The highest altitude in the world. The largest mountain in the world

Evgeny Marushevsky

freelancer, constantly traveling around the world

Many people will confidently point out the tallest mountain in the world. However, what about the second highest mountain after Everest?

Here we present three points of view on which mountain is considered the second.

All mountains are in the Himalayas.




If there is a place in the world worthy of being called the Hall of the Mountain Kings, it is here.

Michael Palin

This is how the famous actor and traveler spoke about Karakorum. It is here that the second highest mountain in the world is located, if you count from sea level - Chogori or K2.

Situated on the border of China and Pakistan, it is located in the state of Kashmir and belongs to the Karakoram mountain range. Its other names: Dapsang, Godwin-Austin.

It is noteworthy that regarding K-2 there was a long debate about which mountain system it belongs to. Since the Himalayas and Karakoram practically consist of one chain of mountains. As a result, a conference of scientists who gathered on this occasion decided to classify Mount Chogori as Karakoram.

The height of the mountain is 8611 meters above sea level. This is only 237 meters lower than Everest. But if the highest mountain in the world could be conquered even by disabled people wearing prosthetics and elderly climbers, then Chogori is one of the most difficult systems for climbers.




Peak name

The second name of Mount Chogori is K2. The letter K stands for Karakoram. Contrary to popular belief, numbering has nothing to do with the height of the peak. This is simply how the European explorer outlined the mountains right in front of him:

  • K1 - Marchebroom,
  • K2 - Chogori,
  • K3 - Broad Peak,
  • K5 - Garshebrum I,
  • K4 - Garshebrum II.

Of all the names, only K2 stuck.

By the way, on Soviet maps until 1960 the mountain was named after Godwin Osten. Further name - Chogori.

Interestingly, the Pakistani government charges climbers about $900 to climb Mount K2.

Chogori - killer mountain

For the first time I encounter a mountain that cannot be climbed from any direction. Everest was a walk compared to K2.

Reinhold Messner

Why was Chogori called the killer mountain? Because it doesn’t allow everyone to its summit. According to statistics, every fourth climber who dares to climb a dangerous mountain does not return home.

To date, Mount Chogori has been climbed only 300 times, of which about 70 attempts were the last for climbers. In terms of the level of danger among the “eight-thousanders,” that is, mountains 8000 m or more high, K2 ranks second after the notorious Annapurna. The summit mortality rate is about 25%.




Why such a high mortality rate?

The characteristics of the human body are such that when climbing to a height of more than 6000 meters, the body goes into survival mode. Sleep and rest, although they will not restore strength, will preserve their remains and serve as energy savings.

If climbing a mountain depended only on a person, then it would still be possible to understand the failed attempts at rock climbing. But at such a high altitude, a lot depends on the speed of the wind, accidental falls into crevasses or frostbite, an avalanche, or simply diseases caused by a lack of oxygen.

At an altitude of more than 6000 m, the oxygen content is less than 1/3 of the permissible value without risk to human health. And the temperature conditions on the mountain are harsh: -50 °C with warm air from Tibet! If it is not there, you have to be content with -60 °C.

The icy surface of the mountain, unpredictable climate, and the most technically difficult terrain for climbers lead to the fact that the mountain takes every fourth daredevil.




A history of ups and downs

The first attempt to conquer Chogori was made in 1902. Six Europeans, led by E. Eckenstein and A. Crowley, risked climbing to a height of 6525 m.

The first expedition was not successful. Stormy weather prevented their plans from coming true. However, thanks to this attempt, it was possible to collect the most important information about the state of the Godwin-Austen glacier, which served as a reliable foundation for a chain of further ascents.

Seven years later, there will be a second attempt to climb the unconquered Chogori by an expedition led by the Duke of Abruzzi. But it will also end unsuccessfully.

Progress began in 1938, when the Americans set a record of 7925 m, and the following year - 8382. The tragic death of members of the expedition, including Dudley Wolf, forced the climbers to turn back.

Victory in the conquest of Chogori

    The first successful ascent became possible only in 1954. Only a quarter of a century after the first attempt. The first climbers to conquer Chogori were Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achile Compagnoni. From Camp 9 they continued their ascent when, just 150 meters from the summit, they ran out of oxygen. Then, no matter what, the Italians continued their journey and were the first to reach K2.

    The first solo climber to conquer Chogori without oxygen was Messner Reingold.

    The first woman to climb K2 was Wanda Rutkiewicz (1986). If we take into account the ascent of Chogori without oxygen cylinders, then the first woman was Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.

    Russian climbers conquered the second highest mountain in the world in 1997. And in 2007, the Russians made an incredibly difficult climb up the western slope of the mountain, which no one had ever climbed before.




