Tien Shan mountains. Heavenly mountains of the Tien Shan The highest height of the Tien Shan mountains
Petr Petrovich Semenov - Russian geographer, botanist, statistician. In 1849 he graduated from St. Petersburg University and became a member of the Russian Geographical Society. In 1853, Semenov went abroad and attended lectures at the University of Berlin for three years. The idea of the Tien Shan expedition arose in him on the eve of his trip to Europe. Semenov himself wrote about this in his memoirs: “My work on Asian geography led me... to a thorough acquaintance with everything that was known about inner Asia. I was especially attracted to the most central of the Asian mountain ranges - the Tien Shan, which had not yet been touched by a European traveler and which was known only from meager Chinese sources... To penetrate deep into Asia to the snowy peaks of this unattainable ridge, which the great Humboldt, based on the same meager Chinese information, I considered it volcanic, and to bring him several samples from the fragments of rocks of this ridge, and home - a rich collection of flora and fauna of a country newly discovered for science - that was what seemed the most tempting feat for me.”
Pyotr Semenov began to carefully and comprehensively prepare for the trip to the Tien Shan. In 1853 and 1854 he visited the Alps and made numerous excursions in the mountains there on foot, without a guide, with a compass, doing geological and botanical research. He also visited Vesuvius, making about two dozen ascents on it. Returning to Russia in 1856, Semenov received consent from the Council of the Geographical Society to equip him for the expedition. At a time when Semenov was already preparing for the long journey, at the foot of the Trans-Ili Alatau - one of the northern ranges of the Tien Shan - the Russians founded the fortification of Vernoye (now the city of Almaty).
At the beginning of May 1856, Pyotr Semenov set off on his journey. “...I traveled by rail to Moscow and further to Nizhny along the highway, bought a Kazan-made tarantass there and rode by mail along the great Siberian highway...” he told about the beginning of the journey in his memoirs. The route ran through Barnaul, Semipalatinsk, Kopal to the Vernoye fortification - to the foot of the Trans-Ili Alatau.
2 Lake Issyk-Kul
The study of the Tien Shan began with a visit to Issyk-Kul. With great difficulty, the traveler reached the then deserted shores of this mountain lake, covered only with groves of small trees and tall bushes. “Only occasionally,” he wrote, “from such groves do the felt yurts of Kyrgyz shepherds appear white and the long neck of a Bactrian camel is exposed, and even more rarely, from the vast forest of dense reeds bordering the grove, a large herd of wild boars or the formidable ruler of these reed thickets—a bloodthirsty tiger—jumps out.”
Issyk-Kul is a huge lake, one of the deepest in Europe and Asia. About 80 mountain rivers flowing into Issyk-Kul, originating in the Tien Shan mountains, but not a single river flows out of it. At the time of Semenov’s travels, information about Issyk-Kul was insignificant. Geographers believed, for example, that it was from this lake that one of the large Central Asian rivers, the Chu River, began. Semenov's two trips to Issyk-Kul, especially the second, when he visited its western tip, were marked by great scientific results. Having passed through the narrow Boom Gorge, through which the Chu noisily carries its waters, Semenov reached the Issyk-Kul coast. Here he conducted a series of geological and geographical observations and for the first time established that the Chu begins not from the lake, but in one of the mountain valleys of the Tien Shan. In his letter sent to the Russian Geographical Society, Semenov wrote: “My second big trip to the Chu River exceeded my expectations with its success: I not only managed to cross the Chu, but even reached Issyk-Kul this way, i.e. its western an extremity on which no European has yet set foot and which no scientific research has touched.”
Semenov’s observations established that the Chu, before reaching Issyk-Kul, sharply turns in the opposite direction from the lake, crashing into the mountains rising on the western side of Issyk-Kul and, finally, bursting into the Boom Gorge.
3 First ascent of the Tien Shan
The following year, 1857, Semenov went to the mountains. His companion was the artist Kosharov, an art teacher at the Tomsk gymnasium. Having left Verny, the travelers reached the southern shore of Issyk-Kul, and from there, through the anciently famous Zaukinsky Pass, they penetrated to the upper reaches of the Syr Darya, which had not yet been reached by anyone before them.
Having passed through the forest zone of the Tien Shan, Semenov left the detachment accompanying him with packs and camels at the last fir trees and continued climbing, accompanied by Kosharov and several companions. “At last we reached the top of the pass, which presented me with an unexpected sight; the mountain giants were no longer in front of me, and in front of me lay an undulating plain, from which snow-covered peaks rose in relatively low hills. Between them were green lakes, only partially covered with ice, and where there was no ice, flocks of beautiful scoters swam on them. The hypsometric measurement gave me 3,380 meters for the absolute height of the Zaukinsky Pass. I felt a noise in my ears, and it seemed to me that they would immediately bleed.”
The travelers continued south along the rolling highlands. In front of them lay a vast syrt plateau, on which were scattered small semi-frozen lakes, located between relatively low mountains, but covered on the tops with snow, and on the slopes with the luxurious greenery of alpine meadows. Luxurious meadows with large, bright flowers of blue and yellow gentians, lavender bathworts, white and yellow buttercups covered all the hillsides. But most beautiful of all were the vast fields, completely overgrown with the golden heads of a special, previously undescribed type of onion, which later received the name Semenov’s onion from botanists.
From the top of one of the mountains, travelers saw the upper reaches of the Naryn tributaries flowing from the Syrt lakes. Thus, for the first time, the sources of the vast river system of Jaxartes were reached by a European traveler. From here the expedition moved back.
4 Second ascent of the Tien Shan
Soon Semenov made a second, even more successful ascent of the Tien Shan. This time the expedition route went in a more eastern direction. Having climbed the Karkara River, a significant tributary of the Ili River, then along Kok-Dzhar, one of the upper rivers of Karkara, the traveler climbed a pass of about 3,400 meters, separating Kok-Jar from Sary-Dzhas.
“When we got ... to the top of the mountain pass,” wrote Semenov, “we were blinded by an unexpected sight. Directly south of us rose the most majestic mountain range I had ever seen. It all, from top to bottom, consisted of snow giants, of which I could count at least thirty to the right and left of me. This entire ridge, together with all the spaces between the mountain peaks, was covered with an unbroken veil of eternal snow. Just in the middle of these giants stood one, sharply separated by its colossal height, a snow-white, pointed pyramid, which seemed from the height of the pass to be twice as high as the other peaks.”
This is how the Khan Tengri peak was discovered, which until recently was considered the highest in the Tien Shan. Having visited the sources of Sary-Dzhas, Semnov discovered the vast glaciers of the northern slope of Khan Tengri, from which Sary-Dzhas originates. One of these glaciers was subsequently named after Semenov.
In the upper reaches of the Sary-Jaz, Semenov made another interesting discovery. He was the first researcher to see with his own eyes the huge mountain sheep of the Tien Shan - the kochkar - an animal that zoologists considered completely extinct.
On the way back to the foot of the Tien Shan, Semenov took a different road, following the valley of the Tekesa River. That same summer he explored the Trans-Ili Alatau, visited the Katu area in the Ili Plain, the Dzhungar Alatau and Lake Ala-Kul. The completion of the expeditions of 1856 - 1857 Semenov visited two mountain passes of Tarbagatai.
By imperial decree on November 23, 1906, for his services in the first exploration of the Tien Shan, the prefix “Tian-Shansky” was added to his surname “with descending descendants.”
Tien Shan- majestic mountains in the heart of Central Asia. People come here to lose their minds at the beauty of the landscapes, leave a piece of their soul in the deep gorges and lose peace forever, falling in love with the dense pine forests and crystal lakes.
Tien Shan mountain system spreads from east to west across the territory, and. The northern part of the Tien Shan, marked by the Ketmen, Trans-Ili Alatau, Kungey-Ala-Too and Kyrgyz ridges, stretches from China through the territory of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Most areas are easy to reach either from Almaty(Kazakhstan) or Bishkek(Kyrgyzstan). Eastern, including the Borokhoro, Iren-Khabyrga, Bogdo-Ula, Karlyktag Halyktau, Sarmin-Ula, Kuruktag ridges - is almost entirely located in Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) China. The Western Tien Shan ranges - Karatau, Talas Ala-Too, Chatkal, Pskem and Ugam begin in Kyrgyzstan and end in the Tashkent region of Uzbekistan. This popular tourist destination is accessible from both Kyrgyzstan, so from the capital of Uzbekistan - Tashkent. The southern and southwestern border of the Tien Shan - the Fergana Range - frames the Fergana Valley. Pearl of Kyrgyzstan - internal (Central) Tien Shan- surrounded from the north by the Kyrgyz ridge, from the south by Kakshaal-Too, from the west by the Fergana ridge, and from the east by the Akshiyrak massif. Located here Lake Issyk-Kul attracts guests from all over the world. It is easily accessible by car, bus, train and even plane.
The Tien Shan is one of the highest mountains on the planet - more than thirty peaks here exceed the six-kilometer mark. It is no coincidence that the name of these mountains is translated as “heavenly” or “divine” mountains.
An extensive chain of foothills, gentle slopes and picturesque valleys and lakes have made these mountains attractive both for living and for recreation. And thanks to trails of varying complexity and configuration, and developed infrastructure, these mountains have become a magnet for active tourism. There are routes for both light and heavy. environmental and ski tourism in winter, have an interesting holiday on the shores of lakes in summer, as well as architectural monuments for lovers ethnographic tourism.
Mountains
Climbers and athletes aim to - the highest point of the Tien Shan and the northernmost seven-thousander of the planet - and its rival - one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth. Besides them, there are still unconquered peaks in the Tien Shan, especially in its Chinese part.
Pobeda Peak(7439 m) on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China remained unmeasured and unstudied for a long time due to the fact that it was covered on all sides by mountain ranges. The height was accurately determined only in 1943. Because of the flattened and stretched peak, the mountain seems calm, but in reality, strong winds blow under the clouds, fog falls from above, and avalanches often occur. There is an opinion that Pobeda Peak is one of the most difficult seven-thousanders. Climbing this mountain requires good physical shape, equipment, but most importantly - endurance and courage. At the same time, more than a dozen athletes managed to get here, which means that Victory still goes to the brave and persistent.
known since time immemorial. The upward-looking regular pyramid with a height of 6995 meters is clearly visible from all over the area. In ancient times, it was believed that a deity, Tengri, lived at the top. Hence the name. There is one more thing - Kan-Too or "bloody mountain". At sunset, Khan Tengri turns bright red; the snow cap continues to remain crimson even when the neighboring mountains have plunged into twilight. The Khan Tengri rock contains pink marble - which is why it seems that bloody sunset rivers, sparkling and shimmering, flow down the slope.
The proximity of the state borders of Kazakhstan and China has long made the geographical affiliation of Khan Tengri controversial. As a result, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China agreed that vertex- common property of the three states.
Athletes have been successfully climbing this six-thousander since the mid-30s of the 20th century. The classic route runs along the western edge. The weather here is unstable, severe frosts can suddenly strike, and wind can blow in, so a trip to Khan Tengri can become a strong test of strength. This only irritates climbers. There is another reason for the popularity of Khan Tengri. Geographically, when viewed from the north, the location of Khan Tengri (6995 m) and its western bridge (5900 m) to Chapaev Peak (6371 m), although two hundred meters lower, is still very similar to giants Himalayas: Everest(8848 m), its South Col(7900 m) and neighboring Lhotse Peak(8516 m), also called K2. Therefore, they also go to Kyrgyzstan to practice the Himalayan “classics”.
Those who are not confident in their form can try their hand at trekking to base camp on South Inylchek glacier. From here you can enjoy stunning views of the high-mountainous Tien Shan. By the way, Southern Inylchek is the largest of the 7.3 thousand km2 of Tien Shan glaciers. Its neighbor - Northern Inylchek is a little smaller. At the junction of two ice arms there is a mysterious “disappearing” Merzbacher lake. Every year - in winter and summer - within a week, the lake is completely deprived of water, dumping it into flowing rivers. Ice blocks of icebergs remain at the bottom. It is difficult to get around the lake during the full-flow period - it is surrounded by rocks. The age of the reservoir, as well as the mechanisms of its formation and discharge, are not fully understood. That is why both adventurers and scientists flock here. Glaciers of the Tien Shan are also studied in connection with global warming. Changing of the climate led to their rapid melting, therefore shape of glaciers and their size is carefully measured.
The Tien Shan Mountains are a popular destination for lovers snowboard, freeride, practicing . The ski season here lasts from December to April, and the weather is mild and sunny. Ski resorts Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Kyrgyzstan have enough trails that differ in both complexity and configuration. There are popular destinations and new routes. Organize descent from mountains and glaciers and transfer to the top by helicopter. There is a high-mountain ski resort in Kazakhstan "Chimbulak". Resorts have made a name for themselves in Kyrgyzstan « » “Kashka-suu”, “Orlovka”, “Oruu-sai”. Known in Uzbekistan "Chimgan", "Beldersay", under construction ski resort "Amirsay". The infrastructure of such resorts is getting better every year, focusing on European experience. Advantageous difference between the Tien Shan and ski resorts in Austria, Switzerland, France, Italy the fact that there are fewer tourists here. In Tien Shan everyone can get unique ski holiday.
Gorges
Tien Shan gives chances to everyone. In Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, peaks and picturesque passes await tourists, ready to surrender to those who are persistent and believe in themselves. Here you won’t need professional equipment, just comfortable clothes and shoes, and you won’t have to waste time on long acclimatization. And don’t let the attractiveness of these places among tourists scare you - the Tien Shan is so vast and so beautiful that there are still protected corners, little-known destinations and untrodden paths here.
IN mountains of Kazakhstan popular destination - Almaty region, where it is located sports complex "Medeo", Assy-Turgen Observatory. For picturesque views, people go to the Kazakh Tien Shan by boat. Kolsai (Kulsay) lakes. Three reservoirs are hidden among the green spurs in gorge Kolsai is 10 km north of the border with Kyrgyzstan.
