Wachau: "Serenade of the Danube Valley". Wachau Valley as a day trip option from Vienna Wachau: Middle Ages and modern history
If you go west from Vienna, then 80 kilometers away you can see an amazing natural attraction - the Wachau Valley. The valley stretches between the cities of Melk and Krems and has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2000. What makes this place so significant?
Location
The valley of one of the largest European rivers, the Danube, is located in Lower Austria. Almost 30 kilometers of unique landscape are also united by special climatic conditions.
The valley is surrounded by the Dunkelsteinwald hills, completely covered with forests. Moderate humidity, plenty of sunny days, cool nights. These conditions are ideal for growing grapes and winemaking. The entire valley is covered with grape and fruit plantations. There are especially many apricots here.
Story
On the high hills located along the banks of the Danube, you can still see the ruins of ancient fortresses. These are the remains of the fortifications of the powerful barons of Kuening.
Until the 11th century, the “noble” family simply became obscenely rich through robberies of passing ships. But all the power quickly disappeared into history immediately after the death of the last baron, and the fortresses gradually collapsed.
For a long time, the surrounding area was ruled by the Babenbergs, the first Austrian princely dynasty. The legend of these places is connected with their reign.
According to legend, the English king Richard the Lionheart spent some time in captivity in Durnstein Castle located here.
Returning from another Crusade, he was captured by the Austrian Duke Leopold V "The Virtuous". According to legend, he was found in the castle by an English minstrel. He methodically walked around all the fortresses of Austria and sang a song at the walls that only Richard could know in these parts. Finally, in Durnstein he was lucky! The song was picked up by the captive, the singer realized exactly where the king was being held captive, and hurried with this news to his homeland.
To return Richard, England had to fork out a lot. With the 150 thousand marks received for the prisoner, Leopold V built three more fortresses.
The legend is not entirely true. It is known that Richard was kept in Vienna Castle, but local residents tend to believe the original version.
The Romans instilled winemaking traditions in local residents. Later, all the vineyards were owned by Catholic monasteries. During Turkish rule, the vineyards suffered greatly.
The Wachau Valley became a tourist Mecca at the end of the 19th century. After these landscapes began to appear in the paintings of Viennese artists, the valley became incredibly popular, the ancient monasteries literally blossomed, and the vineyards began to expand again.
Attractions
The best way to explore the Wachau Valley is by sailing along the Danube. Typically, a river boat excursion starts from the city of Melk. The city itself is also worthy of attention. Here is located ancient benedictine monastery, known since the 11th century.
The beautiful Baroque building is visible from all points of the city. Now there is a museum for visitors to the monastery, which contains a good collection of ancient art objects, church relics, and books. The monastery church of Peter and Paul amazes with its rich decoration both inside and outside.
Just a few kilometers from Melk, on a high cliff stands Schönbühel Castle. He is often called the "guardian of the Wachau". The palace was built at the beginning of the 12th century as the residence of the Bishop of Passau.
Over its long history, the castle was rebuilt more than once, until in 1819 it came into the possession of Count Beroldinger, who practically restored it from ruins. Today the castle belongs to the Oswald family, so it is impossible to get there without the invitation of the owners.
Slightly downstream of the Danube is located city of Dürnstein. The main attraction is the same Kunringerburg castle where, according to legend, King Richard was held captive.
The town is very small, only 16 km2. One street, microscopic area and 900 inhabitants. But the small size of the town does not in any way affect the perception of the picturesque surroundings in which it is located. It’s not for nothing that this town with an ancient fortress on a hill was so popular among artists.
When leaving the city, it is worth visiting a souvenir shop that sells apricot liqueur, chocolate-covered apricot kernels, jams, marmalade, wines, and many other tasty things that will be a wonderful reminder of your trip to the valley.
Just a few kilometers from Dürnstein is the town of Krems. The most notable landmark of the city is Göttweig monastery. It seems to float above the city, towering on a hill. It was founded at the beginning of the 11th century by the same bishop of Passau. You can freely explore this beautiful example of the Baroque style, and then have dinner in a small cafe located in the monastery complex.
How to get to the Wachau Valley
It is best to go on one of the boat excursions, which can be purchased in any city in Austria. Since the valley is located only 80 kilometers from Vienna, the excursion from the capital will take only one day.