The second highest mountain in the world in the ranking of mountain systems

If we compare mountain systems with each other, we get the following table of the highest mountains:

After Everest, which has a height of 8448 m, the second highest mountain that does not belong to the Himalayan mountain range system is Communism Peak in the Pamirs, its height is 7495 m.

Brief history of Ismail Somoni peak

In the USSR it was considered the highest mountain. Location of Peak Communism - Tajikistan. Today the mountain bears the name of Ismail Somoni.

The peak of communism was discovered in 1920 and was mistakenly considered Peak Garmo. However, during the research, inconsistencies in height were found, so the mountain was renamed Stalin Peak.

The first ascent to Stalin Peak (former name) was made by Evgeny Abalakov together with the Pamir expedition. Among female climbers, the first was Lyudmila Agranovskaya.

And in 1986, the first winter ascent of the mountain was made.




The second highest mountain in the world: comparison between continents

The second highest mountain is in South America - Aconcagua. It is also the highest mountain in the southern and western hemispheres.

Aconcagua is located in the Andes mountain range. Its height is 6962 m.

Climbing Mount Aconcagua is not difficult. Most often, climbers climb the northern slope. On other sides of the mountain the climb will be more difficult.

The first person to conquer the six-thousander Aconcagua was an Englishman. His name was Edward Fitzgerald. He climbed the mountain with an expedition in 1897.

Ecology

The highest peaks are at the peak of the highest mountains of the seven continents. Among climbers they are known as " Seven Peaks", which was first conquered by Richard Bass on April 30, 1985.

Here are a few interesting facts about the highest points in all parts of the world.


Highest mountain peaks

The other day the program Google Maps' Street View invited everyone to enjoy the view of the highest peaks in the world, offering interactive galleries of the highest mountains on Earth.

Maps include panoramic view of 4 of the 7 peaks: Everest in the Himalayas of Asia, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Elbrus in Europe and Aconcagua in South America.

You can make a virtual ascent of these peaks without exposing yourself to the dangers of height and natural difficulties that climbers face.

1. The highest peak in the world and Asia - Mount Everest (Qomolangma)

Height of Mount Everest

8848 meters

Geographic coordinates of Mount Everest:

27.9880 degrees north latitude and 86.9252 degrees east longitude (27° 59" 17" N, 86° 55" 31" E)

Where is Mount Everest?

Mount Everest or Chomolungma is highest mountain on earth, which is located in the area Mahalangur Himal in the Himalayas. The international border between China and Nepal runs along its top. The Everest massif includes the neighboring peaks Lhotse (8516 m), Nuptse (7861 m) and Changtse (7543 m).

The highest mountain in the world attracts many experienced climbers and amateurs from all over the world. Although technically there are no major problems in climbing the standard route, the biggest dangers on Everest are considered to be lack of oxygen, disease, weather and wind.

Other facts:

Mount Everest, also called Chomolungma translated from Tibetan as “Divine Mother of Snows” and from Nepali as “Mother of the Universe”. The mountain is considered sacred to local residents. The name Everest was given in honor of the British George Everest, who was the first to measure the height of the world's highest mountain peak.

Mount Everest annually rises by 3-6 mm and shifts to the northeast by 7 cm.

- First ascent of Everest committed by New Zealander Edmund Hilary(Edmund Hillary) and Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay(Tenzing Norgay) as part of the British expedition on May 29, 1953.

The largest expedition to climb Everest consisted of 410 people who were part of the 1975 Chinese team.

- Safest year On Everest it was 1993, when 129 people reached the summit and 8 died. The most tragic year was 1996, when 98 people reached the summit and 15 people died (8 of them died on May 11).

Nepalese Sherpa Appa is the man who has climbed Everest the most times. He set a record by climbing 21 times from 1990 to 2011.

2. The highest peak in South America is Mount Aconcagua

Height of Aconcagua

6,959 meters

Geographic coordinates of Aconcagua

32.6556 degrees south latitude and 70.0158 west longitude (32°39"12.35"S 70°00"39.9"W)

Where is Mount Aconcagua located?

Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas, located in the Andes mountain range in the province Mendoza in Argentina. Also this highest peak in both the western and southern hemispheres.

The mountain is part Aconcagua National Park. It consists of a number of glaciers, the most famous of which is the Polish Glacier in the northeast - a frequent climbing route.

Other facts:

- Name "Aconcagua" probably means from Araucanian "from the other side of the Aconcagua River" or from Quechua "Stone Guardian".

From a mountaineering point of view, Aconcagua is easy mountain to climb, if you head along the northern route, which does not require ropes, pitons and other equipment.

- The first to conquer Aconcagua British Edward Fitzgerald(Edward FitzGerald) in 1897.

