From Arles to Les Beau de Provence. Les Baux de Provence

So, another morning in Provence, we are leaving Saint-Rémy de Provence for Les Baux, in the previous part I promised to tell you about the most “wonderful” restaurant during our entire trip to Provence and the Cote d'Azur.
Meet or better not meet Le Cafe De La Place is located right on the main square of Saint Remy. We came for breakfast, ordered a standard breakfast and coffee with tea, the young man brought it in about 30 minutes (obviously in no hurry), after which we had breakfast (and meanwhile discovered that the menu included one thing for breakfast, but in reality something obviously not enough) to our question, the guy went about his business and said that we will now be served by the lady who just came and kissed the (obviously local) aborigines, laughing and discussing something, not paying attention to the clients, after waiting for 40 minutes (minimum) we left the money minus tea and what was missing in breakfast, left and headed to Le Beau, and we deliberately left in no hurry, hoping that they would still stop us, but... apparently the clients and the money for them obviously alien.
Well, about other things, enough negativity, our path lay through villages to the castle of Les Baux de Provence.

Les Baux begins with dizzying serpentines and the most picturesque views of Provence, so by the time you arrive at the village located at the foot of the former castle, you are already ready for medieval adventures.

Proudly rising on a high bare rock stretching about 900 meters - the once impregnable Les Baux-de-Provence (Les Baux-de-Provence). The nest of the *eagles* of the princely family of de Beau and the capital of the famous troubadours.
We parked for free near the entrance to the Les Baux caves.
The ancient castle and town of Les Baux (Beau is the surname of the ancient family that owned these lands) rise above the “valley of hell,” where, according to ancient legend, sorcerers and witches from all over Provence gathered for sabbaths.

In the Middle Ages, the best troubadours and minstrels in France competed in this castle. During the time of Nostradamus, Le Beau still flourished, but its decline was already close: in 1632, the castle was destroyed by order of Louis XIII, as a stronghold of Protestantism. Now the castle lies in ruins, but the town at its foot has been rebuilt and is living again.
On the streets of Bo

Hell's Valley, where, according to medieval legend, sorcerers and witches from all over Provence once gathered for sabbaths.

They say that it was her views that inspired Dante to write the Divine Comedy.
Interior of the Church of Saint Vincent (13th century)

Protestant trace. The Latin inscription Post Tenebras Lux ("light after darkness") above the surviving 16th-century window is a Calvinist motto signifying hope for a better future. It didn't come true...

The village turned out to be quite small - just a few parallel narrow streets going up at a gentle angle - but the concentration of interesting buildings per square meter exceeds all imaginable limits.

Place Saint-Vincent, here is the Chapel of the White Penitents, built by the Brotherhood of the White Penitents in the 17th century.

The local toilet is a godsend, how high-tech combines with antiquity

An interesting fact: in the 17th century, the last ruler of Le Beau donated it, along with the title, to the Grimaldi family. Then these lands, of course, were returned to France, but the title of Marquis de Beau remained in the Grimaldi family. So, today, among the numerous titles of the current Prince of Monaco, Albert II, there is also this title - “Marquis de Beau”.
By the way, Les Baux has a large selection of interesting and unusual souvenirs. Olives and lavender in different variations, and also colorful ceramic beetles - a symbol of happiness in Provence (I only read about this when I started preparing a story about Le Beau).

Valley view

Couldn't help but stock up on sweets

It's time to go to the castle itself, entrance is paid (there is a Russian audio guide), the cost is about 15 euros per adult + ticket to the caves.
More lavender bushes and working medieval weapons.

The views of the valley are amazing, there’s a sea somewhere there

Grapes, olives, a real French landscape, the construction of anything in the valley, by the way, is prohibited by law.

The pride of the overlords knew no bounds - they considered themselves direct descendants of the biblical king Belthassar, and therefore never obeyed the Counts of Provence.

