Aircraft modeling for beginners drawings. Radio-controlled aircraft from the ceiling

This article is intended for those who first decided to do aircraft modeling. It will help solve the most difficult questions facing newbies: "Where to start?" and "What will this result in?"

The article concerns only simple models of airplanes and gliders, with which beginners start their way in modeling.

Few terms

Even if you are not interested in the process of making a model, its structure, and the only thing you need is to fly, fly and fly again, some knowledge about the design of your aircraft is still necessary. They will not load your head too much, but they will bring a lot of clarity to the question. In the end, you will not, after banging your model, tell your colleagues at the airfield that “that piece of wood and that rail” broke, and “that thing” was cracked. And present the process of possible repairs more meaningfully.

All models are arranged quite similarly, so let's consider some generalized radio-controlled aircraft model.

Fuselage... It is the basis of the entire model. The bearing planes, tail unit, landing gear are attached to it. As a rule, the engine is installed on it. The control equipment is placed inside - this is a receiver, batteries, steering cars.

Wing... Actually what creates the lift. It is the wing that allows the model to stay in the air. It consists of left and right consoles... Consoles can be installed at a slight angle to one another, in this case, their tips will be located slightly higher than the root parts. When viewed from the front, the wing will be slightly V-shaped. The wing angle V is used to increase the roll stability of the model.

Ailerons - steering surfaces located on the trailing edge of the wing and deflected up and down in antiphase. With their help, the aircraft is controlled by roll (tilts left and right).

The left and right wing halves are called consoles.

Tail unit... In the classic version, it consists of a vertical part, which is called keel, and horizontal - it is called stabilizer... The tail unit ensures the stability of the aircraft - so that it flies straight and evenly, and does not tumble in the sky, randomly changing direction.

The trailing edge of the keel is rudder, on the trailing edge of the stabilizer - elevator... The names of the steering surfaces speak for themselves.

Chassis... Allows the model to take off and land on the ground. The presence of the chassis is optional, in this case the model starts from the hands, and the landing is "on the belly".

Engine... That which propels the model, allowing it to climb and maintain the required speed.

Tank... It contains the fuel required by the engine.

Receiver... It receives the signal of the transmitter, amplifies it, processes it and distributes it to the steering cars.

Steering cars... They convert the signal from the output of the receiver into the movements of the rudders of the model through the connected traction.

The receiver and the cars are powered by the onboard battery - as a rule, it is a battery of four "finger" cells.

Where does the choice of model begin?

People who have never flown an RC model before often choose their first model based solely on external features, buying the aircraft they like most. And such a desire is quite justified - one wants to have the most beautiful model ... And as a result, the first purchase sometimes turns out to be a difficult-to-fly aerobatic aircraft or a good copy of an aircraft from the Second World War, which may be even more difficult to control. Is this decision correct?

Unlike models of ships and cars, flying models do not allow you to learn "on the sly", choosing a lower speed first. They have a minimum speed, upon reaching which they are poorly controlled and just fall to the ground. On a car or ship model, if you are confused with the controls, you can simply turn off the gas and brake. It won't work like that with an airplane. If you have already taken off, then you need to make a landing, otherwise there will be "firewood". Therefore, the first model should teach you how to do without "firewood". And only aerobatics and other aesthetics with true pleasure from the flight - this is later.

Let's better remember what and why we are choosing a model. First of all, we need to learn how to fly - take off, keep the model in the air, land it safely. Therefore, the model must first of all be well suited for teaching and training, and last of all, it should satisfy your aesthetic needs. What properties should a tutorial model have?

• The aircraft must be stable, that is, it must stay well in the air without the active participation of the pilot, at least for some time. Stable aircraft “forgive” many of the piloting mistakes inherent in beginners.
• The aircraft must be maintainable. The bitter truth of life is that your first (and the second too) model will sooner or later turn out to be more or less broken, or even broken into dust - for the simple reason that you are learning to fly. Therefore, the tutorial model should allow for simple and quick repair of damage and be made of wood or foam, but not molded from fiberglass.
• And, of course, the model should have a fair amount of durability, but not to the detriment of flight performance. It should be able to withstand hard landings, but also fly well.

The requirements, of course, are contradictory, but there are training models that successfully combine all the necessary properties.

So if you really want to learn how to fly, be prepared to give up a little the look of the plane and choose the one that works best for training as the first model.