Uzbekistan has modest peaks (3309 m) and Okhotnichiy Peak(3099 m) are compensated by the picturesqueness of the passes Takhta, Kumbel, the beauty of the plateau Pulatkhan And mountain routes for every taste, many of which do not require serious sports training. Moreover, at the May Alpiniad they teach the basics of mountaineering. And along the shores of the local resort - Charvak Reservoir (Charvak)- There are excellent hotels and comfortable guest houses.
Directions for , horseback riding and runs on mountain bike They are also waiting in Kyrgyzstan. Incredible panoramic views open from the passes, and higher in the mountains along the Ak-Suu and Tash-Tekir rivers the rapid rivers turn into alpine waterfalls Sharkyratma, cascades of Kuldurek waterfalls, Archaly-Tor and Takyr-Tor waterfalls, as well as many other famous and unnamed, but always beautiful. Mountain ranges covered with dense coniferous forests Terksey-Alatoo And Kungey-Alatoo change the idea of mountains as a kingdom of stones. A dense carpet of tall trees and herbs reigns here, and in spring the slopes are completely painted with a bright palette. Beauties Tien Shan spruces- giants with dark green needles. Another local attraction is heirloom nuts- appeared here in the Cretaceous period, more than 50 million years ago. Scattered along the spurs of the Tien Shan and concentrated in a tract in Kyrgyzstan, these trees are amazing in size and still bear fruit.
The spurs of the Tien Shan are a network of interesting gorges. Red slopes of the gorge Jety-Oguz will awaken the artist in everyone. The Fairy Tale Canyon, which reminds some of the American Grand Canyon and others of the Jordanian Petra, appears special to every visitor; the play of light and shadows creates here bizarre, different shapes and outlines each time. The most beautiful gorges Ak-su, Barskoon, And Chon-Koi-Su- this is the kingdom of herbs and turbulent mountain streams.
In the gorges Chon-Ak-Su (Grigorievskoe) And Semenovskoe in the summer they break yurt camps. Yurt- a fabric tent-house, the traditional dwelling of Asian nomads. Here you can enjoy pristine nature, take a break from the city noise, and get acquainted with the life and culture of the descendants of Tomiris, Atilla and Genghis Khan. 
The Kyrgyz people are sensitive to their history and cherish their customs and culinary traditions. IN yurt towns they introduce guests to traditional dresses, music, cuisine, and organize horseback riding around the area.
Gorges Chon-Koi-Su And Tamga and completely change the idea of mountains. Chong-Koi-Su is the abode of ancient people who left behind numerous drawings - petroglyphs talking about their life and the animals that lived here. And Tamga received its name (from Turkic - “sign”) thanks to ancient Buddhist symbols, which the local religious community carved on stones a long time ago.
The gorges will be of interest not only to those who love, but also to those who like to tickle their nerves on mountain rivers. Ideal for alloy And rafting rapid Angren, Akbulak, Ili, Koksu, Kyzylsu, Maidantal, Naryn, Oygaing, Pskem, Tarim, Chu, Ugam, Chatkal and others. They pass through many rapids, only in patches they emerge onto the plains, and in the upper reaches and lowlands they go along narrow rocky canyons.
Valleys
As a direction for camping, tracking, paragliding high mountain valleys and pastures are suitable jailoo (jailu). This is a protected world of lush herbs, mineral springs and crystal lakes.
One of the largest and most famous. Triangular crystal, clamped in the vice of the Kyrgyz ridge, Suusamyr-Too and Dzhumgal-Too, a magnet for lovers extreme And "black" holiday. In winter they go horse riding here. skiing And snowboarding, including on wild roads, with transfer from a helicopter to mountain peaks, covered with dry and crumbly “Tien Shan” snow. Enjoying the summer trekking tours from tent camp or fly to paragliding, capturing the beauty of the valley from a bird's eye view.
Valley - majestic alpine meadows overlooking the picturesque Arabel high plateau. This lake region was formed thanks to glaciers. There are 50 reservoirs of different sizes located here. However, the most picturesque is the crystal lake Kashka-Suu, like a mirror reflecting the skyward mountain peaks.
Valley Manzhyly-Ata known not only for its picturesque landscapes. Pilgrims and lovers of relaxation at mineral springs come here. Here are located Stone Age petroglyphs, Scythian burial grounds, medieval ruins And Buddhist inscriptions. According to ancient legend, Mother Deer lived here, giving rise to the Kyrgyz Bugu tribe. And the Manzhyly-Ata valley was named in honor of the Muslim preacher, Sufi and miracle worker who spread Islam here. Numerous mineral springs gushing out of the ground keys, according to evidence, help to heal from diseases.
Alpine lakes
There is also a place for quiet in the Tien Shan beach summer holiday.
It ranks seventh among the deepest lakes in the world. This crystalline surface, framed by mountain ranges, is the pride of the Tien Shan. The name translates as “hot lake”. Although the temperature in the district in winter drops below zero, and the reservoirs are covered with ice, the brackish, warm Issyk-Kul remains without ice cover all year round. The first mention of Issyk-Kul was left by Chinese travelers in the 2nd century BC. They called it “Zhe-Hai” - “warm sea”.
Issyk-Kul today - resort, active all year round. In summer people come here to soak up the water - there are more sunny days here than in Black Sea, and the infrastructure - beaches and piers, hotels, shops and restaurants - offer a choice for every taste and budget. In winter, lovers of extreme recreation go to the outskirts of Issyk-Kul - skiers, snowboarders, freeriders.
Not far from Issyk-Kul you can even experience something that is possible only in one place on the planet - on Dead Sea in Israel. Kyrgyzstan has its own dead lake- Kara-Kul, located 400 meters from Issyk-Kul. The salinity of the water is more than 70 percent or 132 grams per liter - enough to have a rejuvenating and healing effect, and also allow the vacationer to “lie” on the surface of the water without making any effort.
Lovers outdoor recreation, and birdwatchers, interested ecotourism, will appreciate the numerous high-mountain reservoirs of Kyrgyzstan.
hidden among the green western spurs of the heavenly mountains, it begs to be depicted on an artist’s canvas. Located at an altitude of 1878 meters above sea level in the protected area of the same name, Sary-Chelek It is one of the deepest reservoirs of the Tien Shan - in some places to the bottom of 220 meters. However, the water is so clear that in the smooth mirror you can see what is at the very bottom. The lake got its name, translated from Kyrgyz as “yellow bowl,” thanks to the motley blanket of bright flowers and shrubs reflected in the water.
The green western spurs of the Tien Shan are replete with numerous brothers of the bright Sary-Chelek. Small pearl reservoirs are hidden in the northern part of the Chatkal ridge. Calm Lake Aflatun, lost among the green spurs, and like stones strung on a thread of a high mountain river, lake Kara-Tokoy- the lower one, famous for its underwater forest, and the upper one, squeezed in the grip of the gorge of the same name.
A different landscape opens from the protected shores of lakes Chatyr-Kul and (Songkyul). These reservoirs of the Central Tien Shan, located at an altitude of more than three kilometers, are sandwiched by gray stone peaks in tectonic depressions among flat high-mountain valleys and green pastures of jailu. Both are covered with ice in the winter. And in spring, summer and autumn, birds flock here from all over Eurasia. Ideal destinations for mountain tourism, lovers of pristine nature and its feathered inhabitants.
Historical monuments
Tien Shan would not be Tien Shan without the people who left their mark here. Evidence that these regions have been inhabited since time immemorial remains in the tract Saimaluu-Tash or Saimaly-Tash (“Patterned stones”). Here in the highlands gorge near Kazarman More than 107 thousand drawings carved on rocks dating back to the 2nd-3rd millennium BC were discovered. Similar artifacts dating back to the 3rd-1st millennium BC. uh found on Chumysh rocks on the spurs of the Fergana ridge. “Younger” and smaller-scale rock galleries are also found in the Issyk-Kul, Naryn and Talas regions of Kyrgyzstan. Stone paintings tell about the life of the peoples who lived here and depict the beauty of nature.
Those interested in history will appreciate that in the Tien Shan, along with Muslim ones, artifacts of local and Turkic beliefs, Buddhism, and Nestorian Christianity have been preserved.
In the Middle Ages, the Tien Shan was a landmark on the caravan routes from Europe to China. The ruins of the fortified settlement remained silent witnesses of that era. Koshoi-Korgon and also mysterious caravanserai Tash-Rabat. Situated among picturesque mountains, they continue to attract attention with unanswered questions.
Legends of Tien Shan
Kyrgyz Olympus
The ancient Turks and Mongols revered the god Tengri as the organizer of the world, along with the goddess Umai and Erlik. They called him the deity of the upper zone of the world and believed that he wrote the destinies of people, measured out a term for everyone and determined who would be the ruler of people. Khan Tengri Peak was considered a kind of Olympus - the home of the supreme deity.
Tien Shan and Issyk
Beautiful legend talks about the origin of names Tien Shan And Issyk-kul. Allegedly, in ancient times, when there were no mountains here yet, the Tien Shan shepherd, strong as a hero, and his beautiful and modest wife Issyk lived in the green valleys. And their descendants would have praised their happiness for centuries, but only the evil sorcerer Khan Bagysh took a fancy to the faithful companion of the Tien Shan. The sorcerer's minions kidnapped blue-eyed Issyk in front of frightened children. In the evening, Tien Shan returned and did not find his wife in the yurt. He took his bow and arrows and headed towards the sorcerer's palace. Bagish sent countless troops against him, but the shepherd scattered them all in righteous anger. The sorcerer got scared, turned into a giant eagle and lifted Issyk into the blue heights in his claws. And he cast a spell on the hero so that he would turn into stone. The mighty Tien Shan felt his legs and arms grow numb and heavy and decided on a last desperate attempt - he put an arrow on his bow and fired. A well-aimed arrow pierced the eagle's wing. Bagish released the desired beauty from his claws. Out of anger, he cursed her too, wishing that Issyk would become water and go underground, not reaching anyone. Tien Shan rushed to catch his wife in time. The shepherd was petrified, turned into mighty mountains, and his wife became a crystal lake. The children turned into swift mountain rivers, remaining forever with their epic parents.
"style="font-size:18px"> The Tien Shan is a majestic mountain system located in Central Asia, mainly in northern Kyrgyzstan, but also in western China and southeastern Kazakhstan.
The Tien Shan consists of mountain ranges that extend predominantly in the latitudinal or sublatitudinal direction; only in its central part - the Central Tien Shan, where the highest peaks are located - Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Khan Tengri Peak (6995 m) - the Meridional Ridge stretches along the border of Kyrgyzstan and China.
In the Tien Shan Mountains, located on the territory of Kyrgyzstan, the following orographic regions can be distinguished:
Northern Tien Shan - consists of the Ketmen ridges (part of it in China), the Trans-Ili Alatau, Kungei-Alatau and the Kyrgyz ridge;
Western Tien Shan - includes the Talas Alatau with the Chatkal, Pskem, Ugam ridges adjoining it from the southwest, as well as the Karatau;
Southwestern Tien Shan - this is how the ridges framing the Fergana Valley are sometimes called, including the southwestern slope of the Fergana Range;
Inner Tien Shan - located south of the Kyrgyz ridge and the Issyk-Kul basin, framed from the southwest by the Fergana ridge, from the south by the Kokshaltau ridge, from the east by the Akshiyrak massif, separating the Inner Tien Shan from the Central.
The ridges of the Northern and Western Tien Shan gradually decrease from east to west from 4500-5000 m to 3500-4000 m (the Karatau ridge is up to 2176 m) and are distinguished by asymmetry: the northern slopes facing the Ili, Chu and Talas basins are longer, much dissected by gorges, with a relative height of up to 4000 m or more. Of the ridges of the Inner Tien Shan, the most significant are Terskey-Alatau, Borkoldoy, Atbashi (up to 4500-5000 m) and the southern barrier - the Kokshaltau ridge (Dankov Peak, 5982 m). The latitudinal and sublatitudinal arrangement of ridges, characteristic of the entire Tien Shan, is clearly expressed in the Northern and Inner Tien Shan.
In the Eastern Tien Shan, two stripes of mountain ranges are clearly defined, separated by a latitudinal strip of valleys and basins. The heights of the main ridges are 4000-5000 m; the ridges of the northern strip - Borokhoro, Iren-Khabyrga, Bogdo-Ula, Karlyktag - stretch to 95° east. The Southern Tien Shan strip is shorter (extends to 90° E); Its main ranges are Halyktau, Sarmin-Ula, Kuruktag. At the foot of the Eastern Tien Shan there are the Turfan depression (its depth is up to 154 m) and the Khamiya depression; within the southern strip there is an intermountain depression filled with Bagrashkol waters.
In the highlands, glacial landforms predominate; on the slopes of the gorges there are numerous screes, along the bottoms of the valleys there are accumulations of moraine deposits. At an altitude of 3200-3400 m and above, rocks that have been frozen for many years are almost ubiquitous; The thickness of frozen soils rarely exceeds 20-30 m, but in the Aksai-Chatyrkol depression in some places it is more than 100 m.
Within the Terskey-Alatau, Atbashi and other ridges, significant areas are occupied by leveling surfaces, and at the foot of many ridges there are strips of foothills (adyrs), which in many areas causes a well-defined stepwise profile of the mountains. High-mountain depressions, relatively recently freed from glaciers and still slightly affected by erosion processes, usually have flat or slightly hilly surfaces; Swamps also occupy significant areas. Depressions below 2500 m usually include well-developed river valleys with numerous terraces, some of which retain lakes (for example, Issyk-Kul). In some basins there are areas of small hills (especially in the Naryn basin and in the southwest of the Issyk-Kul basin). 