Location on the map
Picturesque hills, medieval fortresses and monasteries, small towns - all this is worthy of the attention of a traveler who does not want to miss the pearl of central Europe.
The Wachau Valley is a picturesque and ecologically clean place in Lower Austria, included in the UNESCO cultural heritage list.
The Wachau Valley stretches for 30 km along the Danube River, between the cities of Melk and Krems. Traveling through the valley is one of the most popular routes among tourists. There's a lot to see here. At Durnstein Castle, Duke Leopold V held Richard the Lionheart, King of England, captive. There is also a famous abbey here. Driving through the valley, you can see castle turrets, small villages with leisurely inhabitants and, of course, grape fields. The Wachau Valley is a fertile place that gave the world the most expensive dry wine from Austria - Rieslings, as well as Gruner Veltliners. Here is also one of the most famous castles in Austria - Schallaburg.
Goettweig Monastery
Göttweig Abbey stands on the banks of the Danube in the Wachau Valley, at an altitude of 422 meters above sea level. The town of Krems is 5 kilometers from the monastery.
Göttweig Monastery was founded in the 11th century: the altar was consecrated in 1072, and 11 years later the monastery began to function. The first monks belonged to the Augustinian order. However, there were certain problems within the monastic brethren. To improve discipline, Ulrich Passau, a bishop from the Abbey of St. Blaise in the Black Forest, arrived in Göttweig in 1094. He proposed to accept the Benedictine Rule, which was done with the permission of Pope Urban II. The monastery began to grow, a library was opened, and a monastic seminary was built. In the 15th-16th centuries, the popularity of the abbey fell due to the spread of Protestantism, which naturally led to impoverishment. In 1580, a fire broke out within its walls, which was stopped. However, in 1718, a major fire almost completely destroyed the monastery complex.
Abbot Johann Bessel began to restore Göttweig with great zeal. The court architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt played a major role in the restoration of the monastery. The huge newly rebuilt building turned out to be luxurious and monumental. The lush Baroque decoration of the interior of the monastery, ornate candelabra, frescoes by Paul Troger, one of the largest and most beautiful Baroque staircases in Europe - all this has survived to this day and is open to public access.
Today, about 40 monks permanently live in the monastery. Cultural events and exhibitions are held here. Visitors can also try the monastery wine. In 2001, the monastery was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. And in 2006, his image was minted on a small series of Austrian commemorative coins.
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Gustav Klimt's Way
The Gustav Klimt Way is a very popular tourist route that passes through the places where this famous modernist artist created his paintings. Along its entire length there are information stands that describe the history of the creation of many masterpieces, as well as copies of the paintings themselves. The route begins at the column-shaped stands, which are located on the embankment of Lake Attersee. It provides information about the artist's life in several languages, as well as historical photographs showing the area during Gustav Klimt's life.
You can walk this route with or without a guide. The length of the entire path is 1 kilometer; during the excursion you will have to climb to a height of 460 meters. The route includes a visit to the Paulik and Oleander villas, as well as the ancient castle, where the artist often painted his paintings. You can take a walk in the footsteps of Gustav Klimt from the beginning of May to the end of September; the rest of the year the route is closed.
The Dürnstein fortress is located in the very center of the Wachau Valley, on the banks of the Danube. It was built in 1130-1140, and at the end of the 12th century, the English king Richard the Lionheart was held within the walls of the castle.
Almost two centuries later, in 1330, a church was founded here by the Order of St. Clare. From that time on, the town of Durnstein gradually turned into a city, a monastery of the Order of St. Augustine was built, and city walls were laid. The Gothic monastery building, built in the 15th century, was rebuilt in the 18th century in accordance with the Baroque style, according to the design of the architect Joseph Mangenast. In the 18th century, the monastery was dissolved by order of Emperor Joseph II.
Today the town of Dürnstein is one of the most popular tourist destinations. The foundation and walls of the very castle in which Richard the Lionheart sat are still preserved here. The restored monastery is open for tours. And in early April, peach trees bloom here, spreading fragrance around. The town of Durnstein is also famous for its wine.