If you try to classify all flying models in general, the list will turn out to be very long, and the close relationship of classes is quite confusing. Classification is generally difficult and thankless. And is it needed now? Remembering that we are choosing a model for training and learning the basics of piloting, we can limit ourselves to only a few of the most common options.

What can a beginner choose for learning piloting?

• Airplane with an internal combustion engine (ICE)
• Electroplane
• Glider or motor glider

We will tell you about each type of model in more detail.

Aircraft with internal combustion engine

An ICE trainer is generally referred to as a "trainer" or, for short, a trainer. This is an airplane with an upper wing, which has a pronounced angle V, which gives the model the required stability. A photograph of such an aircraft is given at the beginning of the article.

The trainer is good first of all because it allows not only to learn how to take off, land and stay in the sky, but also to perform the simplest aerobatics - drums and loops. Another advantage of the coach is the ability to fly even in strong enough winds. And of course, it most of all looks like a "real" plane.

However, this type of training model also has several disadvantages. First of all, you will need an instructor - a person who will teach you how to start and adjust the engine of your aircraft and will lead you from start to finish the entire flight training process. It is almost impossible to independently learn to fly a trainer without serious damage to it. So in the absence of an instructor, consider flying other types of models.

A trainer with a span of 1400… 1600 mm, with an engine with a working volume of 6.5… 7 cc and a mass of 2000-2500 grams, seems to be optimal for training. It will not be very afraid of the wind, and due to its large scope it will be clearly visible even at high altitudes. However, an airplane with a span of 1200 ... 1300 mm with an engine of 3.5 ... 4 cc will turn out to be no worse. And in order for the small plane to be clearly visible in the sky, the bottom of the wing can be painted with bright fluorescent enamel.

The trainer can be made both of wood (balsa or linden and pine), and of corrugated plastic - a material that looks like corrugated packaging cardboard (such planes are also called "cardboard"). Both models have their pros and cons. A wooden aircraft has a lighter weight and significantly higher aerodynamic characteristics as compared to a corrugated plastic one. On the other hand, it is almost impossible to crash an airplane made of "corrugation" - it only crumples and bends upon impacts, from which the wooden airplane half falls apart. And from the third ... from the third it turns out that "kartonich" is rarely capable of anything more than initial training in flight and aerobatics. A wooden coach in experienced hands can work wonders. As a rule, a more powerful engine is installed on the "carton" than on a balsa trainer of the same size.

However, there are exceptions to every rule, and there are very well-designed "cardboard boxes", which are not inferior to models made of balsa in terms of flight characteristics.

Electroplanes

The main advantage of the electric jet is the absence of the need for engine tuning and ease of starting. And here lies the main disadvantage of the electric flight - the lack of traction. As a rule, models with an electric motor are much worse in dynamics than models with an internal combustion engine. Another disadvantage is some high cost of the electronic filling of this model.

However, the electric flight is easier to control than a trainer with an internal combustion engine, and less playful. It allows you to learn to fly without an instructor, alone - if for one reason or another you have not found an instructor.

Again, a high-wing plane with a fair V wing angle, a span of just under 1000 mm, seems to be optimal for training in electric flight. The motor unit is a class 400 motor with a direct propeller drive (without gearbox) or a class 280 motor with a gearbox.

Gliders and motor gliders

The slow-flying glider is the ideal training desk for those who do not have an instructor nearby and whose financial situation is poor. Let this be my personal opinion, but a person who has learned to fly a glider and who immediately learns to take care of every meter of altitude and think over every maneuver, moving on to a motor model in the future, will fly much more consciously and accurately.

The main advantage of the glider model is the speed and simplicity of preparation for the launch. There is no need to start and adjust the engine, take care of fuel. Due to the lack of a motor, the glider is the cheapest training model possible.

But in the absence of a motor, there is also a big disadvantage. To launch the glider (and it launches like a kite), you need a buddy who will not mind running all day long - or a rubber catapult that you will stretch yourself.

However, this disadvantage can be easily eliminated by installing a small internal combustion engine or an electric motor on the airframe, while maintaining all the main advantages of the airframe - the slowness of the flight and some delay in reactions to the movements of the transmitter sticks.