The Tien Shan Mountains are located inland, at relatively low latitudes, among dry desert plains. The main part of the mountains lies in the temperate climate zone, but the Fergana ranges (Southwestern Tien Shan) are located on the border with the subtropical zone, experiencing the influence of dry subtropics, especially in the lower altitude zones. In general, the climate in the mountains is sharply continental, arid, characterized by a significant duration of sunshine (2500-3000 hours/year).
In some areas of the Tien Shan, strong winds are observed (for example, “ulan” and “santash” in the Issyk-Kul basin). High altitudes, complexity and dissected terrain cause sharp contrasts in the distribution of heat and moisture.
In the valleys of the lower mountain belt, the average July air temperature is 20-25°C, in mid-altitude valleys - 15-17°C, at the foot of glaciers up to 5°C and below. In winter, frosts here reach -30°C. In mid-altitude valleys, cold periods often alternate with thaws, although average January temperatures are usually below -6°C. Temperature conditions allow the cultivation of grapes in these areas up to an altitude of 1400 m, rice up to 1550 m (in the Eastern Tien Shan), wheat up to 2700 m, barley up to 3000 m.
The amount of precipitation in the Tien Shan Mountains increases with altitude. On the foothill plains it is 150-300 mm, in the foothills and low mountains 300-450 mm, in the middle mountains 450-800 mm, and in places (in the Western Tien Shan) up to 1600 mm per year. Inland depressions usually receive 200-400 mm of precipitation per year (their eastern parts are more humid). In the Tien Shan mountains, the maximum level of precipitation mainly occurs in the summer, in the Fergana and Talas valleys - in the spring.
Due to the significant dryness of the climate, the snow line in the Tien Shan is located at an altitude of 3600-3800 m in the north-west, to 4200-4450 m in the Central Tien Shan, in the Eastern Tien Shan it drops to 4000-4200 m. In the ridge There are numerous snowfields in the mountain zone; certain areas of the Tien Shan are prone to avalanches (mainly in spring).
The largest accumulations of snow are on the northern and western slopes. At the foot of the ridges the snow usually lies for about 2-3 months, in the middle mountains - 6-7 months, at the foot of the glaciers - 9-10 months a year. In intermountain basins the snow cover is often thin; In some places livestock grazing takes place here all year round.
Due to the fact that the climate in the Tien Shan mountains is dry and continental, mountain steppes and semi-deserts predominate here, subalpine and alpine meadows are available; Forest landscapes cannot be found in their pure form - there are only combinations of them with steppes and meadows - however, the Southwestern Tien Shan is characterized by walnut and fruit forests. 
Most of the Tien Shan is the territory where runoff is formed. Rivers usually originate from snowfields and glaciers of the glacial-nival belt and end in the endorheic lake basins of Central and Central Asia, in the inland lakes of the Tien Shan, or form so-called “dry deltas,” that is, their waters completely seep into the alluvial deposits of the piedmont plains and sorted out for irrigation. The main rivers originating from the Tien Shan mountains belong to the basin of the Syrdarya (these are Naryn and Karadarya), Talas, Chu, Ili (with the sources of Kunges and Tekes and the tributary of Kash), Manas, Tarim (Saryjaz, Kokshal, Muzart), Konchedarya (Haydyk-Gol).
The rivers are fed predominantly by snow, and in high mountain areas in the summer months - by glaciers. Maximum flow occurs in late spring and summer. And this enhances the national economic importance of the Tien Shan rivers, a significant part of the flow of which is used for irrigation of intramountain valleys and basins, as well as the plains adjacent to the Tien Shan.
The largest lakes of the Tien Shan are of tectonic origin and are located within the bottoms of intermountain depressions. These include the drainless, non-freezing, brackish lake Issyk-Kul, the high-mountain (located at an altitude of more than 3000 m) lakes Son-Kul and Chatyrkol, which are covered with ice most of the year.
There are also tarn and periglacial lakes here (these include Lake Merzbacher, located between the glaciers of the Northern and Southern Inylchek). Of the lakes of the Eastern Tien Shan, the largest lake is Bagrashkel, connected by the Konchedarya River to Lake Lop Nor. In the upper reaches of the Naryn River, and in the depressions of the moraine topography, there are also many smaller lakes. A number of lakes are of dammed origin and are distinguished by significant depth and steep banks (for example, Lake Sary-Chelek in the southern spurs of the Chatkal ridge).
Glaciation.
The area of mountain glaciation is 10.2 thousand sq. km. The largest area of glaciation is located in the ridges of the Central Tien Shan. Other centers are the Trans-Ili Alatau, Terskey-Alatau, Akshiyrak, Kokshaltau ridges, and in the Eastern Tien Shan - the Iren-Khabyrga and Halyktau ridges.
Complex valley glaciers flow down from the ridges of the Central Tien Shan; the largest of them are Southern Inylchek (its length is 59.5 km), Northern Inylchek (38.2 km) and the most significant glacier of the entire Eastern Tien Shan - Kara-jailau (34 km).
The “heavenly” mountains are characterized mainly by small valleys, ravines and hanging glaciers. Currently, most of the Tien Shan glaciers are apparently at the stage of contraction, but in the 1950s - 1970s, the advance of individual glaciers was noted (these are the Mushketov, Northern Karasai and others glaciers). 
Animal world.
Among the representatives of the fauna in various parts of the Tien Shan mountains there are such representatives of the desert and steppe fauna as the gazelle, ferret, tolai hare, ground squirrel, jerboa, gerbil, mole vole, wood mouse, Turkestan rat, etc.; Among the reptiles, snakes (viper, copperhead, patterned snake) and lizards live here; among birds - lark, wheatear, bustard, hazel grouse, chukar (partridge), imperial eagle, etc. Representatives of the forest fauna of the middle mountains include wild boar, lynx, brown bear, badger, wolf, fox, marten, roe deer, teleut squirrel; Birds include crossbill and nutcracker. In the highlands and in places in the middle mountains live marmots, pikas, silver and narrow-skulled voles, mountain goats (teke), mountain sheep (argali), ermine, and occasionally snow leopards; among birds - Alpine jackdaw, horned lark, finches, Himalayan snowcock, eagles, vultures, etc. On the lakes - waterfowl (ducks, geese), on Issyk-Kul during migration - swans, on Bagrashkol there are cormorants, black storks and others . Many lakes are rich in fish (Osman, Chebak, Marinka and others). 
Pobeda Peak.
Pobeda Peak is the highest point of the entire Tien Shan mountain system. Its height is 7439 meters. This peak, discovered in 1943, became the northernmost seven-thousander on the planet. Many avid climbers strive to conquer this seven-thousander, but it is worth remembering that when climbing, periods of exceptionally bad weather may occur, accompanied by severe frosts, snow storms and avalanches, so a snow cave may be your best option for temporary shelter.
Pobeda Peak looks like a huge, gloomy giant, lying down to rest not far from the foot of the impressive shining pyramid of Khan Tengri. Days of favorable weather are rare and are often followed by long periods of stormy weather, during which freezing winds from the Taklamakan Desert, meaningfully named Bekunchak (“Thousand Devils”), make the climb extremely difficult and dangerous. But on rare fine days, an attentive observer can easily guess the half-kilometer “$” sign on the summit rocky bastion of Pobeda Peak. 
Peak Khan Tengri.
Not far from Pobeda Peak rises Khan Tengri Peak, whose height is 6995 meters. This is the “Lord of Heaven” (in another translation “Lord of Spirits”), a giant pyramid that was first conquered by people in 1936.
By the way, both of these peaks are very popular among Russian and Western climbers.
The border of three states runs along the top of this peak: China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. It has a surprisingly regular pyramidal shape and rises a whole kilometer above the nearest peaks of the Tengritau ridge. This is one of the most beautiful peaks in the world. Since time immemorial, Kazakhs and Kyrgyz have called it Kan-Too (from the Turkic “kan” - blood, “too” - mountain). They call it that because here, during the incomparable scarlet sunset, the upper part of the peak becomes almost red, and the shadows from the clouds passing over it create a semblance of red streams flowing from it. Conditions for climbing Khan Tengri are difficult due to frequent bad weather, hurricane winds and low temperatures. 
Legends of the Tien Shan.
The information presented below is not Tien Shan legends, but so-called local attractions, the specific location of which is the Northern Tien Shan (Alatoo mountain range).
By the way, a few words about this ridge. Alatoo, Atatau, Alai and Altai - all these names are just variations that, in principle, have the same essence and designate the same ridge. From all Turkic languages, this part of the mighty Tien Shan is translated the same way - namely “Motley Mountains”. This is probably the most picturesque place in the entire Northern Tien Shan, but at the same time, the appearance of the mountains is always unstable, changeable and even frighteningly diverse. The mountains abound with green meadows, blue rivers, hot springs; here the white glaciers on the peaks are adjacent to the red granite rocks, bluish crowns of coniferous forests and the bright yellow steppe of sun-scorched foothills.
Manchzhyly-Ata.
So, among the attractions of Alatoo, the most famous is the valley of the sacred springs Manzhyly-Ata. This place is home to the mazar (place of pilgrimage) of the famous Sufist teacher and miracle worker, who successfully spread Islam among the nomadic Kirghiz.
The name Manchzhyly-Ata is most likely a pious nickname. From various Turkic languages it can mean the highest degree of respect, the patron of the area, the patron of wanderers, the hospitable righteous man, and the owner of fertile pastures on the plateau.
This sacred valley is a whole labyrinth of shallow gorges located between clayey steppe hills, from the depths of which many springs flow. Each spring is considered healing, although initially they could serve, first of all, as convenient watering places for sheep flocks brought from the surrounding semi-desert.
Despite the fact that initially the Muslim saint had the “title” of a preacher of Islam, gradually this hypostasis of his faded into the background, and gained a reputation as a miracle worker, owner of the magical power of underground springs.
Experts on the shrines of Kyrgyzstan give advice to pilgrims who come here that the most valuable thing Manzhyly-Ata can bestow on those seeking his protection is family happiness, peace of mind and well-being in his personal life. So, it turns out that this saint is, first of all, not a healer and protector of shepherds and their flocks, but a protector of the family and clan, the guardian of the internal integrity of man.
Fairy tale of Alatoo.
This fairy tale, in the literal sense of the word, is a picturesque canyon located in the seasonal channel of rain streams running down to Issyk-Kul from the foothills of Terskey-Alatoo between the villages of Kadzhisay and Tamga. It is interesting that at first glance the gorge seems completely unremarkable, and all that can be seen here are clay cliffs on both sides of the gorge, overgrown with stunted bushes. But this is only at first glance... In fact, this unremarkable sight suddenly gives way to something completely opposite, which actually gave the name to this area - “Fairy Tale”.
The seemingly dull canyon in the blink of an eye appears before travelers in all its splendor. From all sides, the observer is surrounded by eruptions of multi-colored rocks of the brightest contrasting shades, frozen in the most unusual forms. Plates of hard limestone and sandstone protrude in clusters from the soft flesh of the soil, in places looking like the ruins of ancient castles or the skeletons of prehistoric monsters.
The legend about this amazing creation of nature has already appeared in our days. It says that you cannot see the same thing twice. Eyewitnesses say that it seems to be constantly changing, and if after the first visit you return here again, then neither the second, nor the third, nor any subsequent times the traveler will be able to see the same thing that he saw before. Each time the canyon will show you new beauties, each time it will be fabulously transformed. 
from the Internet 
Geographical position. Tien Shan is one of the largest mountain systems in Asia. Translated from Chinese, Tien Shan means “heavenly mountains”. The territory of Kazakhstan includes almost the entire Northern Tien Shan, parts of the Central and Western Tien Shan.
The Central Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins from the powerful mountain node Khan Tengri (6995 m), at the junction of the borders of China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Further it extends to the west along a series of ridges. The largest of them is Tersky Alatau. The border with Kyrgyzstan runs along its eastern branch.
The Northern Tien Shan includes the following ranges: Ketmen, Kungey Alatau, Trans-Ili Alatau, Chu-Ili Mountains and Kyrgyz Alatau.
The Western Tien Shan includes the Talas ridge and the Ugamsky and Korzhintau ridges extending from it in the southeast direction.
Karatau is located entirely within Kazakhstan - the most extreme, heavily destroyed region of the Tien Shan.
Relief, geological structure and minerals. The Tien Shan is located in the ancient synclinal belt. It is composed of metamorphosed shales, sandstones, gneisses, limestones and volcanic rocks of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic deposits. Later continental and lacustrine deposits are concentrated on the mountain plains. They consist of clayey, sandy and moraine deposits. Main mountain systems:
Trans-Ili Alatau is the northernmost high-mountain ridge of the Tien Shan, has a length of 350 km, a width of 30-40 km, and an average height of 4000 m.
The Trans-Ili Alatau rises towards the Talgar and Chiliko-Kemin mountains (Talgar peak - 4973 m), and in the eastern direction, towards the Dalashyk and Tore tracts, it noticeably decreases (3300-3400 m). The northern slopes of the mountains are especially clearly cut by numerous rivers, which indicates the influence of the Ice Age on them.
The Trans-Ili Alatau is composed of ancient sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - sandstones, porphyries, granites and gneisses. As a result of the formation of the Caledonian and Hercynian folds in the Paleozoic, and then repeated uplift during the Alpine mountain-building process, the mountain structure became block-folded.
An alpine type of relief has developed on the peaks. Pointed peaks alternate with intermountain plains. Some mountain areas have a stepped relief shape.
Ketmen - one of the mid-mountain ridges - is located in the eastern part of the Tien Shan. Its length within Kazakhstan is 300 km, width - 50 km, height - 3500 m. It is formed from effusive sedimentary rocks of the Paleozoic. In some places granite protrudes onto the surface of the relief. The slopes of Ketmen are dissected by the rivers of the Ili basin.
Kungey Alatau is included within the borders of Kazakhstan only on the northern slopes of its eastern part. The average height of this mountain range is 3800-4200 m. The eastern part of Kungei Alatau and Trans-Ili Alatau is separated by the valleys of the Charyn and Chilik rivers and the intermountain plain Zhalanash. The slopes of Kungei of the Northern Alatau are relatively flat and highly dissected, the peaks are leveled.