Marie-Himmelfart Church
In the German city of Dürnstein, an ensemble of medieval buildings and structures has been preserved
Baroque style. If you look at the city from the river, then against the backdrop of a forested rocky mountain with the ruins of a castle, a blue and white clock tower, richly decorated with stucco decorations, catches your eye. This is the tower of the parish church of Marie-Himmelfart, which has become a symbol of the city. This beautiful example of Baroque is the architectural dominant of the ensemble of buildings of the monastery of Augustinian canons. Architects J. Munggenast, J. Prandtauer and M. Steinl took part in its creation.
The interior of the Marie-Himmelfart church is radically different from the blue and white façade. The church is rich not only in decorative architectural elements, but also in the greatest spiritual, cultural and historical heritage. There are unique works of art on religious themes here. In appearance, the small church accommodates a sufficient number of parishioners. Inside, its walls are painted white, which makes it unusually light, light and heavenly.
Kuenringer Castle
The ruins of Kuenringer Castle rise on the cliffs along the Danube. It was once a magnificent citadel in which Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned (1192). The castle was built in the 12th century by Albero Quenring and served his family for 500 years. All this time, no one managed to capture it, and even during the Great Siege led by Frederick 3, it held out. But after the attack of the Swedes in the 18th century, the castle was destroyed almost to the ground.
These ruins are very popular among tourists; many routes pass through them. While climbing the rock where the ruins are located, a beautiful view of the Danube and the entire valley opens up. At the top you can see the remains of the castle; from a distance you can see part of the defensive wall and fragments of the towers. The central part of the castle, several walls, fireplaces and staircases have also been preserved. The entire journey from the foot of the cliff to the ruins will take about 30 minutes; be sure to visit this interesting place!
The most popular attractions in Wachau with descriptions and photographs for every taste. Choose the best places to visit famous places in Wachau on our website.
The Wachau's terraced vineyards and gardens are especially beautiful in spring, when the peaches and apricots bloom. And how beautiful it becomes here in the fall, when the vineyards turn yellow! The valley owes its prosperity not only to wine, but also to piety. It was the monks who were the first to plant grapes here back in the 8th century. The monumental Melk Abbey, perched on a cliff above the Danube, made a huge contribution to the cultural and spiritual development of Wachau. The Benedictine monastery operated here for about a thousand years.
In no other wine-growing region in Austria will you find so many medieval towns and villages. Many wine festivals are held here from May to November. A railway track is laid along the coast. Everywhere you will see many bike paths, winding between vineyards and forests, along medieval fortress walls and powerful feudal towers. The distances are short, but you can see a lot. A tour of the local cellars can take a single day, and it is difficult to say what makes a greater impression - the majestic architecture, local hospitality or countless glasses of wine.
The Wachau Valley is a picturesque 30-kilometer stretch of the Danube, eagerly visited by tourists. A majestic river framed by low mountains covered with vineyards and forests, ruins of medieval castles, magnificent monasteries, churches and palaces, small medieval towns and legends of the Nibelungen create an unforgettable, romantic image of Wachau.
In the summer, you can spend a whole vacation in Wachau - there is enough entertainment and sights to see. During winter (November to March) most palaces and monasteries are closed, but the pretty towns and local wine are available year-round.
The city of Melk, located on the right bank of the Danube, is called the “Wachau Gate”. It is located 85 kilometers from Vienna and can be reached either by car or by train from Vienna's Westbahnhof station.
The main attraction of Melk is the Benedictine monastery / "Stift Melk" standing on the mountain.
The monastery was founded more than 900 years ago, but the current Baroque ensemble of buildings was erected at the beginning of the 18th century.
The monastery, by the way, is still functioning, is truly huge, it stretches in a “second tier” along the entire historical part of Melk.
The monastery complex includes seven large courtyards. Not all courtyards are open to tourists, but they can be seen on a large model located in the monastery museum.
The entrance to the monastery territory is guarded by two bastions with gates.
One of the bastions was converted into exhibition space, and an observation deck was installed on the roof.
The largest courtyard is the Prelatsky.
Not long ago, the monastery underwent complex restoration work, which took several years and 20 million euros.
After the restoration, modern painting appeared in the Prelate's Court.
A narrow passage and a long gallery lead to the monastery cathedral.
Inside the church everything sparkles with gold.
The interiors of the temple are truly luxurious.
Several courtyards and the cathedral can be explored on your own, and the monastery, unlike most historical and architectural monuments of Wachau, is open year-round, but access to the museum and internal premises is only with a guided tour.