The reduced maneuverability of the glider due to its large span can be attributed not to minuses, but to pluses. A less maneuverable model will forgive the pilot for gross mistakes and will allow you to learn to fly without an instructor. Skeptics, however, who claim that it is impossible to perform loops and barrels on a glider, can be convinced of the opposite at any competition on radio-controlled glider models.

A glider with a span of 1700-2200 mm, weighing about 1 kg is best suited for training. The glider will be of the same size, but heavier - up to one and a half kilograms, depending on the weight of the motor unit.

Build yourself or buy?

Okay, we have chosen the model. And where to get it? Buy? Do it? It's up to you to decide.

There are three options:

• Buy a ready-made aircraft or ARF-set (Almost Ready to Fly / Almost Ready to Fly)
• Buy a set of blanks for assembly (Kit)
• Do everything yourself, from scratch.

The option of receiving a model as a gift, inheritance, for debts or purchases for a case of beer in the nearest mug are not considered due to their obviousness.

Do it yourself - cheap, almost free if desired, but longer. Depending on your skills, time availability and materials used, it will take from a month to six months. If you are going to build yourself - check out this material.

But in any case, try to immediately take care of where and from whom you will consult, because with zero initial experience, you can make many mistakes that will make it difficult or even impossible to fly your winged miracle.

Buy a set? If the prospect of making your own model scares you to the point of losing consciousness, and there is not enough money for a finished one, try to consider an intermediate option - a set of blanks (Kit). It is cheaper than a ready-made model, and you can do it yourself. The set is easy to assemble - as a rule, everything is clearly shown in the instructions. You will assemble the set quickly - someone has already thought about everything for you, your task is to follow the instructions.

Well, if you don't have the skills, desire or time to build, we buy a model in a store or from one of the modelers.

How to figure out what you want, build or buy?

Here you can start from the meaning that your hobby is filled with. If you just want to fly, buy a ready-made model. If you want to build and fly - then buy a set or make a model yourself according to drawings found on the Internet or magazines. The approximate timeframes for preparing models for flight are as follows:

• ARF: a week or two of quiet work in the evenings
• Kit: from a week to a month
• Self-made model: in the absence of modeling skills from 1 to 6 months, depending on your talents

Immediately I want to warn amateur designers: if you have never made radio-controlled flying models before, in no case make any changes to the design proposed in the magazine !!! Do as instructed. Even if something seems irrational to you. When a novice pilot brings to the field his first (in his opinion) improved design from a magazine, it happens that the surrounding modelers' hair stands on end. And some even cry with admiration, although initially the model described in the article had excellent flight data ... Naturally, there is no talk of flying on a model that is overweight and weakened in the power nodes.

One way or another, if your goal is to learn how to fly in the shortest possible time, it makes sense to buy the first model so as not to get bogged down for six months with its production. Even if you really want to do it yourself.

Those who want to make planes themselves in the future can be advised to assemble the first model from a set. During the assembly process, skills will be developed and knowledge about typical design solutions for certain units of the model will be acquired, and the time spent on construction will be much less than the time spent on creating a homemade aircraft.

What you need to start

Well, let's assume that now you know enough to consciously choose your first model. Or, at least, formulate a question for knowledgeable people. Such a question, for which you will not be laughed at or sent to read books, but will be answered with understanding. So let's go ahead and try to figure out what else is needed to run the model.

Radio control equipment

This is a transmitter with sticks with which you will control the aircraft, as well as on-board electronics (receiver and steering cars). The choice of hardware is not an easy question, and a topic for separate articles that you can find on this site. The only thing that can be said for sure is that the equipment must necessarily be with the type of modulation FM, not AM, with four proportional channels, no less. The training model does not require more than four channels, usually two or three, but it just so happened that equipment with the number of channels less than four is unlikely to be useful to you in the future, and having bought a two or three channel, you will buy a new one for your second model equipment.

Model aircraft simulator

An absolutely irreplaceable thing in the household. On it, you can perfectly work out the initial management skills, without the risk of breaking your first model and without spending time and money on repairing it.

Launch equipment

In addition to the model itself and the hardware, you will need additional accessories for launches. For example, a rail for a glider, or a starter and fuel for an internal combustion engine. In addition, some common tools and materials will be useful in the field for quick on-site repairs. All of this is covered in the next chapter for different types of models. It's not just about what you will take with you to the field, but also about what will stay at home. In the end, you need a more or less complete picture of what to stock up for flights and what to equip a workshop with.