The Chu-Ili Mountains are located in the north-west of the Trans-Ili Alatau. They consist of individual hills that have undergone destruction and severe erosion (Dolankara, Kulzhabas, Kindiktas, Khantau, Alaigyr, etc.). The average height is 1000-1200 m. The highest point is Aitau, its height is 1800 m. The Chu-Ili Mountains were formed from Precambrian metamorphic rocks and thick layers of gneiss. Their surfaces are composed of sedimentary-effusive rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - shales, sandstones. The slopes of the mountains are dry, dissected by deep gorges, the peaks are leveled, to the northwest of these mountains the Betpakdala plateau is located.
The Kyrgyz Alatau is a large mountain system; its northern slope of the western part is located on the territory of Kazakhstan. Its highest peak is Western Alamedin Peak - 4875 m. In the Kazakhstan part, the height of the mountains does not exceed 4500 m. To the west they decrease. The northern slopes are subsided and destroyed mountains. The surface of the ridge is composed of sandstones, limestones and granites of the Carboniferous period. The ridge has an uneven, highly dissected surface. On the border with Kyrgyzstan, this ridge has an alpine relief type.
The Western Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins south of the Kyrgyz ridge, beyond the Talas Valley. The Talas Alatau chain rises here (in the vicinity of the city of Taraz).
The Kazakhstani part of the Talas Alatau is the Zhabagly Mountains and the Sairam Range. The Zhabagly Mountains are divided into two mountain ranges: they form the Aksu-Zhabagly river basin (the height of the northern ridge is 2600-2800 m, the southern ridge is 3500 m). They are also composed of sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Paleozoic. The mountain slopes are dissected, bear traces of ancient glaciation, and are distinguished by an alpine type of relief.
The Tashkent Mountains consist of several mountain ranges extending southwest from the Talas Alatau. These include the Sairam Mountains (the highest point is Sairam Peak 4220 m), Koksu (the highest point - 3468 m), Ugam (the highest point 3560 m), Karzhantau (2839 m), Kazykurt (1700 m). Their geological histories are similar. All of them are composed of Paleozoic limestones. The mountain slopes are steep and the terrain is dissected. Karst phenomena are widespread.
The Karatau ridge is located on the western edge of the Western Tien Shan. It extends in a northwest direction for 400 km, its average height is 1800 m. The highest point is Mynzhylky (2176 m). To the north-west it decreases and already at the confluence of the dry beds of the Sarysu and Chu rivers, the mountain becomes a plateau. In terms of geological structure and relief, Karatau is similar to the Chu-Ili Mountains. It settles, collapses and levels out. The northeastern and southwestern mountain ranges of the Karatau ridge are separated by intermountain valleys. If its southwestern ridge was formed from Proterozoic metamorphic rocks, then the northeastern ridge was formed from Paleozoic sandstones and shales.
The valleys located between the two ridges are composed of red clay. Mesozoic and Cenozoic deposits of limestone, sandstone and clay are also widespread. The local relief was formed under dry climate conditions. There is no constant surface runoff. The slopes are dissected by large and small gorges and dry river beds.
A large reserve of minerals was found on the territory of Karatau. They are used to produce lead and zinc at the Shymkent Lead-Zinc Plant and to provide phosphorus raw materials to chemical plants in Taraz. Ores are mined by open-pit mining. Karatau is a source of building materials - gypsum, cement, etc., which gives the state large profits. The folded base of the southwestern and southern parts of the ridge formed in the Paleozoic era.
The main appearance of the Tien Shan relief was formed during mountain building in the Neogene and Anthropogen periods of the Cenozoic era. Proof of this is the earthquakes occurring in the Tien Shan. The general appearance of the mountain relief is not the same. The mountains alternate between high peaks, ridges with intermountain valleys, hilly plains, etc. The altitudinal belt of the mountains is formed in direct dependence on the geographical location and layout of the mountain ranges.
Climate, rivers and glaciers. The climate of the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan mountain system is dry, unstable, formed in winter under the influence of polar and in summer tropical air masses. It is influenced by Arctic air masses and the Siberian anticyclone. The height of mountain ranges and the variety of terrain affect the supply of heat and moisture. Therefore, in autumn and spring there are often frosts in the foothills of the Tien Shan. In the summer months, hot winds often blow - hot winds. The dry continental climate of the plains in the mountains gives way to a moderately humid continental climate. Winter is long, from October to April-May, summer is much shorter.
In Kungey and Terskey Alatau, snow sometimes falls as early as August and it becomes quite cold. Even in May-June there are often frosts. Real summer comes only in July.
The time of heaviest precipitation is May. If during this period it rains at the foot of the mountain, then snow falls on its peaks.
On the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, even in the winter months there are often warm days. During the day the snow melts, at night the puddles become covered with ice. Such a sudden change in weather has a destructive effect on the rock.
The climate of the Western Tien Shan is influenced by the warm climatic conditions of southern Kazakhstan. Therefore, in the Western Tien Shan mountains the snow line is located higher than in the east. Here the average annual precipitation is higher - 600-800 mm. On the mountain slopes the average July temperature is +20°+25°C, at the foot of the glaciers -5°C.
Many rivers flow along the spurs of the Tien Shan Mountains and along the intermountain plains. The rivers Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, Talgar, Issyk, Chilik, Kaskelen originate from the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, and the Charyn River originates from the eastern slopes of the Tien Shan. Many of them flow into the Ili River, the flow of which replenishes the water supply of Lake Balkhash.
The Chu River originates in the Kyrgyz Alatau and after crossing the border of Kyrgyzstan flows through the territory of Kazakhstan.
The Arys, Boraldai, and Bogen rivers flow from the southwestern slopes of Karatau. From the northwestern slopes there are some rivers that are fed by melted snow waters in the spring and dry up in the summer.
In the spurs of the Tien Shan there are lakes located in depressions between the mountain peaks. These lakes originate from glaciers. Below, in intermountain basins, small lakes form.
The peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains are covered with glaciers; their most powerful reserves are concentrated in the Chiliko-Keminsky mountain cluster. In the Trans-Ili Alatau there are more than 380 glaciers, which occupy mountain valleys with a total area of 478 km2. They are located in the upper part of the basins, where the Chilik, Issyk, Talgar, Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, and Aksai rivers originate. The largest glacier is Korzhenevsky (length 12 km).
In total, in the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan there are 1009 glaciers with a total area of 857 km2. Long-term melting of glaciers and heavy precipitation on hot summer days increase the influx of meltwater to lakes and rivers. This leads to water overflowing its banks and flooding begins. They cause great harm to the economy and pose a danger to human life.
Natural areas. Flora and fauna. The natural zones of the Tien Shan mountainous country vary vertically. These belts developed in direct dependence on the orographic pattern of mountain ranges and geographic location. Due to the diversity of the natural environment and the characteristic features of each mountain range of the Tien Shan, the same belts are not located vertically everywhere at the same height: in one ridge they are higher, and in another they are lower.
In the Northern Tien Shan there are four levels of altitude zones. If we count them from the very top, then they begin with glaciers, with alpine terrain covered with eternal snow. And in other ridges the belts begin at an altitude of 2600-2800 m, in others - above 3300 m. Here there are hilly hills surrounding bare rocks. Natural areas consist of subalpine and alpine meadows and high-mountain landscapes. The mountains are inhabited by leopards, mountain goats, snowcocks, and mountain eagles.
The next altitudinal zone is common in mountains of average height from 1500-1600 m to 3200-3300 m. Small-leaved and coniferous forests mainly grow on the northern slopes of the mountains. The plains are covered with meadows; on the southern slopes there are signs of steppe and meadow-steppe zones.
Spruce-forest belt.
1. Schrenk spruce.
2. Aspen.
3. Tien Shan rowan.
4. Honeysuckle.
5. Geranium is straight.
6. Siberian larch.
7. Siberian fir
Forests are found only in gorges. Animals inhabited by bears and roe deer.
The belt of low mountains is clearly visible in the Trans-Ili Alatau. Their height is 900-1100 m above sea level. They resemble the small hills of the central part of Kazakhstan. Various types of plants grow on the dark and dark chestnut soils of this territory: herbaceous, woody (pines), shrubs (meadowsweet).
The lowest altitude zone covers intermountain plains and the foothills of the mountains (they are located at an altitude of approximately 600-800 m). In these territories, signs of desert, semi-desert, and steppe zones are observed. Grains, melons and horticultural crops are grown here. Meadows are used as pastures for grazing livestock.
The altitude zones of the Western Tien Shan, compared to the Northern Tien Shan, are located 100-200 m higher. They are affected by the arid climate of Central Asia and less moisture. The types of soil and vegetation cover vary depending on the altitudinal zone. Asian and Indian plant species grow in the Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve. And the animals living in the western spurs of the Tien Shan are noticeably different from the inhabitants of the Northern Tien Shan. There are more Siberian and European species of animals, and in the West there are animals similar to Mediterranean, African, and Himalayan species.
Reserves. In order to protect the nature of the Tien Shan, its flora and fauna, reserves and national parks were organized. Among them, the Aksu-Zhabagly and Almaty nature reserves and the Ile-Alatau national park occupy a large place.
Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve (1927) - a repository of the pristine nature of the Western Tien Shan - is intended to protect 1,404 species of plants (including 269 rare ones), 238 species of birds, 42 species of mammals, 9 species of reptiles. The reserve is home to rare species of animals and birds: gophers, bustards, little bustards.
In the Almaty Nature Reserve (1961), 965 species of plants, 39 species of animals, and 200 species of birds grow. The snow leopard, brown bear, and deer are taken under protection.
In 1996, the outskirts of Almaty were declared the Ile-Alatau National Park. It is located on an area of over 181.6 thousand hectares, on the northern slope of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Important nature conservation activities are carried out here.
1. Using the tectonic map of Kazakhstan, determine when the processes of mountain formation took place in the Northern and Western Tien Shan. Why does the Tien Shan belong to a seismic zone?
2. Using the climate map, explain the unevenness of precipitation in the Tien Shan.
3. What is the reason for the arid climate? Is it possible for the formation of a climate characteristic of the Tien Shan in its individual parts? Why, if possible?
4. Show on the map the glaciers of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan. Explain the patterns of their location.
5. What explains the diversity of types of altitudinal belts in the Northern and Western Tien Shan?
Draw on a contour map a diagram of the location of the mountain ranges of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan.
Almaty
Tragedy at Pobeda in 1955. Tien Shan
Committee on Physical Culture and Sports
Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR
Republican Club of Mountaineers and
tourists. REPORT about the work of high-altitude sports research
expeditions to the Central Tien Shan to Pobeda Peak
7.439.3 meters.
/ July - September 1955 / Alma-Ata
1956
1. BRIEF CHARACTERISTICS OF THE AREA The mountainous country of Tien Shan extends its ridges into the southeastern part of the Kazakh SSR, and its main, central part is located on the border with China, occupying the eastern part of the territory of Kyrgyzstan. Huge glaciation, high peaks and among them the highest point of the Tien Shan - Pobeda Peak - 7,439.3 meters, harsh climate, stormy mountain rivers, unknown and unexplored riches of the subsoil have long attracted the inquisitive minds of travelers, scientists, mountain climbers to the Central Tien Shan . Despite the available information about the Central part of the Tien Shan, compiled by many expeditions, the Tien Shan remains far unexplored, the most difficult mountainous region of the USSR. There are especially many troubles when studying this mountainous country due to the changeable weather of the highlands; there are not even systematic meteorological observations in the central glaciated part of the Tien Shan. The particular difficulty of working in the mountains is determined by the instability of the weather with a minimum air humidity of 90 percent, and sharp temperature fluctuations from +25 Celsius. up to -40Сgr. and the most unexpected invasion of cold fronts bringing bad weather with storm-force winds. This explains the low attendance of the Tien Shan by sports expeditions. Starting from 1921 to 1955, the region of the Central Tien Shan was visited by not much more than a dozen sports expeditions, having mastered only 9 peaks. Its highest point, Pobeda Peak, 7,439.3 m, still remains unconquered. A feature of this area is also its inaccessibility. Mountain rivers, high passes, rugged and long glaciers take up a lot of time and effort from travelers. A traveler, in order to achieve his goal in the Central Tien Shan, must prepare himself for the most varied type of movement from an airplane to a car, on horses or mules, and in all cases ending on foot with a large shoulder load in a backpack. A special place in this inaccessible area is occupied by the area of the Khan Tengri peaks - 6.995m, Pobeda - 7.439.3m. etc. Geographical discoveries and descriptions of the location of mountain ranges and main glaciers date back to 1929-38. and 1943. Started back in 1902-1903. German scientist G. Merzbacher. A particularly valuable contribution was made by Ukrainian expeditions led by the now Honored Master of Sports M.G. Pogrebetsky. For the first time, diagrams and maps were drawn up about this “white spot” on geographical maps. Individual small sports expeditions, which set primarily sporting goals, sometimes supplemented and clarified information about this area. The final topographical clarification of the Eastern part of the Central Tien Shan was carried out by military topographers of Turk.VO under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel Rapasov in 1943. This topographical group was responsible for determining the height of the peak, which was later named Pobeda and turned out to be the highest point of the Central Tien Shan. Earlier, in 1938, a group of Moscow climbers under the leadership of Honored Master of Sports A.A. Letavet tried to climb it. This was the first attempt to conquer an unknown giant. The first attempt to climb the highest peak, Pobeda Peak, ended in failure. Difficult meteorological conditions and a miscalculation in altitude led the group to frostbite on its slopes; the climbers managed to reach a height of 6,950 meters. Visits to the Central Tien Shan by climbers from Kazakhstan began in 1935 with reconnaissance of the approaches and routes to the Khan Tengri peak - 6995m. With the ascent to Khan Tengri Peak in 1936 and Chapaev Peak - 6320m. In 1937, climbers from Kazakhstan opened the first pages of high-altitude ascents in this area. In the post-war years, in 1949, climbers of Kazakhstan organized an expedition to climb Pobeda Peak. 1949 was especially different from previous years in unstable weather, heavy snowfalls and powerful avalanches. All this made the work of the climbers so difficult and dangerous, who twice fell into avalanches and from a height of 5640 meters were forced to return to the base camp on the Zvezdochka glacier - 4300 m, and then descended from the mountains with minor injuries and minor frostbite among the participants. This was the second unsuccessful attempt to climb Pobeda Peak. Climbers from Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan were persistently reconnaissance of the route to the highest peak of the Central Tien Shan. Two seasons 1952-1953 They spent time in the area of Pobeda Peak, looking for ways to climb to the top, for which they climbed Chapaev Peak and Druzhba Peak and, as always, climbers had to fight the unfavorable climate of the Tien Shan. In 1954, after successful ascents to the Marble Wall peak - 6400m, Bayankol peak - 5790m. and a number of peaks in the northeastern part of the Central Tien Shan with a height of up to 5000 m, climbers from Kazakhstan went to the Pobeda Peak area with the task of climbing Khan Tengri Peak. The weather was incredibly favorable, and the climbers successfully completed the ascent from September 4 to 9. The area around Pobeda Peak was crowded in 1955. An expedition of the Kazakh Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of 28 people under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Kolokolnikov E. M.’s goal was to climb Pobeda Peak along the eastern ridge. During the same period July-September 1955. An expedition of the Uzbek Committee for Physical Education and Sports, together with a group of military climbers from Turk.VO, numbering 50 people, planned to climb Pobeda Peak along its northern edge, and reached a height of 6500 m. Unfavorable weather and the death of the assault group of Kazakhstan climbers forced them to return without reaching the goal . This is a brief description of the Central Tien Shan region and the history of attempts to climb the highest peak in this region - Pobeda Peak - 7439m.