These formidable walls were the center of courtly culture in the 13th century. The bustling life of the Bossans attracts the most famous troubadours of France under their wing - Vaqueyras and de Castellane, Guy de Cavallon and Mistral sang the romantic streets of Le Beau in their creations.
How it was and how it became

View from the upper castle

But the fate that history had prepared for the castle was unenviable - the troops of Louis XIII almost completely destroyed the castle and its strong walls in 1632 during the religious wars.
A few more photos of the once majestic Le Beau Castle

The steps to the upper castle and here you can ask yourself only one question: how many thousands of people walked along them and how old are they?

Afterwards we headed to the caves, to be honest, at first I didn’t want to go there, but my wife persuaded me and, as always, it turned out to be right, the caves are something! This is something with something! Emotions were running high.

This is where the real 3D, IMAX rests, it’s a pity that photos and videos can’t convey it.

This is what it looks like during a pause.

After the sweltering heat, taking refuge in a cave is a real pleasure. And then you go and a castle is built around you

A riot of colors

You walk through a cave, and below you the foliage or flowers move

In general, the Les Beau caves are probably the most stunning and memorable thing in Provence and France, well, at least one of... Definitely a must see, there’s definitely nothing like it anywhere else, maybe I’m wrong.

A wonderful day, apart from the bullfighting incident which spoiled the mood in Arles. But we survived it.

Another side of Provence: the Alpilles mountains, where Les Baux de Provence is hidden on a hill, and the Camargue, with its unforgettable capital - the city of Arles, bulls, horses, flamingos, beaches in Sainte-Marie and a gypsy saint. New colors and a completely different image of this region.

Les Baux de Provence

Arles

Camargue / Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer

Les Baux de Provence

In the morning we went to Les Baux. Moreover, I decided to go early in the morning, because after 10 am the city begins to fill with tourists, so much so that there is no crowd. And behind the crowd you can no longer see the city, so I like to come to Les Baux early in the morning or after 6 pm, when the diverse crowd leaves, the city is free, and there is an overview of the old walls, remembering the history of Provence.

We didn’t go to the quarry to look at Chagall (previously this was a curiosity, now we have someone to show Bosch and others to), nor to the castle, admire the panorama from above and train our imagination, trying to imagine where and what was in these ruins.

The Santon Museum is very good: it is a very important part of the local culture, characteristic not only of the French, but also of the Italians. So I recommend it. Here you can learn everything about the history and meaning of these figurines, which were first made for Christmas crèches, and then began to depict local life.

But I’m used to the fact that Provençal bullfighting is bloodless and everything is ok. I forgot that the Spaniards are visiting, that Arles has had close ties since the times of the Spanish Civil War, when a large diaspora appeared in the city, and that the tauromachy has always been the number one entertainment for the Arlesians.

Everywhere everything is ready for the holiday: bullfighting is broadcast on TV, decorations are hanging everywhere, paella is being prepared.

And here. We definitely weren’t going to the arenas, and I didn’t suggest it. But the arenas came to us: we passed by (still an important Roman monument, still used for its intended purpose to this day), and there they were loading a dead bull using winches. Since I didn’t immediately understand what it was, I specifically went up to look and saw his eyes. In general, today we discussed this with Marina again: it was terrible, I feel sorry for the bull and it was all so bloody. It’s good that the tourists didn’t see these eyes.

View of the arenas

In general, the arenas are a very important monument of the city. They have been in place for almost two centuries, one of the largest in Gaul.
Arles has many different important monuments from different eras. First of all, the Roman heritage: the theater, also used for festivals, and the cryptoporticos, where people once walked and goods were stored, and the arches and the former Roman cemetery in Aliskam.

Church of St. Trophim

For me personally, the monuments of the Romanesque times are more important, and the Southern Romanics are oh so good. First of all, the Church of St. Trophim. You can stand at the portal for hours, looking at every detail. Look at the work! Twelfth century! experts say it has something in common with the scene in the ancient Roman theater, which is literally around the corner.