The youngest climber to reach the top of Aconcagua was a 10-year-old Matthew Monitz(Matthew Moniz) December 16, 2008. The oldest is 87 years old Scott Lewis(Scott Lewis) in 2007.

3. The highest mountain in North America is Mount McKinley

McKinley Height

6194 meters

Geographic coordinates of McKinley

63.0694 degrees north latitude, 151.0027 degrees west longitude (63° 4" 10" N, 151° 0" 26" W)

Where is Mount McKinley

Mount McKinley is located in Alaska's Denali National Park and is the highest peak in the United States and North America, as well as third most prominent peak in the world after Mount Everest and Aconcagua.

Other facts:

Mount McKinley used to be the highest peak in Russia until Alaska was sold to the United States.

Local residents call it “Denali” (translated from the Athabascan language as “Great”), and the Russians who inhabited Alaska simply call it “Big Mountain”. It was later renamed "McKinley" in honor of US President William McKinley.

- First to conquer McKinley American climbers led by Hudson Stack(Hudson Stuck) and Harry Carstens(Harry Karstens) June 7, 1913.

Best Climbing period: from May to July. Due to the far northern latitude, there is lower atmospheric pressure and less oxygen at the summit than other high mountains in the world.

4. The highest peak in Africa is Mount Kilimanjaro

Height of Kilimanjaro

5895 meters

Geographic coordinates of Kilimanjaro

Latitude 3.066 degrees south and longitude 37.3591 degrees east (3° 4" 0" S, 37° 21" 33" E)

Where is Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa and is located in Kilimanjaro National Park in Tanzania. This volcano consists of three volcanic cones: Kiba, Mawenzi and Shira. Kilimanjaro is a huge stratovolcano that began to form a million years ago when lava erupted in the Rift Valley region.

Two peaks, Mawenzi and Shira, are extinct volcanoes, while the highest, Kibo, is sleeping volcano, which may erupt again. The last major eruption occurred 360,000 years ago, but activity was recorded only 200 years ago.

Other facts:

There are several versions explaining Origin of Kilimanjaro. One theory is that the name comes from the Swahili word "Kilima" ("mountain") and the Kichagga word "Njaro" ("whiteness"). According to another version, Kilimanjaro is a European origin of the phrase kichagga, which means "we did not climb it."

Since 1912, Kilimanjaro has lost more than 85 percent of its snow. According to scientists in 20 years all the snow on Kilimanjaro will melt.

- First ascent was committed by a German explorer Hans Meyer(Hans Meyer) and the Austrian climber Ludwig Purtscheller(Ludwig Purtscheller) on the third attempt on October 6, 1889

- About 40,000 people They try to conquer Mount Kilimanjaro every year.

The youngest climber to climb Kilimanjaro is a 7-year-old Keats Boyd(Keats Boyd), who climbed on January 21, 2008.

5. The highest peak in Europe (and Russia) is Mount Elbrus

Height of Mount Elbrus

5642 meters

Geographic coordinates of Mount Elbrus

43.3550 degrees north latitude, 42.4392 east longitude (43° 21" 11" N, 42° 26" 13" E)

Where is Mount Elbrus located?

Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano located in the western Caucasus Mountains on the border of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia in Russia. The summit of Elbrus is highest in Russia, Europe and western Asia. The western peak reaches 5642 m, and the eastern peak 5621 m.

Other facts:

- Name "Elbrus" comes from the Iranian word "Albors", which means "high mountain". It is also called Ming tau ("eternal mountain"), Yalbuz ("mane of snow") and Oshkhamakho ("mountain of happiness")

Elbrus is covered by a permanent ice sheet that supports 22 glaciers, which in turn feed the Baksan, Kuban and Malka rivers.

Elbrus located in a mobile tectonic region, and deep under the extinct volcano there is molten magma.

- First ascent the eastern peak of Elbrus was reached on July 10, 1829 Hilar Kachirov, who was part of the expedition of Russian General G.A. Emmanuel, and to the western (which is about 40 m higher) - in 1874 by an English expedition led by F. Crawford Grove(F. Crawford Grove).

From 1959 to 1976 it was built here cable car, which takes visitors to a height of 3750 meters.

Per year on Elbrus about 15-30 people die mainly due to poorly organized attempts to reach the summit

In 1997, an SUV Land Rover Defender climbed to the top of Elbrus, setting a Guinness world record.

6. The highest peak of Antarctica - Vinson Massif

Height of Vinson Massif

4892 meters

Geographic coordinates of the Vinson Massif

78.5254 degrees south latitude and 85.6171 degrees west longitude (78° 31" 31.74" S, 85° 37" 1.73" W)

Vinson Massif on the map

Vinson Massif is the highest mountain in Antarctica, which is located on the Sentinel Range in the Ellsworth Mountains. The massif is approximately 21 km long and 13 km wide and is located 1200 km from the South Pole.