 Sketch - page - 1 From the expedition archive |
 Sketch - page - 2 From the expedition archive |
EXPEDITION WORK IN THE MOUNTAINS
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on the high-altitude expedition of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
camp "Zvezdochka" No. 1. August 14, 1955
Head of the expedition
Honored Master of Sports: /signature/ /E. Kolokolnikov/
Deputy head of the expedition
on the political side: /signature/ /O. Batyrbekov/
/Follows the signatures of the assault participants who read the order/. After the order was announced, the issues of backup communication using magnesium candles and flashlights were clarified, after which V. Shipilov’s group left in the direction of camp 4700m. accompanied by the expedition commissioner O. Batyrbekov and 3 members of the Turk.VO expedition. August 15 V. Shipilov’s group reached camp 5100m. I made the trail to the Chon-Toren pass. August 16 V. Shipilov's group reached the pass. The condition of the assault group members is good. The connection works great. By 5 p.m. the assault group reached 5850m. In the evening, the expedition commissioner O. Batyrbekov returned from under the pass. August 17 Communication with the group was cut off unexpectedly. The Klein-FU-2 radio station burned down. In the “Zvezdochka-1” camp, O. Batyrbekov and S. Zabozlaev were immediately sent to the Chon-Toren pass for the radio station located in the camp 5100m. At the same time, they received the task of establishing contact with Shipilov’s group. It turned out that the Turk.VO group, having violated the order of the Vsekomfizkult to go out for the climb in the second place, after the return of the Kazakh climbers, began the assault on August 15th. This was reported by radiogram to the authorized Master of Sports of the All-Comphysical Culture A. Gvalia. Honored Master of Sports L. Yurasov arrived at the camp to observe Naryshkin’s group. August 18 O. Batyrbekov and S. Zabozlaev returned to the Zvezdochka-1 camp and brought a spare radio station. It was not possible to establish contact with V. Shipilov’s group. We get in touch every hour in the first 10 minutes by agreement in case of loss of connection. Horses arrived from the “Green” camp, but they could not get to the camp. The rapid melting and exposure of the glacier's surface created a serious obstacle to bridging the cracks. At 22-00 o'clock signaled with light. There was no response from V. Shipilov’s group. August 19 Members of V. Shipilov’s group descended under the command of M.S. A. Semchenko as part of P. Menyailov, N. Shevchenko, R. Torodin. The group descended due to the illness of P. Menyailov and the poor health of N. Shevchenko. A. Semchenko received an order on the morning of August 20 to go to the lane. Chon-Toren and stay there according to order No. 1 of the head of the expedition. A. Semchenko reported that everything was fine in V. Shipilov’s group and that A. Semchenko had set up a tent at an altitude of 6300m. with food and fuel. On this day, it was not possible to establish contact with the assault group. At night it suddenly began to snow heavily. August 20 A. Semchenko’s group cannot reach the pass. Severe bad weather, movement on the glacier is practically closed due to poor visibility. The radio station of V. Shipilov's group does not answer the call. There is no connection. The snow doesn't stop falling. By 18-00 snow fell up to 65 cm. August 21 There is no connection. Snowfall continues. An attempt to create a path between the camps was unsuccessful. The temperature drops noticeably. At 16-00 the snow stopped, the depth was 85 cm. August 22 The snow settled overnight. With difficulty, over the course of a whole day, with the efforts of two expeditions, we made a path between the Zvezdochka -1 camp and the 4700m camp. It started snowing in the afternoon. August 23 Master of Sports A. Semchenko and his group went to the camp at 4700m. Frost in the camp -10C deg. There is no connection with V. Shipilov’s group. 24 August The group of A. Semchenko, moving towards the Chon-Toren pass, discovered U. Usenov, a participant from the group V. Shipilov, in a crack. Ural Usenov fell into a crack at 10:00 a.m. on August 23, where he stayed until 12:00 a.m. on August 24, i.e. 26 hours. U. Usenov's condition is satisfactory. Frostbitten hands and feet. Usenov reported on the difficult situation of V. Shipilov’s group. Measures have been taken to carry out rescue operations. The plane has been called. Medical assistance was provided to Usenov by doctor S. Zabozlaev, who arrived with O. Batyrbekov at camp 4700m. 25-th of August A. Semchenko’s group delivered U. Usenov to the camp at 4700m. and went to camp 5100m. U. Usenov was brought to the camp by members of the Turk.VO expedition. U. Usenov’s condition made it possible to interview him about everything that happened at an altitude of 6700m. with the group of V. Shipilov, after which he was transported, accompanied by doctor S. Zabozlaev, down to the landing site of the aircraft. All rescue operations were based on information provided by U. Usenov. Here is what U. Usenov said: “A group of 16 people, of which I was a member, acting in accordance with the order of the head of the expedition, on August 14 at 16:00 from the camp “Zvezdochka - 1” - 4200m, set out on the ascent route. After 2 hours of travel, we reached the previously established camp, approximately at an altitude of 4700 m. An overnight stay was organized here. On the morning of August 15, in good weather, we followed a previously explored route to the camp under the Chon-Toren pass - 5100 m. During the day we approached the pass, where we spent the second night. On August 16, we reached the Chon-Toren pass and continued moving along the ridge, reaching an altitude of 5800 m in one day. Here, in the evening, having set up tents, we stopped for the night. The weather was favorable. The mood of all participants was cheerful. On August 17, the entire train continued to move along the ridge. In the evening, having stopped for the night, the head of the assault group, Master of Sports V.P. Shipilov, due to the poor health of the participants Menyailov, Shevchenko and Torodin, decided to return them down in the morning, led by Master of Sports Semchenko. August 18 morning comrade. Semchenko with the group of 3 people mentioned above went down. And we, 12 people, continued to climb the ridge. On August 18 and 19 we continued to move towards the top. At eight o’clock in the evening on August 19, we stopped for the fifth night on the ridge, the altitude was approximately 6700 - 6800 m.”
 List of assault participants From the expedition archive |
 Task No. 1 From the expedition archive |
RESCUE WORKS
Traces of Usenov Ural at 19-00 o'clock. On August 23, they were noticed by a member of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee of Physical Culture and Sports, Comrade Naryshkin. The group of A.A. Semchenko informed them about this. Arrived at the camp 4700 m. on the orders of the head of the Kazakh expedition, Comrade Kolokolnikov. With the task of going up to establish contact with V.P. Shipilov’s group. Mountaineers Shevchenko N.G., who set off on skis on the morning of August 24 and Menyailov P.M. They extracted Usenov U. from the crack, who reported the above events with the assault group of Comrade Shipilov. Further rescue and search operations were carried out by the combined forces of two expeditions until August 28 under the joint leadership of the heads of the two expeditions, and later, due to the illness of Comrade Kolokolnikov, under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Comrade V.I. Racek, appointed head of rescue operations by order of the head. Department of Mountaineering and Tourism of the All-Union Committee Comrade B.A. Upenek On August 25, after transporting Comrade Usenov, in satisfactory weather, A.A. Semchenko’s group, reinforced by members of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee, again headed to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier. On the morning of August 26, the climber Menyailov, who was advancing on skis, discovered a footprint in the area of the upper icefall of the Zvezdochka glacier, and soon the corpse of a member of the Kazakh expedition assault group, Comrade A.F. Goncharuk, who died, as was later established by a medical examination, from exhaustion and hypothermia. Leaving a corpse on the glacier, on August 26, the group of Semchenko A.A. reached the camp at 5100 m under the pass. The next day, she was joined by a group of master of sports V.N. Naryshkin, 4 people, with a radio station. In conditions of deteriorating weather, intermittent snowfalls on August 27, 28, 29 and 30, the combined group did not attempt to climb the Chon-Toren pass and the eastern ridge, fearing avalanches. August 31 group Semchenko A.A. – Naryshkina V.N., by order of Comrade Racek, they were recalled down for rest. The assault group of the Uzbek expedition was recalled down the northern edge of Pobeda Peak on August 25 and descended to the expedition base camp on August 26. From its composition, a rescue squad was organized on August 27. The leader of the team of 8 people was the master of sports Nagela E.I. . They were given the task of following the ascent route of V.P. Shipilov’s group. The detachment arrived at the camp at 4700 m on the same day. Its further advance up to the camp at 5100 m was extremely slow and ended on September 1. Despite the fact that the auxiliary groups of climbers under the leadership of Comrade. Snegireva N.A. proved in these same days the possibility of completing this path in a much shorter time. Detachment Nagel E.I. On September 1, I walked lightly to the foot of the Chon-Toren pass and, having stated the impossibility of further advancement due to the danger of avalanches, returned to the tents, and on September 2 of this year. the base camp was withdrawn. On August 31, a combined rescue team formed in mountaineering camps near Almaty arrived at the expedition’s base camp, 4200 m. On September 1, a group of climbers from this detachment, consisting of 8 people, under the leadership of the master of sports Shumikhin, took part in transporting Goncharuk’s corpse. On September 2, she reached camp 5100 m, and the next day, with 4 people, she went to the Chon-Toren pass and on the same day, having found no traces of members of Shipilov’s assault detachment, returned to camp 5100 m. On September 5, she arrived at camp 5100 m. rescue team of participants of the Pamir expedition of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. The next day, accompanied by an auxiliary group, the rescue squad climbed to the Chon-Toren pass and spent the night there. On September 7, climbers of the Pamir expedition of the All-Russian Central Council of Trade Unions, under the leadership of Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K., began climbing the Eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak. As a result, it was found out. September 4 - at 17-35 p.m. the detachment left the camp 4200m. on the Zvezdochka glacier as part of groups of t.t. SNEGIREV, UGAROV, and KUZMINA. September 5. All groups left the camp at 4500m. at 9-45 o'clock consisting of 24 people. At 13-00 o'clock On the glacier we met a group of Comrade. SHUMIKHIN, going down, motivating the descent by the fatigue and ill health of the participants. He ordered the three most unwell comrades to go down with Comrade Comrade. NOZDRYUKHIN and FREIFELD, the rest 5 people. return with us to the pass. To the camp at an altitude of 5100m. We arrived at the Zvezdochka glacier circus at 5-3 p.m. Group comrade SNEGEREVA, leaving the groceries at 5:45 p.m. went down. The snowfall began at 15-00, intensified at 18-00, and stopped at 22-23. 6 September. From camp 5100 m at 11-30 am. An assault search group of 7 people came out, accompanied by 3 people gr. UGAROV and 3 people from SHUMIKHIN’s group. All along the way to the pass there was deep, waist-deep, fresh snow. There are no signs of avalanche danger. 50 m before the exit to the pass and on the pass itself there was a weathered crust. Temperature at 15-00 o'clock -7C, temperature at the pass at 19-00 o'clock -15C. On the approach to the pass and, especially on the pass itself, a constant strong westerly wind blows snow. The height of the Chon-Toren pass is 5550 m. We climbed the pass at 17-45 hours. The accompanying groups of 6 people, leaving food and taking the boots of the assault group, began their descent from the pass at 18-00. September 7. We left the lane. Chon-Toren at 11-15. There is a strong wind on the ridge, frost -13C. The eastern ridge is very steep, up to 55 degrees in places. The snow condition is uneven - from dense icy crust to deep coarse-grained snow. We walked on crampons. Along the entire route there are traces of SHIPILOV's group, tin cans, pieces of paper, etc. At an altitude of 5800 m, traces of a bivouac were found - a platform for 2 tents, and a little higher there were two more sites for one tent each. At an altitude of 6000 m, on a steep drop in the ridge, a broken pin of an ice ax was discovered. Attempts to discover the corpse of Comrade. SUSLOVA in the camp area 5800m. did not yield any results, and searches on the rocks above the camp at 5800m also did not yield results. At an altitude of 6000 m the weather deteriorated sharply and a snowstorm began. We stopped for the night at black rocks at an altitude of 6150 m. There was always a very strong wind and snowstorm. Temperature - 18C. At an altitude of 5950 m, traces of descent were found leading to a cliff, a snow dump, onto the V. Chon-Toren glacier. 8 September. We left the bivouac at 6150 m at 11:30 am. Blizzard, temperature -13C. Having risen to 30 m, we found the 2nd bivouac of SHIPILOV’s group - 3 sites, on one of which there was a completely collapsed tent full of various things and products, including: binoculars, down mittens, socks, cats, and a wide variety of products, including chocolate . Probing the snow around the sites yielded nothing. Having climbed the flat part of the ridge, at an altitude of 6250 m they discovered the corpse of a frozen man, whom they could not identify. The man was lying with his face buried in the snow. There were traces of abrasions and previous frostbite on the hands on the face. He was dressed in a storm suit, a down jacket and shackletons. Down pants were lying 50 m above. Another 100 meters higher, along the way, there were broken bottles of medicine and a pencil lying around. Having risen further, to an altitude of 6600 m, they discovered a second corpse, which they also could not identify. The man was lying in the area of the 3rd bivouac gr. SHIPILOV in a pose indicating that he either went to bed or wanted to hide from the bad weather in this way. An ice ax was stuck near him. He was wearing a down and storm suit, shackletons, and glasses. Traces of abrasions and frostbite were found on the face, and hands dressed in fur mittens were also frostbitten. A bowl and food remains were found in the bivouac area. Having risen to an altitude of 6700 m, approximately 50 m below the exit to the summit ridge, we discovered the last 4th camp of SHIPILOV’s group. The camp consists of 2 sites on which there are two tents torn to shreds. Various things are scattered on the sites, including down suits, ice axes, shackletons, crampons, and a large number of different products. A large niche was dug near the upper tent, in which many things and products were found. Attempts to discover a cave in the rocks or near the rocks, about which USENOV allegedly testified, did not yield any results, and in general it would be difficult to dig a cave in these rocks. About 20 meters below the lower tent, on an ice ax, a rope of double length is attached, which descends along the rocks and ends in an icy couloir leading to the faults of the north-western wall of the ridge. At the end of the rope is a backpack. Traces of descent onto a snow plateau were also discovered. To the east of the ridge, the Chinese wall, they began at an altitude of 6600 m. Immediately after moving away from the ridge, these traces are lost. It was not possible to find any other traces of SHIPILOV’s group being here, as well as the corpses of the remaining participants. Due to the complexity of the ridge and the extremely difficult weather conditions in which the search team had to work, lowering the two discovered corpses down could certainly lead to accidents with the rescue team and, in any case, to inevitable frostbite. Considering the above, I decided to bury the found climbers on the ridge, which was done at an altitude of 6250 and 6600 m. Photos and films of corpses, burial sites, bivouacs, etc. were taken. Having completed the search work in the bivouac area at an altitude of 6700 m at 19-30 p.m. group at 22-30 p.m. descended to a height of 6250m, where I spent the night. 9th of September. The descent from a height of 6250 m began at 11-30. On the way to an altitude of 6100 m, the ridge and slopes going to the east, China, were additionally carefully examined in order to discover the corpse of Comrade. Suslov, however, inspection of the slopes did not yield any results. At 17:00 the group descended to the Chon-Toren pass and at 20:00 to the camp at 5100 m. During the descent there was a snowstorm and hurricane-force winds blew along the entire ridge. 10 September. Together with auxiliary groups, the camp at 5100 m was removed and along the way the camp at 4500 m and all search parties were removed by 17-30 hours. We descended to the camp at 4200 m on the Zvezdochka glacier.- Day 1 - 700 m.