The inside is also very interesting, but don’t forget that Provençal churches also have a siesta.
On the square, by the way, there is another Roman monument - an obelisk that used to stand in the local circus, as well as a later structure with the participation of the royal architect Hardouin-Mansart. Note how the ceiling of the lower floor rushes upward. In fact, it is an illusion. In the same hall there is an entrance to the cryptoporticos.

inside city hall

One of the main squares of the city is, without a doubt, the Forum Square. once there was a Roman forum here, then hotels where bohemians lived for a long time, then cafes and restaurants... Now there is a large open-air restaurant, which Mistral looks at sadly. main singer of the Provençal language.

Here is the famous Café de la Nuit, immortalized by the great Dutchman Vincent. By the way, not a bad place to eat, although given its history, not the cheapest.

Cafe from Van Gogh's painting

There are a lot of interesting things connected with Van Gogh here. The city came up with a good move and placed signs with reproductions of works painted in this place in the places where the artist placed his easel. Very interesting. Such signs are not only in the center, but also outside the city. so again, the quest is for those who want it.

Let me remind you that there was a holiday in the city on that day, so many squares and historical buildings were converted into restaurants and exhibition centers. The theme was “flavors of the Camargue”, so local rice, wine, salt and other products were presented at every corner.

Flavors of Camargue, rice

And, of course, horses and bulls. Just before leaving, we managed to see how live bulls were driven back into cars by real Camarguese shepherds.

Shepherds lead the bulls

Then we said goodbye to Arles and went to see bulls, horses and others in the wild.

Camargue - Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer.

Another special world of the region, where there are no mountains, but there is sea, salt marshes and a complete feeling of another planet. In terms of fauna, in the sense of the famous Kamarguez horses and bulls, it depends on your luck. You may meet it, or you may not. Wild grazing is less common, but still possible. As for birds, there are a huge number of them, which are distinguished by a variety of species, but the main ones, of course, are flamingos. They can also be seen once in a while, although there are places where they are seen very often.

As always, in the heat we started with cooling. Sea. Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer, the recognized center of the Camargue, has very good sandy beaches. Very comfortable.

Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer is a fairly ancient city associated with the main legend of Provence, the arrival here of saints from Palestine, and, above all, Mary Magdalene. Magdalene herself did not stay here, but two important saints, Mary Salome or Mary Zebedee, the mother of the Apostle St. James the Elder and Mary Cleophas, the mother of James the Younger, chose this place where the boat landed as a place of residence and distribution teachings of Christ.

Church of Saints Mary

There is still a church on this site, which is the main attraction and place of attraction for pilgrims three times a year: May, October and December, when different people come to worship the two Marys and their maid Sarah (although, presumably, she was the wife of Pilate, from whom he refused because she converted to Christianity).

Sarah's crypt

The church is very similar to a fortress, and not by chance: it was part of the city fortifications. Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer was often attacked by enemies, both those seeking to gain land for themselves and dangerous Saracens, and was constantly in need of protection. The church is very interesting both externally and internally, with a chapel above the altar, under the roof, the crypt of St. Sarah below and a well with drinking water, which the saints once found.

Otherwise, Sainte-Marie has long been turned into a resort town, where everything revolves around the beach, cafes and restaurants (seafood, fish, famous bouillabaisse), souvenirs and tauromachia.

The city itself is very pleasant: white, one-story, it creates a feeling of comfort.

The museum is closed indefinitely: it needs to be restored, which is why the door is boarded up in the photo. This is the second high-rise building in the city, after the church.

At every crossroads in the city there are reminders of the symbols of the Camargue.

Horses of the Camargue

Just outside the city in the direction of Arles there are ponds and canals where you can see flamingos. We were lucky, the birds were there (once they flew right in front of us), peacefully looking for food in the water.

We didn’t specifically look for bulls and horses, just along the way. In principle, we also had a lot of them in Arles, but it is undoubtedly interesting to look at them as they are.

There is one more feature in the Camargue: these are the shepherds' houses. They must have a semicircular northern side. This is in case of the mistral, which blows from the north. Imagine the force of the wind, which must be so absorbed.