Other facts

The highest peak is Vinson Peak, named after Carla Vinson- Member of the US Congress. The Vinson Massif was first discovered in 1958, and first ascent was committed in 1966.

In 2001, the first expedition reached the summit via the Eastern Route and measurements of the summit's height were made using GPS.

More 1400 people tried to conquer Vinson Peak.

7. The highest peak of Australia and Oceania is Mount Puncak Jaya

Height of Puncak Jaya

4884 meters

Geographic coordinates of Puncak Jaya

4.0833 degrees south latitude 137.183 degrees east longitude (4° 5" 0" S, 137° 11" 0" E)

Where is Puncak Jaya

Puncak Jaya or Carstens Pyramid is the highest peak of Mount Carstens in western Papua province in Indonesia.

This mountain is highest in Indonesia, on the island of New Guinea, in Oceania (on the Australian plate), highest mountain on the island, and the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes.

Mount Kosciuszko is considered the highest peak on the Australian continent., whose height is 2228 meters.

Other facts:

When Indonesia began administering the province in 1963, the peak was renamed Sukarno Peak in honor of the Indonesian president. Later it was renamed Puncak Jaya. The word "Puncak" means "mountain or peak" in Indonesian, and "Jaya" means "victory".

The top of Puncak Jaya conquered for the first time in 1962, Austrian climbers led Heinrich Garrer(Heinrich Harrer) and three other members of the expedition.

Access to the summit requires government permission. The mountain was closed to tourists and climbers from 1995 to 2005. Since 2006, access has been possible through various travel agencies.

Puncak Jaya is considered one of the most difficult climbs. It has the highest technical rating, but does not have the greatest physical requirements.

When asked what the highest point in the world is, almost every high school student will confidently answer that it is. Other common names for the peak are Chomolungma and Sagarmatha. The peak lies at an altitude of 8848 meters above sea level. This indicator is recorded in numerous scientific papers and textbooks.

Location

The highest point in the world on the map is located on the border of countries such as Nepal and China. The peak belongs to the Greater Himalayas mountain range. At the same time, it should be noted that based on the data that is constantly provided by instruments at the peak, as well as with the help of satellites, researchers have proven that Everest, in the literal sense of the word, does not stand still. The fact is that the mountain changes its shape all the time, moving to the northeast from India towards China. According to scientists, the reason for this lies in the fact that they are constantly moving and crawling onto one another.

Opening

The highest point in the world was discovered in 1832. Then an expedition consisting of employees of the British Geodetic Service was engaged in the study of some peaks that were located on Indian territory in the Himalayas. While carrying out the work, English scientists noted that one of the peaks (which had previously been marked everywhere as “Peak 15”) was higher than the other mountains that make up the ridge. This observation was documented, after which the peak began to be called Everest - in honor of the head of the geodetic service.

Importance to local residents

The fact that the world is Everest was assumed by local residents several centuries before its official discovery by European explorers. They respected the peak very much and named it Chomolungma, which literally translated from the local language means “goddess - mother of the Earth.” As for Nepal, here it is known as Sagarmatha (heavenly peak). Residents of areas located nearby the mountain say that on this peak, death and life are separated by half a step, and people from all directions of the world are equal before God, regardless of their religion. During the Middle Ages, a monastery called Ronkbuk was built at the foot of Everest. The structure has survived to this day and is still inhabited.

Other opinions about height

In 1954, a number of studies and measurements of the peak were carried out using various instruments and aerial photography. Based on their results, it was officially established that the highest point in the world has a height of 8848 meters. It should be noted that, compared to our time, the technology used then was not so accurate. This gave some scientists reason to claim that the real height of Chomolungma differs from the official value.

In particular, at the end of 1999 in Washington, as part of a meeting of the National Geographic Society, a proposal was put forward to consider that Everest lies above sea level at an altitude of 8850 meters, in other words, two meters higher. Members of the organization supported this idea. This event was preceded by the research of several expeditions led by a famous American scientist named Branford Washburn. First, he and his people delivered high-precision electronic equipment to the summit. Subsequently, this allowed the researcher, using a satellite, to record the slightest deviations in the height of the mountain (compared to previous data). Thus, the scientist was able to clearly show the growth dynamics of Chomolungma. Moreover, Washbourne identified the periods of the most significant increase in peak height.