- Day 2 - 480 m.
- Day 3 - 400 m.
- 4th day - 100 m.
This is evidenced by the traces found in this place and ending at the fault. V/ corpse of comrade SUSLOV, according to USENOV, who died after an erroneous descent to the east from the ridge and a return ascent to a height of 6200 m, may be located on the eastern slopes of the ridge. 5. Despite the presence in the area of the Zvezdochka glacier of a large number of qualified climbers, the Turk.VO expedition, it is necessary to note a significant delay in the deployment of active search work in the area of the accident. The work essentially began only with the arrival of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions detachment at the Zvezdochka glacier, that is, after 11 days after receiving the first information about the disaster. Timely entry of search groups to the ridge could have saved the lives of some of the dead members of the group. SHIPILOVA. The references to bad weather and avalanche danger in this case cannot be considered satisfactory. Moving along the ridge on September 7-8. Search group of comrade KUZMIN K.K. discovered the location of all the camps of the assault group of V.P. Shipilov. The group found tents with food and belongings in the auxiliary camp at an altitude of 6130 m and tents of the 4th camp at an altitude of 6700 m, the corpses of climbers V.G. Ankudimov - altitude 6250 m and P.F. Cherepanova. - altitude 6600 m, died while trying to descend. Traces indicating attempts by other participants in the assault to descend towards the northern wall of the eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak and to the upper snow fields of the Chon-Toren glacier. Burying the corpses of Ankudimov V.G. and Cherepanova P.F. on the ridge. Having carried out an examination, photography and filming of the camp sites. Group Kuzmin K.K. On September 9, she descended to the camp at 5100 m. And on September 10, all rescue and search teams concentrated in the base camp of the expedition at an altitude of 4200 m. On the same day, by the decision of the operational group to manage rescue operations related to the search for the group of V.P. Shipilov. and further search work was stopped. Based on the testimony of climber Usenov U., materials presented by rescue and search teams, the death of climbers participating in the assault group of the expedition of the Kazakh Republican Committee, which included: Shipilov V.P., Aleksandrov K.Ya., Solodovnikov I.G., was established. , Goncharuk A.F., Ankudimov V.G., Akishev Kh.A., Sigitov B.I., Cherepanov P.F., Suslov A.D., Ryspaev E.M. and Selidzhanov R.M. Of them: The body of Goncharuk A.F. discovered in the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier on August 26. Transported and buried in Alma-Ata.
Body of Ankudimov V.G. discovered on the Eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak at an altitude of 6250 m and buried on the spot.
The body of Cherepanov P.F. discovered on the Eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak at an altitude of 6600 m and buried on the spot.
The body of A.D. Suslov, according to U. Usenov’s testimony, is located on the southern slope of the Eastern ridge near camp 6180 m. The location of the bodies of the remaining seven dead expedition members could not be determined. The commission to investigate the accident, composed of honored masters, chaired by Beletsky E.A. She recognized the progress of the rescue work as insufficiently organized, writing down the following in her conclusions: The leaders of the rescue and search work, t.t. Ratsek V.I., Yurasov L.B., heads of rescue teams and groups Semchenko A.A. and Nagel E.I. from the moment of discovering Usenov U. and receiving information from him about the emergency situation of V.P. Shipilov’s group. until September 3, work was carried out at an unacceptably slow pace. At the same time, sufficient persistence was not demonstrated in achieving the set goals. The danger of avalanches from the slopes of the Ak-Tau peak and the Chon-Toren pass, supposedly excluding the possibility of movement of rescue teams, was overestimated. At the same time, the climbers who were part of the teams had sufficient technical and tactical training and material support to move along the relatively simple profiles of the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier and reach the Chon-Toren pass in conditions of rescue operations. Comrade Ratsek V.I. did not show sufficient persistence during the first period of search work from August 25 to September 3 - 1955, when organizing search groups to go to the Chon-Toren pass and higher could have saved the lives of a number of comrades. Comrade Yurasov L.V. as the head of the rescue squad of the expedition of the Uzbek Committee and a member of the Presidium of the All-Union section, knowing about the Committee’s instructions about the order of climbing Pobeda Peak, he did not take measures to prevent this violation by climbers of Uzbekistan, and did not show activity in search and rescue operations. Comrade Semchenko A.A. violated the order of the head of the expedition by leaving the Zvezdochka-2 camp - 5100 m, which was planned as an observation point. Comrade Nagel E.I., who had at his disposal a detachment of the most qualified climbers, carried out rescue work unacceptably slowly, overestimating the avalanche danger, and incorrectly informed the management of rescue work about the impossibility of reaching the Chon-Toren pass. With the cessation of search and rescue operations, the remaining members of the expedition of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists began evacuating the expedition from the area of the Zvezdochka glacier to Almaty, where they arrived. 4. CONCLUSIONS ON THE ORGANIZATION AND WORK OF THE EXPEDITION. On organizing an expedition to Pobeda Peak. Workers of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists of the Kazakh SSR, headed by its boss, A.F. Tufan. Despite the many difficulties that faced them and were beyond their control. Exceeding their strengths and capabilities. They did a lot of work and in a short time created the material base of the expedition such that it allowed the inspection and control commissions to make fair conclusions that the expedition was organized as one of the best in the entire practice of sports expeditions of the USSR in terms of equipment, food, and pack transport. However, despite all the efforts of A.F. Tufan, it was not possible to carry out some issues outlined in the plans and calculations of the expedition. The high-altitude equipment ordered in Moscow through Fizkultsportsnab, such as sleeping bags and down suits, despite their high cost, were made using second-rate eider down. These things did not look good, and in low temperatures they turned out to be permeable to the cold. Tents and storm suits were not impregnated to protect them from water. Lack of conscientiousness in fulfilling the special order on the part of Fizkultsportsnab seriously increased the transfer of difficulties in conditions of sharp climatic fluctuations. Planned aerial reconnaissance of the route for the assault on Pobeda Peak from the air. Due to the lack of aircraft with a ceiling above 8000 m in the Kazakh SSR, it was also not carried out. This significantly weakened the ability to correctly determine the assault route and especially its details. An extremely serious flaw in organizing the expedition was the issue of communication. The lack of small-sized radio stations made in the USSR forced the organizers of the expedition to use the Klein-Fu-2 stations; as we now know, from the conclusions of the commission, stations of this type do not justify themselves. The lack of redundant means of communication increased the difficulty of the expedition's work in the mountains. A particularly unfinished issue in organizing the expedition should be noted about the transportation of the expedition by vehicles. Sending the expedition in 3 echelons due to the lack of a sufficient number of vehicles did not justify itself, and moreover, it led to delays and disruption of the expedition’s work schedule. Pointing out the above shortcomings in organizing the expedition, one cannot fail to note the good experience in organizing several expeditions conducted by the club; a relatively small team of workers of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists managed to accumulate experience and it can be said that in the future this experience, of course, will find its practical use application. Due to the catastrophic death of the group of Master of Sports V. Shipilov, the planned work of the expedition in the mountains was incomplete and not fully completed. The work of the expedition continued to proceed in the direction of further study of the Central Tien Shan and training of new cadres of high-altitude climbers. It took place in 1955 under difficult conditions. A cargo weighing 8 tons, with 28 people and 30 horses, was successfully transferred to strong points with enormous efforts from the entire crew. During the preparatory move, scientific research work was also carried out, thus, with the exception of completing the ascent to Pobeda Peak, the expedition completed the assigned work. All conclusions characterizing the work of the expedition are built around the accident. Analysis of the accident with the group of master of sports V. Shipilov, by studying all the facts of the expedition’s work in the mountains, made it possible to approximately explain the cause of death. This is reflected in the conclusion of the commission investigating the disaster with the assault group of the Kazakhstan expedition, which primarily notes the reason that lies in the group itself. The conclusion states: 1. The physical condition of the members of V. Shipilov’s group and its provision of equipment and food at the time the weather worsened was such that, with the correct actions of its leader’s group, there was every opportunity to prevent a disaster and save the lives of the ascent participants. The group could, taking refuge in tents or snow caves, wait out the storm and make a descent on their own or with the help of rescue teams. Proof of this possibility is the example of the assault group of the Turk.VO expedition, which successfully survived the same bad weather. 2. The presence of two expeditions that had the task of completing the ascent to Pobeda Peak created unacceptable competition and the development of sports excitement in the group. 3. The leader of the assault group, Master of Sports V. Shipilov, failed to cope with his duties in a difficult situation and made a number of serious mistakes, which led to the disunited action of the group. 4. Violation of the tactical plan of the assault by the leadership of the expedition also led to the physical weakening of the group, which reduced the group’s resistance during bad weather. However, the lack of facts about the actual action of the group at an altitude of 6.700 after the departure of U. Usenov does not make it possible to finally and affirmatively find the correct conclusions about the death of V. Shipilov’s group. However, all previous issues related to the disaster of the assault group should be carefully studied when organizing expeditions to the Central Tien Shan. Despite the fact that the expedition of the Kazakh Committee for Physical Culture and Sports ended in disaster in the sports part of its work, its experience and its work provide enormous material for reviewing the issues of high-altitude ascents in the USSR and makes a huge contribution to the most difficult sports events such as high-altitude mountaineering. Head of the expedition
Honored Master of Sports: / signature / /E. Kolokolnikov /
1956
On political and educational work among participants in the high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak /July-September 1955/
The expedition began its work on July 1, 1955. 28 people took part in its work. Of these, there were 6 members of the CPSU, 8 members of the Komsomol. Even before leaving the mountains. Party and Komsomol groups were organized in Alma-Ata. Comrade ALEXANDROV was elected party organizer and Comrade AKISHEV as Komsomol organizer. The expedition participants took 2-4 books with them to the expedition area, including political and fiction. The Komsomol Central Committee supplied the expedition with sets of the Ogonyok and Crocodile magazines for the second half of 1954 and the first half of 1955. The expedition took a volleyball with a net, chess and the necessary materials for publishing wall newspapers. Us before leaving the mountains. Alma-Ata, a plan for mass political work was drawn up, which was approved at a meeting of the party group. This plan has been largely completed. The main difficulty for its complete implementation was that the expedition members stayed and moved together for only 9 days. The expedition left the city of Alma-Ata in three echelons on July 5, 6 and 15, and only on July 29 did they all concentrate together on the “Green” camp. We were in the “Green” camp on July 30 and 31, and from August 1 to 4, everyone moved together along the Inylchek glacier to the foot of Pobeda Peak. During the expedition, 4 party meetings were held, at which the following were discussed: “Plan of mass political work”, “Results of the first stage of the expedition”, “On the organization of the assault on Pobeda Peak”, etc. Similar issues after party meetings were discussed at general meetings . A number of conversations were held. For example: “Results of the July plenum of the Central Committee of the CPSU”, “On the conquest of Mount Everest”, “How the assault on the peak of Khan Tengri was organized in 1954” and others. Political information was held once every 2-3 days. We took material for political information on the radio via walkie-talkies. In the Zeleny camp, on July 31, the first issue of the combat leaflet was issued. Chess and volleyball games and chess competitions were held. Whenever possible, especially in the evening, collective singing of songs was organized. The singing of songs was organized by Comrades Usenov, Ryspaev, Akishev and Shipilov. Before the assault began, all members of the expedition read the books they took with them. After this, books were exchanged, some books changed hands. The expedition members eagerly read and looked through the magazines “Ogonyok” and “Crocodile”. Individual facts of indiscipline were considered by the head of the expedition, where the deputy was obligatorily present. politician, party organizer, and sometimes Komsomol organizer. For example, on July 31, in the “Green” camp, they had an argument and almost fought. Suslov and Ryspaev. This case was examined by us in their presence. On the eve of departure from the mountains. Alma-Ata had a bad attitude towards his wife on the part of Sigitov. Having learned this, on June 30 we had a serious conversation with Comrade Sigitov and he promised that after his arrival from the expedition he would resolve this issue, and issue a policy in her name, and she would receive his salary. We have repeatedly talked with Comrade Solodovnikov about the fact that he often uses foul language. We made comments immediately regarding individual cases of indiscipline. Before any group left somewhere, we talked with the leader and the whole group. After returning, they analyzed how they completed the task. We prompted some comrades to send radiograms home. Such radiograms were given by t.t. Semchenko, Sigitov, Zabozlaev. Before the assault, we collected the text of radiograms from everyone that they would like to transmit and transmitted the radiograms to Alma-Ata. Before the assault, the moral and political state of the assault group was excellent. All participants had a great desire to storm and climb Pobeda Peak. Relations between the participants were good. The discipline was positive, all tasks and assignments were carried out well and willingly. In general, the group was mentally prepared for the assault. The group is disciplined, efficient, ideologically consistent. There were no disagreements between the participants, except for the climbing tactics. On this issue, all participants, except Comrade Grudzinsky and Suslov, supported the opinion of Comrade T. Kolokolnikov and Shipilov. All participants were against unification with the expedition of the Turk.VO and the Uzbek Committee. They believed and were confident that it would be better and safer for the group to make the ascent with their own members. Based on the observations I made before the start of the assault, I can characterize individual members of the assault group as follows: 1.