The museum is located in the former imperial wing of the monastery.
Among the ultra-modern and brooding installations are objects of ecclesiastical art from the Middle Ages and the Rococo era.
The guide talks for a very long time and in very detail about the history of the Benedictine order, the monastery and the exhibits on display, and only after that opens the doors to the main premises.
The Marble Hall once served as the dining room of Empress Maria Theresa.
The monastery library occupies 12 rooms.
It stores handwritten books, incunabula, thousands of volumes from the 16th to 18th centuries, about 100,000 units in total.
The most interesting thing is that this invaluable library is operational; books are issued to various specialists for work. And the gaps among the books are not the original idea of museum workers; the books standing on these shelves are simply “in their hands” at the moment.
The imperial wing and the library are connected by a semicircular open gallery.
Only from here you can clearly see the main facade of the monastery cathedral.
And only from the gallery you can see the courtyard located in front of the cathedral with the statue of Melk’s patron saint, Koloman.
The ensemble of the monastery also includes the surrounding gardens.
The baroque park with its elegant garden pavilion is especially beautiful.
Most tourists come to Melk because of the monastery, but meanwhile, the ancient town itself, located under the monastery, is surprisingly nice and also deserves attention.
The center of Melk is the Town Hall Square / Rathausplatz.
The medieval town hall (Rathausplatz, 10) was completely rebuilt beyond recognition in the middle of the nineteenth century.
In front of the town hall there is a statue of St. Koloman (17th century), donated to the city by the abbot of the monastery.
At the very end of the square, at the fork of Hauptstrasse and Sterngasse streets, stands the "Old Bread Shop" / "Alter Brotladen".
This small house with two turrets was built in the 16th century.
To the right of Sterngasee, almost at its very end, a narrow, short passage rises up, which ends at a residential building made of rough stone ("Haus am Stein"). The house was built in the 15th century, and the vine on its facade is more than a hundred years old - it is protected as a natural monument.
On the bank of the Danube channel, on a high cliff, stands the residential building "Haus auf dem Stein". This house was rebuilt in 1550 from a 15th-century town tower.
However, part of the medieval city fortifications of Melk have survived to this day intact.
The former moat that surrounded the city walls and has now become one of the city streets - Stadtgraben - is also clearly visible.
From the former moat we return back to the city to Linzer Strasse, where at number 3 stands the building of the old city post office ("Alte Post").
The building was erected in 1792 and is considered the most beautiful post office in Austria.
Linzer Strasse leads to a small square with a statue of St. Nepomuk.
A short lane leading off to the right of this square leads to the town's parish church.
The Gothic building of the temple was built in the 15th century.
And monastery buildings are visible from almost all points of the city.
From Melk, downstream the Danube, the picturesque Wachau Valley begins with its mountains, castles, churches and tiny ancient towns.
About half an hour's drive from Melk on the left bank of the Danube is the town of Spitz.
It consists of two parts - the upper one, located on a hillock, and the lower one, stretching parallel to the Danube bed. The “Lower Town” is of little interest; you should immediately go up.
The center of the upper part of the town is the compact square Kirchenplatz.
Among the old houses in the square stands the town parish church.
The west tower, the oldest part of the building, dates from around 1300, and the church was rebuilt and expanded in the 15th and 16th centuries. At the same time, a roof made of glazed bricks appeared.
Narrow, pretty streets lead off from the square.
High above the city you can see the ruins of a medieval castle.
You can explore the castle, but you will have to get to it on your own two feet.
A couple of kilometers from Spiez, on the very banks of the Danube, near the city of Weissenkirchen in the town of St. Michael. Michael stands a mighty complex of buildings made of rough stone.
This is the fortress church of St. Mikhail.
The church itself was built in the 10th century, and at that time it was the only temple in the entire area. The interiors of the church are much later.
At the beginning of the 16th century, powerful defensive fortifications were erected around the church.
In 1395, the Gothic "Karner" was built next to the church.
There is no translation of the German word "Karner" into Russian, but perhaps it could be translated as "ossuary". The fact is that church graveyards, as a rule, are small, so old graves are preserved for some time, then they are opened, and the remains are moved to the “carner,” thereby freeing up space for new burials.