Equipment for starting models with internal combustion engines

Fuel and refueling devices... Typically, the fuel used is 80% methyl alcohol and 20% castor oil. It should be stored in a hermetically sealed container, preferably in a canister.

To refuel the model, you will need a special pump, manual or electric. In its absence, you can do with a plastic bottle with an appropriate tip.

Power for starter and spark plug... A 12-volt battery is used to power the starter: either a 7.2 A / h sealed lead-acid battery from a computer's uninterruptible power supply unit, or the one installed in your car.

In order to power the engine plug at start-up, you need a start panel that connects to the same battery, or a separate 1.2 V battery, which has a sufficiently large capacity - several A / h. The panel is preferable, since it allows you to smoothly change the voltage on the candle, and in this case you do not need to carry a separate battery with you to light the candle.

Let's not forget the collet clamp for connecting wires from the panel to the candle.

Starter... It will allow you not to bother manually starting the engine. The thing, although not necessary, is very useful. At least in the field, it will save you a lot of time starting the engine.

Tools, spare parts, materials for repair... Comments are superfluous. You take with you not only the model and starting equipment, but also the tools and materials for assembly, tuning and possible repair of the model.

Flight box... This is where you will put all of the above. You can buy a box, you can make it yourself. The main thing is that everything should fit in it - the transmitter, and the fuel, and the instrument. Therefore, pay special attention to the purchase or manufacture of this container - it is still inconvenient to carry a model in one hand, a box in the second, and a transmitter in the third, which for some reason does not fit into the box ... Even if you just have something you need to drag the model and everything you need from the entrance to the car, do not neglect the drawer - it will allow you to keep tools and equipment in order and do not forget anything when leaving the field.

The photographs above show two different flight boxes - with so-called "horns" - a fuselage support for easy assembly of the model - and without them. The fuel cans and launch panels are clearly visible.

Equipment for starting models with electric motors

The set of tools remains unchanged, the flight box will become smaller. "Electric trains" do not require fuel, a starter - and require other additions required for takeoff.

Travel batteries... In addition to the batteries that power the transmitter and receiver, you will also need batteries to power the travel motor, which can deliver high current. It's best to have two batteries - while one is flying, the other is charging.

Fast charger... This is a charger that allows you to charge running batteries from the vehicle's on-board network directly in the field, within 30-60 minutes.

The photo below shows running batteries and a fast charger.

Another necessary addition is travel adjuster for the electric motor model. Despite the fact that this device is installed on board the model, it is mentioned in this section - because purchasing it will also require certain costs.

Glider launch equipment

Once again, the tools and flight box will make up our luggage. By and large, for the first flights, when your friend launches the glider from his hand, and you steer them, nothing else is needed. But when you have mastered flying straight from your hand - and this usually happens in one or two days - you will want to throw the glider higher. Here's what you need to do this:

Leer... Fishing line with a diameter of 1 ... 2 mm. With its help, the glider is launched like a kite, and having reached its maximum height, it unhooks and flies independently, controlled by the pilot. To accelerate the movement of the glider when tightening, it is often used block... In this case, one end of the handrail is fastened in the ground with a steel pin, the other end is hooked to a hook on the glider, and the one who pulls the glider holds the block in his hands.

In the absence of an assistant, it is quite possible to use a catapult - this is the same handrail tied to a rubber harness fixed in the ground. In this case, it is enough to stretch the rubber, attach the glider to the rail - and you can fly.

Things to think about before it's too late

Aircraft modeling is a fascinating thing, and draws you into it, like a whirlpool. And then it is very difficult to quit, and most importantly, I don’t want to. So think again, are you ready to dive into this pool?

How strong is your desire to do aircraft modeling for a long time?

If you're just curious to give it a try, don't splurge yet and run to the store. Find a crowd of modelers, make an appointment on the field. When you come to them, honestly and directly explain that it would be very interesting for you to try flying, but you are not sure if you will like it enough to start modeling yourself. See how that flies. Ask to try to steer the model - an experienced pilot can always let you steer a little, unless he has a super expensive plane. Modelers, although they look ferocious people, rarely refuse help if this help is tactfully asked.