Shepherd's house

In the Camargue, as a national reserve, there are many different biological stations where you can watch birds (mainly at the Vaccares pond), there is the Camargue Museum, where you can learn everything about this region of the Rhone delta.
As travelers by car, we were limited: we have to walk around the Camargue, there are special multi-kilometer roads for hikers, through the most beautiful places.
Another option is to take a boat ride along the Petite Rhône from Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer. There they can show performances for tourists in the form of shepherds chasing bulls. Once upon a time, however, it is not necessary.
We went to sleep in Avignon, and under the flash of lightning.

Les Baux (in Provençal dialect - “high rock”) is a commune of Provence, part of the association “The Most Beautiful Villages of France”, located on a high rocky ridge. The village of Le Beau is surrounded by equally interesting “neighbors”. So, just a few kilometers away is Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where Nostradamus, famous for his predictions, was born. Also nearby is the monastery of Saint-Paul-de-Mousol, on the territory of which there was a hospital for the mentally ill - the brilliant Van Gogh spent some time there and painted. The first settlement on this land was founded by the ancient Celts. But today's village arose from a 10th-century castle carved into the rock and owned by the influential wealthy Le Beau family, whose possessions included about 80 local villages. At the beginning of the 17th century, by order of Cardinal Richelieu, the castle was destroyed and remains in ruins to this day. On its territory there is an open-air museum displaying ancient siege weapons, and performances on the theme of the Middle Ages are held. There are other attractions in the village of Les Baux. For example, the Santons Museum with a collection of figurines of saints, as well as a museum dedicated to the artist Yves Brayer and located in a 16th-century mansion. In addition, there are the most beautiful churches here - Notre Dame du Chateau, St. Andrew and St. Vincent, as well as the chapel of St. Catherine. About 1.5 million tourists visit the village of Les Beau every year. They are attracted here by narrow medieval streets with ancient buildings, incredibly picturesque lavender fields for which Provence is famous, as well as delicious local wines, which have long been famous throughout the world.

Business card

History and modernity

Relatively recently, archaeologists have found mass graves dating back to 6000 BC, indicating that these lands were inhabited by the ancient Celts, who were engaged in agriculture here, cultivating local fields. During the Roman invasion, the settlement was devastated and remained desolate until the beginning of the Middle Ages, when the noble and powerful lords of Le Beau built a citadel castle here. Then the village again faced a long period of decline and oblivion associated with Provence’s loss of independence and the ruin of the Le Beau family. And only in the 19th century there was a new surge of interest, when a rich source of aluminum ore - bauxite - was discovered in Les Baux-de-Provence. After the end of the Second World War, when the road network was built and the tourist infrastructure developed, the village of Les Baux became extremely popular.

What to see, where to visit

First of all, tourists visiting Le Baux get acquainted with the remains of an ancient castle, carved into a single piece of rock and occupying a huge area of ​​7000 square meters. m. In addition to the ruins of once powerful fortifications, it is interesting to see active Roman and medieval siege weapons, and from the fortress walls you can enjoy wonderful panoramic views of the surrounding area. In the summer, theatrical performances take place here.

The attractions of Les Baux-de-Provence certainly include the still active Church of Saint-Vincent, also partially carved into the rock. Back in the 12th century, the Saint-Blaise chapel was erected here, representing an example of the early Romanesque style in Provence. Entrance to it is free; in the chapel you can watch an interesting film “Les Baux-de-Provence - bird's eye view."

And at the base of the local rocks lies the famous Valley of Hell, which received its name due to an original natural phenomenon. The soft white sandstone has been eroded for millennia, causing the natural material to deform and create intricate sculptures. It is believed that the Valley of Hell inspired Dante to write the Divine Comedy after visiting it. From March to January, very colorful light and music performances take place here. And every year - on a new topic.

Local cuisine and wines

Little Les Baux-de-Provence has two famous restaurants - Oustau de baumaniere and Baumaniere la cabro d'or, which received 5 Michelin stars each - the highest rating for the quality of cuisine! They not only prepare excellent French dishes, but also serve delicious local wine, which we recommend you try.

You'll find the tourist favorite Beau de Provence on the list of "The Most Beautiful Cities in France". Bo is exactly twenty two historical monuments, twenty-two souvenir shops and workshops, and oddly enough, the same number of permanent residents.