Shipilov V.I. - a good climber, persistent, organizer, and enjoyed authority as the leader of the assault. His shortcomings were: he had elements of careerism and arrogance. Sometimes he commanded when he needed to convince. Comrade Suslov did not like him personally. 2.
Alexandrov K.Ya. - hardworking, resilient, incorruptible, modest and careful in making decisions. 3.
Cherepanov P.F. - a disciplined, sensible person, but among his comrades he was reserved. 4.
Solodovnikov I.G. - physically strong, resilient, cheerful, sociable person, he expressed his opinions directly and immediately. He loved to use foul language. 5.
Sigitov B.N. - hardy, disciplined, had organizational skills. In dealing with people he is harsh and quick-tempered. He had elements of alarmism and sometimes exaggerated difficulties. 6.
Goncharuk A.F. - a modest, honest, very conscientious comrade. He was a great optimist at work. 7.
Ankudimov V.G. is a modest, sympathetic and dutiful comrade. 8.
Akishev H.A. - a disciplined, responsive comrade. He loved public works and performed them with great willingness. He was modest, considered himself the most inexperienced and physically weak of all the participants. He was physically really weak. 9.
Suslov A.D. - politically literate, well acquainted with the history of many ascents. He allowed elements of arrogance, treated his comrades with disdain, and believed that he himself knew better than anyone. In disputes, on almost all issues, he believed that his own opinions were the only correct ones. 10.
Selidzhanov R.M. is a modest, very cultured comrade. Was closed. He did not express an opinion on the work of the expedition. 11.
Ryspaev E.M. - a very cheerful friend. He joked a lot. He loved to tease someone, pick them up. Sometimes I was lazy. 12.
Menyailov N.P. - a modest, very efficient, hardworking comrade. 13.
Semchenko A.A. - a hardy, careful comrade. Likes to command, and is rude when dealing with people as a senior. 14.
Torodin R.M. - physically strong, sociable friend, but sometimes cowardly, lazy, where possible he “sucks”. 15.
Shevchenko N.G. - physically weak, hardworking, disciplined, but cowardly comrade. 16.
Usenov U. is a hardy, physically strong, sympathetic comrade. Very hot, doesn’t understand a friendly joke. Deputy Chief
expeditions on the political side: /signature/ /O. Batyrbekov/ 1956.
on medical support for the high-altitude expedition of the club of climbers and tourists of the Kazakh SSR to climb Pobeda Peak in 1955.
Monitoring the condition of the majority of the expedition members began during the autumn-winter training period of 1954-1955. This observation was carried out by the medical and physical education center and by me personally, as the expedition doctor. I have been familiar with the physical condition and health of many of the expedition participants for a number of years. During the period of final formation of the assault group and final training, I, fulfilling the assignment of the Ministry of Health of the Kazakh SSR, was on a business trip, from which I returned on July 13, 1955, i.e. the day before the third echelon of the expedition left Almaty. Insufficient attention to the formation and preparation of the expedition on the part of the leading organizations also affected this front. I, as an expedition doctor, could not take part in a detailed study of the health status of each member of the expedition and participate in the selection of members of the assault group, which was necessary, because It was me who ultimately decided on the issue of allowing each member of the assault group to climb Pobeda Peak. Each high-altitude expedition must be accompanied by extensive research work. The issues of human acclimatization in high altitude conditions have not yet found their final solution. In view of this, the initial plan provided for the inclusion of a group of medical researchers in the expedition to conduct a series of physiological studies and observations of the state of the human body in high altitude conditions. Changes in the estimate deprived us of the opportunity to conduct full-fledged scientific research work also because the expedition was not equipped with the minimum equipment for scientific work. This, in our opinion, is also a consequence of the general attitude of the governing organizations of the republic towards the expedition. Both of these shortcomings significantly worsened the conditions for medical monitoring of health, fitness, etc. and reduced medical control to elementary and standard rules and techniques. Medical monitoring of the health and fitness of members of the assault group. For the first time, we were able to get acquainted with the medical indicators of the health status and fitness of all members of the expedition after the entire expedition concentrated in the Green Glade camp. This initial medical examination of all members of the assault group took 2 days: July 30 and 31. During this medical examination, no pathological abnormalities in the body were identified among the members of the assault group. Blood pressure before exercise and in the dynamics of functional tests, Kotov-Demina test, Clicquot and Orthostatic tests, remained within normal limits in all subjects. The performance of all members of the assault group was good. The speed of blood flow fluctuated among the subjects within the limits of average, normal figures. The second medical examination was carried out on August 13 before the group left for the assault. In the interval between the first and second medical examinations, the members of the expedition performed certain work at various altitudes from 3500 m to 5000 m above sea level and already had sufficient so-called. active acclimatization. This repeated medical examination revealed the following: all members of the assault group, with the exception of Semchenko, Shevchenko, Torodin and Menyailov, had good indicators of functional tests, blood pressure, blood pressure dynamics during the period of exercise, etc. Blood pressure in M.S. Semchenko was in the range of 150-170 mm Hg - correspondence before and after the load. Insufficiently good performance of functional tests and a state of dynamic changes in blood pressure were noted in Torodin, Shevchenko, and Menyailov. The second group of subjects was divided into individuals who had relatively good and excellent performance in all studies. The latter was obtained from the following climbers: Shipilov, Alexandrov, Cherepanov, Sigitov, Ryspaev, Usenov, Selidzhanov, Goncharuk, Suslov. In connection with the change in assault tactics and the division of the group into auxiliary and assault, the opportunity emerged to use the entire group of climbers in preparation for the ascent. To the head of the expedition, z.m.s. Kolokolnikov and the head of the assault group, M.S. Shipilov was informed of the results of the medical examination, indicating that the first group - Semchenko, Menyailov, Torodin, Shevchenko - should be used only up to a height of 6500-6600 m, and in the formation of the assault group, be guided by the results of the medical examination and personal observation of the behavior of individual climbers. Shipilov's first order was carried out, Semchenko and others returned from an altitude of 6500 m. Medical and preventive work. The expedition was well provided with medicines and trauma equipment. Almost any disease, including massive traumatic injuries, could be successfully treated before hospitalization. During the period of the expedition before the assault, its members did not have any serious illnesses. Minor injuries did not require hospitalization or long-term treatment. The head of the expedition, Z.M.S. Kolokolnikov, during the period of reconnaissance work, a mildly expressed cardiovascular insufficiency was revealed, although it was easily resolved under the influence of ordinary treatment measures. After the disaster with the assault group, Usenov, who had frostbite of the feet and hands of the second degree and general chills, needed persistent treatment. A quick evacuation down to the local hospital, and then to the city, with continuous and persistent treatment during the evacuation period, made it possible to preserve his health and limit the levels of amputation that later required to the phalanges of his right hand. Under the influence of mental trauma, the condition of the cardiovascular system of z.m.s. sharply deteriorated. Kolokolnikova. This required his immediate evacuation down to the local hospital in the village of Moydaadyr, and then to the city of Przhevalsk. Before leaving for the assault, the group received the necessary medications and instructions for their use. Medicines were given to the commander of the assault, the commanders of the tents and individually to each climber. Everyone was advised on the rules of behavior in case of possible illnesses. Expedition doctor
Candidate of Medical Sciences: /signature/ / S. Zabozlaev /
1956 Copy.
Kazakh SSR Club of climbers and tourists.
Comrade Tufan A.F.
Committee on Physical Culture and Sports
under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
Chairmen
EXPRESSION from the order of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
№ 480.
dated July 6, 1955
about conducting an expedition to Pobeda Peak
In accordance with the Resolution of the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR No. 103 dated February 18 of this year, the Republican calendar plan of sports events for 1955, the decision of the All-Union Mountaineering Section and the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the act of checking the readiness of the expedition ,
ORDERS:
Paragraph I In the period from July 5 to September 25, 1955, conduct a high-altitude sports and research expedition to the Central Tien Shan from climbing Pobeda Peak - 7439 m. Paragraph 2
The composition of the expedition to Pobeda Peak should be approved as follows:
1
. Kolokolnikov Evgeniy Mikhailovich - head of the expedition /ZMS/ 2
. Batyrbekov Orazai Batyrbekovich - deputy. beginning exp. p/hour./II category/ 3
. Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich - assault commander. group ./M.S./ 4
. Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich - deputy. beginning storm. group /M.S./ 5
. Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich - participant /M.S./ 6
. Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich -“- -“- 7
. Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich - participant /I category/ 8
. Sigitov Boris Ivanovich -“- -“- 9
. Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich -“- -“- 10
.Usenov Uralkhan -“- -“- 11
. Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich -“- -“- 12
. Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich -“- -“- 13
. Akishev Khusain Akishevich -“- -“- 14
. Shevchenko Nikolay Grigorievich -“- -“- 15
. Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich -“- -“- 16
. Ryspaev Ergaly Mustafanovich -“- -“- 17
. Selidzhanov Rostislav Mambetovich -“- -“- 18
. Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich -“- -“- 19
. Zabozlaev Sergey Sergeevich expedition doctor, Ph.D. sciences 20
.Grudzinsky Mikhail Eduardovich research worker. parts 21
. Opilko Grigory Fedorovich Head. housekeeper expeditions 22
. Tkachev Ivan Fedorovich senior groom 23
. Gorokhov Gennady Mikhailovich groom 24
. Oblov Alexey Stepanovich cook 25
. Mulendson Rudolf Markovich Sr. cameraman 26
. Goncharenko Gennady Vasilievich cameraman 27
. Elagin Alexey Alexandrovich senior radio operator 28
. Sobolev Fedor Alekseevich radio operator Paragraph 3 To the head of the ZMS expedition, Comrade E.M. Kolokolnikov. When conducting an expedition, strictly follow the guidelines on mountaineering of the All-Union Committee on Physical Culture and Sports and the instructions of the Authorized Person of the All-Communist Physical Culture Committee for the Kazakh high-mountainous region. In connection with the holding of 2 parallel expeditions to Pobeda Peak, the order of ascent should be established in accordance with the telegraphic instructions of the All-Union Committee. Paragraph 4 To the head of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists, Comrade A.F. Tufan. A/ provide the expedition with everything necessary for its successful work in the mountains. b/ maintain regular radio communications during the expedition. Paragraph 5 In order to ensure additional safety measures, when conducting an expedition to Pobeda Peak, ask the Authorized Person of the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, Comrade A. Gvalia, to create a joint rescue group from climbers from camps located in the Trans-Ili Ala-Tau for the period of the expedition. Paragraph 6 To review the materials of sports groups climbing in the area of the expedition during the preparatory period, approve a route commission consisting of: 1.
Kolokolnikov E.M. - prev. commissions /w.m.s./ 2.
Grudzinsky M.E. - deputy prev /I category/ 3.
Shipilov V.P - member of the commission /m.s./ 4.
Alexandrov K.Ya. - -“- /m.s./ 5.
Cherepanov P.F. - -“- /m.s./ 6.
Semchenko A.A. - -“- /m.s./ 7.
