhalin and Hokkaido. (At the same time, along another land "bridge" between Asia and America, located on the site of the modern Bering Strait, Homo sapiens moved to the American continent). In the Neolithic (2-6 thousand years ago) Sakhalin was inhabited by the ancestors of modern Paleo-Asian peoples - the Nivkhs (in the north of the island) and the Ainu (in the south).

The same ethnic groups constituted the main population of the island in the Middle Ages, with the Nivkhs migrating between Sakhalin and the lower Amur, and the Ainu between Sakhalin and Hokkaido. Their material culture was in many respects similar, and their livelihoods were provided by fishing, hunting and gathering. At the end of the Middle Ages (in the 16th-17th centuries), Tungus-speaking peoples appeared on Sakhalin - the Evenks (nomadic reindeer herders) and the Oroks (Uilta), who, under the influence of the Evenks, also began to engage in reindeer husbandry.

According to the Treaty of Simoda (1855) between Russia and Japan, Sakhalin was recognized as their joint indivisible possession. According to the St. Petersburg Treaty of 1875, Russia received Sakhalin Island into ownership, in return transferring to Japan all the northern Kuril Islands. After the defeat of the Russian Empire in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-05 and the signing of the Portsmouth Peace Treaty, Japan received South Sakhalin (part of Sakhalin Island south of the 50th parallel). As a result of the victory over Japan during the Second World War, the entire territory of Sakhalin Island and all the Kuril Islands were included in the Soviet Union (RSFSR). On the territory or part of the territory of about. Sakhalin currently has no claims either from Japan or any other country.

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk was founded by Russians in 1882 under the name Vladimirovka. After the victory of the USSR and its allies in World War II, together with the entire island, it passed to the USSR.