Beau is located on a plateau at the top of the Alpilles mountain range, surrounding the Arles valley and the Camargue estuary to the east. Due to its favorable location, the plateau was inhabited in the early prehistoric period. In the chronicles, Bo first appears in the 10th century under the name “Balcium Castrum”. In the medieval period, Beau became the cradle of one of the most powerful families of Provence: the Beau dynasty owned seventy to nine cities that bore the name “Bossenque lands” (“les terres baussenques”). Lord Bo considered themselves the heirs of Balthazar, the legendary sorcerer who came to worship the baby Jesus; the number of their lands - 79 - was also considered sacred.

The Beau dynasty, surrounded by such powerful powers as Comte-Venessin, the County of Provençal and Avignon, managed to maintain its independence for centuries. In the 15th century, the death of Princess Alix marked the end of the Bo dynasty and the independence of the city and its lands. Beau became part of Provence during the reign of Louis III, King of Sicily and Count of Provence. Like the rest of the Provencal lands, it passed to the French crown under Louis XI. To prevent possible uprisings in the distant, wayward province, in 1483 the castle of Beau was destroyed by royal order.

Beau was in the direct possession of the king, independent of Provence and retaining its privileges, but in the 16th century the city again showed its rebellious character, sheltering the instigators of the uprising in Aix-en-Provence, suppressed by the Prince of Condé. The troops of Cardinal Richelieu besiege Beau and, having taken the city, destroy the castle of Beau, this time completely. In 1642, Louis XIII bestows the title of ruler of Beau on Hercule Grimaldi. The House of Grimaldi has retained the title of Marquis of Beau-de-Provence to this day, now held by Prince Albert of Monaco.

Having been forgotten for a long time, Bo comes back to life after the Second World War, when restaurateur Raymond Thuillier builds a world-famous four-star hotel-restaurant in the city. "Oustau de Baumanière", where Queen Elizabeth, Jean Reno, Bono and Hugh Grant, among others, stayed. In 1960, the entire city was declared a historical monument under the protection of the French Ministry of Culture.

When entering the city, you will certainly pass by Royal House(Maison du Roy), built in the 15th century. It now houses the city's tourist information office, where you can get a map of the city, find out the times of organized excursions, etc. At the first intersection turn right - you will come out to Santonov Museum(traditional Christmas figurines - one of the most popular Provençal souvenirs). Children will especially enjoy this museum; entry is free. A few steps from the museum there are Water gate(La Porte d’Eyguières), which until 1866 were the only entrance to the city. From the Water Gate, a paved street (in Provence, calades are streets paved in a special way - when the stones are laid vertically) leads to Place Saint Vincent, on which they sat side by side Church of Saint Vincent(Eglise Saint-Vincent), built between the 12th and 15th centuries in the Romanesque style, and the Chapel of the White Penitents (Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs), built by the Order of Penitents in the 17th century. The inside of the chapel is decorated with frescoes by Yves Brayer, one of the most significant contemporary French artists. The Yves Braer Museum is located next to the church.

If you come to Bo, you can't miss visiting lock(le Château). What remains of the once impregnable castle are beautiful ruins and magnificent views of the Alpine mountain range and the rooftops of Beau. By choosing the right time for your visit, you can see knightly tournaments and medieval siege engines in action in the castle (from April 1 to September 30, a catapult is launched daily in the castle). When purchasing entrance tickets to the castle, do not forget to ask for an audio guide in your language and a map of the castle’s secrets for children.

A walk through the city does not end with a visit to the castle - following the castle street (rue du Château) you will soon come to the unique monument to Beau - a stone window from the Renaissance era with an inscription Post Tenebras Lux(After darkness - light) - the slogan of the Calvinist reformation. Next to the window - Hotel Manville(Hôtel de Manville) is one of Beau's most beautiful buildings, built for a wealthy Protestant family. (It should be remembered that in French the word hotel means not only hotels, but also government buildings, as well as private mansions of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance “hôtel particulier”). IN Hotel Jean de Brion now houses one of the most interesting museums in the region - the Fondation Louis Jou - a private collection collected by one of the most famous printers in France (visiting the collection is possible only by prior arrangement in groups of 30 people or more).