Another ten-minute drive along the left bank of the Danube will take you to the tiny and charming town of Dürnstein.
Durnstein is no more than half a kilometer in length, however, it is a real city with strong walls, towers and city gates.
Its main and, in fact, only street, lined with old houses, stretches parallel to the bank of the Danube.
One of the main attractions of Dürnstein is the Augustinian monastery.
Directly on the banks of the Danube stands the luxurious blue and white tower of the monastery church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary / Maria-Himmelfahrt-Kirche.
Once upon a time there was also a monastery of the Clarisses in Dürnstein. Now its remaining buildings have been converted into a hotel.
Another Kunigunden Kirche with a “carner” stands on a hillock next to the eastern gate of the city.
And on the cliff above the town you can see the ruins of the medieval Kunringer Castle, destroyed in the mid-17th century by the Swedes. According to legend, in 1192 - 1193 King Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in this castle. The castle ruins are open for viewing all year round.
There is no train station in Dürnstein; you can get to it either by boat or by bus from the Melk or Krems train stations.
“Closing” the Wachau Valley is the city of Krems an der Donau, the historical core of which is located on the left bank of the Danube. Krems is much larger than other towns in the Wachau Valley, but no less beautiful and romantic.
The very beautiful Steiner Tor gate leads into the historical part of Krems.
This is the only one of the four city gates that has survived to this day.
The gate itself was erected in 1480, and the high tower above it was completed in the mid-18th century.
The main pedestrian street of Krems, Obere Landstrasse, begins from the gate.
There are many shops on the main street Obere Landstraße, so you can combine a romantic walk around Krems with shopping.
Many of the city's attractions are concentrated on the main street, for example, the former hospital church of St. Philip and St. Jacob / "Bürgerspitalkirche", built in 1470 in the late Gothic style.
The façade of the old City Hall / Rathaus overlooks the Ober Landstraße.
The building was built in 1452 as a residential building. A century later it was rebuilt and converted into a town hall. At the same time, a beautiful corner bay window appeared.
Below under the bay window is the figure of Samson with a lion.
Above the bay window is decorated with a garland of acanthus, and at the very top is the coat of arms of Krems.
The neighboring house with the pharmacy (Obere Landstrasse 2) was rebuilt from two 16th-century houses.
In general, there are a lot of old beautiful houses near the town hall.
On the opposite side of the Obere Landstraße from the town hall, almost opposite the town hall, begins the long and narrow square Täglicher Markt (literally translated “daily market”). At its very beginning, corner to the town hall, there is a 15th-century residential building - "Göglhaus" (Täglicher Markt, 2).
The bay window above the entrance to the courtyard belongs to the house chapel.
The wall paintings are younger than the house itself, dating back to the 16th century.
From the adjacent alley you can also see the courtyard with beautiful galleries.
Täglicher Markt leads to a pompous building that remains from a monastery that once stood here.
Behind the town hall is the Kirchenplatz/Church Square.
The entire middle of this square is occupied by the parish church of St. Veit / St.-Veit-Kirche.
The building was rebuilt in the 17th century from a 12th-century Romanesque basilica.
The square is surrounded by narrow streets with old houses.
One of these streets - Slüsselamtgasse - leads to the Dominikanerplatz / Dominican Square and Körnermarkt / Grain Market squares.
The complex of buildings of the former Dominican monastery is now occupied by the Krems Museum.
From the Church of St. Veit, the Piaristenkirche church standing on the hill is clearly visible.
The building was built in the 16th century.
It is worth paying attention to the sculptural compositions placed in the niches of the outer wall of the church.
From here, from the hill, the Stift Göttweig monastery, located five kilometers south of Krems, is clearly visible.
The streets in this part of the city are paved with absolutely creepy small cobblestones, but you still need to walk along them.
The short alley Pulverturmgasse leads to the Powder Tower of the city fortifications.
Next to the tower on the lawn there is a small 15th-century sculpture "Mandl ohne Kopf".
Scientists have still not come to a consensus whether this is part of a roland (a sculpture - a symbol of the free city), or a fragment of a pillory.
From the Powder Tower along the Stiftgasse street we go down to another city square - Hoher Markt / Upper Market.
On this square stands the oldest building in Krems - "Gozzoburg".