Everest's growth process

The Himalayas are considered one of the most recent geological belts that formed on our planet. In this regard, the process of their development is quite active (compared to others). It's no surprise that the world's highest point continues to rise. As studies show, growth becomes most intense during times of high seismic activity not only on the Eurasian continent itself, but throughout the entire planet. For example, during the first half of 1999 alone, the height of the mountain increased by three centimeters. Several years ago, a geologist from Italy A. Desio, using modern radio equipment, established that the peak of Chomolungma is now at 8872.5 meters above sea level, which is 25 meters higher than the officially recorded value.

The largest mountain on Earth

There is no doubt that the highest point in the world is Everest. At the same time, calling it the largest mountain on the planet would not be entirely correct. The fact is that, judging by such an indicator as the total height, then the largest mountain should be called Mauna Kea, located not far from Hawaii. The peak rises above sea level only 4206 meters. At the same time, its base lies at a depth of more than ten thousand meters under water. Thus, the total size of Mauna Kea is almost twice that of Everest.

Other highest points on the planet

Be that as it may, each of the continents has the most prominent peak. The names of the highest mountains in the world by continent are as follows. The highest peak in South America and the second highest on the planet after Everest is Aconcagua Peak (6959 meters), which is part of the Andes and is located in Argentina. Mount McKinley (6194 meters) is located in the American state of Alaska and closes the top three world leaders in this indicator. In Europe, Elbrus (5642 meters) is considered the highest, and in Africa - Kilimanjaro (5895 meters). Antarctica also has its own record holder. The highest mountain here is Vinson (4892 meters).

For most people living in the concrete jungle, the idea of ​​spending a couple of days in the mountains seems like the perfect vacation solution. It is worth considering that the mountains suitable for such a holiday are slightly different from those presented in this list. The highest mountain peaks offer fairly harsh conditions. Interestingly, almost all of these peaks are located in the Himalayas. There are practically no traces of civilization here, the conditions in these mountains are so harsh. Nevertheless, expeditions are constantly sent there, the most courageous people decide to climb these high peaks. Even if you don't plan to do the same, you should still check out the list of these mountains.

Nuptse, Mahalangur Himal

The name of this mountain means “western peak” in Tibetan. Nuptse is located on the Mahalangur Himal range and is one of the mountains surrounding Everest. It was first conquered in 1961 by Dennis Davis and Tashi Sherpa. This peak is the twentieth highest in the entire world and opens this impressive list.

Distagil Sar, Karakorum

This point is located among the Karakoram ranges in Pakistan. Distagil Sar rises to 7884 meters in height and extends three kilometers in width. In 1960, the peak was conquered by Günter Sterker and Dieter Marhar, who were representatives of the Austrian expedition. In this region, this mountain is the highest, and in the list it was in nineteenth place.

Himalchuli, Himalayas

This peak is part of the Himalayas in Nepal and is located near an even higher peak. With an altitude of 7894 m, Himalchuli can be called the second largest in this mountain range. The summit was first reached in 1960 by Japanese Hisashi Tanabe. Since then, few have dared to repeat his impressive achievement.

Gasherbrum IV, Karakorum

This is one of the peaks of the Gasherbrum range located in Pakistan. It is part of the northeastern edge of the Baltoro Glacier, which belongs to the Karakoram. The name means "shining wall" in Urdu. The other three peaks of Gasherbrum exceed eight thousand meters, and this one rises to approximately 7932 meters.

Annapurna II, Annapurna Massif

These peaks are part of a single massif that makes up the main part of the Himalayas. This peak rises to 7934 meters and is located in the east of the Annapurna massif. It was first conquered by Richard Grant, Chris Bonington and Ang Nima Sherpa in 1960. Since then, we have climbed to the top only a few times, the conditions here are so harsh.

Gyachung Kang, Mahalangur Himal

This mountain is located between the two highest points in the world, exceeding eight thousand meters. It is part of the Mahalangur Himal range that straddles the Nepal-China border. The mountain was first conquered in 1964 by a Japanese expedition. Among the mountains below eight thousand meters, this is the largest, its height is 7952 meters.

Shishabangma, central Himalayas

All the mountains described below exceed a height of eight thousand meters! Shishabangma is the lowest of them all, but that doesn't mean it's easy to conquer. It is located between China and Tibet, in a limited area where foreigners are not allowed. This is due to security reasons. In the Tibetan dialect, the name means "ridge above the grassy plains."

Gasherbrum II, Karakorum

As mentioned above, Gasherbrum is part of the Karakoram. This is a peak with a height of 8035 meters, which was conquered by Austrian climbers in 1956. This peak is also known as K4, which denotes that it is the fourth in the Karakoram chain.

Broad Peak, Karakoram

This 8051 meter high mountain is quite popular among climbers. It belongs to the Baltoro glacier and ranks twelfth on the list of the highest. The slopes have extremely harsh conditions, making climbing up almost impossible for most of the year. It is not surprising that there are few climbers who have conquered this peak.