Do not rush to buy if you are not at all sure that you really want to fly !!! Ripen at least to the state of "the desire to fly seems to be strong, but not 100% sure" and then already think about purchasing your own hectic flight system. Well, if it doesn’t "insert" you even after a sortie to the airfield, then you should drop it. Otherwise, having bought an airplane and a bunch of equipment, you will then sell it all for a long time and painfully at a loss. Take a look at the forum - there are probably a couple of announcements about such a sale hanging there ...

Do you have a friend who knows how to fly a flying model who will agree to teach you how to fly - that is, an instructor?

Let's say you have a strong and steady desire to fly. Do you have an instructor who will teach you how to fly? If there is, that's great. If not, then the choice of the tutorial model will be slightly narrowed. Your training model will be a glider or a motor-glider, and the glider may be simpler - there is no motor that needs to be regulated (or to charge the batteries for it). It is quite possible to use an electrolyte. On such models it is much easier and cheaper to learn to fly alone, after training in the simulator - by trial and error. On an airplane, of course, you can also learn to fly on your own, but you will spend an order of magnitude more time on this - both for training and for repairs. But on the plane you also have to figure out the engine - how to start it, tune it ...

However, this is rather the author's opinion. Many instructors believe that training on an airplane is faster - it does not need to be dragged out like a glider, which allows you to make more flights per unit of time, and a powerful motor allows you to "stretch" the model in a critical situation.

Can you imagine the amount of financial investments that an aircraft modeling hobby will require?

Ultimately, all reasoning about the first model comes down to a single denominator - money, money, and again money. Alas, one cannot do without them. And here a severe blow of disappointment falls primarily on the youngest modelers - those who are not yet employed and to whom their parents cannot give at least fifty dollars for used equipment ... but without a minimum amount of money for equipment you can only count on flying free-flying models that you will build yourself.

But aircraft modeling requires much more than $ 50 for half-killed equipment. Of course, not all at once, but depending on the class of models that you will engage in in the future, your hobby will require certain financial investments.

Conclusion

Hopefully, after reading this article, you will no longer go to the forum with the question "Help !!! I am a full kettle, but I want a radio-controlled model !! Which is the best? !! And what do you need to start? !!!". Now you already know what's what, and most likely, after studying what is on the market, post a modest announcement on the forum: "I will buy a trainer, with equipment and an engine, as well as a starter and a lighter for a candle." Or, having bought equipment, look for blueprints for a simple glider, already knowing approximately what it is intended for, build it yourself, and, having learned to fly, you will become the first modeller in your hometown ...

Do not forget that the choice of your model - only yours, and no one will ever give you 100% correct advice. Don't torture other modelers by asking them to make your choice for you. After all, now, knowing the basic criteria for choosing the first model, you yourself will find what suits you best.

Since childhood, many boys are passionate about technology, various cars, trains, airplanes. They are of great interest in all the elements that are directly related to these subjects. To captivate your child with creativity, invite him to jointly make toys that will look like an airplane.

Children's crafts in the form of an airplane will be a great way to spend time with your child. You can have fun in your free time. In addition, such crafts can be done together with children at children's parties.

A photo of crafts on the topic of an airplane demonstrates all the variety of models that you can do yourself.

Airplane made of wood

When creating an airplane from wood, the question arises, what can you make an airplane? To create an airplane craft, you must have a clothespin, wood sticks, acrylic paints, brushes, Moment glue, scissors and sandpaper.

Algorithm for creating a toy plane

Consider step by step instructionshow to make an airplane. This will allow you to create a craft without too many problems if you follow the instructions for creating a toy airplane exactly.

We take blue paint and paint the wings of the future aircraft. Then we take the red paint and paint the clothespins, which will later become the basis of the airplane. To create the hind wings, you need to cut the stick in two. Use scissors to round off the trimmed edge.

The tail of the plane consists of a piece of a stick. Cut a piece of 10 millimeters from the stick. For this we use a clerical knife. The edge should not be flat.

Using sandpaper, we grind the surface of the wooden sticks. We paint the resulting details and glue them together.

Plane made of cardboard

To create this version of the aircraft, you will need blue cardboard, matchboxes, scissors, Moment glue, and a cork.

We take a stencil and cut out all the details of the plane, from which we will then create it.

We take a box of matches and glue it to the base of the plane. It is necessary to cut one small strip from the cardboard, which we then glue to the base of the aircraft. Blanks of the same size are then glued over the matchbox on the other side.