The house was erected at the beginning of the 13th century, and in the second half of the same century it was rebuilt in the Italian style.
In the 16th century, an arcaded Renaissance courtyard was built inside, and old frescoes were preserved in the house itself.
The Wegscheid street, which descends steeply from the square, abuts the main pedestrian street.
At the intersection of these two streets in 1929, the "Simandlbrunnen" fountain was installed.
Around the same time, at the border of the historical center of Krems, on the square opposite the beautiful Steiner Tor gate, the huge building of the Lower Austrian State Court was erected.
The arcade of the building is decorated with a row of sculptures.
Well, in conclusion, we note that in our short walk we showed only a small part of what the Wachau Valley is rich in. The route we presented is suitable for a one-day trip at any time of the year.
And finally, let us give you some useful tips. By public transport, you can get to Krems either by boat, or by direct train from Vienna Franz-Josef-Bahnhof station, or by train from Westbahnhof station with a transfer in the city of St. Pölten. Via St. Pölten you can also travel from Melk to Krems. And you can travel around the Wachau Valley itself by car, bus, bicycle (a separate bike path is laid along the banks of the Danube), a regular boat, or board a cruise ship in Vienna that plies along the Danube.
One can speak, perhaps, forever about the unforgettable beauty of Vienna, its order and musical soulfulness. And you can wander around squares, parks, museums and theaters for more than one week. But still, Vienna is far from the only inspiring place in Austria. Therefore, if you came to Vienna only for the weekend and want everything at once, if the thirst for new discoveries still haunts you, and there is simply no time for a long journey, then a trip to the Wachau Valley may be a perfect option for a short outing.
The Wachau wine valley stretches 30 km along the Danube between the cities of Krems and Melk, and also includes the towns of Dürnstein and Spiez. Thanks to its unique winemaking traditions and numerous historical monuments, the valley has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2000.
How to get there
One of the good options for exploring the valley is a cruise on the Danube. All possible departure options and routes for the river walk can be viewed here: http://www.ddsg-blue-danube.at/eng/index.php. You can also book combined train+ferry tickets on this website.
But due to my love of exploring cities from land, we decided to use ground transport: train and bus. As an additional bonus, this option is much cheaper.
Of all the cities in the valley, it was decided to visit Krems and Durnstein, as they were the closest in spirit.
From Vienna to Krems you can take the train, which leaves almost every hour from the Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof train station to the Friedensbrücke metro station. Travel time is about an hour. And to be exact, exactly one hour and three minutes - oh, these punctual Austrians! Schedules and prices can be found here: http://www.oebb.at/en/index.jsp.
It is worth noting that a one-way ticket for one person costs 16.40 euros. But if you are traveling with at least two people, it is much more profitable to take an Einfach-Raus-Ticket for 35 euros, which will allow a group of 5 adults to ride all day.
Buses run constantly from Krems to Dürnstein, once every half hour or hour. The journey takes about 30 minutes. The exact schedule can be found at the bus stop, which is located near the train station.
In total, the pure round trip takes 3 hours.
Krems
The reason for my special desire to escape from Vienna on Sunday was the unrequited love of European cafes and shops, almost all of them go away for the weekend. Although it is worth noting that in Krems this was not particularly joyful either: it was not crowded and almost everything was closed.
But still, whoever seeks will always find. Garlic soup cost about 5 euros.
Krems is a fairly small town, so in order not to get lost it is enough to keep an eye on the church spire.
Durnstein
The first thing we saw on the way from the stop to the town was a considerable area of vineyards! It’s not for nothing that these places are famous for their winemaking.
And if Krems could be called a set for some theatrical production, then Dürnstein could be called some kind of toy town.
Well, if you walk the small main street to the end, you will see a beautiful view of the Danube.
All this, of course, is very beautiful, but still the main attraction of this town is the ancient dilapidated castle.
Having looked at the impenetrable forests and the steepness of the hill, we came to the conclusion that it would not be possible to climb to the top without extreme extreme activities. And, upset, they joined the people imposingly sipping coffee.
But already at the exit from the town there was an incomprehensible arrow towards the inaccessible thickets! How could we have missed it? As it turned out later, the arrow actually pointed to the path to the castle. The road ahead was not easy: already a quarter of the way I was regretting the strudel I had cracked on both cheeks.