Gasherbrum I, Karakoram

Another name for this mountain is Hidden Peak. This is because this is a place extremely remote from civilization and difficult to reach. The peak, 8080 meters high, was conquered for the first time in 1956, when Americans Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman climbed here.

Annapurna I, Annapurna Massif

Tenth place on the list! The further you go, the more impressive the scale of the mountains becomes and the fewer people have conquered them. The main peak of the Annapurna massif is the tenth largest in the world and rises to 8091 meters. The name means "full of food" in Sanskrit.

Nanga Parbat, Himalayas

This is the ninth largest peak, rising to 8126 meters. The mountain is located in Pakistan and is known as the “killer peak” because Nanga Parbat is associated with the largest number of unsuccessful attempts to climb. It has never been possible to climb the peak in winter: harsh weather conditions with strong winds make the task simply impossible.

Manaslu, Himalayas

The name translated from Sanskrit means “intelligence” or “soul”. This is a peak located in the Himalayas very close to Annapurna. This is a peak with a height of 8163 meters. This area is considered a protected area and is protected for environmental reasons.

Dhaulagiri I, Dhaulagiri Massif

These mountains extend one hundred kilometers from the Kalingandaki River to the Bheri River. One of the peaks of this massif rises to 8167 meters and ranks seventh in size in the world. The highest point is named in Sanskrit, the word “dhaula” means “shining” and “giri” means “mountain”.

Cho Oyu, Mahalangur Himal

The name translated from Tibetan means “turquoise goddesses”. This is a peak with a height of 8201 meters, which is the highest in this range and is located twenty kilometers west of Everest. Thanks to its moderate slopes and close passes, this mountain is considered the easiest option for climbing eight thousand meters. However, it is worth considering that this lightness is only in comparison with other peaks of this size. An unprepared traveler still cannot make such an ascent.

Makalu, Mahalangur Himal

This is the fifth place on the list - a mountain with a height of 8485 meters! Mahalu Peak is part of the Mahalangur Himal range and is located a little further away. Its shape resembles a pyramid with four sides. The summit was first conquered in 1955 by the French.

Lhotse, Mahalangur Himal

The name means “southern peak” in Tibetan. This is the second largest mountain in the massif, rising to 8516 meters. It was first conquered in 1956 by Swiss climbers Ernest Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger.

Kangchenyunga, Himalayas

Until 1852, this peak was considered the highest in the world. Its height is 8586 meters. This is a peak located in India. This mountain range is called the “five snowy peaks” and is worshiped by some Indians. In addition, this place attracts tourists.

K2, Karakoram

Baltistan, a region of Pakistan, is home to the highest point of the Karakoram called K2. This 8611 meter high mountain is known for its harsh conditions, making it incredibly difficult to climb to the top. Few succeeded, and there was no successful ascent at all in winter.

Everest, Mahalangur Himal

So, here is the leader of the list - Mount Everest, also known as Chomolungma. It was discovered in 1802 and conquered in 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Since then, thousands of expeditions have been here, but not all of them ended in success. After all, it is a peak of 8848 meters high! Climbing Everest requires serious preparation and considerable financial investments, because without special equipment and oxygen cylinders it is simply impossible to carry out this most difficult task.

The program of climbing the highest peaks of all continents has an abbreviated name, which can also be called a brand - “Seven Summits”. In English, which is understandable to the whole world - “Seven Summits”. This is one of the mountaineering collections, the implementation of which is an incentive to determine goals in life for hundreds of citizens of different countries. The vast majority of those who climb Everest, one way or another, make it their goal to complete this program. Because other peaks are easier and cheaper than reaching the highest point on Earth. It is very prestigious to become the first “seven-peaker” in your country, in your state, to become the first woman in the country, the oldest, youngest, fastest.

Climbing all seven peaks is very expensive. Even the most economical option will total close to 100 thousand dollars, not including the cost of equipment and preparation for expeditions. In reality, the optimal cost of the entire program is around 150 thousand dollars.

It is clear that such expenses are available only to very few climbers. If we are talking about personal funds. However, a minority of those who hunt for the “Seven Peaks” spend their own money exclusively. Most are supported by sponsors, governments, or travel on charitable fundraising programs. The legislation of, relatively speaking, “Anglo-Saxon” countries allows donations for the needs of a number of organizations to be deducted from the tax base. These are medical institutions, funds for helping veterans of military conflicts, the disabled, etc... By collecting donations for them, the climber “unfastens” a little for his travels. At the same time, more money is printed in these countries than in others, this leads to the fact that half of the list of “seven peaks” are citizens of the USA, Great Britain and Canada and Australia, which joined them.