Batyrbekov O.B. - -“- /II category/ Grant the said commission the right to consider materials in the 5”B” category of difficulty. Paragraph 7 I remind the leadership of the expedition to Pobeda Peak and all participants of their great responsibility for conducting the expedition at a high sports and technical level and unconditionally fulfilling the tasks assigned to the expedition. Paragraph 8 This order must be announced to all expedition personnel.
Chairman of the Committee
in physical education and sports
under the Council of Ministers of Kazakh. SSR: /signature/ /A. Artykov/
M.P. participants of a high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak. No. Last name, first name Year of birth. Home address Place of work and position National Par-tiin. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1
. Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich 1929 Alma-Ata, 5th line No. 72. Republic Alpine Club Assault Commander Russian. Komsomol 2
. Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich 1925 Alma-Ata-1, Papanin St. No. 179 Republican. clubalpin. Chuvash Komsomol instructor 3
. Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich 1929 Alma-Ata-1, st. Gabdullina No. 84 VKM turner Russian. Komsomol 4
. Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich 1928 Alma-Ata-1, Suvorov street No. 76 VCh-4 boilermaker Russian. Member of the CPSU 5
. Akishev Khusain Akishevich 1933 Alma-Ata-2, st. Vinogradova No. 80 student of Kazakh State University Kazakh Komsomol 6
. Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich 1922 Alma-Ata, st. Ilyich No. 49 teacher of the department of physical education. KazMI rus. b/p 7
. Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich 1921 Alma-Ata Republican Alpine Club. Russian instructor b/p 8
. Sigitov Boris Ivanovich 1927 Alma-Ata st. Pushkin No. 7 Rep. club of the Alps. Russian instructor b/p 9
. Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich 1925 Alma-Ata, 9th line No. 12 quarter 8 Z-d Kirov, workshop No. 5, Russian turner. b/p 10
. Usenov Ural 1929 Alma-Ata, st. Krasina No. 57 Republic. Alpine Club Kazakh b/p 11
. Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich 1917 Alma-Ata, Mechnikov street No. 120, apt. 14 Committee FC and joint venture under the Council of Min. KazSSR, state trainer Russian. b/p 12
. Shevchenko Nikolay Grigorievich 1926 Alma-Ata, Chekhov str. No. 7, apt. 3 Alma-Ata-1, VCh-4, Russian electric welder. b/p 13
. Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich 1923 VOKS, factory con. insp.gr. rus. Cand. CPSU 14
. Ryspaev Ergaly Mustafanovich 1931 Moscow, Lefortovo Val, No. 7-a, building 8 Student MEPhI Kazakh Komsomol 15
. Selidzhanov Rostislav Mambetovich 1930 Moscow, Lefotovo shaft No. 7, building 1-133 Moscow, MTZ engineer Russian. Komsomol 16
. Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich 1927 Stalinsk, Kemerovo region. Ovrazhnaya 26 Instructor of the “Metallurg” mountain camp in Talgar. rus. b/p Note:****VKM - Railway car-wheel workshops Alma-Ata-1 station
****VCh-4 – apparently a military unit
****VOX - (possibly) All-Union Society for Cultural Relations with Foreign Countries (why z-d?).
ORDER
CHAIRMAN OF THE COMMITTEE ON PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND SPORTS
AT THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR.
December 14, 1955. No. 459.
ABOUT THE EXPEDITION OF CLIMBERS TO POBEDA PEAK
In August 1955, while climbing Pobeda Peak, an accident occurred with a group of mountaineering expedition organized by the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR. As a result of organized search and rescue operations and an inspection by a special commission appointed by the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR. The chairman of the commission is Honored Master of Sports Comrade E.A. Beletsky. The death of 11 climbers - members of the expedition's assault group - was established. Shipilov V.P., Ankudimov V.G., Akishev Kh.A., Sigitov B.I., Cherepanov P.F., Suslov A.D., Ryspaev E.M. and Selidzhanov R.M. One of the main reasons for the death of the assault group is the fact that, having encountered difficult conditions, worsening weather, blizzards and heavy snowfall, the members of the assault group became confused, acted disunitedly, and did not show themselves as a single, cohesive team. The attempted descent was unorganized. Head of the assault Comrade V.P. Shipilov failed to organize a group to fight the elements. A gross mistake by the head of the group, Comrade V.P. Shipilov. was that, having lost contact with base camp, he continued to move upward. With the correct actions of the group and its leader, when the weather worsened, it was possible to prevent a disaster by sheltering from the weather in tents or snow caves. The approved tactical plan for climbing Pobeda Peak by the leadership of the expedition, the head of the expedition, Honored Master of Sports, Comrade E.M. Kolokolnikov, was rejected and replaced by the tactics of storming the peak of the “descent”, which, as an analysis of the ascent shows, led to premature fatigue of the climbers and had a negative impact on their the ability to withstand bad weather and the ability to withstand difficult climbing conditions. Due to the presence of two expeditions, the Kazakh Committee and the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR established the priority of storming the summit by the Kazakh expedition. However, the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee and the Turkestan Military District grossly violated this instruction by launching an assault on Pobeda Peak the day after the Kazakh expedition left, which created an environment of unhealthy sports competition. Presidium of the All-Union Section, Chairman Honored Master of Sports Comrade K.K. Kuzmin, Mountaineering Department of the Committee Comrade R.G. Shafeev did not take a firm position on the issue of uniting the forces of various expeditions to Pobeda Peak and did not check their decision to strengthen the expedition with experienced high-altitude climbers. Inclusion in the expedition etc. Suslova A.D., Ryspaeva E.M. and Selidzhanova R.M. did not strengthen the composition of the expedition to the extent required. The Kazakh Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, the Organizing Committee of the expedition and the Republican Mountaineering Section took the wrong position, rejecting proposals to unite the forces of several organizations for a joint assault on Pobeda Peak. As a result, the expedition's climbing team was not strong enough to complete the task of climbing this peak. The leader of the auxiliary group is master of sports comrade. Semchenko A.A., having received the task of lowering the slightly ill Menyailov P.P. from the ridge, had to remain under the Chon-Toren pass to organize an observation and communication point. Instead, he voluntarily went to base camp with the entire group. Head of rescue and search operations, Honored Master of Sports Comrade V.I. Ratsek, heads of rescue teams and groups, etc. Semchenko A.A. and Nagel E.I. from the moment they received information about the emergency situation, V.P. Shipilov’s group carried out work at a slow pace. The danger of avalanches from the slopes of the Ak-Tau peak and the Chon-Toren pass, which supposedly excluded the possibility of movement of rescue teams, was overestimated by them. A member of the Presidium of the All-Union Section and a participant in the expedition of the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, Comrade L.V. Yurasov, knowing about the resolution of the Presidium and the instructions of the Committee on the sequence of ascents to Pobeda Peak, did not take measures to prevent the climbers of Uzbekistan from launching an assault prematurely. ORDERS:
1
. The conclusions of the commission of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR, which conducted an investigation into the causes and circumstances of the accident with the expedition group of the Kazakh Republican Committee on Physical Culture and Sports, should be approved /Appendix No. 1/. 2
. To severely reprimand the Chairman of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR, Comrade. Artykov A.E., Chairman of the Expedition Organizing Committee, Deputy. Chairman of the same Committee, Comrade S.S. Gerzhon for failure to provide leadership and lack of control over the actions of the expedition. 3
. Announce a severe reprimand to the head of the expedition, Honored Master of Sports, Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. and prohibit him from further leading mountaineering expeditions for unsatisfactory leadership of the expedition and unauthorized changes in the tactical plan for climbing Pobeda Peak. 4
. To issue a severe reprimand and remove Honored Master of Sports V.I. Ratsek from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section. - head of the expedition of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Uzbek SSR and the Turkestan Military District. By banning him from leading mountaineering expeditions for 3 years for violating the instructions of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section on the order of priority for climbing Pobeda Peak. 5
. Remove Honored Master of Sports Comrade L.V. Yurasov from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section. for failure to take proper measures to prevent violation of the climbing order of the expedition of Uzbek climbers and the Turkestan Military District. 6
. To deprive Comrade A.A. Semchenko of the title of master of sports and instructor qualifications. for violation of the order of the head of the expedition, which resulted in an unauthorized descent to the lower camp, which led to the absence of an auxiliary detachment in the camp closest to the assault group. 7
. Oblige the Department of Mass Sports and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section to hold a scientific and methodological conference on high-altitude ascents in January 1956, at which to determine the main provisions of the organization and tactics of high-altitude ascents of Soviet climbers. To attract organizations and individuals interested in the development of high-altitude mountaineering to participate in the conference. The conference program should be approved /Appendix No. 2/. The conference materials and proposals should be submitted for consideration and approval by the Committee by February 1, 1956. 8
. To oblige the management of Fizkultpromsnab, Comrade K.I. Mass, to develop new models of mountaineering equipment for high-altitude ascents, taking into account foreign experience, during the first quarter of 1956 by the efforts of the Central Laboratory of Scientific Research. 9
. Oblige the Management of educational institutions and the scientific and methodological council of the Committee to include the following topics in the research plan: A/ “Medical indications and contraindications for mountaineering” b/ “The influence of high-mountain conditions, above 6400 m, on the human body, water-salt regime, diet and oxygen use.” 10
. To allow the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR in 1956 to conduct a 60-day training camp on the basis of the ski station for the preparation of junior mountaineering instructors with a contingent of 30 people. 11
. As an exception, allow the Taldy-Kurgan, East Kazakhstan, South Kazakhstan, Dzhambul and Karaganda regional committees to include climbing equipment in the list of personnel property, in accordance with Appendix No. 3. 12
. Oblige the Kazakh, Uzbek, Kyrgyz, Georgian republican committees for physical culture and sports and the Central Committee of the DSO to discuss this order together with the mountaineering activists and develop measures to strengthen educational work among climbers, improve preparatory work for ascents and increase demands on climbing groups. Note: ****CLSI - Central Laboratory of Sports Equipment N. Romanov.
Application number 1.
By order of the Chairman of the Committee on Physical
Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR
dated December 14, 1955 No. 459.
CONCLUSION ON THE CIRCUMSTANCES OF THE DEATH OF A GROUP OF EXPEDITION PARTICIPANTS OF THE COMMITTEE ON PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE KAZAKH SSR AT POBEDA PEAK
The traces of Usenov U. at 19-00 on August 23 were noticed by members of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee, Comrade NARYSHKIN. What they were informed about was the group of SEMCHENKO A.A., which arrived at the camp 4700 m. on the orders of the head of the Kazakh expedition, Comrade E.M. KOLOKOLNIKOV. with the task of going up to establish contact with V.P. SHIPILOV’s group. Climbers N.G. SHEVCHENKO, who set off on skis on the morning of August 24 and MENYAILOV P.M. extracted USENOV U. from the crack, who reported the above events with the assault group of Comrade V.P. SHIPILOV. Further rescue and search operations were carried out by the combined forces of two expeditions until August 28 under the joint leadership of the heads of the two expeditions, and in the future, due to the illness of T. Kolokolnikova E.M., under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Comrade V.I. Racek, appointed head of rescue operations by order of the head of the mountaineering and tourism department of the Committee Comrade Upenek B.A. On August 25, after transporting Comrade USENOV, in satisfactory weather, A.A. Semchenko’s group, reinforced by members of the Uzbek expedition, again headed to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier. On August 26, in the morning, climber P.M. Menyailov, advancing on skis, discovered a footprint in the area of the upper icefall of the Zvezdochka glacier, and soon the corpse of a member of the assault group of the Kazakh expedition, Comrade A.F. GONCHARUK, who died, as was later established by a medical examination, from exhaustion and hypothermia. Leaving a corpse on the glacier, on August 26, Semchenko’s group Note:****CS VSS – Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society
Sports societies:
- "Spartak" - scientists and employees,
- “Dynamo” – employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs (MVD)
- “Burevestnik” – students, teachers
- “Trud”, “Enbek” - workers and employees of industrial enterprises
- “Lokomotiv” – railway employees
- “Harvest” – agricultural workers, etc.
P.S.
In memory of the eleven climbers who died in this expedition, the names of the glacier, pass and peak in the Saryjaz ridge, Central Tien Shan were given. Administratively, this part of the Tien Shan belongs to the Kazakh SSR. The names Eleven Peak 5437 m, Eleven Pass 5300 m, Eleven Glacier were given. When creating this album, I used archival materials taken from personal archives:
- Photos from the archives of Ural Usenov, Viktor Zimin, Mikhail Grudzinsky and Valery Khrishchaty.
- Documents from the archive of Alexander Kolokolnikov (son of Evgeniy Kolokolnikov, the head of the expedition) and the archive of the Urals Usenov. The album contains two reports, a 1955 report and a 1956 report, more complete with analysis, analysis and solutions. From the “shards” lying and stored in different places, I managed to assemble this “mosaic”. In memory of the participants of this tragic expedition. More than one generation of Soviet climbers was brought up on the analysis and analysis of this tragedy. In 1990, when we passed this place of the tragedy, making a traverse of the Pobeda - Khan Tengri peaks. Valery Khrishchaty told and showed where the tents stood in 1955. The USSR national mountaineering team, while traversing the Pobeda - Military Topographers peaks in 1988, cleaned up the site of the tragedy. Valery Khrishchaty himself kept diaries of sporting events in which he personally took part. And he took written documents of this kind very seriously. From the stories of Ural Usenov, he knew that Ergali Ryspaev kept a diary of the expedition. And finding myself at the scene of the tragedy, 33 years later, I wanted to find this diary. He warned all team members of his intentions. And after he found the diary in one of the tents, he gave the go-ahead for cleaning. The USSR national mountaineering team collected all the equipment, clothing, and dishes from the ice at the site of the tragedy and dropped it on the northern wall of the Eastern Pobeda peak, on the territory of the USSR. Work was also done to improve the burials. Burial of Cherepanov P.F. – 6600 m. and Ankudimova V.G. – 6250 m were additionally lined with stones. The body of Suslov A.D. could not be found.
Film about the events:
