Practical information about Yangon. To Myanmar on your own

A solo trip to Myanmar allowed me to see the sights of Mandalay, visit the palace of the last king of Burma, climb Mandalay Hill, find out where to eat inexpensively in Mandalay; to find out more, read the trip report to Mandalay

Remembering how boarding a bus went in Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, I assumed that Myanmar would be remembered for something similar. However, the reality pleased me: the departure procedure went like clockwork. Of course, the Yangon bus station is still a small place, with characteristic bustle, dust and lack of normal lighting, but large companies provide their customers with the maximum possible comfort. In order not to wander around the territory, you should notify the taxi driver in advance which carrier you need, and he will then pick you up from the end of the bus station from where the required flights from Yangon to Mandalay, Bagan and other parts of the country depart. My driver knew exactly which gate the JJ Expres office was located near and, having paid him, a minute later I was already standing in front of the office entrance.

I didn’t have a ticket at that time, just a seat reservation, and no matter how hard I tried to push away the memories of the bummer with the night bus from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, that negative was still firmly seated somewhere inside my body. It’s good that my worries were quickly dispelled by the prompt reception staff, who were present in the number of as many as 5 units. They immediately issued me the promised ticket, although they were somewhat embarrassed when I asked at the same time to issue a ticket for a flight from Bagan to Yangon. They had to call somewhere and coordinate something, but in the end the matter was resolved positively in a few minutes. It was also pleasant that the Burmese women willingly accepted payment in dollars - this is somewhat unusual in Myanmar. On the other hand, online, JJ Expres quotes dollar rates; Let's say "First Class" from Yangon to Mandalay costs $18, to get to Inle Lake first class you will have to pay $19, and so on. In short, I paid, as I wanted, in foreign currency, but oh well.

It's time to take a look around what the JJ office and the entire Yangon bus station are like. The waiting room is quite small, there are about fifty chairs and a couple of tables. Customers who check in for a flight are served free tea and coffee - this is the first time I have seen this in Southeast Asian countries. There is a toilet, but it is dirty and shabby. Much the same can be said about the entire bus station. Signs of carrier offices are lit with neon, and there are potholes and debris underfoot. But there are plenty of shops and cafes where you can refresh yourself before the road or buy various foodstuffs. In a word, during the walk I decided that the Yangon bus station would still be nicer than many departure stations in the region - the Manila garage station alone is worth it, not to mention the sheer disgrace in Siem Reap, where there is nowhere for those waiting to leave to sit.

Having returned to where the JJ Expres office is located, I decided to recharge my smartphone before a long journey and, since all the available outlets were occupied, I sat down next to the tee through which the office kettle was powered. Not even five minutes had passed before one of the local workers began to persistently send me away. At first I didn’t understand why he was waving his hands so diligently and began to explain that I wanted to charge the battery. Then the driver’s assistant pulled out from the depths of his memory a supply of available English words and somehow explained that the transport provided had sockets. It was a pleasant surprise! But, by the way, I took “First Class” - why wait for anything else!

In addition to the sockets, the interior of the bus pleased me with comfortable seats that allow me to stretch out to my full height, and individual screens with headphones and a control panel. I immediately put my smartphone on charge, turned on the movie and began to calmly wait for departure.

I would like to note that before boarding the bus, even if it is already being loaded, you should mark your ticket at the registration desk, because the driver will not let you into the cabin without the required stamp. And you must never lose the luggage tags issued upon boarding: they are very scrupulously checked at the final destination of the trip. And what is important to do is to put on sneakers, pull on jeans and stock up on something like a windbreaker: night buses in the upper price segment are equipped with such air conditioners that they cool down the cabin in no time, and even the blankets issued to passengers cannot save you from the breeze they create .

In general, the conditions for traveling at night in Myanmar turned out to be much better than I expected. Firstly, I managed to take a nap while reclining. Secondly, there was only one stop, and remembering what the trip from Agra to Jaipur looked like with constant boarding and disembarking of passengers, I thanked Providence that such disgusting did not happen again. Thirdly, I liked the selection of movies, as well as the individual viewing control. Fourthly, soon after leaving, everyone was given a set of a small pizza, a cake and a bottle of water, which was very useful to me in the morning. And finally, fifthly, the highway did not leave much to be desired - the car drove smoothly, without jerking or braking, unlike the Kenyan bus that I drove from Kampala to Nairobi through continuous holes and potholes.

Everything was going well until the night bus from Yangon arrived in Mandalay. It was not possible to download maps of Myanmar on a smartphone due to the lack of them, and I was unable to find my way, half asleep, where we ended up - it was only clear that this was happening in the city, and not at the bus station. When two-thirds of the passengers spilled out into the pre-dawn darkness at six o’clock in the morning, I also tried to get out, but then I decided to get to the Mandalay bus station first, and then figure out where to go next. If I knew what was what, everything would have been easier...

Actually, it turned out quite well: the bus, having unloaded those who wanted it, turned around and drove along the long street. As it turned out later, it was Street 78, smoothly turning south into Highway No. 1. The bus station is based on it, which, according to the good old tradition, the Burmese took to God knows where. And it would be nice if the departure point was just in the middle of nowhere, but there is no transport to it anywhere. It seems like you can get from the bus station to the center of Mandalay by buses passing along the highway, but it’s not known where they will take you in the end.

Actually, once at the bus station, I wasn’t too fussed, since I figured that since it was 6 am, the receptionist was unlikely to be happy about the unexpected guest. By the way, I shouldn’t have thought so, because the locals are very calm about early check-in at hotels in Myanmar.

Having passed the time until about seven by watching a movie, I saw that it was already dawn outside the window and got ready to go. The Burmese taxi drivers, who were on guard for their prey at the exit from the bus station, were quickly satisfied with the refusal, and, having gotten rid of them, about two hundred meters later I came across a motorcyclist who agreed to drop me off at the location of the Manadalay train station, from which it was just a stone’s throw from my hotel.

The road was not easy: while I was enjoying the morning breeze, my driver had difficulty maintaining the balance of the scooter - considering that the passenger behind him with a backpack weighed twice as much as himself, this was a non-trivial task. By God, the Burmese stopped his iron horse with visible relief when he decided that we had arrived. But he rejoiced in vain: for the next two minutes we argued about the finishing point, because I needed a “railway station”, and for some reason my counterpart heard “Great Wall Hotel”. How he managed this trick, I don’t know...

In the end, we agreed that he would still take me to the station, but I would pay three thousand kyats instead of the agreed upon two. Sighing, the Burmese climbed back into the saddle...

The closer to the center we drove, the more my face stretched out: the buildings around seemed vaguely familiar to me. So what do you think? When we pulled into the Mandalay station, it was the same place where our bus had unloaded two hours earlier. I thought that people landed on the outskirts, well, by St. Petersburg standards, near, say, the Baltic station or the Parnas metro station. The real state of affairs did not even occur to me, and it was difficult to see anything in the darkness. Okay, at least the road from the bus station to the center of Mandalay was inexpensive...

5 minutes later, having jumped over the railway tracks along the viaduct, I entered the lobby of the Royal Pear l hotel, where I did not stay long: despite the early hour, I was immediately given the keys, and to a room a class higher than the one I had booked.

After throwing off my things, I got into the shower and began to persuade myself to go see the sights of Mandalay. If the flight to Southeast Asia had worked out as planned, I would have immediately gone outside, but since over the previous four days I had only slept normally for one night, fatigue simply knocked me off my feet. Having mentioned the scoundrels from “China Southern” with another good portion of curses, I collapsed into bed...

The sleep definitely did me good, but when I got up, evening was approaching and it was too late to go sightseeing in Mandalay. Still, it was necessary to manage time wisely, and, therefore, focus on practical issues. I decided to first buy a ticket from Mandalay to Bagan, and then settle down in the city center.

To my great regret, JJ Express did not work on the desired route, and for the next move it was necessary to find the OK Express office, nesting, as I found out on the Internet, not far from my hotel, on 25th street, between 86 streets and 87. This is normal practice, almost all addresses in Manadalay are designated this way, and, I must say, there are no problems with orientation.

There are no problems with tickets either: when I bought the coveted ticket, two-thirds of the seats on the evening minibus I needed were still free. The deal went off without a hitch, and having paid 9,000 kyats, I also received a firm promise of a free transfer from the hotel to the departure point of the minibus.

I note that a good way to get to Bagan from Mandalay is by boats and steamers plying along the Irrawaddy River. When preparing for the trip, I seriously considered the possibility of making a multi-hour journey by water. Two important circumstances stopped me: the boats depart very early, at 6-7 in the morning, and I am not made for early rises, and, most importantly, judging by the reviews, the cruise on the Irrawaddy is interesting for the first half hour, after which the monotonous landscapes begin to make passengers sleepy. Well, the price also played a role: a bus from Mandalay to Bagan costs 8-10 dollars, there are simply no boats cheaper than 35 dollars.

Having finished my visit to the agency, I hurried east to go to the main attraction of Mandalay and photograph the Royal Palace in the sunset rays.

The huge complex, each side of which stretches for 2 kilometers, is surrounded by a wide moat and impressive walls - all together it looks extremely picturesque. It is interesting that benches are placed in places along the outer embankment of the moat, allowing you to admire the scenery in comfortable conditions. True, the path of the water is uneven, and you often have to look not at the palace, but at your feet, so as not to rattle to the ground.

The Mandalay Royal Palace can be visited, but since it is now occupied by a military unit, the only entrance provided for visitors is located on the eastern side of the complex. In my presence, a couple of tourists who intended to enter from the south were escorted back to the bridge by the sentries. Well, I planned a visit for the next morning, and with a light heart I turned into the development, heading towards the skyscrapers looming in the distance.

I must say that Mandalay, which seemed to me to be something like Luang Prabang, turned out to be more like Phnom Penh, if it was cleaned up and updated. For the most part, the buildings looked presentable; here and there there were even luxurious mansions behind strong fences. Unlike Mexico, there were no armed patrols roaming the streets, even though Myanmar is still ruled by a military dictatorship. Private shops carried on a brisk trade, cafes offered food, in general, peaceful life went on all around.

I was especially pleasantly surprised by the Diamond Plaza shopping complex, located on 78th Street, between streets 33 and 34. Standing surrounded by buildings of modern architecture, it itself is decorated in a modern way, and would look quite worthy both on the Kurfürstendamm and somewhere in Defense. However, Southeast Asia is Southeast Asia, and next to the giant there is a flea market a la Cherkizovsky market, and instead of parking cars along the facade there are rows of scooters.

Shopping in Mandalay was not part of my plans, the same cannot be said about food, and I was very pleased to find inside the Plaza not only boutiques, but also an Ocean grocery supermarket, tailored according to Western patterns. It turned out that you could get into his arms from 78th Street by walking down the steps.

Finding myself among the counters and shelves, the first thing I noticed was the low prices for local alcohol: a bottle of Dagon beer, popular in Myanmar, cost just over 1,000 kyats. But the prices for juices turned out to be high, and, for example, for grape nectar you had to pay more than 3,000 kyats, and my favorite mango went for 1,600 kyats per liter. The price tags for fruit also seemed strange to me. Tangerines went for about 1200 kyats per kilo, as did bananas, but grapes cost 740 kyats per 100, exactly 100 grams! That's 10 dollars a kilo!

Having combed the Ocean Supercenter, I came to the conclusion that there was no need to look for places where you can eat inexpensively in Mandalay: fried fish and meat, salads, and side dishes were sold here by weight. I was still worried about my stomach, which had not yet gotten used to Asian food, and therefore did not dare to eat in street cafes, so the supermarket’s offer made me very happy. As it turned out later, I was in vain to rejoice, since the fish I bought was thoroughly soaked in some kind of spicy sauce, and I had to suffer from stomach pain in the evening. And at that time I thought that I had gotten a great deal, having bought a good amount of fish called Hilsa for 980 kyats per gram, a 500-gram bowl of rice for 400 kyats and a box of mixed fruit for dessert. Even taking into account the juice, I had to pay less than $5 at the checkout...

Returning to the hotel after dark, on the way I discovered a place where you can buy fake watches in the center of Mandalay for only 2-3 dollars. It turned out that traders of this stuff go fishing after 5-6 pm, occupying the western ramps of viaducts thrown across the tracks near the railway station. Shopping practically on the road looks scary, but the prices for watches and jewelry are not just low, they are the lowest...

The fish, as I already said, did not suit me for future use, although in fairness it should be called tasty. However, the next morning I felt fresh and had a great breakfast on the top floor of the hotel, where there is a restaurant with panoramic views. Then, having collected my things, I checked out my room, left my backpack in the care of the receptionist and went to explore the sights of Mandalay.

My first goal was, of course, the Royal Palace, with which I had made a casual acquaintance the day before. Now I had to visit the complex, and I hurried to its eastern side, where tourists are allowed to enter. There are also military guards there, but on the side of the gate there is a booth with signs in English. The polite aunts who occupied it took 10 thousand kyats from me, exactly the same as the cost of a comprehensive ticket that allows you to visit all the main attractions of Mandalay. It is valid for 7 days from the date of sale, you need to present it at the entrance to the next facility - the attendants carefully check the date and put stamps on the back of the receipt indicating entry.

Having completed the formalities, I walked through the gate, behind which lively ladies were waiting for me, renting bicycles. The idea, in general, is not without meaning, since the entrance to the complex and the two are separated by a distance of about a kilometer, which they have to overcome in the heat without the possibility of shelter. The asking price of 1000 kyat also seemed reasonable, but I preferred to walk - after all, these are not the temples of Bagan, which are really better to ride around on a bike. The aunts, by the way, were not too upset by my refusal, having looked behind my back for three backpacker-looking individuals at once, stomping around near the cash register. I did not disappoint the Burmese women with the message that it was unlikely that those who came would be honored to rent a bicycle, given the English words they uttered when they saw the cost of the tickets - the prospect of paying $8 for all the most valuable attractions of Mandalay seemed like robbery to them...

Arriving directly at the palace, I was impressed by its size and decoration. Then, however, the guide to Mandalay dotted the i's: the construction of the ensemble was carried out in the period from 1857 to 1859, that is, it only looks ancient. In addition, during the Second World War, British bombs left the complex in ruins, and during the reconstruction, which began in 1989, the Burmese made extensive use of modern materials such as iron and concrete. So the Royal Palace of Manadalay disappointed me twice. Therefore, I recommend not studying its ins and outs in detail and just enjoying the unusual architecture - then everything will be fine. You should also forget that the ghosts of people roam the territory, whom, according to rumors, the Burmese king ordered to be walled up alive during the construction of the palace. According to local beliefs, the ghosts of innocent victims wander around the place of execution and for some reason guard the killers - that’s how strange the legends of Myanmar are...

So, the ensemble looks very beautiful, stunning with a palette of all red and gold. In some places it seems that you are in Turkish Topkapi, and in some places the wooden structures are reminiscent of domestic Kizhi. In one of the rooms you can see gloomy figures in national costumes: the last monarch of Burma, Thibaw Min, who sold the country to the British, is sitting next to his wife.

Where you should definitely stick your nose is at the observation tower, rising to the left of the main entrance. From its observation deck, all the buildings of the palace are clearly visible, and in the distance the complex of the second most important attraction of Mandalay, the famous hill lined with temples, is clearly visible.

Personally, I postponed climbing Mandalay Hill until the afternoon because I was going to first explore the scattering of pagodas located to the southeast of it. My map clearly highlighted as many as four objects, two pagodas and two monasteries. It was to them that I headed after parting with the palace.

Frankly, the walk did not give me much pleasure: while the palace complex and the city center looked civilized, the piece of land between 15th and 18th streets looked more like a village, and a Cambodian one at that. Dirt, garbage and laundry hung in front of the tin huts were complemented by cows grazing right there on the lawn. The contrast turned out to be even more striking a little later, when I wandered to the majestic Atumashi monastery - after the general disgrace, it was surprising to see the cleanliness of the surrounding territory.

The Burmese built the five-tiered monastery of Buddhist monks in 1857 by order of King Mindon. It probably greatly impressed his contemporaries, because it differed in its unusual architecture from other sacred buildings: straight, level terraces took the place of the usual intricate structures. But the huge stone dragons guarding the entrance have not disappeared. There is also a security guard at the entrance checking tickets. I can’t imagine why someone wrote on the Internet that, they say, all the sights of Mandalay except the palace can be visited for free - nothing like that, the objects of the archaeological zone are under vigilant care.

To visit a Buddhist temple, I had to take off my shoes and walk barefoot. I walked through the palace complex with my shoes on; Yangon's Shwedagon offered a shoe storage room; here I had to leave my sandals at my own risk. Frankly speaking, there is nothing special inside the monastery complex; I was only pleased with the coolness of the main hall. In addition, the guide to Mandalay added poison here too, saying that the original Atumashi monastery completely burned down at the end of the 19th century and what appears before the eyes of tourists now is nothing more than a late reconstruction.

I liked the next cultural heritage site much more, the Schwenandau Monastery. This is indeed an ancient building, previously located on the territory of the Royal Palace. The monastery is designed in the traditional style of Burmese architecture, made entirely of teak wood, its walls are richly decorated with carved figures from Buddhist mythology. When I saw him, I was so stunned that I somehow got confused and didn’t notice where the entrance was. I look, it means that people are walking behind the fence, admiring the beauty of the building, but it’s not clear how to get inside. The American sitting near the bars, in my opinion, was very surprised when I asked him which way the gate was. It turned out that I didn’t reach them about five meters; the checkpoint booth is literally right next to 62nd Street.

Having received another stamp on my already well-worn Mandalay ticket, I walked around the monastery twice, admiring the skillful work of the craftsmen who created it. For a closer inspection, naturally, it was necessary to take off my shoes, and, frankly, my hesitation lasted for a long time: I don’t mind showing respect for other people’s beliefs, but all around, after all, Southeast Asia with its own specifics means picking up some kind of nasty thing naked with your soles you can do it in no time. Nevertheless, the craving for beauty won, and I spent the next half hour studying in detail the patterns, mythological scenes and figures.

Having finally left the Shwenandaw Monastery, I walked a couple of blocks north to the next attraction in Mandalay, the Kuthodaw Pagoda. At the center of its huge complex is a golden stupa 57 meters high. But it was not she who struck me (Shwedagon is much larger), but the place for prayer in front of a statuette of Buddha near the southern entrance: behind the face of the saint there was a screen that every now and then displayed colored spirals; the composition looked like a slot machine. Another feature of the ensemble was the carpet paths laid across the main courtyard. I still don’t understand why they were put there, either to prevent people from getting their feet dirty, or to protect their soles from being burned by hot tiles in the sun. The third nuance of the Kutodo Pagoda is the trade in stone masks, figurines and other junk right next to the central pagoda. Since I didn’t find any other places where you can buy souvenirs in Mandalay, I advise you to keep this stash in mind.

The nearby Sandamuni Pagoda is famous throughout the world for its 1,744 stupas, each of which contains a marble slab with a record of the Buddha's teachings. As soon as long rows a la an anti-tank field appear in the photograph from Mandalay, it means that the Sandamuni Pagoda is in the lens. Another gem of the ensemble is a huge Buddha statue made entirely of iron. Looking at the guide to Mandalay, I found out that it weighs more than 18 tons...

When entering the last two objects I had to take off my sandals again, and I finally stopped liking this procedure. But the Mandalay hill, whose foot was next door, finished me off. Before I had time to take even a few steps along the steps of the stairs leading up, they stopped me and persistently asked me to take off my shoes. Considering that the tiled flights of stairs interspersed with concrete landings, I quickly stopped enjoying the hike. Yes, wonderful panoramas of Mandalay opened up from above, yes, the temples I met along the way looked very impressive. However, the prospect of stomping barefoot on a not-too-clean surface for God knows how long made me more and more tired with each step. It seemed that hordes of microbes were just waiting to attack and “reward” me with a fungus or some other rubbish. Meanwhile, the reward for asceticism will be just one more pagoda.

In general, I never made it all the way to the top. He spat on everything, took a series of panoramic photographs and then took his leave. Perhaps, instead of walking to Mandalay Hill, one should have used an elevator or escalator, or even got up by car, since local entrepreneurs willingly provide such a service. By the way, moving down the steep, snake-like highway, I met two tourists who had chosen an even more exotic form of ascent. In my opinion, walking along the steps and under the roof is still more convenient than walking along the side of the highway, right in the sun. No wonder they looked completely exhausted when they asked how far they still had to go. True, in response to my advice to get into some kind of car, the guys shook their heads, you know, they were not short of persistence...

I will add that where the beginning of the road to Mandalay Hill is located, there is a small sanctuary of the Burmese spirit Bo Gya, which can become a landmark. And after the hike, you can relax on the territory of the Chaiktogyi Pagoda. The complex, built in the third quarter of the 19th century, is famous for its huge Buddha statue carved from a single piece of marble. I also liked the abundance of carpets laid here and there...

The approaches to the pagoda are crowded with taxi drivers, motorcyclists and tuk-tukers, so for those who want to quickly get to the center of Mandalay, I advise hiring transport here, while there is plenty to choose from. But it’s better to ignore the stalls of merchants: Burmese food deserves tasting, but not in this form, when dear guests are served from vats of noodles and tripe, pouring hot sauces on the plate.

Not far from the famous hill near the northern gate of the Royal Palace is the Mandalay Zoo. The reviews about it did not inspire me personally, and I did not see any particular need to visit the attraction. Another thing is the cultural and historical museum, which occupies a building on the corner of 24th Street and the embankment of the palace moat, also known as 80th Street. There, unfortunately, the archaeological zone ticket is not valid, but since the fee is small, you can fork out three thousand kyats to learn more about the ancient art of Burma.

What else you can see in Mandalay is the Mahamuni Pagoda, located in the south of the city, at the very end of 81st Street, approximately where the old airport is indicated on the maps. The sanctuary is one of the most revered in the entire country; visiting it is believed to bring good luck. And there is also a whole necklace of small architectural monuments concentrated to the northeast of the local university campus. I’m not talking about those sights of Mandalay that are located outside the city...

At the end of the walk, the question arose in front of me, where I can eat inexpensively and tasty in Mandalay. I’ll say right away that I somehow didn’t come across any decent restaurants offering to try Burmese cuisine in an elegant setting, with waiters and tablecloths on the tables. What I saw constantly were Western-style establishments and fast food. I especially liked the Five Star office on 78th Street south of the station, which offered pieces of fried chicken accompanied by a side dish at reasonable prices of 3-4 thousand kyats. I had almost decided to eat chicken when I remembered how the previous fish tasting had ended, and in anticipation of a long journey I preferred to limit myself to a more modest meal. Almost native “Ocean supercenter” willingly sold several packages of cut fruits and, taking dragon berry, melon and mix, I happily spent about half an hour in the sun, occupying the curb of the fountain on the corner of the Diamond Plaza shopping complex.

It was already getting dark when I reached the hotel and settled down in the lobby, waiting for the promised transfer. At that moment, the future seemed cloudless: I had tickets to get from Mandalay to Bagan, and then to Yangon, the hotel was booked for the next night, food was stocked for evening tea, the plan for visiting the Bagan temples was ready.

I started to get nervous later, as soon as the time passed five, and no shuttle appeared in front of the Royal Pearl Hotel building...

The next destination on our way is Mandalay. When you mention the trip from St. Petersburg to Moscow, the famous notes of Alexander Radishchev “Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow” immediately come to mind. Likewise, one cannot even think about a trip to Mandalay without immediately thinking of the poems of Rudyard Kipling. Or rather, about one of his poems, called “On the Road to Mandalay”:
Come back here quickly
Do you hear the water squelching -
Wheeled ships are rushing towards Mandalay from Rangoon.
Of course, Kipling did not travel by train, but by paddle steamer up the Irrawaddy River. But Radishchev also describes the trip not by train or car, but by chaise. But both of them were able, if not forever, then for a very long time, to “privatize” their section of the road.
From Yangon to Mandalay, even now - purely theoretically - you can travel by boat. But this will take at least a week. Even in the opposite direction from Mandalay to Yangon downstream you need to swim at least five days. You can get there much faster by intercity bus - in just 12 hours. But we still have to worry about buses - in Myanmar this is the main form of intercity transport. In many places - and the only one. But you can also travel from Yangon to Mandalay by train. The British built the railway in Myanmar. It is gradually falling apart, but trains still run on it. It would be a sin not to take advantage of this.
If the intercity bus station is located on the outskirts of the northern city, not far from the airport, then the railway station is located almost in the very center of Yangon.

At the train station

The station, of course, was built by the British back in 1877 - as, indeed, all 5,000 km of Burmese railways. However, the British themselves destroyed it in 1943, when they fled Yangon. They didn’t want to leave their station to the Japanese. The Japanese did not get around to restoring the station. And the Burmese themselves, after gaining independence, had to restore this station. Therefore, the building turned out to be in a typical Burmese style - with a roof like a pagoda and turrets like in temples. The new station opened in 1954. And since then, if repairs have been carried out here, they have been purely cosmetic. All structures and equipment are half a century old. Only in the waiting room (they are only allowed in with tickets) there are innovations - old tube TVs (no longer working) and red plastic chairs. The cash registers are still old. Of course, there are no computers there. Tickets are sold the old fashioned way, by hand. For foreigners - a separate cash desk, foreign currency. But there are no other technical differences between it and neighboring cash registers. Tickets are also issued here manually. Although there is still progress. In the 50s, tickets were probably written with fountain pens, but now they are written with ballpoint pens. That makes all the difference.

Tickets for foreigners
For foreigners in Myanmar, train tickets are sold only in dollars. For example, from Yangon to Mandalay, travel costs $15 in a general carriage and $33 in a sleeping car. You don’t have to ask how much travel costs for Burmese, so as not to get upset. But even at “Intourist prices” a train trip cannot be called very expensive. But the trains run very slowly. The distance between the two “capitals” (Yangon is the capital of Lower Burma, and Mandalay is the capital of Upper Burma) is only 622 km, which is 100 km less than between Moscow and St. Petersburg. But the train - or rather, a super-fast express by local standards, and not an ordinary passenger one - takes at least 15 hours.
Tickets are not sold in advance at the station - even to foreigners. And even more so, you cannot buy them over the Internet. Or contact a state travel agency. Or go to the ticket office about an hour and a half before the train departs and buy it yourself - for cash dollars. There is no excitement, however. At least during the height of the rainy season. When we arrived at the station to get tickets (it was impossible to get there on foot - heavy tropical rain had just begun), it turned out that there were no other foreigners applying for a trip to Mandalay.
We bought tickets for a general carriage - closer to the common people. And indeed, they turned out to be the only foreigners in a full carriage. The general carriage of the Burmese train is very similar in appearance to the carriage of our electric train. Only the seats are uncomfortable - they are designed for Burmese sizes. It will clearly not be enough for Europeans. But they wanted to be closer to the people. Here we are.

Visa. For 28 days through a travel agency on Khao San Road - 2500 baht.
Currency. 1 USD = 700 chat.
Transport. Taxi from the Motherland II hotel to Yangon railway station - 2 thousand. Train Yangon - Mandalay - 15 dollars in regular class, 33 dollars in sleeper class.
Overnight. Hotel Moverland II - in Yangon - 16 dollars for 2 persons. Hotel Garden Hotel in Mandalay - 12 dollars for 2 persons.
Food. Pineapple - 200 – 700 chat/piece, mango 200 chat/piece. Cookies 300 g - 1 thousand chat. Noodles with meat - 1500 chat. Beer Myanmar 1250-2000 chat. Beer Mandalay 0.64 - 950 chat. Rice with vegetables - 1200 chat. Noodle soup - 500 chat. Soup - 300 chat. Tea with milk - 200 chat.
Attractions. Sule Stupa in Yangon - $2.

The cost of a flight always depends on the time of travel. The chart will allow you to compare prices for air tickets from Yangon to Mandalay, track the dynamics of changes in their cost and find the best offer.

Statistics will help determine the season of low prices. For example, in December prices reach an average of 30,506 rubles, and in June the cost of tickets drops to an average of 10,287 rubles. Plan your trip now!

We analyze this information and create charts to make it easier for you to plan your trips.

What is more profitable – to buy air tickets in advance, avoiding the general rush, or to take advantage of a “hot” offer closer to the departure date? The chart will help you determine the best time to purchase airline tickets.

See how the price of air tickets from Yangon to Mandalay has changed depending on the time of purchase. Since the start of sales, their value has changed by an average of 58%. The minimum price for a flight from Yangon to Mandalay is 49 days before departure, approximately 9,610 rubles. The maximum price for a flight from Yangon to Mandalay is 4 days before departure, approximately 27,558 rubles. In most cases, early booking helps you save money, take advantage of it!

Airfare from Yangon to Mandalay does not represent a fixed and constant amount. It depends on many factors, including the day of departure. The dynamics of changes are visible on the graph.

According to statistics, the most affordable option for flights from Yangon to Mandalay is on Tuesdays, their average cost is 11,089 rubles. The most expensive flights are on Saturdays, their average cost is 21,298 rubles. It is worth considering that flights on holidays are usually more expensive. We hope this information will help you plan your travels more effectively.

The cost of air tickets depends not only on the date, but also on the time of departure. An airline can operate several flights on one day, and they will differ in price category.

The graph shows the cost of departure depending on the time of day. For example, the average cost of a ticket from Yangon to Mandalay in the morning is 18,552 rubles. Evaluate all conditions and choose the best offer.

The graph shows comparative prices for air tickets from Yangon to Mandalay on the most popular airlines. Based on this information, you can plan your trip and buy air tickets from Yangon to Mandalay from the carrier that suits you.

Statistics will help you choose a flight based on your financial capabilities, as well as your wishes in terms of comfort and flight conditions. The lowest prices for air tickets from Yangon to Mandalay are offered by Golden Myanmar Airlines Public Co., Ltd, the highest prices are offered by Bangkok Airways.

Myanmar (also known as Burma) is a country that has relatively recently opened its doors to independent tourists, so it is now a tasty morsel for travelers to Southeast Asia. Of course, tourism here is not as developed as in neighboring Thailand or Malaysia. Therefore, backpackers from different countries have to improvise and use their wits in order to conveniently build their route around the country and see the maximum in the allotted time, without using package tours and without spending a fortune. In this article, we will break down all the available methods of moving around the country so that you can choose the most rational and acceptable one for yourself.

How to get into the country

• By plane

There are no direct flights from Russia/Ukraine/Belarus, and the country is not connected by flights to hub airports in Dubai, Qatar, and Turkey. You can only fly from nearby Asian countries. Numerous low-cost airlines operate regular flights to Myanmar from Thailand (Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket), Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur, Penang), Vietnam (Hanoi), Singapore, some Chinese airlines also operate flights from Guangzhou and Kunming, and Indian airlines from Kolkata. The cost of tickets from the nearest cities (Bangkok, Penang) fluctuates around 20-50 dollars one way, but with a promotion you can find tickets for at least $14. The country has two international airports - in Yangon and Mandalay.

• Along the land border

Land entry into the country is possible from Thailand, but out of 4 land points, only one consistently receives tourists who are going to enter the country by land. It is called Mae Sot – Myawady, located in the north-west of Thailand. The remaining points allow tourists into the country, but from that territory it is not always possible to get further along the ground. Getting inside the country is sometimes possible only by domestic airlines. These points are also used for visaran by those living in Thailand. Before entering the country, find out the latest information from traveler blogs so as not to lose your single-entry visa by entering from the wrong direction.

You can get from Myanmar to India by land and vice versa, but this method is not easy and also requires additional financial costs. You must first obtain a permit to visit certain territories of Myanmar through a Burmese agency. At the same time, you will not be able to spend an unlimited amount of time on the road and stop wherever you want along the way, since often a guide is assigned to the tourist, who guarantees your safety and that you will not interfere where you don’t need to. This opportunity has been available for the past few years, but in June 2016, the issuance of permits was temporarily suspended. Contact Myanmar travel agencies to ensure the latest information.

There is one land crossing from China, but it only allows tourists into a limited area. There are no border crossings with Laos and Bangladesh.

• On the boat

It is possible to get to Myanmar by water transport from the Thai Ranong National Park to the southernmost Burmese town of Kawthoung. But, unfortunately, your acquaintance with the country will end in this area, since you will not get further into the country. This is more of a one day excursion.

It is also possible to see the territory of Myanmar from the “Golden Triangle” - the borders of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. But here, on a boat excursion, you will be able to explore one village and one island. An excursion option; you cannot go further into the country.

Moving within the country

Despite the recent closure of Myanmar, today a traveler can use many modes of transport to get to the main attractions. A standard 1-2 week trip around the country usually follows a well-established route, the so-called “golden four”: Yangon – Bagan – Mandalay – Inle.

If you have more time, you can additionally visit the former summer capital of Pyin Oo Lwin and the Shan villages of Hsipaw and Lashio, Kalo village, the golden stone on the cliff near Kyaikto, the official capital of Naypyitaw, Mawlamyang city, caves in Hpa An, Ngapali beach resort, ancient city Mrauk-U, and a dozen other interesting places. The “golden four” attractions are connected to each other by a large number of transport, while less popular places can only be reached by domestic airlines or hitchhiking, since the bus and train networks are not well developed everywhere.

Here is an approximate map with all types of transport in Myanmar:

• Buses

The most preferred method of transportation by tourists in Burma. The Yangon-Bagan-Mandalay-Inle quadrangle is connected by a large number of carriers for any budget. From old regular buses (but with air conditioning), to VIP buses with airplane seats and a toilet inside. The comfort level of the bus directly depends on the ticket price. Most of these buses cover long distances, so they operate at night. Quite a convenient way to get where you need to go and at the same time save on an overnight stay in a hotel.

An unpleasant feature of most of the buses is that they make mandatory stops every 4-5 hours. At bus stops, everyone is kicked out onto the street regardless of their desire. Being woken up at two in the morning to a forced stop is not very pleasant. Ask in advance when buying a ticket whether the bus makes stops at night.

Buying a ticket

Everything is not so simple here either.

The paradox of Myanmar bus travel is that it is cheaper to buy a bus ticket at the hotel than at the bus station.

There are also special points for selling tickets from different companies (in Yangon, for example, they are located opposite the railway station), but even there they will charge you a commission. Exactly the same as in a hotel or at a bus station. Therefore, there is no point in going somewhere to look for tickets; it is more convenient to buy a ticket at the reception desk at your hotel or guesthouse. In this case, you can be picked up directly from the hotel by transfer bus. Getting to the bus station on your own will take a long time and possibly be expensive. For example, in Yangon, the bus station is located far from the city; you can get there by local bus No. 34 (departs from Sule Pagoda) for 200 chat (16 cents), or by taxi for about 8,000 chat ($7). At the same time, you need to take into account that the journey can take an hour and a half; you need to leave in advance to catch your flight. The bus station itself in Yangon is huge and everything is written in Burmese, but you don’t need to figure it out on your own, since at the exit of bus number 34 there are “helpers” who will take you to the right bus, and it’s free (you’ve already paid a fee for their services when purchasing a ticket).

You can try to buy a ticket directly at the bus station on the day of your trip, but this is also a so-so option, because:

1. Tickets for popular destinations are sold out quickly; you risk not making it in time if you arrive on the same day.
2. Ticket sales points at the bus station also charge a commission, and sometimes it is even higher than what is offered at the hotel or at sales points in the city.
3. If on that day there are only 1-2 buses traveling in the desired direction, you may be charged an indecent commission, because you don’t really have a choice.

Approximate cost of bus tickets for June 2016:

• Yangon – Inle $11
• Inle – Mandalay $9
• Mandalay – Bagan $9
• Bagan – Yangon $12

Tickets for VIP buses in the slipper class can cost about $15, but it will be a modern bus with “airplane” seats, a toilet inside, power sockets, crazy air conditioning (you will be given a blanket, but it’s better to take an extra warm jacket with you), also often They give you some water and a simple snack.

When arriving by bus at tourist places such as Bagan and Inle Lake, the bus stops near a booth collecting money from foreigners for entering the territory. At the same time, these tickets are almost never checked on the territory itself. On Inle the fee is about 10 dollars, in Bagan almost 25 (as of June 2016). If you do not want to pay this fee, you will need to come up with an alternative way to get there. For example, the booth near Bagan is open until ten in the evening, and if you arrive there on the last bus from Mandalay, there will be no one to take a bribe from you. And if you hitch a ride from the south, you won’t see the booth at all.

• Trains

Very useful site with all routes and prices. Myanmar trains usually have three classes:

1. Ordinary - wooden benches, fans, a little scary interior, but cheap and cheerful. A ticket from Mandalay to Yangon (700+ km, 14 hours drive) costs just under $4.

2. Upper – seats like on a bus, with white covers under the head, soft, but not very clean. More free, more comfortable, a small difference in price with an ordinary class. A ticket from Bagan to Mandalay costs 1,800 chat (one and a half dollars), the journey takes 7 hours.

3. Sleeper - similar to our coupe, but it is more spacious, has a larger area, inside there is a bathroom with a washbasin, sockets, and a table. A ticket from Mandalay to Bagan in this class costs about $20. For longer distances, the cost can be quite comparable to air travel.

The trains travel relatively quickly, but are very swaying and too noisy inside. Local food and snacks are often served on the train as it travels. At the stops you can also buy food and even drinks. Like our trains, they often serve beer and other strong drinks. There is no “European” food provided, take everything with you if you want. Don't forget hand sanitizer, soap and toilet paper. This rarely happens here.

The city train is a budget entertainment option available in Yangon. A circular train around the outskirts of the city costs 200 chat ($0.16) and takes three hours. A great opportunity to get acquainted with the life of Myanmar people, just sitting still and turning your head.

If you travel by train in Myanmar, we recommend visiting the highest railway bridge in the country, located on the way from Mandalay to the mountain town of Lashio. An excellent experience for those who like to tickle their nerves. The train covers a distance of 600 meters in 20 minutes, as the structure is more than a hundred years old. At the same time, viewers enjoy magnificent views from the windows of the train.

Attention!

When purchasing a train ticket, check the departure time twice.

There may be one information on the board (if you still understand this board), another on the ticket, and in fact the train may depart later or even earlier. And arrive at the station early just in case.

• Aircraft

Four local airlines fly within the country:

So far, they all operate on non-dynamic pricing; tickets cost almost the same all year round, regardless of holidays, workload and other factors. Prices start at $90 one way. There are airports in almost all “average” cities in the country.

Note for budget travelers:

If you want to visit Mrauk-U, the capital of the Rakhine Kingdom of the 15th-18th centuries, local travel agencies will unanimously insist that you can only get there by plane, to the town of Sittwe, and from there by boat. Supposedly there is no road on the ground, and an airplane is the only way. In fact, there is a road there, but there really are no direct buses from Yangon (at least as of June 2016). But you can take a bus to the town of Pyay, and from there hitchhike. The road is difficult, mountainous, but you can get there.

• Water transport

You can travel around the country by ferries along the Irrawaddy River. Several tourist cruises operate in the direction Mandalay - Bagan - Yangon (or in the other direction, but faster from top to bottom). Classic style cruise - you get a cabin, meals in the onboard restaurant, a guide and all entrance fees to attractions along the way. True, the cost of such a cruise starts from $1000.

A cheaper option to try water transport in Myanmar is to ride, or rather swim, from Mandalay to Bagan on a regular flight. A ferry ticket will cost about $20, depending on the intermediary company.

On Inle Lake, you can rent a boat for half a day so that you can be taken around the area and shown all the most interesting things. The cost of the boat is about $8 and is shared among all tour participants. If there are six of you, the price will be a little more than a dollar per person.

• Hitch-hiking

Here this type of movement is, of course, not popular, but it is quite possible, as elsewhere in the world. The first difficulty will be mutual understanding, since few people in the country speak English, and you are unlikely to be able to learn Burmese even to an elementary level as part of a tourist trip. Therefore, we recommend making yourself a mini-dictionary with the necessary phrases. Write down the names of the cities along the route and show the locals the name of the city in the local language.

Showing the map to locals is useless; most of them do not know how to use it. Cars filled with passengers often drive between small villages, like a local taxi. In general, people in Myanmar are very friendly and they will be happy to help you. Please also note that when leaving big cities there are usually a lot of motorcycles that block the right lane (in Myanmar, traffic is on the right) and it will be difficult for you to catch a car from the traffic.

• On a motorcycle

In theory, motorcycles cannot be rented to foreigners in Myanmar, by law. But in reality, no one monitors this and “everyone does it.” Renting here is certainly not as developed as in neighboring Thailand. But you can find options. For example, in Mandalay there are two rental offices that rent motorcycles to foreigners, and the range includes not only cheap Chinese scooters, but also enduro and even choppers. The passport is not taken as collateral, but a photocopy is made. An ordinary Chinese machine will cost you only $4 per day, and a Lanza will cost about $25. By motorcycle you can travel around the outskirts of Mandalay, to the town of Pyin Oo Lwin and further to Hsipaw, or you can make a big circle around Mandalay - Bagan - Inle and return back. Some guys did this trip in 7-8 days. In general, everything here is limited only by your imagination.

The roads in Myanmar are not bad, but the traffic is very chaotic and takes some getting used to. After Thailand/Malaysia it will be difficult to switch to driving on the right. You won't be able to speed up here; you always need to be on alert. Refills are not as common as we would like. Don't be put off by petrol prices - prices are usually per British gallon, which is about 4.5 litres. There are no shops like 7/11 along the road, and in general there is a shortage of shops here. The infrastructure in the country is just beginning to develop, but this also has its charms.

In Bagan, tourists are given electric mopeds for rent at a cost of about 3.5-6 dollars per day. An interesting type of transport that you need to try for yourself. Usually these bikes are limited in speed, traveling at a maximum of 30 km per hour. Some have a turbo button, but the owners strictly ask not to press it (we didn’t tell you that, if anything). You can also rent a bicycle in Bagan for about $1 per day. But it will be slower, and the territory of Bagan is quite large to explore. Regular petrol motorcycles are not allowed to tourists in Bagan under a strict ban.

Please also note that in Yangon, the use of motorcycles is prohibited by law within the city limits. This is the peculiarity: everywhere in the country it is possible, but here it is not possible. Yangon is probably one of the few major cities in Southeast Asia where motorcycles are not allowed.

The transport system in Myanmar is improving literally every year. On the one hand, this is very good for tourists, on the other hand, go right now if you still want to experience Myanmar authenticity.

This article is about what you can use to travel from Mandalay to neighboring cities and back.

Trains

Mandalay's main train station is located in the city center on 78th Street. The location of the station is more than convenient, at least more convenient than other transport hubs in the city. A trip to the train station can be quite impressive: it's a whole row of booths and ticket offices on the ground floor, where they try to charge you more than you should. In particular, pay attention to MTT, which looks the most professional, respectable and official in this series: but the prices there are twice as high as in other offices. To get tickets, it is better to go upstairs to the second floor - however, foreigners will have to go through special “rites” in the form of filling out a number of pieces of paper. But you can save on tickets! And yes, in this case you will have to arrive at the station early so as not to miss the train with all these procedures.

Tickets for foreigners are in any case more expensive than for locals. And they often ask to pay for tickets in dollars. For example, an eight-hour bus from Mandalay to Yangon will cost locals about $10, while a 12-hour train ride will cost a foreigner as much as $40. Moreover, many local trains do not allow entry to foreigners or only the best carriages. class where tickets are more expensive. Also keep in mind that trains here do not run particularly on schedule. In other words, you will have to be content with “what they give.” In most cases, the bus is a quicker way to get around, cheaper and much more comfortable, but on the other hand, the trains take you through some of the most beautiful parts of Myanmar: it's worth it!

Popular train routes from Mandalay are as follows:

- in Memyo, Kyaokm, Zipu and Lashio

The most beautiful and famous travel route in all of Myanmar is, perhaps, Mandalay - Lashio. Along the way you can admire Goteykom, a steel bridge connecting the cities of Lashio and Memyo. The bridge is about 700 meters long, and the water below is more than 100 meters away. At the time of construction, the bridge was an engineering feat and one of the largest such bridges in the world (and it was built in the late 19th century). The cost of a train seat in this direction is less than $10, and the train departs from Mandalay at 4 am. And yes, in addition to the bridge, the train will call at Kyaokm, Zipu and Lashi.

- to Bagan

If you want to travel by train from Mandalay to Bagan, then you, as a foreigner, will only be allowed to take the express train that starts from Mandalay at 21:00 and arrives in Bagan at 4:00 am. The fare ranges from $6 to $10, but don't forget that the train station in Bagan is even further away from Nyaong U than even the airport. You'll have to take a taxi, often for a lot of money, but you can also go to the center of Bagan by bus or boat, which is sometimes even more convenient.

- in Thazi, Naypyitaw, Taungoo, Bago and Yangon

The train departs for Yangon at 06:00, 15:00 and 17:00. Ticket prices start at $40.

- to Kalaw and Shwenyang(to get to Nyonshue and Inle Lake)

To get to Inle Lake from Mandalay City by train, you need to take the southbound route to Thazi and then transfer to the eastbound train to Shwenyang. The last section of the route offers exceptionally picturesque views, although the train travels very slowly there. From Shwenyang you need to take a bus to Nyon Xue. If you don’t have time for all these movements, just go from Mandalay to the lake by bus - it will be much faster.

- to Myitkyina(Shuebo, Naba, Hopin)

This is one of the most adventurous and beautiful train routes in the country. The train will take you through wonderful landscapes that few foreign tourists have seen, and will take you to an area where, by the way, it can be very cold, which may seem strange. Departure times are usually at 12:00, 14:20, 16:20 and 15:30. Ticket prices start from $36. The trip will take from 24 to 48 hours.

Buses

Recently, brand new buses from Europe were brought into Burma. Not only do the best ones boast very comfortable seats, games consoles and TVs, but some bus companies integrate speed sensors so that bus drivers can't drive too fast (as many drivers in these parts do). It is often very cold in such buses, because the air conditioners are set at a frosty 16 degrees, even in winter. A variety of companies run on a variety of routes, and, unlike trains, you can pay in kyat rather than dollars, and you won't be dragged through a tedious paperwork process like at a train station. Buses, unlike trains, are owned by private companies.

Buses from Mandalay depart from three stations scattered throughout the city. Chan Mya Shwe Pyi Bus Station(Kywe Se Kan) is the main one, and it is located 10 kilometers south of the city, that is, about a 45-minute taxi ride. From this station, buses go to Yangon, Bagan, Taunggyi, Inle Lake, Kalaw, Piyai and to more southern destinations such as Myawaddy and Mawlamin. You can get to the bus station by taxi for about 6,000 kyats (from the center the journey takes 45 minutes). Make sure you leave with plenty of time, or better yet, reserve a seat on the bus with the help of a hotel employee: seats on these buses often sell out quickly.

Pyi Gyi Myat Shin Bus Station is located southeast of the city center, on the corner of 60th and 37th streets. On 23rd Street, west of 88th Street and the Palace, you will find Thiri Mandala bus station.

Boats

The Irrawaddy River has many marinas, but the main one ( Gawein jetty) is located on 35th Street. Ferry and boat destinations include the ancient city of Mingun (on the other side of the river), Bagan in the south and Bamo in the far north.

To go to Mingun, your best bet is to take the boat from Mayan Chan Jetty located on 23rd Street. Under normal conditions, travel time is about 1 hour 15 minutes. A boat departs there every day at 09:00 (tickets start from 5,000 kyats per person). Private taxi boats can be hired for groups of one to five people for 25,000 kyat or 5,000 kyat per person if six or more people are going to board the boat. Boat taxis can be caught at this pier until 16:00, and the last boat to Mingun leaves at 17:00.

To go to Bagan, you can take a boat departing at 06:30 (but tickets must be purchased before 6 am) from the pier on Strand Road (between 26th and 35th streets). The trip takes about nine hours and costs about $40 with breakfast, lunch and water included.

Company Malikha Irrawaddy River Cruises(http://www.malikha-rivercruises.com) operate cruises departing from Malikha Mandalay pier on Strand Road (between 35th and 26th streets) on Sunday and Wednesday, from 05:00 to 18:00 . A ticket for such a trip costs approximately $15 for a seat on the deck and $30 for a cabin, but all without food and water (we take everything with us or buy it there). It is best to come for tickets an hour before the start.

If you want to go to Bamo, then cruises of the above company depart in this direction on Monday, Thursday and Saturday at 06:00. The trip takes three days and two nights, and the ticket price does not include food and drinks. Tickets cost $12 for a deck seat and $60 for a cabin.