The Seven Summits program was born in the first half of the 80s, when the first signs appeared that this could be done. The entire history of its occurrence is described in our article.

Let us recall that, according to encyclopedias: “continent” (from seasoned - strong, large), this is the Russian analogue of the European word “continent” (from Latin continens - singular). Continents are large tracts of the earth's crust, most of the surface of which protrudes above the level of the World Ocean in the form of land. Islands do not belong to continents and continents.

From a scientific point of view, the objects of the Seven Summits program are highly controversial. Firstly, the prevailing opinion among scientists is that Eurasia is one continent and its division into Europe and Asia is cultural, but not geographical. We are actively against this. If Elbrus is deprived of its status as the highest peak of the continent, the number of foreign climbers will decrease significantly. Although the status of the highest point in Europe for the Caucasian peak is very controversial. From the point of view of Soviet geographers, the border of the parts of the world runs along the Kuma-Manych depression, while Elbrus goes to Asia. There is even greater diversity of views on whether the Carstensz Pyramid should be considered the highest point in Australia. According to any scientific theory, the western part of the island of New Guinea does not belong to the “Green Continent”. These are all amusing debates and arguments that so far have practically nothing to do with practical life.

So, the 7 highest peaks of the continents are:

  1. Everest (Chomolungma or Chomolungma), 8848 m. Asia.
  2. Aconcagua, 6962 m. South America.
  3. Denali (old name - McKinley), 6194 m. North America.
  4. Kilimanjaro, 5895 m. Africa.
  5. Elbrus, 5642 m. Europe.
  6. Vinson Massif, 4897 m. Antarctica.
  7. Pyramid Carstensz (Puncak Jaya), 4884 m. Australia. Peak Kosciuszko (Kostyushko), 2228 m. Australia.

So, scientific debate on this topic is best left to those who are paid to do it. We love the magical (divine, as they say) number “Seven”, not “Six” (considered devilish). It doesn’t matter that there are eight vertices! And based on this we build our story. So, what mountains are included in the list of the highest peaks of the continents?

Everest (8848 m) - highest peak in Asia, continent of Eurasia and the highest peak of planet Earth (if you count from ocean level), also the highest in the Northern Hemisphere of our planet. The mountain is located on the border of Nepal and Tibet (China). Numerous height measurements showed different results even with modern techniques. Therefore, the indicated height is conditional; it was adopted as a result of agreement, so as not to inflame passions.

Climbing Everest requires careful preparation, about two months of living in expedition conditions and overcoming the problems associated with being in the so-called “death zone”, at an altitude above 8000 meters. However, in modern conditions it can be stated that with the right organization and a sufficient degree of luck, every physically healthy person can climb Everest. Recently, ascents have been made mainly in the spring, during the so-called weather windows. This usually happens on the 20th of May. In this case, the routes from the south and from the north are first completely hung with railing ropes.

Climbing Everest, which 30-40 years ago meant joining the mountaineering elite, has become a commercial endeavor. Sports expeditions have become a rarity; most of the routes (all but two) are not repeated. The 7 Summits Club prefers to conduct expeditions from the North side. Here the permit is much cheaper, access by car to the base camp is possible and there are much fewer objective dangers (ice collapses and avalanches). Western firms prefer the southern route. First of all, fearing the unpredictability of the Chinese authorities, who may close the area for minor reasons, without any compensation to the organizers. Individual participants may not be given a visa for political reasons. But there is another point: in the South, with a higher price, the organizers’ profits are much higher than in the North.

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Aconcagua (6962 m) is the highest peak in the world of America and the continent of South America, also the main one in the southern hemisphere of the planet. The mountain is located in Argentina, a large and colorful country. The ascent to Aconcagua is a real high-altitude ascent, which is carried out, so to speak, under the conditions of a lightweight expedition (the duration of the trip is only 20 days). Separate cargo transportation at the bottom of the route makes the ascent easier, as do certain amenities at base camp. There are no technical difficulties on the classic route, however, there are plenty of physical ones. First of all, this is height, the reaction to which is often unpredictable even among experienced athletes. The main obstacle is considered to be strong winds, which are associated with the openness of the territory to air masses from the oceans.

Every year, about 3,000 climbers attempt to climb Aconcagua. They climb two gorges from two base camps. However, the routes at the top are the same. About half of the participants achieve success. This is due to the lack of preparedness of the climbers. And partly with the attitude of local guides, who are not risk-averse and, at any opportunity, are ready to turn the whole group or individual participants around. So we strongly recommend joining a group led by visiting, Russian-speaking guides. Better - from our company...