To create a tail, you need to cut a strip measuring 50 millimeters by 10 millimeters. The edges are rounded on both sides. The resulting strip must be divided into three equal parts. Each strip should be 15 millimeters long. To do this, you need to use a clerical knife.

Stars must be glued to the airplane. They will become a real decoration of the model.

We take the cork from the wine. Cut a small circle using a clerical knife. Next, apply some glue to the surface of the cut piece of cork and glue it to the plane. Then you need to create a propeller. Its creation is described as a wooden airplane.

We take a needle with which it is necessary to pierce the cork. Then we attach all the parts to the base of the plane. We create small flowers from several sheets of colored paper. To do this, you need to take a decorative hole punch. These leaflets must be glued to the entire surface of the airplane.

Note!

Airplane from a bottle

To create an airplane from a bottle, you need to take the bottle itself directly. Using a knife, you need to make several slots, into which you will need to insert cardboard in the future. This cardboard should look like the wings and tail of an airplane.

We cut out a part from thick cardboard that looks like a propeller. In the center of this shape, you need to cut a place for the plastic cork. It is necessary to install a propeller over the neck of the plastic bottle, and then screw on the plastic stopper. This will secure the propeller to the plastic bottle.

After that, you can invite your child to apply paint to a plastic bottle in whatever color he wants. The child will be happy to paint the base of the plane and its wings.

Thus, airplane crafts will be ready. The presented options for creating children's airplanes allow you to quickly make a craft.

You can give an airplane craft master class. This will make the children's party more interesting and useful at the same time.

Note!

You can make your own choice of materials for DIY crafts. If your child is fond of wooden crafts, then it is best to make an airplane out of wood, but if your child is fond of cardboard crafts, then it is recommended to create a flower plane.

Photo craft plane

Note!

It is considered one of the easiest to fly, therefore it is suitable for a novice pilot-modeller and can be used as a trainer, that is, as the first model for flight training.

The following materials are required to make an aircraft model:
Smooth ceiling tiles or laminate underlay, 3-5 mm thick.
Ceiling glue is Titan or any of its analogs, a 5-10 ml disposable syringe.
Scotch tape of different colors, paper glue.
A piece of thin but rigid wire, for example, a piano string, wire for a semiautomatic welding machine, diameter D \u003d 0.8-1mm.
Smooth base for working with a knife, such as a plexiglass sheet, laminate board.

Required spare parts:
Receiver and transmitter for 4 or more commands.
Electric motor for an airplane for 1100 rpm or more.
Servos for 5-9 grams 4 pcs.
LiPo battery 12 volt 1000-2000 mAh. 1 PC.
Propeller size 8040-9060.

Required tools:
Modeler's knife or clerical knife with spare blades.
Metal ruler 50-100 cm.
Sandpaper, sanding block (stone).

Item 1. Preparation for work.
First you need to find it on the Internet, or take it here ( (downloads: 4684)) drawings of the aircraft model itself, then print them on a printer in A4 sheet format.

Spread the resulting printouts on a flat surface in accordance with the serial numbers, as a result, you should get a connected image of the finished elements of the aircraft.

Now you need to glue the necessary sheets together. For the correct gluing of the sheets, so as not to violate the dimensions and geometry of the future aircraft, it is necessary to cut off the extra edges on each sheet of the drawing, for the convenience of determining the cut lines, special border crosses are drawn in the corners, it remains only to decide which side we will trim, we connect two corner crosses with a line and get cutting line.

After removing the excess sides with scissors, we connect the resulting fragments of the drawing together, evaluate how well everything fits together, after which you can apply glue to the uncut edges of the sheet and glue it together.

The joints must match very precisely.

Thus, we glue all the fragmented elements of the drawing. The result should be seven sheets glued and two single sheets (for drawing Cessna182).

Point 2. Cutting blanks.

Now you can lay out the "sandwich" from the background and the drawing. For the convenience of holding the sheet on the substrate, you just need to glue it a little with glue with a pencil. During further manipulations, it will not have time to dry completely and therefore the paper (stencil) from the finished part will be easily removed without being damaged at all for reuse.

Then you can act in different ways, as you like best.