After walking around the city, visit Cathedral of Images(Le Cathedrale d'Images) - a unique "exhibition" of light and music, consisting of light projections of great paintings and photographs, organized in an abandoned bauxite quarry. Since 1977, the Cathedral has changed projections every year, once again surprising not only tourists, but also local art lovers. The 2010 projection is dedicated to Australia.

Beau de Provence is located between cities Aix-en-Provence And Avignon. From Aix-en-Provence, head towards Salon-de-Provence, then follow the D17 departmental highway until it intersects with the D781 (La Route des Baux-de-Provence). From Avignon, head towards St.-Remy-de-Provence, then take the D5 highway until it meets the D17 highway.

There are two in Bo bus routes(St. Remy - Arles and Salon - Arles). In any major city in the Bouches-du-Rhône department, tourist offices offer day trips to Beau de Provence. Information about excursions can be obtained from the city tourist offices (Office de Tourisme).

There are several paid parking lots around the city (parking costs 3 euros), parking in the immediate vicinity of the city walls costs 5 euros per day, but on days of a large influx of tourists it is very difficult to find a parking space.

It is very important to choose the right time to visit Beau de Provence. If possible, avoid school holidays, summer holidays (July-August in France) and holidays. These days, more than always, the streets of Bo are filled with thousands of tourists - it is not easy to get through to the monuments in such a crowd. However, you can attend one of Bo's holidays: artists' day, castle siege, mass Easter egg hunt, stone day and many others, organized for children and adults.

Like all towns in the Alpine region, Beau suffers from the strong north wind, the Mistral, which blows on average 180 days a year. If you're going to Bo, even on a sunny day, don't forget to take windproof clothing.

Buy a tour to Les Baux de Provence from the company's website. An unforgettable holiday in La Beau de Provence will not leave you indifferent. On our website you can buy a ticket to Les Baux de Provence from a tour operator in one click.

Les Baux de Provence- a small settlement (commune) in the west of Provence, in the Bouches-du-Rhône department. The commune is located on the southern slopes of the small rocky ridge of the Alpille and is a famous tourist attraction. Les Baux-de-Provence is part of the "Most Beautiful Villages of France" association, which provides the settlement with up to 1.5 million guests a year.

Story

The settlement arose near a medieval castle. It was mentioned in 981 as the castrum (fortress) of Baltium, and is now known as the castle of Les Baux - a stronghold of the feudal lords of de Beau. It was preceded by a Roman oppidum (temporary fortification) controlling the local highway. Fortifications on the site of the castle existed back in the 2nd century BC and belonged to the Celts. Limestone was also mined in the valley, and Bronze Age burials were found in the surrounding caves.

The fortress of the Bo family towered above the valley on a rocky hill, and was considered impregnable - it could only be taken by starvation. In the Middle Ages, the house of de Beau was quite powerful and played an important role in the political life of Provence until the region was subjugated to the French crown (which happened in 1481). During the years of the religious wars, the Calvinist teaching spread in Provence, and in 1632, by order of Cardinal Richelieu, their main fortresses in the region were captured and destroyed. Bo Castle was one of them. Since then he has not recovered. In 1904 it was recognized as a historical monument. On its territory there is a museum exhibition, the pride of which is the largest working model of a trebuchet (siege weapon) in Europe.

Attractions

The ruins of the Beau Castle are not the only attraction of Les Baux de Provence. There are monuments of civil and religious architecture: the Basilica of Saint-Blaise (12th century), the chapel of Saint-Estelle, the town hall building, ancient mansions and many other objects of the Middle Ages and subsequent eras. The picturesque commune periodically attracts artists, in particular as a location for filming historical films.

In addition to tourism, winemaking and olive oil production are developing in Les Baux. From Le Beau comes the name of a mineral containing aluminum - boskite. Bosquite deposits were discovered here in 1822 by geologist Pierre Berthier.