Climbing programs on Aconcagua are becoming more expensive from year to year due to the policies of local authorities. So don't delay.

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Denali (6194 m) - the highest peak of mainland North America. Located in the USA, in the state of Alaska, near the Arctic Circle. A typical climb takes approximately three weeks, of which two weeks are strenuous work in the glacier zone, in conditions close to extreme. Participants are required to use purely mountaineering skills to a greater extent than on other peaks of the “seven”. In this case, all cargo must be carried independently, including recycled waste. And when organizing a trip to Denali, you will have to solve the puzzle of obtaining an official permit and an American visa. All this is not at all difficult if you start in time.

In recent years, the number of climbers aiming to climb Denali has stabilized at around 1,500 per year. A season is considered successful when the percentage of “climbing” is above 50%. The bulk of ascents take place in June - the first half of July. In mid-summer, due to the condition of the glacier, airplane flights become dangerous and cease by the beginning of August.

The American authorities issue permission to organize commercial programs only to a few companies and only with American “registration”. For us, this means the need to use American guides under an agreement with one of the local companies. Let's face it, agreeing on all the details of interaction with them was not a smooth process. The difference in the mentality of our two mountaineering schools is quite significant, but now mutual understanding has already been achieved and the problems are a thing of the past.

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Kilimanjaro (5895 m) is the highest peak of the continent and part of the world Africa. The mountain is located in Tanzania, close to the Kenyan border and the equator. It is considered the highest single peak in the world. The local National Park strictly regulates climbing and allocates a limited number of days, on average a week, for expeditions. In this case, one of the goals is to ensure maximum employment for the local population working in group services. Therefore, for one climber there are two or even more employees of host companies.

Mount Kilimanjaro is located in the equatorial climate zone. The difference in temperature between seasons is minimal. Almost ascents can be made all year round

Due to the limited time, the ascent is carried out without sufficient acclimatization, which complicates the task of reaching the top for an unprepared person. And these turn out to be the absolute majority. Therefore, no more than one third of visitors manage to climb to the highest point. At the same time, almost all of our country’s representatives reach the top. What is at play here: the power of salt or greed (money has been paid)?

In any case, a trip to Kilimanjaro is an exciting adventure; getting to know the amazing nature of Africa and its people is simply amazing. This is the best way to love the “dark continent”, which many are wary of. And, of course, we consider it obligatory to include so-called “safari” excursions in national parks in the program.

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Elbrus (5642 m) is the highest peak in Europe. The mountain is located in Russia, slightly north of the Main Caucasus Range and, accordingly, from the border with Georgia. Climbing in favorable conditions requires only basic mountaineering skills and is accessible to all physically healthy people. However, the load will still be serious, and the effect of the height will make itself felt. The recommended period for the Elbrus climbing program is 9 days.

There is a fairly developed infrastructure that provides relatively comfortable living conditions on all days except the day of ascent.

Elbrus is still a territory of freedom. In this regard, only Kosciuszko can compare with him. Attempts to introduce payments do not meet with understanding from the majority of climbers.

There are no general statistics kept on Elbrus. An approximate estimate of the number of climbers is 25-30 thousand per year. The vast majority rises in July and August.

Programs of the 7 Summits Club on Elbrus

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Vinson Massif (4897 m) is the highest peak in the world and the continent of Antarctica. The mountain is located on an amazing ice continent that so far belongs to all of humanity. However, in the area of ​​the very top, the absolute owner is the ALE (Antarctic Logistic Expedition) company, which determines the “rules of the game” here. But they are not able to make even the simplest calculations of how long the ascent will last; the actual “flight” schedule is dictated by unpredictable weather.

Since the price of an expedition to the Vinson Massif is very significant, only serious people get to its foot. And, as a rule, they successfully ascend, overcoming the terrible cold and wind.

It is important to dress correctly. But this is also checked.

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And the highest point of the part of the world and the continent of Australia, coupled with the colossal Oceania, is represented by two options: the Carstensz Pyramid and Mount Kosciuszko.

The Carstensz Pyramid, also known in Indonesian terms as Puncak Jaya (4884-5 m, on some maps even 5030 m) is the highest peak in Australia and Oceania. Located on the island of New Guinea. The most politically problematic mountain of the “Seven Summits”, which until then had been simply closed to visitors for 10 years. It is a rocky ridge of considerable length, located above the humid tropical jungle. Ascent and descent require skills in working with climbing equipment and rope. However, as part of a group and under the guidance of experienced instructors, overcoming difficult rocky areas is quite possible for anyone.

For quite a long time, there has also been a helicopter option, in which one flies to the base camp in a rotorcraft. However, there are pitfalls here too. Bad weather is a daily occurrence here, every flight is in danger of being disrupted.