If the part is simple, with a large number of straight lines, then it is enough to mark all the corners of the part with punctures of the needle, then remove the stencil paper and apply a ruler from the puncture point to another point, make a cut with the tip of a knife, then shift the ruler to the next points and so on until you complete complete cutting of the part.

If the part is of a complex shape, with rounded sides, then you can immediately cut it using a stencil and completely cut out the workpiece.

This way all the details of the aircraft model are cut out. If you are making your first model, then you need to lay out or mark each of the parts in order to easily determine its purpose from the drawing.

Item 3. Gluing of the aircraft body, assembly.
You can start by gluing double partitions, that is, consisting of several identical parts glued together for additional strength.
Such as this fuselage baffle.

We will use Titanium glue, as the most accessible for most novice modelers, and for applying glue it is convenient to use a syringe without a needle, fill it with glue and use it as a convenient dispenser.

The cut parts are not always straight enough and can be easily corrected with sandpaper.

Now we take one side of the fuselage, place it on the table with the correct side so that the laminated side is outside the plane. Cut out all the docking and mounting holes in the sidewall, then place the other half and copy the same holes onto it.

We take the front partition of the compartment, apply glue to the glued side of the workpiece and press it to its place of installation, slightly move the workpiece in different directions so that the glue spreads well and again separate the workpieces to dry the glue for 10-30 seconds. (to speed up, you can wave, blow), then connect the parts again and press with force for 5-10 seconds.

Now you can let go and deal with other workpieces, periodically checking how the first workpiece is glued and, if necessary, press it down again.

In the process of building an aircraft, it is important to keep track of such things as the size of your battery in time (it may be larger than planned in the drawing) and accordingly independently adjust the dimensions of the compartment if necessary, constantly check the perpendicularity of the parts to be glued, do this with a square or a ruler.

This is how all the partitions of the front, middle and rear of the fuselage are assembled in stages.

When all the baffles are in place, the second fuselage sidewall can be glued.

We finish the muzzle and the mount for the motor mount.

Install the upper part of the fuselage with a slot for the tail (rudder).

We glue the tail blanks, immediately lay the reinforcement made of reinforced tape for attaching the rudder and toothpicks for rigidity.

We hold the gluing together with a board and clamps for even gluing.

As a result, everything is even and the toothpicks do not stand out.

We glue the tail into place.

We always check and maintain a strict vertical.

We glue the parts of the elevator, we also put a bamboo skewer and scotch tape inside for attaching the steering wheel, perforate the scotch with holes for better gluing of the ceiling halves.

We also squeeze with a board and clamps until the glue is completely dry, for about a day.
We stitch the edges at an angle of 45 degrees so that when the planes are tilted, they do not rest against each other, it is convenient to do this with a simple stone or sandpaper.

We make a wing, mark lines on the wing for gluing stiffeners, neurons, spars.

A wooden axle (spar) is usually made from a 50 cm wooden ruler, if you have a circular saw, you can simply dissolve the board into shingles and then cut it to the desired size.

First, we glue the spar rail.

In the middle, we reinforce the joint with two more small slats.

Then we glue the foam plastic neurons.

To glue the upper plane of the wing, the ceiling or backing material must be prepared, rolled on a piece of pipe to set a preliminary bend of the desired shape, after which you can apply glue to all contacting elements and make the final gluing. You can use any available weight, clothespins, scotch tape to fix the wing during the glue setting.

Small dents in the field of clothespins can be sanded with sandpaper.

Close the cavities in the central part of the wing, glue the inserts.

After the glue has completely dried, we mark the ailerons, additionally we orient ourselves by looking at the lumen, so as not to get on the partition.

Cut with a cutter on both sides, take out the finished aileron.

We glue all the open cavities with strips of tiles.

The finished ailerons can be glued immediately using reinforced tape or left for later, until the main covering of the entire model with tape.

The front of the wing can also be reinforced with reinforced tape.

Now you can cover the entire model with tape, this is not only for beauty, but more to give strength, now the model will be able to withstand small falls and bumps.

We iron the tape with a warm iron, this procedure will finally bake it to the foam, but this is not necessary for the first model.

To install the elevator wing, you need to make a cut in the body and slide the wing into place.

Installing the servos on the wing. To do this, apply and outline them with a marker, then cut out seat... We stretch the wires and fasten the servos in place using double-sided tape. On the contrary, hogs are mounted on the ailerons and connected to the servos with rigid wire.